73-87chevytrucks.com
73-87 Chevy _ GMC Trucks => 73-87 Chevy & GMC Trucks => Topic started by: Unofficial on September 29, 2010, 12:35:34 am
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I posted a thread a couple weeks ago about some possible blow-by issues, and it got really bad one day after coming home from school. I was blowing tons of smoke out my driver's side exhaust and I blew my valve cover gasket too. Smoke everywhere! Well I wanted to park it for the week but my dad told me it'll be fine since we're gonna put in a new bottom end anyway. I told him how bad it was but he didn't seem to get it...
Well today he sees me driving to school while he's driving home for lunch and he called me later and said to get started on it today ;D
I'm getting a whole new bottom end and I'll just reuse all of my other stuff like heads, intake, cam, etc... basically just getting a new short block.
So I worked on it from about 11am-1:30pm and then 9:30pm-12am and here's my progress...
(http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n187/w00ty_01/OverhaulDay1002.jpg)
Had to move Dad's Mustang to use the garage!
(http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n187/w00ty_01/OverhaulDay1003.jpg)
In the garage and ready to go
(http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n187/w00ty_01/OverhaulDay1004.jpg)
Here's what I'm working with...
(http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n187/w00ty_01/OverhaulDay1010.jpg)
I took the hood off for more room/light
(http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n187/w00ty_01/OverhaulDay1007.jpg)
Aaaaaand here we go!
(http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n187/w00ty_01/OverhaulDay1017.jpg)
Valve cover is off so I can take the driver's side head off because I think that's where my problem is
(http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n187/w00ty_01/OverhaulDay1021.jpg)
Head is off, doesn't look too bad except that #5 has quite a bit of oil in in...
(http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n187/w00ty_01/OverhaulDay1022.jpg)
Here's 1,3,5, and 7
(http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n187/w00ty_01/OverhaulDay1024.jpg)
Driver's side head
(http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n187/w00ty_01/OverhaulDay1025.jpg)
Being goofy ;)
(http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n187/w00ty_01/OverhaulDay1029.jpg)
Other head is off for further inspection, I'm having them checked out ASAP
(http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n187/w00ty_01/OverhaulDay1030.jpg)
All ready to be pulled out!
(http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n187/w00ty_01/OverhaulDay1034.jpg)
Here's what tomorrow awaits...
Sorry these pictures aren't the greatest for a how-to or anything, just thought I'd share with you guys. Everything is ready for it to be pulled out tomorrow, I'll keep you guys posted with info & pictures.
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what seat do you have in there? is it still for sale even after doing all this work
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looks good latching on to this one :p
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Which seat? It's just a bench seat if that's what you mean. And yes, I still want to sell it after I do this work.
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Looks small for a full size truck for some reason
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I agree
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Might be my camera, the lens angle is kind of weird. Funny though because a guy called about an ad I had on craigslist for it and he thought it was a short box because of the picture. It's a long box I swear! :D
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I'll take dad's '65 Mustang!! From your pic, I think I see the chrome fender 289 emblem. Don't tell me it is a early 65 w/ a 260.? C4 auto? or standard 3 or 4 spd? I used to judge concours correct mustangs at 'stang shows years ago. have your dad pull up my site: www.delbridge.net/vintage.html
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As mentioned, the seat looks way small like its from a mini truck or something. It looks like you'd be sitting on one cheek while driving.
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I'll take dad's '65 Mustang!! From your pic, I think I see the chrome fender 289 emblem. Don't tell me it is a early 65 w/ a 260.? C4 auto? or standard 3 or 4 spd? I used to judge concours correct mustangs at 'stang shows years ago. have your dad pull up my site: www.delbridge.net/vintage.html
'65 with a 289. We restored it together a while ago. It had a 3 speed but we blew it up on a little road trip so we put a 4 speed toploader in it. He lets me drive it sometimes, it's a lot of fun ;D
As mentioned, the seat looks way small like its from a mini truck or something. It looks like you'd be sitting on one cheek while driving.
Yeah, it does look kind of small... But like I said, my camera lens is kind of odd and plus the angle I was holding the camera was weird.
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I miss my 66.
Didnt want to pull the engine, THEN tear it apart?
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I miss my 66.
Didnt want to pull the engine, THEN tear it apart?
No?
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Well I got it out a couple days ago... The rings on piston 3 and 7 were completely shot and the grooves between the ring sets were basically gone. I'm having the whole thing re-ringed and having the heads gone over. I should have it back tomorrow morning but I'll be busy with work and school so it might take a while to get back in the truck. Here's a few more pictures, sorry I don't have any of the internal damage.
(http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n187/w00ty_01/OverhaulDay2001.jpg)
(http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n187/w00ty_01/OverhaulDay2002.jpg)
(http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n187/w00ty_01/OverhaulDay2003.jpg)
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I wonder what caused the ring failures? The ring landings are bad too? So you're getting new pistons? But #5 seemed ok?
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I wonder what caused the ring failures? The ring landings are bad too? So you're getting new pistons? But #5 seemed ok?
Well at first I thought I might have made a small hole in one of the pistons due to bad timing over a long period of time, but I think I know what caused the ring failure... This motor was completely rebuilt about 10k miles ago so something major must have done this.
I was going down to Illinois (only about 40 mins away) to take a girl to a movie and my 700r4 went out on me. I drove the rest of the way there in second gear because all I had was first and second. I drove it home the same way, so I was at high rpms for a prolonged time period, I'm sure that's what initially destroyed the rings and it just got worse and worse until I got the severe blow-by problems. The guy who builds my motors is using a whole new block and everything though, so I'm looking forward to getting it going again.
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Didnt want to pull the engine, THEN tear it apart?
That's what I was thinking... Would have been a whole lot easier.
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Agreed, I wouldn't have pulled it apart in the truck if you're taking the whole engine out.
Don't leave your torque converter hanging on the front seal like that or you'll need to replace it.
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I would replace the front trans seal just for GP.
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buy some new motor mounts...like $10 each---they are a pain to replace w/ engine still in. I just had to do that a couple of months ago. It's a cinch to do it w/ engine out. Those rubber insulators do go bad.
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Well I didn't think I was going to pull the engine but after seeing that I wasn't going to be replacing only a piston by pulling off the heads I just pulled the whole thing... Geez guys does it really matter? :P
Good idea Sgt, I didn't think about that. I'll definitely be replacing those then.
I didn't know I was affecting the front seal...Is it hard to replace once I take the TC off? I've never done it before.
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Geez guys does it really matter? :P
yes, yes it does. We're older and lazier... Makes all the difference in the world for some of us :D
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Front seal is very simple. Slide the converter out, use a seal puller or punch a small hole in the tin part of the seal, and screw a sheet metal screw into the hole. Slide hammer with a screw attachment works great, but Vise grips and some gentel encouragement will pull it out. Then just tap the new one back in with a socket or piece of pipe the same diameter as the outside diameter of the seal.
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Geez guys does it really matter? :P
yes, yes it does. We're older and lazier... Makes all the difference in the world for some of us :D
Haha point taken! This is only my second time doing something somewhat major, I guess I just got a little excited.
Front seal is very simple. Slide the converter out, use a seal puller or punch a small hole in the tin part of the seal, and screw a sheet metal screw into the hole. Slide hammer with a screw attachment works great, but Vise grips and some gentel encouragement will pull it out. Then just tap the new one back in with a socket or piece of pipe the same diameter as the outside diameter of the seal.
Good deal, thanks for the info. I'll put it on the list :D
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the Tc can actually move up and down some and with the motor out it's not centered and all it's weight is kinda pushing down on the seal which with an old seal can tear it or make it stay that way. They are cheap, any parts store would have one, and you just slide the TC out and flip it over quickly or it'll make a big mess of fluid, and by flip it over I mean the part you see now that is againist the flexplate that goes down towards the ground.
I use a screwdrive behind the metal lip and hammer it off, then sit the new one flat on and hold it by hand and tap around it with a hammer jumping around left to right top to bottom, but pipe or socket or anything to fit the outside of it make it much easier, even a 2x4 or 4x4 or something, playwood anything.
No worrys on taking it apart in the truck, I did the same, thought I was gonna do a headjob and valve job to it, and be done, decided it's that far might as well do the rest since it's cheap for parts. I actually pulled the motor out without anything, I just had the trans and all out, took the heads off and flipped it backwards with a big pry bar. it was in my 88 k1500 and had plenty of room. it flipped out and laid over on the top and I had a chain bolts to it, grabbed that and drug the block out, it was on plywood so it moved easy. Then me and my old man put a 4x4 thru the chain and lifted the whole shortblock and put it in a wheel barrow, rolled it next door to his house bolted the stand head to it and lifted it out and put it on the stand. Rebuilt it, had it complete minus the tbi unit and manifolds, rolled it back over in the wheel barrow and had a cherry picker then, lol put it back in with the picker.
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Hey guys I got my new motor and I have a few questions. I know there's controversy between the ways the break in a new engine... Does anyone have any tried and true methods to break in a new engine? All I know is not to use synthetic and to run it hard! Any light on this subject is appreciated, I plan on having it running in the next day or so.
(http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n187/w00ty_01/OverhaulDay3001.jpg)
My first question concerns this part... I know it has something to do with the oil, but I also have what I think is a sending unit next to the distributor behind the intake... So what's the purpose of this one?
(http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n187/w00ty_01/OverhaulDay3002.jpg)
Here it is in place
(http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n187/w00ty_01/OverhaulDay3003.jpg)
Here's the sending unit (I think). So this is what is responsible for what I see on my gauge?
Thanks for any help...
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top = ECM
Bottom = Guage
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buy some new motor mounts...like $10 each---they are a pain to replace w/ engine still in. I just had to do that a couple of months ago. It's a cinch to do it w/ engine out. Those rubber insulators do go bad.
Ha Ha... I bought a new performance motor and kept the old mounts... They are busted to heck and I have only driven 30 miles... >:( >:( >:( Good advise, spend $20 save 1 hour of anger.
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Break in the cam -we just had a post on this (search) 20 minutes. Change the oil and filter then onto Breaking in the rings... Make sure you vary engine speed and moderate acceleration to WOT within the first 50 miles.
Oil pressure switch near distributor for ECM oil pressure sending unit for gauge.