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73-87 Chevy _ GMC Trucks => Engine/Drivetrain => Topic started by: discot315 on September 13, 2010, 05:15:18 pm
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So i wrecked something in my motor a few months ago and decided to rebuild my motor in school this year because i have a couple mechanics blocks and spare blocks ;D I worked full-time over the summer to save up some money to work on my truck and im still working part-time during school and imgoing to order a rebuild kit.
I was just wondering if theres anything i need to know or any tips anybody could give me for doing this and what to do to the motor.
So far i have a few things off of the motor and the oil drained, guna get ready to pull it in the next few days if all goes well. Any tips or advice would be great! any part suggestions or anything i will appreciate.
Thanks! -Trevor
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350?
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get a digital camera and take pics of everything while pulling the engine so you'll know how it goes back. I'm talking vacuum lines (an '80 model has a bunch), carb linkage, trans lines, starter wires, alt wires, fan belt routing, everything....when i pulled my 79 350 out, I took literally hundreds...even have my vacuum line pics on line
www.delbridge.net/vacuum.html
www.delbridge.net/install
get some ziplock bags and a sharpie and label all bolts that you take out so you know where they go back.
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Thanks for the replys. Yeah its a 350 i just drained all the coolant today and got the rad out next step is to undo the headers and tranny then the motor mounts and pull it! im hoping to have it out by friday.
I have been taking a few pictures but il start taking more now that you mention it and the idea with the bags and the sharpie is a great i dea i didnt think of, i checked out the pictures of your swap and the carb and stuff looks alot like what mine does, did you get a new carb on the new motor? or just clean it up
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I have a copy of this dvd and I think it's well worth the price:
http://store.boxwrench.net/Basic-Engine-Building-DVD_p_8.html
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did you get a new carb on the new motor? or just clean it up
I gotta new edelbrock carb and so glad I did...the engine and all had over 150k miles on it. The new carb on the new engine runs sooooo good.
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also, you need torque specs putting everything back and building the engine. Chilton's or hayne's manualis good for torque specs.
also, David Vizard is a wizard on building sbc's.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/search/ref=sr_adv_b/?search-alias=stripbooks&unfiltered=1&field-keywords=&field-author=vizard&field-title=chevy&field-isbn=&field-publisher=&node=&field-p_n_condition-type=&field-feature_browse-bin=&field-binding_browse-bin=&field-subject=&field-language=&field-dateop=&field-datemod=&field-dateyear=&sort=relevanceexprank&Adv-Srch-Books-Submit.x=0&Adv-Srch-Books-Submit.y=0
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Ya i have a hane's manual for all that it helps alot lol
Ok i was thinking if i should replace my carb or not, i have one off a 74 Chev i was thinking of rebuilding and using but not sure.
I have the motor almost ready to pull, i got the motor mount bolts off and i have the crane holding the motor and got the bolts from the tranny to the motor off i just dont know how the get the motor off of the tranny now, is there a certain way to do it? i didnt wana try and pull it off until i knew if there was a way or something..
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Did you remove the torque converter bolts? Keep the converter in the trans. The motor should lift right off and away.
If you have a manual trans the motor will have to slide a good ways forward, and I find it's alot easier to remove the motor mounts from the frame. If you haven't already done so, I recommend removing the radiator so you don't cave it in with the motor.
Make sure you don't crash your dist. into the firewall. I always take at least the cap off.
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the torque converter is probably still bolted to the engine's flywheel. Make sure you remove the little nuts on the torque converter. Remove the trans crossmember/driveshaft/ linkage. You may then be able to gently pry the trans from the engine block. I don't think you have to remove starter, but, might as well since you gotta remove it anyway eventually.
Remove the kickdown cable from the carb to trans. The radiator cooling lines for trans, too.
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And you'll need to support the front of the tranny. A floor jack or jack stand will work just fine. If you don't support it, it will give you fits and ultimately tip down when you do get the motor loose from it.
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Alright thats a big help, my tranny is a manual ya. I have almost everything i can get off, off of it i will post a picture of my progress later when im home im at school right now where im working on it. I have a jack under the tranny for when the motors off.
I have the radiator and starter and distributor off already, i have the motor mount bolts off and i have the crane on it and i tried lifting it but it lifted the tranny and t-case and all that so i stopped. So i have to move it forward then up and off? If thats the case then i guess il take the motor mounts off the frame it well be alot easier. Im just wondering if theres anything I gotta do with like the clutch or flywheel or anything to maybe free the motor?? or does it just come off, lol. Thanks for the replys!
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Yeah I would remove the motor mounts from the frame and then it will slide forward easier. It will need to go forward about 6-8". Your clutch is bolted to your flywheel and it will all come out together with the motor. That's why it has to slide forward so far to come loose. When you go to put the clutch back on you will need a clutch pilot tool to get it lined back up again. If you are going through all the trouble I would recommend re-surfacing the flywheel, replace the clutch and throw out bearing, and replace the pilot bushing while you have it apart, if you plan on keeping the manual trans in it. Now would also be the time to replace the motor mounts. I just did this recently on mine, except for the clutch & flywheel business because I swapped in an auto.
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once unbolted from the bellhousing, the manual trans should pull out towards the rear of vehicle. The pressure plate is inside the bellhousing and keeps the clutch disc bolted to the flywheel until you pull trans to get to it.
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Im not taking out the tranny if i can help it i just wana pull the motor and put it back in.
Before i left school today i sprayed where the motor mounts connect with the frame with PB Blaster, lol should be ready to take em off when i get back there. Yeah i figured since im redoing most things on the motor i may as well add a new clutch in there too. Whats a advantage to replacing the motor mounts?? And when i get the motor out the clutch and flywheel will come off? i dont have to do anything else?
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The clutch is bolted to the flywheel, and the flywheel is bolted to the end of the crank shaft. It will all come out together. This is not the best picture but you can kind of see that the motor will have to slide forward far enough to clear the trans input shaft.
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The trans and t-case will stay where they are, but you might need to use that jack under the trans to tilt up a bit to get a better angle to slide off the input shaft splines. Thats where taking the motor mounts off and removing your dist. cap comes in to play. In this picture you can see the flywheel and the clutch, bolted to the back of the motor.
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Safety, with that manual trans its a bear (think its the one with a granny gear) that bad boy alone weighs around 185 pounds then the transfer case
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Ohhhhhhhh ok, those pictures help out ALOT haha Thanks. Yeah so il take the mounts off the frame and then do what you said and slide the motor off the imput shaft. I already have a jack under the tranny and il probebly end up puting a jack stand in there while i have the motor out. I can just imagine what all that weighs dont want anything happening.
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Ok i got my motor out today, I got there i jacked up the tranny and got the mounts off the frame and pulled the motor off the imput shaft then up and out! It was a little hard to get it off the imput shaft, but im glad its out and i can start tearing it apart. ;D
But I was looking at the tranny and everything and its pretty greasy and theres a bit of black-ish liquid in the tranny... is that supposed to be there? any ideas what it could be? ??? just wondering lol
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Ok i got my motor out today, I got there i jacked up the tranny and got the mounts off the frame and pulled the motor off the imput shaft then up and out! It was a little hard to get it off the imput shaft, but im glad its out and i can start tearing it apart. ;D
But I was looking at the tranny and everything and its pretty greasy and theres a bit of black-ish liquid in the tranny... is that supposed to be there? any ideas what it could be? ??? just wondering lol
Sounds like gear oil and yes it is suppose to be there :)
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Before you start ripping the motor apart, you need a way to mark the internal parts. Harbor Freight, Northern tool, or a bunch of other places will have a numbered punch set you can use to mark each rod, rod cap, and main caps. The orientation of these parts is very important for reassembly. Not only the proper location, but the proper orientation as well. One rod cap on the wrong rod, or turned around 180degrees will give you fits. Same for the main caps.
Also, you said you were going to buy a rebuild kit? Any particular reason why? You can re-use a good portion of the parts in the motor you have, unless some kinda of catastrophic damage has occurred. Rods can be resized, cranks can be reground. Heck, even pistons can be re-used if the block can be cleaned back up without over-boring. Save all your parts, mark them accordingly, and take them to a reputable machine shop. have everything checked out to see what is usable and what isn't. You might end up just buying what you need and coming out a lot cheaper in the long run.
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I decided not to rebuild the motor yet, I was at the local wreckers with a buddy looking around and ended up pricing out a motor lol So im going to keep my old 350 and i think rebuild it later,I just need my truck done sooner and my mechanics teacher isnt helpful at all lately and i dont want to screw anything up in the motor.
And the gear oil in the tranny, my mechanics teacher said that much isnt supposed to be there and it will caus the clutch to slip? When i was driving it i never had the clutch slip so im guessing its fine.. lol
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Are you talking about oil and residue in the bellhousing, or in the trans itself. The trans should be filled with 80-90 until it runs out of the fill hole. The bellhousing area should be dry. Oil on the clutch components in the bellhousing area can cause a clutch to slip. If you have oil there it could be a front input seal on the trans or engine oil residue that has collected there from a leak on the motor, like a rear main seal, back of the intake, etc.
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well shoot ya the oil is in the bell housing where the clutch and stuff is, I guess its the front imput seal because the back of the motor was completly dry. Is that seal hard to replace? is it ok if i dont replace it?
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I've never replaced one, but I doubt that it's that difficult to replace. You could probably get away with leaving it if it never gave you trouble before, but since you have it all apart already....
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Before you start ripping the motor apart, you need a way to mark the internal parts. Harbor Freight, Northern tool, or a bunch of other places will have a numbered punch set you can use to mark each rod, rod cap, and main caps. The orientation of these parts is very important for reassembly. Not only the proper location, but the proper orientation as well. One rod cap on the wrong rod, or turned around 180degrees will give you fits. Same for the main caps.
Also, you said you were going to buy a rebuild kit? Any particular reason why? You can re-use a good portion of the parts in the motor you have, unless some kinda of catastrophic damage has occurred. Rods can be resized, cranks can be reground. Heck, even pistons can be re-used if the block can be cleaned back up without over-boring. Save all your parts, mark them accordingly, and take them to a reputable machine shop. have everything checked out to see what is usable and what isn't. You might end up just buying what you need and coming out a lot cheaper in the long run.
Thanks for the harbor freight tip; i'm in the same boat as our friend discot---this is really my first real rebuild. Can you tell me a little more about marking parts?
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Yeah thats true since its apart, But i have never had trouble I didnt even now that was bad. I guess Im going to ask my teacher about it again and maybe research what kinda job it would be to replace it and what kinda cost.
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Need to know which internal parts need to be marked.
Why they need to be marked and how, exactly, to mark them.
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Bearings, pushrods, lifters, etc. Why- They all have their separate wear patterns and set orientation. Think of them as close friends that want to be together.
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Spend the $12 or so and get a chevy v8 engine rebuild manual. It will help you save a lot of time and money. It also illustrates the best way to stamp the rods, caps, everything. You don't want any of the parts to go into a different cylinder or a different orientation. You would think if you are going to replace all of the bearings that it wouldn't matter as wear patterns are gone, but that's not the case. Don't ask me why but a friend rebuilt a 305 and accidentally swapped rods and pistons on two cylinders and when he turned it over by hand he could feel it binding up. Figured it out, swapped them back and it turned easily.
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OK so I need to replace that input shaft seal thing in my tranny, its leaking gear oil real bad my teacher doesnt want me puting my motor in... lol. How hard of a job is it? My friend said it just goes in but i need the shift fork and stuff out first, how do I manage to get that all out?
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So I used solvent in a big bucket and 2 brushes and cleaned my tranny up real good it took about 2 hours haha but then I opened it up and put the new oil seal in so I guess its worth it in the end. The pictures are before and after of the tranny. (if they work)
and I bought a new clutch kit to go in when I put the new motor in so im pretty excited to get my truck going again! Thanks for all the replys and help