73-87chevytrucks.com
73-87 Chevy _ GMC Trucks => Body, Glass & Paint => Topic started by: PromiseKeeper on June 03, 2011, 12:38:45 pm
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Have any of you sprayed the underside of your truck with used motor oil as a rust inhibitor? What kind of sprayer works best? Thanks!
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I haven't, but have heard of people using bar and chain oil through the winter months on plow trucks. A spayer that would work would be a sprayer used for (concrete) form oil.
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I had an old Ford F150 with a 5.0L that the rear main was out. It coated everything real nice, even the rear end. It wasn't rusty at all underneath
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you can use a pesticide or weed killer sprayer. Pump it up and pull the trigger, pretty cheap too.
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I use a rocker shutz gun with a hose into a 5 gallon bucket. I made a couple adaptores out of 3/8" brake tubing that thread right into the front of the gun. Set the regulator about 20 to 30 PSI. I have mixed 1 gallon of bar, and chain oil to 4 gallons of waste oil but have also just used waste oil. I spray inside the doors, fenders, cab corners etc. too.
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There's better ways of rustproofing
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Transmission fluid sprayed into the rustproofing holes is also pretty common.
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You don't want to use ATF it will eat all your rubber bushings.
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I notice most of you guys are up north where you see a lot of salt, snow etc. so I understand your concern. I would think that spraying oil on the bottom of a vehicle would be a magnet for stuff to stick it, making it real hard to keep clean. I have to agree there are better methods to prevent corrosion.
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Vile,
Would you please tell me about them? Thanks!
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If your driving it in the winter keeping the salt from getting into the crevices etc. is more important than keeping it looking clean. When i spray a rig I then drive it up and down every dusty dirt road around. Dust sticks to the oil, and forms a nice cake like coating.
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Use body shutz
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Mine leaks enough atf and motor oil no further coating is needed. ;D
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I understand that shutz is good stuff....then I saw the price! I know...you get what you pay for, but paying for it is the problem!
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You can't beat oil for older vehicles that already have dust in the seams & tight areas, it's thin enough to run down in & turn the dust into oily mud where as the commercial "rustproofing" bridges the gap never getting to where it's really needed. Also oil doesn't care if the inside of the panel is clean where a regular rustproofing won't stick.
I use a regular pistol squirt can to put the oil inside the panels...they have enough pressure to squirt to the other end of the panel & can be stuck in a rather small hole.
I "recycle" the oil every time I change it...take 4 1/2 quarts out & put 1 1/2 back in the body ;) Makes the wife crazy that the bottom areas are smudged with Black goo, but it beats rust.
The "everything sticking to it" is much of what makes it work so well, just as mentioned, a thin layer of Black "mud" forms over the surface & the next application soaks right in. Lorne
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You don't want to use ATF it will eat all your rubber bushings.
you would only use the ATF in small amounts over the most critical areas such as the inside of the very bottom of doors or the inside bottom of fenders etc.
I should have elaborated.
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Have any of you sprayed the underside of your truck with used motor oil as a rust inhibitor? What kind of sprayer works best? Thanks!
krown rust control or fluid film works great.
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I hope you guys don't mind grime and gook dripping and oozing out everywhere not to mention the smell. Shutz is less than $20 a bottle and for $100 bucks you can do your whole truck thoroughly. Every vehicle I've ever had has been rust free where there was body shutz 30+years old.
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I hope you guys don't mind grime and gook dripping and oozing out everywhere not to mention the smell. Shutz is less than $20 a bottle and for $100 bucks you can do your whole truck thoroughly. Every vehicle I've ever had has been rust free where there was body shutz 30+years old.
if it does not drip, then you are not protected. I do not mind it dropping, as I know it will run onto l the crevices.
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I would use SEM spray on bed liner instead of Rocker Shutz.
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I'm sure if you reapplied every couple of months oil would work, but that's just nasty--not to mention its not worth the work to reapply. I would much rather use something similar to undercoating, bedliner, etc. I just can't imagine doing that on purpose. I'll spend good money to stop oil leaks so I don't have to deal with that when I'm under there working on something. I can just see me crawling out from under there with oil in my hair and big black streaks down my clothes--its bad enough without making it worse. Products made for this stay put--oil washes off.
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If oil didn't work the oldtimers wouldn't have done it, and we wouldn't still be doing it.
I know a guy that has a 1971 Ford Econoline van that has been oiled religiously every fall since he bought it brand new. It does have a little bit of rust here and there, but when I say a little bit, I mean a little bit. Original paint except the right side front door where some one ran into him in Boston when it was only a few years old.
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It must be a west coast thing, if a truck out here got inspected and there was evidence of oil sprayed all over the bottom, it would get impounded.
They make several differn't " under coatings " for vehicles that seal and protect against rust. But like I said, I am on the west coast and that just isn't done anymore. The last time I had one done it cost about $200.00 for the whole under coating of a truck at a local dealership.
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I'm with Jaredts on this! I spend lots of time making sure I don't have even a drip under my rigs. My Jeep has almost 400K miles on it with no drips.
Blazin, Body Schutz not Rocker Schutz - I've never used the rocker schutz but the body stuff is awesome for the price and the protection.
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Vile,
what's the difference between rocker shutz and body shutz? (exactly what is a shutz anyways? Sounds similar to irritable bowel syndrome :o) When I made my comment about price, I think I was looking at rocker shutz at like $250 for 6 cans.
Bake, I recently priced getting the truck rustproofed and the estimate was over $400
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I could care less if my rig drips for a few days. as long as its not a leak thats dripping! Once the dust has settle in it doesn't drip anymore.
As far as getting it on you, bahha, you guys have never worked on Tractors, dump, or log trucks have you? You go under clean, and come out covered from head to toes!
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I have to agree with the guys saying to oil the thing up, my step dads 98 astro van has been oiled every year and it has over 250K on it and the biggest spot of rust on it is the size of a dime on the outside of the front fender, my 87 v3500 looks like it spent it's life in a salt mine and it only has 150K and it had some sort of aftermarket rustproofing stuff applied to it for a while before I got it, the PO told me and I believe him, the stuff just doesn't seem to work as well as good old used motor oil, plus it's free after every oil change. I wouldn't worry about any drips just part it in the street with a bunch of kitty litter and let her sit overnight and then sweep up later. To me the spray on stuff rustproof that hardens is a joke if there is any hole in the layer it will hold moisture and allow everything underneath it to rust, oil just gets everywhere.