73-87chevytrucks.com
73-87 Chevy _ GMC Trucks => Performance => Topic started by: GUITAR1989 on May 22, 2011, 04:25:58 am
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Hey guys I was planning on doing a vortec swap and Ive come to realise...its going to cost a pretty penny if I buy new heads. I figured Id give rebuilding some a shot to cut down the project cost. This will be my first rebuild and im honestly pretty excited to take the project on. Are heads hard to rebuild? I feal like a fish out of water on this one guys :o Some information and inspiration would be much appreciated. Maybe a good book to start with would get my gears turning :)
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Unless you have access to a machine shop, YOU don't rebuild heads. Beyond new springs, stem seals & maybe a light lapping for a minor flaw there isn't much the average guy in his garage can do. Depending on what is wrong with the heads your wanting to use...they may need new guides installed & likely a regrind on the valves & seats. They should be checked for cracks & the deck checked for flatness.
Between the cost of machine shop labor & the needed parts, it's hardly worth re-doing an average (our years of original heads) pair of heads unless...you have an angle. As in, know the instructor at the local vo-tech or something.
The Vortec heads are GREAT for what they are, however they may not always be the "best bang for the buck". If you already have, say a Performer RPM intake & maybe roller tipped rockers, the added cost for a new intake, then either studs & guideplates so you can use the rockers or get self-aligning ones...you may as well buy a pair of performance "traditional" heads & re-use the "goodies" you already have. My Two Cents, Lorne
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I bought a set of vortech heads for 125 not rebuilt but good enough to run(had them rebuilt). My only additional cost was the differance between the cost of the vortech intake vs the regular aftermarket. I used the rockers from the vortech heads as they are self aligning. You will need a macine shops services, also it's always a good idea to go with a little heavier spring than stock.
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yeah if i could find some used ones that are still good to run that would rock :)
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You don't need a machine shop to do a lot of work on heads, but you will need some special tools. If you find a set of good vortec heads, you probably won't need to do much to them anyways. Another option is www.Patriot-Performance.com They have pretty good prices on vortec heads.
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yeah if i could find some used ones that are still good to run that would rock :)
At a minimum have a machine shop take a look at them and check them for cracks, condition etc.
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Hey guys :) Ive been looking into this vortec head build alot...Im still open to buy a decent set of GM's if the opprotunity comes up but as for building some ive decided to go with http://www.racingheadservice.com/Information/Technical/Heads/TechSheets/12407_IS.pdf
Im going to be getting them bare and assembling them to hopefully save some money also ill be proud to say I built those :) They come with the machineing for larger springs, screw in studs, and i think they can even use a normal intake manifold.
heres the things ive got lined up for the build so far....
http://www.competitionproducts.com/RHS-Cast-Iron-Chev-SB-Vortec-Head-170cc_64cc-Bare-Each/productinfo/RHS12407/ 248.97$ x2
http://www.competitionproducts.com/Head-Improvement-Kit-Chev-SB-w_194-150-Valves-Hyd-FT/productinfo/8511/
109.95$
http://www.competitionproducts.com/Manley-Guide-Plates-Chev-SB-5_16-Raised/productinfo/42151-8/
21.99$
http://www.competitionproducts.com/ARP-High-Perf-Rocker-Arm-Stud-Kit-Chev-SB-Pontiac-V8/productinfo/134-7101/
38.99$
Im still doing research on NSA roller rockers I can use with the vortecs cause it seems like alot of them have clearance issues :( any input is verry appreciated :)
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I would say there is a fair probability that you will need to take the heads & valves to a machine shop to have a finished valve job done...you will want to vacuum check the seal on the valve seats before installing the heads at least.
There is another post or Two about those heads (I believe) on here with some intake manifold concerns, check them out before "you pull the trigger" to be sure you understand your options. Lorne
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Will do man..im doing quite a bit of research on em b4 i buy anything...I actually dont even have the money yet so I have time to learn more :)
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You can buy assembled vortec heads quite reasonable. I would not buy a vortech head that claims you can bolt on an older style intake, just buy a vortech intake and save yourself a huge potential head ache(a vortech head is taller than an older style intake and bolts up different).
Just my opinion
You are at over 400 so I am sure you can just buy them assembled or buy a set and have them rebuilt.
On my engine I didn't want the old truck heads. So I went with the vortech heads(#062). (my engine was in the machine shop) so I needed to buy a set of heads anyway. I guess what i am getting at is to keep it simple buy vortech heads and a vortech intake because you know they will match up. You can use the stock vortech engine rockers as they are self aligning.
This is what I run with a mild cam and flat top pistons.
My heads are stock including valves, rockers and studs except for heavier springs and a radius grind on the valve seat
my engine dynos at 393hp @5400 rpm and 432tq
I have no interference problems etc
and this is a great daily driver or street engine
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sounds like a stout setup man.
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@1980c10 "I would not buy a vortech head that claims you can bolt on an older style intake, just buy a vortech intake and save yourself a huge potential head ache(a vortech head is taller than an older style intake and bolts up different).
Just my opinion"
Because of the port height I would need Felpro 1206 gaskets and minimum, an Edelbroke Air-Gap to cover the port. I will have to port match the manifold at the top of the port but there is plenty of material.
Yeah it seems like it would be a pain to try and use the regular intake :(
Like I said id gladly use some GM Vortecs if I come across some good ones. I just want to tap into that sweet vortec power and fuel economy man :) I just want a fun Daily Driver nothing to crazy but I would like more power than I have now. Is there any way to find out what cam I have? Like something i can measure? If my cam is small enough for stock vortecs id gladly just slap some on there x)
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I believe you are good up to .050 lift with a stock vortech If you have more than this it would be a pretty big cam. many companies make a good stock replacement vortech; engine quest and gm performance parts both make them. on a stock version try to find casting #062. I'm not sure how you could measure the cam without removing it.