73-87chevytrucks.com
73-87 Chevy _ GMC Trucks => Brakes, Frame, Steering & Suspension => Topic started by: Skunksmash on May 01, 2011, 06:50:24 pm
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I've been wanting to rebuild my steering box, but how hard is it? The truck has too much play in the wheel before it engages and actually starts steering. Especially at highway speeds. It feels like you have to turn the wheel about 4 or 5 inches before you actually get any response from the front wheels. So I was wondering if anyone here has ever rebuilt their steering box, and how hard it was to do.
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It has been said that it is difficult to do, but can be done. Compare the price of a rebuild kit and a new box and decide for yourself which way to go. If you do rebuild it, we would love a detailed "how to".
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What makes you think it's in the gear box? 4-5" of play will not be because of the gear box.
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You should make sure the shaft going in is turning and the shaft coming out is not turning before tearing into steering gear box, at least that way you will know if it is the steering box or not.
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What makes you think it's in the gear box? 4-5" of play will not be because of the gear box.
What would you recommend that I take a look at instead? Nothing else seems excessively worn, though I'm certainly no expert. I'd be happy to hear any advice on what else causes loose steering.
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do what bake said
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Use the search terms "dry park check" and you'll find several explanations.
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Use the search terms "dry park check" and you'll find several explanations.
Maybe he's recompiled the search since then?
http://forum.73-87chevytrucks.com/smforum/index.php?action=search2
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I just bought a reman box for my 1 ton from NAPA for $160 bucks with a $100 something core.
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Yeah they're not too awful pricey. Could be worse. The reman kit looks like its mostly just a bunch of seals, but I'm wondering if you need a press or anything to get it apart. Probly a lot better off to just buy a reman.
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Use the search terms "dry park check" and you'll find several explanations.
Maybe he's recompiled the search since then?
http://forum.73-87chevytrucks.com/smforum/index.php?action=search2
What do you mean?
http://forum.73-87chevytrucks.com/smforum/index.php?topic=6945.0
http://forum.73-87chevytrucks.com/smforum/index.php?topic=6706.0
http://forum.73-87chevytrucks.com/smforum/index.php?topic=14609.0
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I guess I mean I suck at searching ;D
Thanks for the links man they explained a lot. But um, if it comes down to it... how big a job is it to replace the steering box? Is it something a shade tree mechanic like myself could do?
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I dont think it looks too hard. More of an inconvenience because the bolts, well on mine anyway, are kinda hidden. But its only 3 or 4. unhook fluid lines, disconnect the rag joint and you should be done. Might get more room if you take out the inner fender, but dont think its necessary.
When it is out, be sure to check the frame for cracks. They are very prone to cracking right there.
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Cool thanks I'll do that. Mine isn't a 4x4 so maybe I'll get lucky in that department. First chance I can make the wife help me with the "Dry park check", I will. And then I'll report back and say what I found out.
I think the screw on the top for adjusting the gears positions is an allen wrench though.
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its either allen or flat tip. im not sure, mine is caked with dirt.
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The hardest part is bleeding after to make sure the air is all out. The removal and install is pretty easy.
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even that is not hard. You dont get dirty bleeding it!
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Don't forget a pitman arm puller.
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Don't forget a pitman arm puller.
Think a tie rod puller can be substituted for that? I have that, and they seem to look the same. Unless the pitman arm one is bigger or something.
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pitman arm is bigger, but only you can see if it will work. Go to autozone or Oreilleys to rent the correct tool for free.
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Thought I might need to make a correction here:
Its not 4 or 5 inches of play in the loose steering. Its only about 2 inches, maybe 2.5 inches tops. Thought that might be relevant since vilezamb said that 4 or 5 inches wouldn't likely be related to the steering box. Maybe I'll get lucky and all I have to do is tighten that little screw. I'm going to make the wife help with the dry park check today so I'll report back what I find in a couple hours.
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Had the wife do the check. Its the pitman arm. Problem solved. Unless replacing the pitman arm only takes out some of the slack. But it looks like its got at least an inch of slack just coming from the pitman arm's little socket joint.
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Let us know if that fixed it after you replaced it.
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Hmm what is the best way to make sure the new pitman arm goes on, in the exact same position that the old one came off? You know, so you can make sure that your steering wheel isn't cockeyed when you're driving in a straight line.
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I believe the shaft on the steering box has a spot where there are no teeth, so it only lines up one way. If not, then just mark it.
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They are master splined however make a witness mark on the old to compare to the new.
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Yeah they were master splined, so I just lined em up and installed the new pitman arm. Of course even though I moved nothing, the steering wheel now sits like I'm turning right, even though I'm going straight. I couldn't have moved anything, I did not have a lift the truck was on the ground. So I would have had to be physically strong enough to turn the wheels by wrenching around under there. Which of course I'm not.
As for results, it was a partial success. It took about 1 inch of slop out of the steering, but unfortunately roughly 1" to 1.5"i still remains. Guess I'll do another dry park check and see if I can spot anything else. The old pitman arm was definitely bad though, seeing as how it would just flop around freely when you shook it, and I couldn't move the new one at all. But uh, I don't recognize some of the stuff I'm seeing under there. The tie rod ends have some kind of... sleeve on them with little bolts. And the center link has some kind of weird joint in it. Does that joint go bad somehow too? I probly just need to rebuild the whole steering with all new moog. Anyone got a list of the wear parts? I'll just start ordering and replacing cause it all looks like its got a little slack in it. Some of it has broke rubber boots too.
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Is this 2 or 4wd?
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Its a two wheel drive.
As for wear parts under there, maybe you can tell me if I left anything out:
1. Inner and outer tie rods
2. Pitman arm
3. Idler arm
4. Center link/s? Looks like its got some type of little ball and socket... stuff on the center link. Not real sure though. Anything else that wears out that could make the steering loose? When the wife gets time again I'm going to recheck. I want to make sure I check it all. That loose steering has got to go! lol
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Yes the suspension parts, ball joints, wheel bearings, loose frame rivets/cracked frame, loose gear box, steering coupler issue, control arms, bushings etc.
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Dang. The list goes on and on. Wheel bearings? Never thought of that one. Can't you tell if those are bad by jacking up the vehicle and sort of shaking the wheel?
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Jack up the vehicle and rock the tire at 6 and 12 o'clock. If you note any play and verify it's not in the ball joints or observe the play in the hub only (ie brake rotor is moving laterally) then you have play in the bearings.
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Nice info. So rocking it at 6 and 12 o'clock is for wheel bearings, and rocking it at 9 and 3 o'clock is for tie rods. That sound right? Trying to learn stuff.
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pretty much, but it could be something else besides tie rods: pretty much anything else in the steering system. if you have play when rocking at 9 and 3, have someone else look around at all the components for movement.
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Use the search terms "dry park check" and you'll find several explanations.
Maybe he's recompiled the search since then?
http://forum.73-87chevytrucks.com/smforum/index.php?action=search2
What do you mean?
http://forum.73-87chevytrucks.com/smforum/index.php?topic=6945.0
http://forum.73-87chevytrucks.com/smforum/index.php?topic=6706.0
http://forum.73-87chevytrucks.com/smforum/index.php?topic=14609.0
This is interesting....i was looking at these posts and the one with the pics of the truck showing the "not so sharp" turned wheels reminds me of my truck. Pretty much the same amount of max wheel turn.
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Alright well, I'll tell ya this: Its way better just to go buy a reman unit from the auto parts store. I saw what all is involved in rebuilding the steering box. Not worth it unless you're already good at rebuilding stuff like that.
I am curious though. What kind of oil goes in the steering box? Just 90w or something like differential oil?
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It wouldnt be power steering fluid?
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In the box itself? I'm not sure.
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When they rebuilt one on Powerblock, they didnt add anything besides a little grease to hold the ball bearings in while assembling it. I figure its just PS fluid.
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I saw that same rebuild......i dont think its difficult but like he said if you havent done it a few times i guess it could be a lil confusing. I try to find old extra stuff like that or used the old parts of what i replace to experiment...unfortunately i dont have a steering box. Even though i plan to get a reman one i would love to have an old to mess around with.
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That is the one I saw. A lot of steps just for a steering box. If I had a rebuild manual on hand, I'd be happy to try it. But its not likely I'd even be able to find one anywhere.
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If I were to lay money down for a reman box, Id attempt to rebuild one first to try and save $ and for the experience.