73-87chevytrucks.com
73-87 Chevy _ GMC Trucks => Engine/Drivetrain => Topic started by: choptop on April 22, 2011, 07:30:45 pm
-
I have been waiting patiently for this time to come. My ex cabs are all registered as antique now, so no more inspections. Its time to give the emissions crap a new home (trash can or future need shelf, Im undecided) Now I can clean up the engine bay to my likings.
Its an 86 GMC so I have one of the elctroninic carbs that I guess I get to replace. I think I have a replacement one off of a 79 400 with a broke timing chain.
I havent looked yet, but that probably goes for the distributer as well.
One question I have is I notice the vacuum line for my convertor lockup is not connected. WHich port on the carb is this supposed to go to?
Im just gonna unhook the egr for now.
Should I try to save the A.I.R. tubes that go to the exhaust manifolds, or are they easy enough to get and I shouldnt waste my time trying to save them?
What is the best thing to plug the holes in the exhaust manifolds?
Im gonna document this the best I can just so I can answer questions for anyone else in the future.
-
I bought a package of chrome plugs from pep boys for like 6 bucks. It has 2 of like 4 different sizes. I think they were in the same section as the intakes but it might have been somewhere else. Be sure to use teflon tape on them so they dont leak.
-
One question I have is I notice the vacuum line for my convertor lockup is not connected. WHich port on the carb is this supposed to go to?
From what I understand, the low vacuum switch should be hooked up to any full manifold vacuum source.
There are lots of members that may need some components to meet testing standards. Before you trash them I would post them up for sale and see if there are any takers. Agreed with klauss on the standard pipe plugs for the manifolds.
Happy day indeed ;D
-
I would use brass pipe plugs. That way if you ever decide to take them out, they will come out!
-
I would use brass pipe plugs. That way if you ever decide to take them out, they will come out!
I've used brass pipe plugs before too. They worked fine, they were cheap, and didn't leak. I'd be surprised if teflon tape holds up on an exhaust manifold.
-
Ok, so far so good. I have a few questions just to make sure I understand right. I searched for the answers but the number of 'rabbit trails' the conversations took kinda got confusing.
The first ne is verifying this switch is for the torque convertor lockup, and that I am tying the vacuum line to intake manifold vaccuum, correct?
(http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh203/choptop76/smog%20removal/SANY0199.jpg)
The switch in the top left corner of this pic is the ESC tip in switch which I can make disappear and hide the wires in the harness.
(http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh203/choptop76/smog%20removal/SANY0201.jpg)
The last switxh that I am unsure of is the one on the rear of the right valve cover. It had two vacuum lines going to it.
-
better pic
-
Not really sure what you are trying to point out? If you are trying to ID all of your components compare them to the schematic.
http://forum.73-87chevytrucks.com/smforum/index.php?topic=18143.msg144957#msg144957
-
Sorry, Im just trying to make sure Im on the right path with what Im trying to do.
In the pic with the yellow circle, am I correct in the fact that it is the ESC tip in switch that I can remove. The vacuum switch in the red circle is one that I am not sure of what it is wand what to do with it.
And last I want to verify that the vacuum switch above the brake booster is the lockup switch for the torque converter and i run the vacuum lime to the intake for its vacuum supply. The link you showed me show the wiring for the heater/a/c controls.
I was looking at the schematics earlier but could find what I was looking for. Not saying it wasnt there, I just couldnt see it.
On my way now to rebuild a carb for it to get rid of the electronic solenoid carb, and rewire the ESC distributer to convert it to a normal one. Then cleanup and paint.
-
Not to hijack the thread but do any of these components help with the gas mileage aspects of how they were originally designed or was it all to meet emission numbers?
-
To the best of my knowledge, it was mostly emissions. Everything was in order on mine, even the pump worked good, I just didnt like the looks under there. Just changing the plugs was a challenge due to all the junk in the way.
So far, Ive removed the air tubes, air pump with all its brackets, and the related hoses. I did the ESC distributer modification so it would work without the ESC module, and rebuilt an earlier Qjet to get rid of the electronic solenoid on the carb. Removed the tip in vacuum switch and just that ugly thing being gone helped. Still need to hook up the TCC switch, and figure how Im gonna route the lines to the charcoal canister.
I took it for a little spin earlier, and it ran great I havent even checked the timing yet. It hasnt ran that well in quite a while. Plugs and wires are on the list as well, but so far everythings been an improvement. When I started, it didnt even want to pull itself onto the shop.
-
Did you actually register it as an antique or is it just 25 years old now? Antique ya ain't supposed to be driving it around too much.
-
Its registered.Antique. The thing is I don't get to drive them as much as Id like. My work schedule is hectic, but I can drive to church or the occasional cruise without paying $70+ a year for registration. The don't want you using them for everyday use, only special events. They don't clarrify what a special event is, so unless people start abusing it by using Antique plates on daily drivers, I think Ill be ok. Later when I start using the extended crewcab to tow the others, I will be going back to regular plates.