73-87chevytrucks.com
73-87 Chevy _ GMC Trucks => Brakes, Frame, Steering & Suspension => Brakes and Braking Systems => Topic started by: p7387 on July 31, 2011, 08:02:30 pm
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87 short fleet 2wd
problem:
while driving i felt a "bucking/humping" movement inside the cab, as well as a dragging and slowing down when i removed my foot from the gas pedal. additionally when i let go of the steering wheel the truck pulled heavily to the right. when stopped i noticed smoke coming from the inside of passenger side front wheel.
my question:
is this a indication of a wheel bearing problem or a caliper problem?
thank you
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Sounds exactly as a stuck caliper either the caliper is frozen or the brake line is deteriorated and wont release pressure. Crack open the bleeder and see if the caliper lets go, if it does its the line, if is doesn't it's the caliper.
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yep what goatman said . check your bearings you might have to repack (grease)them
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make sure the two allen bolts are in place, that hold the caliper in place. If one falls out, the caliper will feel like the brakes are on for that wheel from the drag.
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I see a new caliper in your future...at least. That much heat will ruin the rubber seals and o-rings in a caliper.
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thanks guys
i never did a caliper replacement before, is this something fairly straight forward
or are there some technicalities that i need to be particularly aware of?
once i have the caliper removed what signs should i look for to check if the wheel bearings need attention?
also what is a good basic brand name to go with on the calipers and pads?
thanks
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first off jack up your front end and grab the wheel with both hands and try to move the wheel in and out, up and down looking for play in the wheel. Spin it listening for friction sound--diagnose.
take your wheel off and look at what you got.
To remove the caliper, take a 7/16" wrench (i think) and remove the bolt keeping the hose on.
Take your allen wrench and remove the two bolts attaching caliper.
It is a very simple job. The caliper can be bought at any parts store. They should come w/ a bleeder screw, if not, remove the bleeder screw from the old one. 3/8" wrench.
Ensure you bleed the brakes after you put a new caliper on.
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when the caliper is off, dont touch the brake pedal
dont get grease on the rotors and pads
brake fluid eats paint
use a torque wrench
you can check to see if the bearings are lose by grabbing the tire at 12 and 6 oclock and check for play. if there is, bearings should be inspected/tightened/replaced. youll need bearing grease and rubber gloves to pack the bearings.
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i am ready to start the project, i plan on replacing both calipers and getting new rotors.
is there anything else i should replace as part of this project?
i was going to get all the parts through rock auto, is there any particular brand name that is advisable for the parts?
thank you
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pads
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pads of course, i forgot to include the obvious.
but anything else like hoses,bushings, new shocks etc?
also are there any articles here on the forum including the basic instructions for bleeding and refilling the system?
or any pitfalls to watch out for?
thanks
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brake hoses also could/can cause a caliper to lock up replace them also
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Caliper Removal:
1) just break loose all of the lug nuts with the vehicle on the ground.
2) Jack it up and put it firmly on Jack-stands.
3) give the vehicle a good firm shove side-to-side (this ensures that your jack-stands and vehicle are firmly planted)
4) take the cover off of the master cylinder and using something like a turkey baister suction off about half of the brake-fluid (don't use the wife's turkey baister)
5) using about a 5" jaw c-clamp around the caliper and resting on the backing plate of the outer pad, compress the caliper piston back into the bore (this assumes you are re-using your existing caliper)...also...don't over compress it or you will pop the dust seal off of the piston
6) remove the two caliper support pins (1/2 ton and 3/4 ton - 1 ton use Bendix calipers and they are different)
7) remove the caliper and support it with wire so it does not hang from the hose.
7a) remove the banjo bolt from the caliper that secures the brake hose if you are replacing the caliper (do this with the caliper still on the rotor...makes it easier)
7a1) have a plastic plug ready to cap off the hose so that you do not make a mess of brake fluid everywhere (you can use the one that should be in the box with the new hoses if you bought them)
Caliper Installation:
1) You can service your existing calipers if they are not leaking and sticking and you don't have the skills to rebuild them. You can buy a caliper hardware kit which gives you new bushings and o-rings and may or may not give you new support pins. If not you can buy those too.
2) Install the pads using some anti-squeal compound
3) Use a par of Channel Locks on the outer pad to squeeze down the pad retention tabs on the outboard edges of the pad making them tight to the caliper. This is an important step in making sure that they do not squeal.
4) clean the rotor and pads with brake clean either prior to installing the pads or after you have them on the caliper.
5) place the caliper over the rotor and secure with the support pins. Use some never-sieze and also make sure to lube up the bushings and o-rings in the caaliper before you put it on.
6) test the brakes while the truck is still in the air and bleed them if you loosened any of the brake lines.
7) top off the master cylinder, install the wheels and make sure to torque the lug nuts.
8 ) Take a slow careful drive to make sure everything is working properly
9) Now go 'Bed-in' the brakes for consistent and even rotor and pad wear.
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If you get into the wheel bearings, and I recommend you do. Make sure you check the wheel bearing races to be sure that they are not loose and possibly spinning.
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if you are doing the rotors they will come with the races, and you will need new wheel seals too
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que? its just a rotor on 4x2
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Nope. Oreilly only sells the assembly for 4x2s. They dont sell just the rotor.
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/search/Brake+Drums+&+Rotors/C0062/C0009.oap?make=Chevrolet&model=C20&year=1979&vi=1032196 (http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/search/Brake+Drums+&+Rotors/C0062/C0009.oap?make=Chevrolet&model=C20&year=1979&vi=1032196)
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they do but lol its to much
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/search/Brake+Drums!s!Rotors/C0062/C0009.oap?year=1987&make=Chevrolet&model=R10&vi=1059825&keyword=brake+rotor&page=2&results=15&sortBy=1&cat=Brake+Rotor
and i was wrong about the 4x4
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/search/Brake+Drums!s!Rotors/C0062/C0009.oap?year=1987&make=Chevrolet&model=V10&vi=1300868&keyword=brake+rotor&page=2&results=15&sortBy=1&cat=Brake+Rotor
and it appears they dont sell just the rotor any more sorry about that. i know they sold just the rotor or at least autozone did cause i had to change mine on my 86 c10. when did they start this crap up?
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realized what i was thinking. never replaced the rotor only replaced the a stud thats what i was thinking when i had to put that on in