73-87chevytrucks.com
73-87 Chevy _ GMC Trucks => Interior & Equipment => Topic started by: Thermal Izod on December 25, 2010, 05:35:09 am
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Hey all, I've had this problem for some time now....My doors, in my regular cab, won't shut tight without slamming....I've tried adjusting the alignment, but it's not helping...It seems that when one door, or a window, is open, they close with normal force, but otherwise, they will catch, but not close tightly unless shoved or slammed...Anyone have any ideas?
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try shutting the door real slowly, when the latch hits the striker does the door move up or down? did you replace the seals/weatherstrips recently?
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Adjust the striker and make sure it has a bushing on it.
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Adjust the striker and make sure it has a bushing on it.
If the door strikers don't have the plasting bushings; get new strikers with the bushings installed from the "help" section at your local auto parts store.
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I had a thought on this subject today. As my drivers door needs to be slammed when the windows are up but the passenger side door does not. The passenger dang near clicks shut even with the windows up and the AC fan running.
Both my doors have the original latches in them, but the passenger door hardly ever got used, while the drivers door was probably over used. I'd bet on a lot of these trucks, it has to do with worn out door latches.
If I ever do come across an NOS drivers side latch I'll probably buy one to find out. I'm leary to buy aftermarket for something like that, unless someone can chime on on their experience and point me towards a good brand to buy.
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I am putting another vote to starting with the bushings on the posts. I swapped my out for some new ones and the doors close like a new truck. Cheap at $2 for the pair and about 15 minutes to change.
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I had a thought on this subject today. As my drivers door needs to be slammed when the windows are up but the passenger side door does not. The passenger dang near clicks shut even with the windows up and the AC fan running.
Both my doors have the original latches in them, but the passenger door hardly ever got used, while the drivers door was probably over used. I'd bet on a lot of these trucks, it has to do with worn out door latches.
If I ever do come across an NOS drivers side latch I'll probably buy one to find out. I'm leary to buy aftermarket for something like that, unless someone can chime on on their experience and point me towards a good brand to buy.
I have replaced pins and bushings in a lot of door hinges, but if they are not loose you don't need to replace them, also you can see and feel if they are worn.
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I did the Pex trick on my doors and that really made a difference
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Just don't forget the latch, but make it the LAST thing you try. Everything on my doors is new, and in excellent shape except the drivers side latche.
There's only 3 things to try anyway.
Striker bolt, then hinge pins, then latch. there's nothing else to do, unless the door alignment is way off. Even with new door seals, my passenger door would click shut.
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I'll have to re-evaluate the striker bolt idea....I know they are worn, just by memory....I did the hinge pins and bushings to no avail....the door weather strips are old and fairly well crushed...I'm thinking that the strikers could just be so worn and gouged that the latch has trouble riding over it and grabbing?
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One other question, where is the bushing on the striker bolt? I don't recall one between the striker and the body itself....is there supposed to be one on the striker where the latch grabs it?
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I used a piece of half inch pex to make the bushings and put them on. Can't believe the difference it made closing the doors. I found out about it from a post here
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this bushing, it's supposed to be on the striker bolt? where the latch grabs onto it? mine are bare metal...
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(http://www.jcwhitney.com/jcwhitney/product/images/large/G_10289G_CL_1.jpg)
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Edahall: Thanks for that pic....Mine do not have the bushings...I suppose that's why I have to slam my doors?
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1982, what size pex did you use for this?
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1982, what size pex did you use for this?
Use 1/2" pex. It should look like this when finished.
(http://img91.imageshack.us/img91/4642/servicewrench011a.jpg)
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did you use some kind of adheasive, or just cut and place it on?
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did you use some kind of adhesive, or just cut and place it on?
1982 mentioned using Pex so I got curious and did a search on it. That said, I checked my 1990 Suburban and none of the strikers had the bushings. The doors don't shut too bad for a truck but it'll be interesting how they close after adding the bushings. Never know, maybe the doors will shut nice like my Italian Allante. Regarding adhesive, I would definitely use some type of adhesive. The type I have in mind is PL Polyurethane Premium Construction Adhesive. It's super strong and has a thick consistency so it doesn't run once applied.
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The half inch pex fits pretty tight I didn't use any adhesive, and it only cost about $1.30 for 4 feet of it at the hardware store.
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awesome...I'll stop by Lowe's on my way home tonight. Thanks.
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The bushing should roll on the striker bolt so do not use adhesive. Strikers are cheap and the actual direct replacement bushing is cheaper.
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I used the pex trick, made a huge difference.
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Ok, so this morning I spent about 10 minutes doing the pex trick on both doors....Wow, what a difference. That certainly fixed the problem. I also noticed that the doors click open smoother, both inside and out. With the doors open about 4-6", I am now able to push them all the way shut with just the tip of my finger...Tremendous. No more loud door slam, they shut as easy and quiet as a brand new car.
Thanks for the tip to all who posted on this. $2.00, ten minutes, and one tool used is the biggest bang for the buck/time job I have done as far back as I can remember.
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Do you take any material out or just make a slice to get it to fit on?
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I just cut them to size, then used tin snips to slice a line down them longways....then simply wrestle them on, and wa-la!
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A PO of my truck used tape... didn't work so well. I'll either try a new bolt or the pex trick, myself.
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Thanks Thermal. I have a hack saw, so it should be easy.
Pex, aka PVC?
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No problem....I hack sawed it to size, then sliced with tin snips...easy easy
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Pex, aka PVC?
No, specify PEX. You'll never get rigid PVC over the bolt.
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The bushing should roll on the striker bolt so do not use adhesive. Strikers are cheap and the actual direct replacement bushing is cheaper.
x's 2 on this. Why not just buy the actual correct replacement part for a correct rapair? it is cheap and in stock at most parts stores.
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I just replaced the strikers on my 1984 Chevy K10. What an improvement!!! The door shuts like new. Sure was a cheap fix. Thanks for all the great advice and this suburb website!!!!
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The reason is simple....I am a government employee, and my truck is not a show piece, merely a nice looking weekend cruiser....This cost $2, versus $20 for the bolts. Every dollar counts for me for the next few years as I develop my career, and that $18 dollars saved is the majority of the cost for me to take my wife out to dinner one night soon.