73-87chevytrucks.com
73-87 Chevy _ GMC Trucks => 4 Wheel Drives => Topic started by: 1979C20 on May 25, 2011, 07:44:42 pm
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Im getting a 79 blazer next week. I would like to lift it and ive found a few sets of 6 inch rear lift springs on craislist. I asked my dad if I could use rears on the front of my truck and he says the fronts have extra spring(s) for the added weight of the engine. And he said I could use rears on the front with an add a leaf ao they dont sag. Is this correct?
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Anybody have any insight or opinions?
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I'm not going to say no right off the bat, but... If they are 52" springs you may be able to use them, but you will need a kit to relocate the hangers. http://diy4x.com has a kit for stock rear 52" springs called "Beyond 52's". You could call them to see if it would work with your springs. Good luck :)
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i think when i had my 6" front and rear springs side by side the rears where a couple inches longer than the front
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So, if the springs were a bit longer than the front, would that put more arch in them and make the lift higher?
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it might make them sit farther back cause of this would be sitting on the frame rail instead of sitting on the shackels
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Okay. And would that cause any problems?
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wear, maybe a little bit bumpy ride
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Wear on what components?
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springs&frame rail
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i guess you could redrill the shackel hole but be true with it so it won’t mess your alignment up. But it prob will increase you pinion angle a little bit
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Okay. Sounds good. Ill have to keep looking. Thats how i found the blazer! I saw a full 4in lift kit.on clist for like 350. So im sure ill.find a decent deal some time.
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remember you also need shocks something to drop the steering and brake lines
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Yeah. I was going to try and buy it piece by piece. I found a drop steering arm for 10 bucks, i was planning on replacing the shocks anyway, and ill find the brake lines when the time comes. Thanks for the help irish.
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you need a raised steering arm, not a dropped one. Or you can get a dropped pitman arm...they also make a Z shaped drag link.
I have a 6 in lift and I have a raised steering arm, dropped pitman arm, and stock drag link. Works perfectly. I also have SS brake lines, dropped T case, and dropped sway bar brackets. All I need to do is lower the rear most parking brake cable brackets, I dont like how the cable has a harsh angle.
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Beastie, i guess i was combining the two. What do you mean by SS brake lines? Did you HAVE to clock the tcase? And do you have axle shims for the pinion angle?
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ss stainless steel. i didnt clock my tcase and the shims i used came with the springs
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Stainless steel braided right? If i were to get the 6in lift springs, how long would i need to extend the brake lines, do i only need to extend the fronts or the rears too? How much do i need to shim the axle for the pinion angle? Where can i buy longer shocks? Do i need to clock/drop my tcase? Will i need to lengthen my drive shafts? Will a raised stwering are or a drop pitman arm work, or do i need both? What size tires can i clear without rubbing? What size tires can i safely run with a 10 bolt front, 12 bolt rear? Sorry for all the questions, just trying to be prepared. Other than what i listed, is there anything else i need?
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well what are your plans after the lift? how do you plan on using the truck?
with 6" lift your brake lines will be tight. you can run the regular line but have to a remove the brake lines from the brace so they are kind of just hanging or b make longer brake line brackets. the rear is only one line i think its ok with out any mods but i would op for the braded lines anyway. don’t worry about shimming with 6" or less everything will be on the springs ready to go. any parts store should be able to get lifted shocks but you can go to rough county http://roughcountry.com/shocks-stabilizers.htm. again with anything 6"or less you don’t need to lengthen the drive shaft with the 6" the front will be pushed to the max so you can get one longer if you want it to last awhile. i had mine custom made. took a front driveshaft off another trans (i have a sm465 think it came off a th350) and cut it down to fit where the stock ride would be at. About the arms either will work you don’t need both but you can op for it but you probably will see more of a higher price. With 6" i think we agree that 35's with clear and 38's with 3" body lift. you don’t want to run anything bigger than 38's on the road or with the 10 bolt ive seen it done just aint the smartest due to safety reasons.
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So, all i will need with a 6in lift is the springs, shocks, raised steering arm or drop pitman, and braided brake lines? And, im only planning mild offroading, and mud bogs every now and again.
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http://roughcountry.com/chevy_4wd_77-87_6.html heres a kit to use when you are looking for parts
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ss stainless steel. i didnt clock my tcase and the shims i used came with the springs
This, but to add, I didnt clock the T case, I lowered the cross member a inch.
Stainless steel braided right? If i were to get the 6in lift springs, how long would i need to extend the brake lines, do i only need to extend the fronts or the rears too? How much do i need to shim the axle for the pinion angle? Where can i buy longer shocks? Do i need to clock/drop my tcase? Will i need to lengthen my drive shafts? Will a raised stwering are or a drop pitman arm work, or do i need both? What size tires can i clear without rubbing? What size tires can i safely run with a 10 bolt front, 12 bolt rear? Sorry for all the questions, just trying to be prepared. Other than what i listed, is there anything else i need?
The brake line packaging say what lift kits they are for. No need to measure them. I extended all 3, but some just lower the rear brake line bracket. Shims come included. Shocks can come included, be sure to check when you buy the kit. As for the steering parts, one is better than none, but a combination of two is best. a 6 inch will clear 35s without trimming. Tire size vs breaking stuff depends on how heavy your foot is and what you will be using it for. I run 33s and wheel in sand, a little mud and snow. No problems.
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Okay, thanks for all of the help. Id love the buy a new kit, but that costs almost as much as the blazer itself.
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Why are you putting a 6" lift on it? What size tires are you running?
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I was asking about a 6 inch lift because i found a few sets of.springs on craigslist for like 40 bucks a pair. And i dont know what size tires. But i want to lift it and then have quite some room for the tires to flex because some hills im thinking about going.on have tire eating holes and I dont want to fall in a hole and not have enough suspension flex and destroy one of my fenders(slight overexageration). Im looking for functionality and i want it to look good.
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think some on here say go with a shackle flip kit it will give you more flex but i would worry about stock drive shaft it you want to flex that much for the front at least
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I dont mean nassive amounts of flex. Just enough to not rip up ny fenders. Im not looking for like 38 onches of travel or anything. Haha
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what tires you going to run?
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Im thinking 35's. They look good with 6 inch lift and 35's
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they would prob be close
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My friend thad has a 79 k10 and he has a 6 inch lift with 35's and the only rub on his inner rear wheel well because of his wheel backspacing. Hes using stock brake lines in their stock positions too, but theyre tight. So, 56" stock rear springs used on the front will give 3-4"s of lift after sagging. So, 6" lift rear 56" springs on the front will equal about 10"s after sagging? And then 6" springs anf 3-4" blocks will level it, maybe?
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Does anyone know how far forward i need to move the front spring hanger? And i have to move the spring perches on the axle too, right because i have to move the spring hangers to the frame?
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you would have to keep the axle center so you would have to move them both front and rear and then you would have to see what the difference it might now be as easy and re-drilling holes since the hole might be close to the old holes then you have to worry about how far forward the front goes it might be weaker idk i would measure a 6" lift front spring that has been used and compare it to the rear spring that has been used then split that up and see where everything sits