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73-87 Chevy _ GMC Trucks => Brakes, Frame, Steering & Suspension => Brakes and Braking Systems => Topic started by: 1982 Daily Driver on March 17, 2011, 06:41:48 pm
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Has anyone done a drum to disc conversion on 1982 truck. If so what are some pros & cons. Also do I need to put in an adjustable proportioning valve. Thanks
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search it on here. there is a company that sells the parts, and someone has done it on here.
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There are many ways of doing it but make sure you are doing it for the right reason and if you are running 15" wheels you will most likely need new wheels. You will need to eliminate the factory combination valve and use a proportioning valve. An adjustable one would be ideal to help you dial it in and prevent rear wheel lock up.
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Vile the wheels aren't a problem 18". Doing it for looks. Wasn't sure about valve. Thanks
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Im running rear discs on my truck.I had to eliminate the E brake cause the setup is for a 1994-1996 SS impala.And the impala Ebrakes sat inside the rotor,but since the bolt assembly is to large on our trucks the setup wont work.But its all good cause this truck wont be parking on any hillsides.
thanks
Pat
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Pat, what size wheels are you running?
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20x10
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Well bought the conversion kit. $550. Will be here on Wednesday I'll let everyone know how it goes.
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Props to you if you make a detailed DIY post with lots of pics.
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Props to you if you make a detailed DIY post with lots of pics.
I second that motion ;D
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Well this is the kit that came today, should start next week I hope to keep everyone posted with plenty of pictures. Can't wait to start.
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Where'd you get the kit from? I pieces parts'd mine together
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The company is called The Right Stuff Detailing.
http://www.getdiscbrakes.com/RightStuff/
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Well I got Everything to get started. 1 gallon of diff. Oil, 2 quarts of brake fluid, rear diff gasket and a can of liquid wrench. I hope to start tomorrow. If anyone can think of anything else let me know. Thanks
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I finished installing the brakes yesterday, now that I'm done it wasn't to bad. The kit didn't come with to many directions but still wasn't bad. I started getting by getting the truck off the ground and draining the rear end and spraying all the bolts with liquid wrench.
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Once I got the diff. drained I took the bolt out holding the pin and removed the pin. Then I pushed the axles in so I could remove the "C" clips. Then the axles slid right out.
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Next I removed the 4 bolts holding the drum assembly to the axle, removed the brake line and emergency brake cable so I could remove everything in 1 piece.
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Next I stuck a rag in the end of the axle to keep the dirt out while I cleaned the axle flange. I also counted the teeth on my ring and pinion gear to make sure what rear end I had. Well it's getting late here and I have to work in the morning so I try to finish tomorrow night.
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OK now that I got everything cleaned up I tested to make sure everything fit before I modified the kit. The pictures slowed down a little bit, was starting to get pretty tired. The mounting brackets were not exactly right only two bolts would work so I used the two outside bolts and drilled the center bolt to make it work. Now I Installed the axles so I could mount the caliper. The inside brake shoe was hitting the rotor so I had to remove the caliper and the bracket so I could grind about 1/8" off the spacers welded to the bracket. I didn't have to remove the axles because their was enough room to remove the bracket without removing the axle. It also helps to put 2 or 3 lugnuts on to hold the rotor in place.
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Now that everything was fitting pretty good I took everything off and painted the brackets black and the calipers red. Didn't buy any special paint or anything been using regular paint on the front calipers and it holds up perfect. Since I was waiting on paint to dry I went to the parts store and bought new axle seals and replaced them since I had everything apart. Also recruited a little help which is priceless.
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Next all the paint was dry and I reinstalled everything. The brackets, calipers,axles and the Diff. cover and filled the rear end with grease.
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One more trip to the parts store. I needed to shorten the brake line between the splitter and each caliper. So I bought 1 12" and 1 20" piece of brake line. Also the adjusting valve needed to be installed somewhere so I went down the passenger side frame rail to where the front piece is connected to the rear piece and decided to place it there I needed two fittings because the adjusting valve fittings where smaller then the brake line but no problem the fittings were only $1.38. When I got home did some crud tube bending not my specialty but it works. Then I split the line to add the adjusting valve and installed it.
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Almost done, had to set the emergency break very easy just push in the pedal and release a couple times until you fill it locking the wheels. Then fill the master cylinder with brake fluid and start bleeding the brakes starting at the passenger side rear wheel making sure to keep checking the brake fluid level in the master cylinder. After the brakes were bled and working I turned the adjusting valve all the way out to decrease the pressure to the rear wheels making a mark on the handwheel with a metal marker to make it easier to adjust. Next I took the truck for a test drive stopping several times and turning the adjusting valve in 1/2 a turn until it felt comfortable stopping. I really want to wait until the roads are wet to really set them because if the rear wheels are going to lock up thats when it will be. Well I think thats about it I hope this helps someone. Total in the project is less then $600 I think it looks pretty good the calipers and rotors are off the 80-85 Caddie so replacements shouldn't be bad. Also the kit says you have to be running at least 15" rims but I think that might be a little close. I'm running 18" rims. If I can help anyone just let me know. :)