73-87chevytrucks.com
73-87 Chevy _ GMC Trucks => Members Rides => Topic started by: junkman. on August 29, 2010, 02:07:09 am
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Ive had 1982 GMC 1500 2WD long bed rebuilt 6.2L diesel & 700R4 straight no rust for eight years and haven't drove it on the street its been no-oped so its time to do something with it.
My plan is to make it a short bed,new paint,lower it 2in. front three or so rear with 265 or 275/70R15 all the way around.
I picked up a 73 GMC shorty for $200.00 no motor & trans the beds in bad shape so I'm going to use the long beds outer skins and shorten them and install them on inside SB walls than swap over the cab & all the parts from the 82 LB to SB frame. it going to be a daily drive here's some pic's
(http://forum.73-87chevytrucks.com/smforum/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=17333.0;attach=13117;image)
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Is the LB rusted out, or dented up bad on the inside? A lot of people shorten beds. I think it would be easier to shorten your pre existing bed the pulling off the skins, and still have to do half the cutting/welding it would take to shorten your current one. Just my thought.
Nice truck! Always good to see a diesel! Sad to see a LB bite the dust. :'(
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I like the look of a SB and the LB is in perfect condition i probably should try to sell it but finding a new SB in perfect condition would be hard
all ideas are appreciated
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with all the work you are going to do to make a Short bed from a long bed, it would be easier to just buy a Short bed. The Long beds don't have the same angle as short beds. so you have a lot of sheetmetal work ahead of you.
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buy a bad shape but dirt cheap short bed and fix it, buy the repair panels from Chris(captkaos) on this site, the online catalog and then replace what's bad and have ya a short bed.
Now with that said I wonder if somebody can take a long bed, cut the front down enough, leave the middle alone, and then cut down the back, but cut the whole bottom taper off and get a short bed bottom taper/rear wheel bed bottom piece from like captkaos and weld that on and weld the bed back together. Then no need for the taper from the long bed to be wrong. By that on the short bed and long bed I would mean cutting the long bed bedside down, and if you could get the full short bed inner and floor off a junk truck or something.
However as mentioned all that cutting and welding would be better spent on a short bed with a rust issue or something.
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Do they make full repair panels or just a replacement bedside
cost for one side is $329.00 + shipping $125.00 x 2 that's to much for me now on the other hand i would trade a good LB for a good SB that only needs paint
thanks JM
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If you are talking about shipping from me you can get 2 sides shipped for truck freight for the same price, but it isn't $125, it is $150 to a business and $175 to a residence.
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I was going to say if somewhere charges double shipping it's a rip off, if it's big items no matter whether it's 1 or 100 bedsides it should only be one charge of the freight cost or $125 and not $125 per side.
As for patch panels they have complete wheel arches, lower front, lower rear, rear corner around the light. Also tail gate post, inner wheel tub and outer wheel house(inside the bed) be floor whole and halfs and pieces.
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Thanks for advice I'm looking for a bed Craigslist and some other adds if i don't find one i want I'm going to shorten the LB bedsides and use the SB floor.
it looks like a lot of welding to put one of those wheel well patch panel in. if i start to shorten the LB sides I'll upload some pics but for now I'm removing all the front suspension and cross member and getting it ready for paint
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Well got all the front suspension and cross member off and removed all the rear spring mounts.
the front mounts will almost get 3 in. of drop and the shackle mount 2.5 in. I'm going to modify the shackle mount to get bottom holes I'll ad some pic's tomorrow
the spacing for the spring mount are different from SB to LB frames and so are the springs
is this because of different years or lengths
thanks JM
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spring length is determined by the load capacity of the truck. Either LWB or SWB can actually have either 53 or 56" springs. Typically LWB had 56 and SWB had 53, HD SWB had 56 (heavy half) This is for all 73-87 pickups.
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Thanks for the info don't know the history of SWB truck it has 54 in. main leaf on it and the shackle is at the wrong angle. someone must of changed the springs I will just move the shackle hanger
back 1/2 to 3/4 in. when i remount them
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here's some work done over the weekend I moved the spring and shackle hangers. About 2 3/4 drop and I'm going to remove one leaf for now still need some new bolts. if its not low enough I'll re ark two of the bottom leafs
the shackle mounts need to go back 1 to 1 1/2 inch and up 3/8 inch
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if you want to go lower I'd look into getting rid of some leaves, that's a big spring pack kinda HD.
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swims that's good idea is you truck lowered and how many leaves in your spring pack
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I got an 88 k1500 4x4 but my old man has an 84 c10, I aint sure how many leaves he has stock height, I thought 4 or 5 total including the bottom short leaf and top spring eye leaf.
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tried to add some pic's on page 1 but it won't let me so here's some pic's of my 82 long bed.
well it won't look like this again
I started dismantling the 82 LWB today and some more work I've got done on the SWB frame. on the rear springs i only removed one leaf i wont to see how it will sit
also need the front cross member and suspension for the SWB frame
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Is that the 82 with the 6.2L?
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The 82 has a rebuilt 1992 6.2L and I'm swapping all the parts from the 82 to the 73-80 SWB frame also
didn't know that the 70's cab / core support mount are different than the 80's
well I've got the front clip off the 82 LWB truck and hopefully get the engine / trans / front cross member out this weekend
JM
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the 73-80 clip and parts ARE different than a 81-87.
If you are keeping all the 82 sheetmetal, it will bolt to the frame but you need to use the bushings from or for the 1975. The frame horns will need to be trimmed to put the 82 bumper on the 75 frame also.
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Captkaos thanks How about the height difference on the core support mounts the 82 is level with top of frame and 75 is 1/2 in. lower. so the 75 insulator is tall enough to keep the 82 core support at the right height
also what kind of compressor came on all the 80's trucks
JM
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Yes, the frame specific bushings make it correct.
Either long or pancake style came on the 80's
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:) thanks Captkaos I might cut the horns off my 82 frame and put them on the 75 frame the left side was damaged on the 75 frame
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Having an 73 frame and 82 body. Well GM made some changes so did I .
Swap the frame horns and connected the rear cab perches / re-sized cab mounts also got the A arms and cross member bolted in .
Need to place a order from summit racing
some bump stops / mufflers / B&M shift kit / oil sender
there's always more fun ahead ;D JM
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used this flat strap for a drill guide so all the 81-87 insulators fit
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more pics
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I thought all you had to do was use the bushings that match the frame and be done with it?
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Ye you would think so. The cab will bolt on but the core support mounts on 81-87 frame are anywhere from 3/4 to 1 inch farther back then the 73-80 frames.
If you search round to square front clip he also had this problem.
Got some more done today
JM
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How come i can't add or delete any of my pic's ???
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Because you uploaded them.
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Well the chassis is together and i started on the engine i found a manufacturing date on the timing cover
1994 but I'm not sure if its a 6.2L or 6.5L it doesn't say anywhere i do know that its has a one piece rear main seal ??? how do i tell if its a 6.2 or 6.5
I striped the engine down to long block and replaced all seals and gaskets and repainted it
also shorten my bed floor there's a post in the body section
thanks JM
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more pics
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update here's were its now could have the cab on tomorrow
need to modify some of the fuel lines there different LB to SB
I'll keep plugging away JM
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Well here's an update and some pics
Its running and Ive started shorting the bed sides more pics in a day or two JM
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Nice work. Did you find a casting number on the block to ID the motor?
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love this truck / project.
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There's hardly any difference between the 6.2 and 6.5. The 6.5 was just bored out bigger to accept slightly larger pistons. Have you already put back on the heads? If your goal is towards good fuel economy, you might consider installing smaller precombustion chambers on the heads. Most likely, your heads have larger precombustion chambers which is good for power but not for fuel economy. With smaller precombustion chambers, you'll gain about 6-8 mpg's. Yes, you'll lose some power but you can get all the power back with a free flowing exhaust system. I have the smallest precombusion chambers on my 82 Suburban and I'm getting a solid 30 mpg on the freeway. I also have it geared real high with 3.08 gears and 700r4 transmission to keep the rpm's real low.
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Nice work. Did you find a casting number on the block to ID the motor?
Thanks not yet now the engines in i can't find them but i found some #'s on the heads 0137567
maybe someone know what heads i have
JM
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Hey thanks for the info So is the stroke the same on 6.2 and 6.5 engines?
I found casting #'s (0137567) on the heads maybe this can help identifying the top end. I hope there small pre combustion typ.
I'm also running 700R4 and 10 bolt 3:08's peg leg the guy i got the truck from said he was getting 24 mpg towing two jet ski trailer on long trips
If i can get 25mpg on the hwy I'd be thrilled
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Well i finished putting one of the bedsides back together the top part of the panel is flat at the seam but the middle is a little low I'm going to start on the filler tomorrow i hope its not over a 1/8 inch thick
I'll send more pics JM
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Hey thanks for the info So is the stroke the same on 6.2 and 6.5 engines?
I found casting #'s (0137567) on the heads maybe this can help identifying the top end. I hope there small pre combustion typ.
I'm also running 700R4 and 10 bolt 3:08's peg leg the guy i got the truck from said he was getting 24 mpg towing two jet ski trailer on long trips
If i can get 25mpg on the hwy I'd be thrilled
If he got 24 mpg towing two jet ski's, it's got the smaller precombustion chambers. The engines with the larger precombustion chambers won't get 24 mpg solo. Sounds like he made have used the old heads with the smaller precombustion chambers on the newer engine block.
The 700R4 and 3:08's will work out great for good fuel economy.
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Hey thanks for the info So is the stroke the same on 6.2 and 6.5 engines?
I found casting #'s (0137567) on the heads maybe this can help identifying the top end. I hope there small pre combustion typ.
I'm also running 700R4 and 10 bolt 3:08's peg leg the guy i got the truck from said he was getting 24 mpg towing two jet ski trailer on long trips
If i can get 25mpg on the hwy I'd be thrilled
If he got 24 mpg towing two jet ski's, it's got the smaller precombustion chambers. The engines with the larger precombustion chambers won't get 24 mpg solo. Sounds like he made have used the old heads with the smaller precombustion chambers on the newer engine block.
The 700R4 and 3:08's will work out great for good fuel economy.
I'm not sure if he said witch engine was in the truck. and i know he used the heads that were on the new engine
what mpg is typical with 6.2-6.5 with large pre chambered heads non turbo
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Hey thanks for the info So is the stroke the same on 6.2 and 6.5 engines?
I found casting #'s (0137567) on the heads maybe this can help identifying the top end. I hope there small pre combustion typ.
I'm also running 700R4 and 10 bolt 3:08's peg leg the guy i got the truck from said he was getting 24 mpg towing two jet ski trailer on long trips
If i can get 25mpg on the hwy I'd be thrilled
If he got 24 mpg towing two jet ski's, it's got the smaller precombustion chambers. The engines with the larger precombustion chambers won't get 24 mpg solo. Sounds like he made have used the old heads with the smaller precombustion chambers on the newer engine block.
The 700R4 and 3:08's will work out great for good fuel economy.
I'm not sure if he said witch engine was in the truck. and i know he used the heads that were on the new engine
what mpg is typical with 6.2-6.5 with large pre chambered heads non turbo
Typical mileage on a truck like yours with the 6.2/6.5 and large precombustion chambers is around 21 mpg. This is assuming 1/2 ton, 2 wheel drive, 3.08 gears, 700R4 transmission and no faster than 65 mph on the freeway. With the smaller precombusion chambers and the same truck, you would see upper 20's (26-30 mpg). The advantage of the big precombustion chambers is an extra 35 hp but like I said earlier, a lot of that power can be restored with a free flowing exhaust. Also remember, the trucks that were built during the days of the large precombustions chambers were built when fuel was cheap and when there was a power war between the big 3. Dodge had come out with the Cummins and Ford had come out with their Powerstroke so Chevy had do something about it.
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Edahall Thanks did you post you cummins swap for the suburban
also are the casting #'s i found on both heads are these good #'s 0137567
thanks JM
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Man that turned out nice, well done so far.
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Edahall Thanks did you post you cummins swap for the suburban
also are the casting #'s i found on both heads are these good #'s 0137567
thanks JM
Yeah, I've got 2 Suburbans. The 1982 Suburban has the 6.2L diesel and the 1990 has a Cummins 6BT and 6 speed manual shoe horned in. The 1982 Suburban was built for fuel economy and the 1990 with the Cummins was built for brute force towing. The Cummins gets good fuel econonmy as well but not quite as well as the 6.2L. However, it has a lot more grunt power when you hook up 10,000 lbs to the back of it.
There's actually not too much difference between the heads from various years except the precombustion chambers. The newer the heads, the larger the precombustion chambers and more power it'll make but at the expense of fuel economy. The older heads actually have bigger valves and crack easier between the valve seats but it can be easily fixed to not leak with some copper tubing. If your heads have the larger precombustion chambers, you can buy smaller chambers and have them installed.
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Junkman this thing is turning out nicely. It makes me want to go through the work of shortening my stock bed when I shorten the rest of the truck. Plus having it still wear all its original skin is pretty appealing too.
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Hey thanks guys
shorting bedsides is a lot of work maybe not for a good body guy i have many hours in one side and its not done yet JM
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Well here's an update
the beds back in one piece B&A shots also I've striped the inside and glass JM
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looking good man
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WOW look at the new format hey guys its been slow going bodywork and paint isn't my trade last time i did this was fifteen years ago and i payed a painter $150.00 to spray it
well here's some pic's
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also had to block and re primer the bed again also still need to do the front clip
now just waiting for some good weather before its to cold
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hey man do you live around north carolina cause i have a neighbor that had sold a bed that looked just like the one you got
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No not me I'm in California
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Looking good! Keep up the good work.
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Thanks i hope there's some more warm days so i can finish painting it its 35 at might and 60 today
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hey guys finally my bed is done unless i decide to sand and buff it
the paint i used is summits new two stage paint system its low VOC the sealer for cal. is an epoxy primer that is thinned and it can be sprayed over anything then base coat & clear coat this is the first paint job Ive done since i was 17 and it was lacquer well i think it turned out pretty good
all the pic's are from my cell phone there's not many adjustments that can be made
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You are doing a great job, I really like these trucks without the chrome pieces on the sides, I don't know why, they just look better to me.
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You are doing a great job, I really like these trucks without the chrome pieces on the sides, I don't know why, they just look better to me.
ye me to over the weekend i removed the trim from the rear of the cab. the only trim that will be left is the wheel well pieces tailgate insert and they will be satin black i think i will also do the rain gutters black
thanks JM
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Great job!
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Update sure miss working on it. Its in the thirty's and forty's now to cold to paint but there's still body work to be done and plenty more.
happy holidays JM
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update painted the cab this weekend still have fenders hood and cal
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I'm loving the color Junkman!
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Glad it warmed up enough for you to work on your truck.
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Thanks !! its almost two years that i started hope I'm driving it before the years up
I'll post more pics soon JM
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hey guys here's what I've done lately
painted rear siding window drip rails and door panels, after cleaning everything and sanding i used an epoxy primer and then dupli color paint shop jet black and mat clear also replaced one of the wing window seals,well i bought the wrong seal one piece mine are two piece so used urethane windshield sealer to glue it to the frame. worked out good
thanks JM
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Well its been a long time since the stat of my build.
after dropping on the bed i moved the rear shackles back there was a set of hole for the longer springs but had to trim one of the bed ribs. here's some pics
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Your Truck is looking Great !!
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Your Truck is looking Great !!
Thanks its been a lot of work. I've done 95% of the work myself and can't wait to start driving it
I'll have some more pics in a day or two Thanks JM
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hey guys more pics
i painted all the aluminum trim parts black didn't want any chrome but there is the door handles and locks not sure what to do about them paint will just ware off
also need to start on the front clip body work and paint