73-87chevytrucks.com
General Site Info => General Discussion => Topic started by: log1000 on February 04, 2011, 07:47:11 am
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if they are stuck in how to remove ball joints for a k10 ??? 4 x4
k10 Custom deluxe don't how what year it is
this is how it is stuck
now the trucks brakes are sticking after we put in a new brake booster and the 3d gear drive is slipping what do i do to fix the brakes, and the 3d gear drive? ???
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4x4 or 2wd? big diff.
http://www.delbridge.net/balljoints
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4x4 or 2wd? big diff.
http://www.delbridge.net/balljoints
4x4
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When you say stuck in do you mean stuck at the axle housing or stuck in the steering knuckle?
Stuck in the axle housing:Remove wheel, brakes, hub, bearings, rotor, tie rod, spindle, axle shaft, ball joint nuts, and smack axle housing were ball joints go in real hard with a big hammer.
Stuck in the steering knuckle:Take the knuckle to a garage and ask them to help you out with a ball joint tool. Or rent one if one is available.
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i have tried using the ball joint tool but it didn't work
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Did you remove the snap-rings? Sometimes they are buried in rust, grease and mud. I use a jack stand that is a round pipe, Flip the knuckle upside down so the upper joint fits into the tube to support the knuckle. Drive out the lower, then with a long punch or what I use is a 1/2 drive extension and socket drive out the upper. Reverse for installation. It helps to have some big sockets that fit over the shoulder of the balljoint.
I hope this helps.
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Did you remove the snap-rings? Sometimes they are buried in rust, grease and mud. I use a jack stand that is a round pipe, Flip the knuckle upside down so the upper joint fits into the tube to support the knuckle. Drive out the lower, then with a long punch or what I use is a 1/2 drive extension and socket drive out the upper. Reverse for installation. It helps to have some big sockets that fit over the shoulder of the balljoint.
I hope this helps.
the ball joints on it are 20 years old
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There are some good videos on this topic in you tube. One of the best ones ive seen is from farmboy. Just type in farmboy on the youtube website. I think it is under farmboy 30117 or something close to that.
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Did you remove the snap-rings? Sometimes they are buried in rust, grease and mud. I use a jack stand that is a round pipe, Flip the knuckle upside down so the upper joint fits into the tube to support the knuckle. Drive out the lower, then with a long punch or what I use is a 1/2 drive extension and socket drive out the upper. Reverse for installation. It helps to have some big sockets that fit over the shoulder of the balljoint.
I hope this helps.
the ball joints on it are 20 years old
Why didn't you answer his question?
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that axle is over 20. 31-35 years old the snap rings can be real hard to see with rust and dirt being all over
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Here is a link for the Dana axle Bill Of Material, http://www2.dana.com/expertforms/dedraw.aspx?drawing=00002370 . I am not sure what you are referring to as stuck? If you remove the 4 bolts for the top cap and then remove the spring and the plastic bushing. Then remove the lower bearing cap bolts. To remove the lower cap you will need to persuade it a little bit with a hammer. Tap the cab from the side to rotate it a little then you can tap it down to remove it. The knuckle will then fall right off.
I hope I have helped you now.
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Hey thanks for pointing that out. I guess I read it wrong.
I should have stayed out of it, but I took it as: Why didn't you remove the snap rings? answer: The balljoints are twenty years old. Did Log1000 remove the snap rings? I don't know anything about this topic, I'm just reading it to learn a little something. I just hate to see someone get upset over a misunderstanding. It is none of my business, though. You and Vile are big boys, you can work this out.
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Not sure what I missed or what you wrote but from the sounds of it- it's probably a good thing.
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I should have stayed out of it, but I took it as: Why didn't you remove the snap rings? answer: The balljoints are twenty years old. Did Log1000 remove the snap rings? I don't know anything about this topic, I'm just reading it to learn a little something. I just hate to see someone get upset over a misunderstanding. It is none of my business, though. You and Vile are big boys, you can work this out.
yes i did remove the snap rings but it is just the lower ball joint now that is stuck I'm thinking of using vinegar to loosen it
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You're using a ball joint press right? PB blaster and a 3lb BFH is all you need. Once you have some good tension on it, strike the knuckle near the ball joint area sharply 2-3 times then continue with the press. It should pop right out.
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You're using a ball joint press right? PB blaster and a 3lb BFH is all you need. Once you have some good tension on it, strike the knuckle near the ball joint area sharply 2-3 times then continue with the press. It should pop right out.
it is like the the pix i posted just the lower ball joint is in the Axel still but the top is out
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I think you need to post a picture of exactly what your working on. The picture you posted is a Dana 60, and it doesn't even look like a Chevy axle and definitely not a stock axle for a 1/2 ton truck. Neither the dana 60 or 44 have a ball joint that is pressed in the axle. If it is indeed a Dana 60, did you remove the lower cap?
http://www2.dana.com/expertforms/dedraw.aspx?drawing=00002370 This is a link for the Dana 60 axle.
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and please dont talk like your texting, it is hard to follow.
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wow ya'll are just trying to ruffle some feathers huh!
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wow ya'll are just trying to ruffle some feathers huh!
l'm sorry i can't spell fast so i mess up alot
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that axle is over 20. 31-35 years old the snap rings can be real hard to see with rust and dirt being all over
i have removed the snap ring it just the blot that is stuck in the Axel housing
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Isn't that in the pic a king pin
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Is the picture you posted of the actual axle your working on? Have you looked at the links that I have provided? There are no snap-rings holding in the joints on the Dana 60 axle. Are you talking about the cotterpin on the lower joint (D44).
Again I will ask that you look at the links I provided, so you can positively identify your axle. It will make it allot easier to assist you. You can then identify witch part of the axle that you are having problems with. You could simply say what number in the drawing you are having problems with.
You don't have to type fast, were not here to grade your typing skills.
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This is the way I look at stuff like this
- They sell the parts, so it is possible
- It went in there, it will come out
- I'm not the only person to run into this
- If other people can get it out, I can too
Grab a cold one and take a long hard look at it, You can figure this out.
I'm not sure what axle you have but if it is a tappered shaft that goes into the axle housing and that is where it is stuck what you have to do is hit the part of the axle housing with a bfh like Vile said. It is a round tappered hole and you have to hit it hard enough to make it eggshaped for a nano-second for it to let go.
Don't give up. Pics of the balljoint in the truck would get you better advice on just exactly what you gotta do.
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i final got a video of the spot
http://www.youtube.com/user/SuperLog1000?feature=mhum#p/a/u/0/SfKNltz8WG0
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You need a ball joint fork or like. Put it right where the rubber boots at on the lower ball joint and beat the end it will pop right out
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You need a ball joint fork or like. Put it right where the rubber boots at on the lower ball joint and beat the end it will pop right out
i are readly did that but it wood not come off
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Like he said, ball joint fork and a BFH and alot of muscle. I've had this problem before too and this is how I got it. Grab a cold one and get mad at it.
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hit that thing with your purse Sally!!!
HAHAHAHAHA
JK!!
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hit that thing with your purse Sally!!!
HAHAHAHAHA
JK!!
i'm under age man
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That video helped allot. Turn the steering knuckle to the side so you can get a good swing at it and hit the bottom of the axle where the balljoint goes through. Using a swing from the side. If your right handed turn the knuckle to the right. The area you want to hit it right above where you put the pickle fork in the video(where the seal is). You need to use a pretty big hammer. Smack it hard and it will fall on the floor. I'll bet you 20.00 that I could walk up with a hammer and that will be on the ground in two hits. The balljoint doesn't come out of the knuckle until you get the knuckle off of the axle.
Also you really need to look at the links I posted earlier. That axle is not like the one in the picture, its a Dana 44 or a 10 bolt Corporate. Maybe get a service manual.
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I replaced the ball joints in my D-44 when I first got it, 17 years ago, & 1 thing I learned was that I was too young & to small to hit that axle hard enough for that to come out. I kept getting a bigger hammer to the point that I could barely swing it. So I called in some bigger arms & just like Sartobuilt said, it was on the floor after 2 really good whacks. I gave my bud 20 bucks & he went to the liquor store. The rest is history.
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Jaysons- Im sure you just loosened it up for him! haha
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I'm sure you can get it with a hammer but its not needed. Get the right tools parts stores will rent them to you. Pay 20 bucks for the tool then once your done return the tool and you get 20 back
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;D
final got it out by heating it up with a torch and raped cooling it down then hitting it with the ball joint tool and a hammer
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That video helped allot. Turn the steering knuckle to the side so you can get a good swing at it and hit the bottom of the axle where the balljoint goes through. Using a swing from the side. If your right handed turn the knuckle to the right. The area you want to hit it right above where you put the pickle fork in the video(where the seal is). You need to use a pretty big hammer. Smack it hard and it will fall on the floor. I'll bet you 20.00 that I could walk up with a hammer and that will be on the ground in two hits. The balljoint doesn't come out of the knuckle until you get the knuckle off of the axle.
Also you really need to look at the links I posted earlier. That axle is not like the one in the picture, its a Dana 44 or a 10 bolt Corporate. Maybe get a service manual.
;D
final done, final got it out by heating it up with a torch and raped cooling it down then hitting it with the ball joint tool and a hammer
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Not so impossible anymore is it....haha Glad you finally got it, We knew you would.
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Just a tip when you cool something down fast like you did it makes it brittle and will stay that size. Next time just heat it cherry red the smack it then let it cool down by its self it will go back to almost the same size
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it was not cherry red it was the same color it was be fore i heated it up
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You mis-read.
Heating it up and rapid cool down causes the metal to get brittle.
To keep it at proper strength, heat it cherry red and let cool down slowly....
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You mis-read.
Heating it up and rapid cool down causes the metal to get brittle.
To keep it at proper strength, heat it cherry red and let cool down slowly....
it finally done/ and my dad applauded me for doing a good job
;D
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Glad you got there in the end dude.
99% of the guys on here have "been there-done that" and have grazed/bruised knuckles to prove it ;D
All we ask is for a good description and maybe a picture or two and you'll get some decent replies.
Knowone likes to be defeated but knowledge & experience comes with age!
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When you see anything resembling red get the torch off of it. Anything else is dangerous. Parts don't stay that size when you quench them. Quenching won't hurt anything if its not hot enough to change colors (unless you do it thousands of times). Please don't heat suspension components up cherry red.
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Not to start anything but when fabricating something you get it cherry red to form it to a shape it will exspand during this process and will contract once it starts to cool. if you were to flash cool something it will become brittle do a search online about it. Heres one about knifes talks about letting a blade air cool vs. oil cool http://www.mastersmith.com/HeatTreating.htm.
After I forge a carbon steel blade to shape, the blade is brought to critical (non-magnetic) in the forge, and allowed to air cool. I do this process twice (normalizing). The blade is again brought up to critical and allowed to cool slowly in Vermiculite. Once the blade is fully annealed (softened) it can be ground, filed, etc. The purpose of normalizing is to remove some of the stresses imparted to the steel during the forging process (ie: heat, forging, etc;). The purpose of annealing is to soften the blade. After annealing the blade is ground from 50 grit to 220 grit. I usually leave the cutting edge a bit heavy so that I can remove any scale formed during the heat-treating process. I put a rosebud tip on my oxyacetalyne torch and heat just the cutting edge of the blade to critical, then quench the whole blade in oil. I will usually repeat this process two or three times depending on the steel used. I then need to temper (soften) the piece. This takes the brittleness from the blade along with imparting toughness. My tempering methods are quite simple.
http://www.engineersedge.com/heat_treat.htm
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I've been a forging engineer for 13 years, so I know exactly what you're talking about. I'm involved in a number of heat treat processes. Knife making is ultra cool in a homemade forge, but I've never really gotten into that. I'm not trying to start a big debate, its just that suspension components are sometimes used as cast/forged, and sometimes quenched and tempered. You really never know unless you check the hardness--and even then you don't know the material and intended properties. If it is a part that was quenched and tempered heating cherry red is well beyond the tempering temperature and will significantly soften the steel and degrade mechanical properties. Heat your knife edge cherry red and slow cool it--it won't hold an edge worth a darn (soft). Full blown cherry red is something like 1500 degrees fahrenheit and just the beginning of red hues are over 1000 degrees. Either case is hot enough to present a risk. My advice is not to apply more heat than necessary as that is much more dangerous than a fast cool at say 500 degrees. If the component was just normalized or as cast/forged, its not as critical although you will induce stress as you can't heat and cool as evenly as can be done in a furnace. With no color change to the steel there is little danger of hurting anything no matter what you do (although a full blown quench would not be a good idea). In industrial heat treating I'm not aware of any repeated quenches followed by a temper--its usually only done once. A double or triple draw (tempering) is beneficial, though. If you want to we can share some notes in a new post. Interested?
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I think we are pretty much on the same page about heating suspension parts, and about the fast cooling. so you’re saying if it’s not hot enough to change color than a rapid quench isn’t really going to hurt. But at the same time the quench really doesn’t do anything to that piece of metal cause it really wasn’t hot enough to change the structure of the metal. Like I said I think we are on the same page but I was more referring to getting something cherry red not just warming it up ;)
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Irish, for what its worth I'm sorry about the soap box. I don't know what got into me. Yes I agree with what you said. I don't know what GM uses on these trucks, but we make some steering knuckles for bigger gm trucks with integral spindle that are quenched and tempered alloys. I wouldn't want to heat that cherry red and take the risk of ruining the heat treatment (softening). For a lot of suspension parts we make, they are 1030 and used as forged. Heating that to 1500 degrees and slow cooling it wouldn't hurt a thing. Sometimes I get carried away. I think its cool as could be that you've done some knife making. If I wasn't sick of messing with hot parts all day I'd like to do that myself.
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My father was a tool and die maker / machinist. He always talked about heat treating, and steel hardness etc. It was my understanding from him that most mild, and cast steel which is what the knuckles, and axle tubes are made of was not adversely affected by heating even to a red color, and letting cool out in the open.
I had an engine block welded in the past. He heated it up cherry red, then welded it with nickle rod, then wrapped it up with a welding blanket to keep it from cooling to fast.
Just my $.02 if its worth anything!! ;D
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I never took any mind to what you said as being offensive but more educational “your experience” like blaz just posted that’s the only way I know anything is by hands on and/or tips and tricks from others.
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If you have to heat the knuckle do it carefully and let it cool naturally in a stable temperature environment. Do not heat moving suspension components or steering linkage.
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This is why I never understood those that heat the coil springs to lower the truck.
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Poor man wanting a lower truck.
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This is why I never understood those that heat the coil springs to lower the truck.
people are too lazy nowadays to use a hacksaw? Lots of work but, I never shied away from work. Of course, now, they have blades for metal for a sawzall or sabre saw (jigsaw). Growing up, I used the time proven elbow grease.
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Is elbow grease available in 500g pots? ;D
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it could be Andy, want us to send you some?
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it could be Andy, want us to send you some?
cheers for the offer but I couldn't afford the shipping!! ;D