73-87chevytrucks.com
73-87 Chevy _ GMC Trucks => Body, Glass & Paint => Topic started by: 87swb on November 18, 2010, 07:47:31 pm
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when i take my windshield/back glass channels down to bare metal. what should i do for primer. i'm gonna clean up all the surface rust,rust pits to bare shiny metal and fill in those few little tiny holes with that jb weld stik. then i was gonna use rattle can self etching, spraymax aerosl epoxy or just plain rustoleum auto primer as a basecoat over that and then regular primer over one of those and then filler primer and primer sealer if need be and then paint and clear coat.
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Plain old auto primer be it in a spray bomb or mixed with lacquer thinner, and shot from a gun is a waste of money.
First thing you will need to sand blast the rust. Second I would weld the pin holes not JB them. Then touch up the welds with a grinder. Next use a touch of short strand fiberglass filler to fill the pits left from the rust being blasted. Then use a self etching primer. I have good luck with Trans Stars spray bomb etching primer. Then I would use a catalyzed high build urethane primer.
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What Blazin said. A couple of q's though: what is your end goal? Drive it in primer? Rattle can the whole truck? Fix it a little at a time and someday take it to have the whole thing painted? Do you have the ability to spray with a spray gun or are you willing to do that?
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you're not gonna be able to see the repair by the time you put the weatherstrips back on. and i'm not leaving anything in primer and i'm not painting the whole truck. the color code of the silver on my truck is U8798 which you can buy that at o'reillys in the duplicolor spray can off the shelf. i've tried it on a few areas and it blends right in and matches perfect. clear coat the spot and buff some rubbing compound on it so it'll blend, not bad at all. the paint on my truck is in pretty good shape so its gonna have to get real bad cause it'll cost a fortune on getting it repainted back in 2 tone. as far as the spray guns and air compressors and having paint mixed up go, it does not make good sense to buy all that just for this little repair and i don't have a shop. i'm just trying to keep the body in pretty good shape till i do get it repainted someday.
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So this is a maintenance thing. Stick with the self etching primer, and some high build in a spray bomb. As far as getting rid of the rust you should blast it, and weld the pin holes for a permanant repair.
You could probably get away with Chassis Saver paint over the very well cleaned areas of rust, then the JB weld, and high build primer over the uncured Chassis Saver. No need for self etching primer over Chassis Saver.
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i dont have a welder either but theres a shop down the road that can come to me. the biggest one is about the size of a fingernail and theres 3 in the front channel and three in the back channel. i don't know if you could weld it witout blowing thru or not. i'm indecisive on that. i would rather it be welded. as far as the rust i was gonna get a dremmel and cordless drill with wire wheels and go to town till it's all shiny. there is a pro line paint system store in town. can you tell what to ask for?
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A wire wheel will not get all the rust. You need to get at least all the scale off, so all you have left it the pits from the rust, and the brown color to the metal. Then you could use Chassis Saver, or POR 15. Chassis Saver is about half the $$. I have never heard of proling before, I wouldn't know what to ask for specifically. Most paint lines make a spray bomb self etching primer, but its for clean bare metal. As far as high build there are some companies that make it in a spray bomb that can be activated. The catalyst is in glass balls inside the can, when you shake it they break and activate the primer.
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i think they deal with ppg stuff. i'll use self etch as long you dont think it will hurt. i know it has acid. i just don't wanna make it any worse. i'm a little cautious doing this. thanks for your advice btw.
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Remember self etch does nothing over any type of rust, or old paint.
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could a product called Rustmort be used after the wire wheel to kill the rust, then apply the self etching then sealer to keep it from coming back?
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Chassis Saver was mentioned, which is similar to Rustmort. You don't need self etching primer if you use that kind of product. Self etching is only for bare metal. If the rust won't be sandblasted its probably a good idea to use something like that.
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No need anymore for self etching primer, First off it doesn't block moisture, Like spray bomb primer it absorbs moisture, Only thing you should spray on bare metal is 2 part epoxy primer/sealer it bonds tight to the metal and seals it from ANY moisture. and nothing in a spray can is "epoxy" It has to be 2 parts to be a true epoxy, otherwise it would harden inside the can.
This is the best forum for any body work questions,
http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/body-exterior/
and Fiberglass has no use for body work on anything other than a corvette.