73-87chevytrucks.com
73-87 Chevy _ GMC Trucks => Engine/Drivetrain => Topic started by: kmcbride74 on June 26, 2011, 12:47:05 am
-
So, the bolt holes for the tranny cross member mount near the tailshaft were stripped. I put heliacoils in there. Worked great! in terms of getting good threads in there. In doing so, I think I went too far with the drill bit and poked through the housing. It is leaking quite a bit of fluid from those bolts :(
I'm thinking some kind of o-ring on the bolts?
How else might I be able to patch this baby up for a few more miles anyway?
-
Last ditch effort, you could always dial your welder way back and put a little dab over the hole. Just as a temporary fix that you later end up grinding off in lieu of a permanent repair.
-
Thread sealant would be worth a shot.
-
Just tried my rubber seal idea, significantly less leak, but still drips, arrrggg! Im thinking the fix may be to pull the tail shat off and somehow patch it from the inside. I dont think my welder will do aluminum though....
-
JB Weld or equivalent will bond to the aluminum and create a good strong seal.
-
Why not just use some RTV? If you can clean it up enough and long enough for it to cure, I think it could work.
-
JB Weld or equivalent will bond to the aluminum and create a good strong seal.
Yeah on the package for JB weld, it says that its safe for use on gas tanks. So I wouldn't be worried about the fluid eating it away, but I'm not sure if it will stand up to the heat. Certainly worth a try though.
-
with 4x4s the transfer case has bolts that do the same thing. you remove them to drain the fluid. if ever there is a problem we use rtv if you want to fix it i would use that or do as you say and try to seal it up from the inside
-
I dont understand . is it 2wd why cant you replace the part with another one
-
with 4x4s the transfer case has bolts that do the same thing. you remove them to drain the fluid. if ever there is a problem we use rtv if you want to fix it i would use that or do as you say and try to seal it up from the inside
Mine dont seem to, NP203...
-
the 203 has a bolt to drain the 205 has a drian plug idk About the 208
-
Is there room in the bottom of the hole to drill and tap it to a larger size? If so, you could take a really short (1/4 or 3/16 inch in length) set screw, coat it liberally with either thread locker or JB Weld, and insert that into the bottom of the hole. Then, just to be safe, use your O-ring on the mounting bolts, along with some thread tape or Teflon sealant. Make sure you let all the chemicals set up before you refill and test for leaks.
Also, I've used JB Weld to repair a hole in my oil pan. It didn't leak any time after I patched it, so it holds up well under moderate heat and constant contact with oil.
-
The only thing I see with JB is getting the bolt out later on. I would think it would be easier with RTV and still seal the same.
-
Would aluminum or copper crush washers be an option? It sure works on brake lines and oil pans.
-
a crush washer would stop it from coming out around the bolt head but it would still go down the shaft to the mount and soak the mount and leak from there. Rtv around the bolt threads should work
-
The only thing I see with JB is getting the bolt out later on. I would think it would be easier with RTV and still seal the same.
I was suggesting JB only for the end of the hole, that punctured the case.
-
gotcha