73-87chevytrucks.com
73-87 Chevy _ GMC Trucks => Engine/Drivetrain => Topic started by: screamin86 on March 23, 2011, 11:13:04 pm
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Alright I hate to sound like a noob but I've never had to replace the rear brakes on a car with drums and when I took my truck to get inspected that's what's preventing it from passing. I bought the parts for $20 and advanced but need to know in a nutshell what I'm doing! Lol any advice? I need to get it done by saturday if I can if not I have to pay another $16.
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Remove both sides (wheels and drums). then use one side to compare when you put it back together. One side at a time.
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Yes, definitely one side at a time. It's not absolutely required, but it's very helpful to have the spring pliers and the driver to remove the round retainers that go on the pins holding the shoes to the backing plate. Throw some wheel cylinders in it if they leak, and if you don't put new drums on it, at least have your old ones turned if they are still within tolerance.
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Don't forget to make sure the self adjuster works and adjust the brakes properly too.
Always do one side at a time like said before unless you do alot of brake work.
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So did you get it back together in time and did it pass ?
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Same as previously stated. Did you get brake shoes, and new hardware for $20? That sounds way cheap!
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Unfortunately no with me being schedualed for more overtime at work took my time I needed to do the brakes so I'm gona have to speand another $16 :/ I think they need to extend the rejection period to 30days but anyway. I got the parts from advanced auto was like 19.99 and $8 core.
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They charge you for re inspecting? In N.H. its pay the first time pass or fail. If you fix whats wrong as long as it hasn't been enough time to re register you just got show that you have made the repairs and you get you sticker.
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In Va, they give you 30 days to ride w/ a pink rejection sticker on the windshield. Get things fixed, you pay $1 to get those items reinspected.
When working w/ drum shoes, it is easier w/ that special drum tool that you apply to the top peg and turn and the spring comes off. I usually use needle nose pliers those. It really is easy working on them, though I prefer working on disc brakes. Springs are the only things that keep shoes in place and keep them able to float around inside the drum, but intact. Just do as advised here, do one side at a time to compare the other side while working. Use jack stands!
Ensure you put the right brake shoe in the right place. The primary shoe (less lining) goes toward front of vehicle. The shoe w/ more lining is the secondary and goes on rear side.
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On the back of the rejection sticker it says 15 days :/
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get to know a shop well, they'll usually reinspect without paying again if you make friends w/ someone. I know a guy really well whom i trust and he isn't strict on that stuff. But your'e right, it is 15 days now that i think about it.
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well the shop i used to go to got in trouble a few times and got extreamly strict and i started to go to this one and they have been good ive taken stuff to them for a few years and this was the first time ive ever had them put anything on a lift. he did ask me about my converter when it was up there though. its one of those ebay thunderbolt cats without a heatshield it really looks nothing like a cat but it is i had it clog sometime back and had to hog it out lol.
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In arizona, you get to pay 20 for the first one and you get one retest. Instead, I registered my truck at my great uncles address up in globe, where emissions isnt required due to small population. I had my dad put my truck in his name, and the inaurance is under his policy, and its insured under globes insurance rates. It costs me 20 bucks a year to register with no emissions and 12 dollars a month to insure it. If it was insure under my name, it would cost me 300 a month because im 17.
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Thats funny, I've got my 74 registered at my sisters place up in globe, my insurance is more because of a rough driving record.