73-87chevytrucks.com
General Site Info => General Discussion => Topic started by: JRConnieK10 on February 11, 2011, 08:52:34 pm
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Ok so we take the wife's car out last night for the first time in a while. Its kind of a fair weathered car. So the problem is it has no park lights, dash lights or brake lights. Head lights worked fine high and low beam and turn signals work. Its a 2000 Camaro 3.8 V6 automatic. Looking for some ideas of what the problem could be.
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Test the switch and make sure the fuses are good. If you did recent work on the car, check around those areas to see if a wire got cut or something.
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Check Fuse #14 and see if it's open.
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#14 is the wiper/wash correct? It is good.
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Check over on camarov6.com I had a 98 3.8 v6 camaro and had a similar issue but mine was the headlights themselves quit working but I had everything else workins and all my fuses were good then one day the gauges started jumping around and I heard a buzzing sound and smoke came outa the dash and I traded it in lol. I miss that car though. Anyway sorry I wasn't too helpful but you might wanna try one of the fbody forums like the one I posted it might be a little more helpfull.
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im with beastie on this one. check fuse then check out the switch
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Rear fuse panel.
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Rear fuse panel.
Ok sorry, I didn't now you meant under the hood. Anyway looking at the ones under the hood they are not numbered to where I can determine which is #14. I have the book that shows each panel and what each fuse and relay is but they aren't numbered.
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Sorry JR I was looking at the wiring diagram on my phone, let me double check now that I'm at my computer
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Does the 3rd brake light work?
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Check fuse #5 20A fuse in the instrument panel fuse block. Make sure you check it for B+ on each side of the fuse with a test light. If OK check the headlight switch next.
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Does the 3rd brake light work?
No the third brake light does not work.
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Ok no power to #5 20A fuse. The fuse is good but I replaced with a new one just to be sure and still no power.
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That fuse should be hot at all times. You validated the test light works right? I'm going to go with you did.
If that's the case check the connections in the bus bar inside the i/p fuse box.
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Yes I double checked that I had a good connection the radio fuse was hot and lit the test light but that one wouldn't. Not to sound stupid but what do you mean the bus bar and i/p fuse box? Is that with out the fuse in? I did that too.
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The bus bar is whats behind the plastic in the i/p (instrument panel) fuse box if give one side of the fuse power. What he’s saying is take the fuse out and stick the tester in the both sides to see if the connection is just worn or burnt from a arc try scraping the metal a little bit see if you can make contact
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I/P U/P we all P ;D Yes Instrument Panel Fuse box (the one when you open the drivers door near the gauges)
That fuse in the i/p fuse block is fed from the underhood pdc 40A Maxi fuse I/P 2. If this fuse is good you need to trace this circuit as you have an open circuit. The first place I would look after that is Connector C200B and D. C200B is (18 cavities) Forward lamp to IP harness, between the left kick panel and the steering column and C200D is (48 cavities) Part of the IP harness, between the left kick panel and the steering column.
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Well this is turning out to be a pita, there are 2-40A I/P fuses so I just checked both. And guess what, yep both good. So now on to check the next part you suggested. Thanks to everyone for the advice and help. But did I mention I'm really starting to not like this car.
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LOL - Just think, when you fix it you'll feel great! Find the connector and check the connection. Look at cavity B4 and the wire should be red. Check it for B+ on both sides of the connector.
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How are you making out?
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How are you making out?
Yea about that, Ok playing under the dash is a hoot. I have power to the switch and the thing Im not sure which is the B4 cavity but there is about 4 or 5 red wires coming out Ive got power from most of them but one of them I can't seem to get power from so I quit for now. Im gonna mess with it later
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Take a look at these two schematics.
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F is where you are losing your B+
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If I'm looking at it right it appears the headlights on the same circuit and they work fine the head light switch will also turn them on. It has the automatic type lights that come on with the key. and the dash lights do not work. I'm gonna print those and tackle it again tomorrow. Thank you for yur help' I will let you know how it goes.
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Ok I found what you suggested and your right, no power coming from that wire. I guess next is to figure out why. Everything is wrapped tight nothing has ever been hacked into and I cant see anything that would appear to have moisture.
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So on either side of the connector no B+? Then the problem is from the maxifuse at the power distribution center under the hood to the connector. I would unbolt the PDC and check for chafed, mouse chewed wires etc
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Yea thats kinda what I was leaning toward but just wasn't in the mood to mess with it today. So instead I played with my truck it seems it always gets put on the back burner and I needed to relax and releve stress. So thats what I did. lol. I made an electric fan shroud a few months ago for it had it bent out of aluminum and polished it. Its just been laying around the garage so I did it tonight instead. When I get things how I want it I will put some pics up of it. But it came out sweet. Dual fans with a polished shroud. BLING!!! Vile, thank you for all your help I will let you know how it goes.
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Right on, don't give up and walk away if it frustrates you.
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Ok, so I finally got in the mood to get this thing done. After all the tracking it was so simple. The wire you had me tracing was corroded right under the under hood fuse block. A cut, snip and new end put in the fuse block. All is good. Thanks to every one for the help.
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Glad to hear