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73-87 Chevy _ GMC Trucks => 73-87 Chevy & GMC Trucks => Topic started by: lechez71 on August 27, 2011, 03:32:00 am
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hey guys i have a 82 c10 with a LS motor swap and 4l60e tranny. i was using the stock manifolds, but i recently bought some 2002 ls1 camaro headers the pass side fit good, the problem is the driver side. the header fit but i cant shift into gear because it hits on the header collector. i need opinions on how i can get this fixed. im gonna cut the collector and weld it straight but its still not enough to clear the shifter rod. heres a pic
(http://i412.photobucket.com/albums/pp210/lorenzochevelle/DSC05169.jpg)
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quickest (and easiest but most expensive) is go to a cable operated floor type shifter like a B&M or Hurst. you may be able to grab a spare cross bar and hack it up/weld it to move the connection farther from the trans, but you may experience linkage bind doing that. i think cable is probably the way to go as much as i dislike floor shifters.
maybe something like this ???
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/LOK-ATS64L60ER2/
i would spend some time on summit/jegs/whoever and see what you like as far as style.
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some headers have problems clearing 4x4 and we just heat it up if you can and bend it
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im really trying to stay away from a floor shifter i dont like them in a truck. how would i heat the header up to bend it? will i have to heat all 4 tubes with a torch?
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Cut off the metal "s" shaped tab that is on the right side of the spring and clock it up perhaps. You would have to see where it would end up when in drive because it would rotate down. Or find some other headers.
or you could modify the rod so that "s" shaped tab is closer to the frame, clearing the collector all together.
I had this problem, but what was happening was that "s" shaped tab was hitting my shackle because i have 4wd. I learned that there were two different styles of that rod. one for 2 and one for 4 wheel drive.
as it sits in the pic, is it in park or in drive?
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I agree with beastie, I would see if the connection point for the shifter rod could be clocked up enough to clear the header without any binding while shifting through the gears.
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by the looks of it, i was thinking same thing. id surely try to just readjust that a bit by turning it, see what happens.
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See if you can heat up the header tubes and pull the collecter towards the transmission. That should clear the linkage enough. Just hook the hook of a ratchet strap into the end of the collector then to the passenger side frame. Crank it down untill its off the linkage, then.heat up the pipes so they bend around to where they should be.
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thanks to all of you guys, you all have gave me good ideas. im gonna try and make the s shaped arm closer to the frame and i think that should do it. than ill bend the tubes toward the trannny a little. these headers are the closees i can get to work other are worse, kinda hard when you put something where it doesent belong.
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before you move the s bracket, I would take the rod (that goes to the steering column) and move it over to see if it wont hit or bind first before you make any permanent cuts.
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ok ill check if the firewall wont be in the way before i cut the bracket. i dont think it will bind but ill check and also check for clearence.
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All the aftermarket long tubes have this issue from what I understand. I was going to ask Flaming about it on his build thread. I got 3/4 lenght, and I am hoping they will clear that shift linkage.
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I would get a spare pivot rod from a junk yard (so i could keep my original) and modify it to fit between the header and frame . On my project truck i just took it over to an anvil and pounded the offset straight and it cleared . If you have torches you could heat it up and reverse the offset towards the frame .
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What about just diveting the collector? I've done this on a couple of bikes to gain some extra clearance.