73-87chevytrucks.com
73-87 Chevy _ GMC Trucks => 73-87 Chevy & GMC Trucks => Topic started by: txchainsawgogi on February 24, 2011, 12:53:30 pm
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Went out and got a spectre brand timing tab "for chevy 350s". Removed my power steering pump and cleaned some of the grime away.
I don't see a spot for anything to bolt on, except for two small holes to the right. The spacing is off on these holes and don't line up with the tab. Ill try and get a pic.
1978 c10 350 auto.
(http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m612/wolfmantough/2011-02-24125548.jpg)
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should go under 2 of the bolts on your timing cover typically
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(http://www.hotrodders.com/journal_photos/00020668/11436582212.jpg)
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Awesome, finally got it. So f''n cramped! I don't understand WHY ON EARTH the p/o took it off. Now I just need to time it...finally.
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hmm, great. the timing groove isnt lining up within the range of the tab... i actually dont even see it at all. its not helping that the stupid power steering pump is blocking most, if not all of my view of the tab. ideas?
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could it be "a tooth off"? if so how do i even know what direction to lift and turn the distributor? man this is a hassle.
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Make sure you are checking it with the vacuum advance hose disconnected and plugged.
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Make sure you are checking it with the vacuum advance hose disconnected and plugged.
it is plugged, and i cleaned off and chalked up the groove so its easy to see.
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Is the mark on the balancer even close, where you can see it? Try rotating the distributor to bring the mark into view.
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nope, still dont see it haha. i'll try it again tomorrow after work.
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Are you on #1 cyl? When you are on tdc #1 do the marks line up? Spun balancer?
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might be a spun balancer...if so am i pretty much just stuck timing it by ear?
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A new balancer is pretty cheap from autozone if that's the case
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Sounds like you need to go through the process to find true tdc, then make a mark on the balancer, then time it. You'd need a piston stop to find true tdc. And most likely a timing tape installed on the balancer to see where your "all-in" is, and how much total advance you're getting. But it can't be good for harmonics if your balancer is spun.
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I took as old spark plug and drilled out the center so no glass was there. I threaded a bolt into it to use as a piston stop. Make sure your spinning the engine so the #1 is on the compression stroke either by putting the paper wad in the spark plug whole or removing the valve cover and watching the valves. Turn the engine till it hits the stop and mark the balancer at the Zero on the timing gauge. Then turn the engine backwords till the piston hits and mark the balancer there. Then take a flexable ruler and make a mark halfway between those two marks on the balancer and you have a True Zero.
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A piston stop should be soft metal and not interfere with valve movement so be careful making homemade ones. It's not really necessary if you're just checking to see if the balancer mark is close. Just rotate the engine until the rotor is pointing near #1 on the cap. With the number one spark plug out use a coat hanger to touch the top of the piston. Have an assistant slowly turn the crank until the piston is all the way up. The mark on the balancer should line up with zero or the pointer on your timing tab.
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A piston stop should be soft metal and not interfere with valve movement so be careful making homemade ones. It's not really necessary if you're just checking to see if the balancer mark is close. Just rotate the engine until the rotor is pointing near #1 on the cap. With the number one spark plug out use a coat hanger to touch the top of the piston. Have an assistant slowly turn the crank until the piston is all the way up. The mark on the balancer should line up with zero or the pointer on your timing tab.
rotate? ive heard people on here mention using a breaker bar to turn the engine over...i have no idea how to do that. should i do that or use the key to "bump" the engine? dont i have to unplug a wire on my dist if i do that?
Have an assistant slowly turn the crank until the piston is all the way up. The mark on the balancer should line up with zero or the pointer on your timing tab.
i think i get this part. if it doesnt line up then does this mean i have a "spun" balancer? or just that my distributor was set into the engine wrong?
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You can turn the engine usually with 1/2" drive ratchet (5/8 socket i think). Put her in neutral and block the wheels.
If you don't get enough leverage w/ your ratchet, put a small bar on it. It should be easy. Easier still if you take spark plugs out.
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You can turn the engine usually with 1/2" drive ratchet (5/8 socket i think). Put her in neutral and block the wheels.
If you don't get enough leverage w/ your ratchet, put a small bar on it. It should be easy. Easier still if you take spark plugs out.
haha this sounds stupid but, where do i even put the ratchet? i've got a super long handled ratchet for good leverage.
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there is a 5/8" bolt in the middle of the crank pulley for your fan belt. you'll need about a 3 or 4 inch extension, not too long though because your radiator is there. Turn it clockwise.
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Now see, had you put in a piston stop and bumped the key you could have ruined your engine.
Just turn it over manually by rotating the crankshaft bolt like SGTDEL said or turn it by the flexplate and your distributor position has nothing to do with mechanical timing.