73-87chevytrucks.com
73-87 Chevy _ GMC Trucks => Engine/Drivetrain => Topic started by: Cody1018 on December 08, 2011, 07:44:58 pm
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Ive got my 350 sb tore down to the block. Im ready to take it into the machine shop to get it checked over and worked on. Im still undecided which way to go though. Build a mild 350 or bore it out and build a 383 stoker. Its going in a k20 longbed thats going to have a 4 inch susp. lift with 33 or 35 inch tires. Going to be my daily driver/work truck (might put a plow on it, not sure about that either). Going to have a 700r4 tranny and 208 transfer. The truck has 3.73 gears as of now. Not sure if ill need to change them out with having bigger tires. But all in all i need someone to point me in the direction i should go. Any help/suggestions are appreciated. Any parts or companies you can recommend would be helpful as well.
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If you've got the extra $ go for it.
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How much $ is the difference?
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about $1,000
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I wrestled with this same question not too long ago. Even though I didn't go the stroker route, I concur with Vile. If you've got the extra scratch go for it. I didn't not due to money mainly, but because i needed my truck running again as quickly as possible, and my block didn't need any machine work other than cleaning, cam bearings and a light hone.
Jeg's was selling a balanced rotating assembly for around a grand, there's a little extra machining to be done at the bottom of the block and lots of clearances to be checked, but other than that you're looking at the same parts as a regular rebuild.
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Money is a bit of an issue. The engine is where i am starting with my whole project. Slowly working to drive train then the body. This wont need to be an immediate build as i have a truck to drive for now. Im looking at about 2 years roughly to completely build my truck from frame up. So i might be able to swing some extra cash to the motor.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ESP-B13405E030/
Found this kit on summits website. Didnt think the price was too bad. But im not a motor guru either.
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you won't regret it if you go the 383 stroker route. I got one and love it. they call these stump pullers for a reason. lozza torque.
get an rv cam to take advantage of the lower rpm's and give it a slight lopey idle. with duals it sounds awesome.
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I went through the same thing 3 years ago, I was 15 when I got my truck, at 17 I decided to go with the 383 and spent $1,100 more than just doing the 350 with some odds and ends. I do not regret it one bit. I have a k20 with 6" rough country suspension lift, 700r4 tranny and 36" as of now, I drove it one week before I tore it all down for paint. In that amount of time I realized I had made the right choice. Again if it is in budget then go for 383. I started as budget build at 15 years old, I'm now 20 and still not done with the truck, close though..
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I concur that the 383 is the way to go.
Cody, below are two sites that have regular rebuild kits in addition to the stroker kits:
1. http://www.enginekits.com (In the summer of 2007 Super Chevy magazine had 3 issues on building a stroker w/ parts from this co., and their prices seem reasonable)
2.http://www.northernautoparts.com (Prices also seem reasonable)
Good luck w/ your build.
Rusty
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As mentioned, you will never regret the power of the 383, but you might have to think of long term and GPM, the 383 will suck more gas ( that is the only downside ), so if gas mpg is not a concern, if you can you should do the 383.
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What kind of gas mileage does a 383 normally get. If i can get about 15 mpg ill be happy. Not quite sure what kind of mileage i get in my truck now which has a 305. How much of a change would i see mpg wise? Since im still in high school and dont have a steady job yet mpg isnt too big of a deal since a round trip to and from school is a little over 4 miles.
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I am assuming 10 -12 miles per gallon if you keep your foot out of it. But most of the time, when people have more power, they tend to want to use more power.
Your 305 should get a good 15 - 18 if tuned right, 350 is like 12 - 15, 454 about 8 -10, so you can see the pattern. ( this all depends on driving style, setup as for as trans, gears in truck, and how you have it tuned )
My honest opinion has always been, (I know this does not work for everyone), is to have 1 vehicle that is reliable and daily driver, and have the second one you play with.
There is nothing to say you wont be thrilled with a 383, most people are, just be realistic and know you will not get the MPG you are used to.
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Will probably go with the 383. Since im doing a frame off on this truck ive decided to make it my play truck instead of a work truck. Going to buy a dd work truck later on down the road. Thanks for the help guys, appreciate it.
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Good luck on getting 15mpg's out of a lifted truck with big tires. My burb, with 4" lift and 35's, gets right around 10mpg. It doesn't have OD though, but I don't see that giving me 5mpg more. You'll likely be around 11-12mpg, like stated above. It will be like driving a lifted barn door down the road. if you want more MPG's, look into a LS (5.3) engine swap. You can get them fairly cheap, and probably do the whole swap for just a little more $ than the 383 would cost. Just food for thought.
On the engine, I had to make the same decision. I went with the 350 to save a bit of cash. I did go 9.5:1 with a decent little cam, and I'm not disappointed one bit. It tows just fine, picks up speed on demand, and when off-roading or mudding the low range takes care of any deficiencies in the engine bay. I can turn all four 35x12.5's on gravel in low range. Can't ask it to do much more than that. Not for a semi-daily driver anyway.
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I have a 350 and get 17-21 mpg I wanted good power and to be able to afford to run it daily. A 350 or 383 can be a slow gas pig or nice performers. Just make sure whatever you do make it a complete package that works together. if you're working with a tight budget a 350 can handle this truck just fine. So what you really need to look at is if the 1k would be better spent elsewhere depending on your goals.
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Anywhere from 10 mpg and up would be fine. Want to get the whole truck done and once it is it will be a dd for a couple years until i can buy a cheap work truck or rebuild the one im driving now. After that it will be a summer driven truck and off-road. Would like to go up to silver lake sand dunes in MI sometime. I just want to build it once and build it right and not have to worry about it that much. I can totally rebuild the 350 for a little less than a 383 would cost. Only downside is mpg really. I know lifted trucks get worse mpg but thats the way i want to go with this build, better 4in then 6in.
Dont really want to find another motor since i already got this one all tore down. Im all about saving money where it doesnt need spent but i dont mind splurging a little on the engine. Since this will be a couple year project and it will get done when it gets done i think ill go with a 383. Unless someone can talk me out of it.
One of the guys down at my local parts shop suggested a 327 stroker. Anyone now much about those?
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One of the guys down at my local parts shop suggested a 327 stroker. Anyone now much about those?
Do yourself a favor and stay away from this guy's advice
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Here's a good read for someone deciding what combo to put together;
It helped me along.
http://www.ryanscarpage.50megs.com/combos1.html (http://www.ryanscarpage.50megs.com/combos1.html)
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I also recommend a vortech style heads with either combo.
my combo is a 350, vortech heads, mild cam, flat top pistons, holley 670sa.
dynoed at 393hp@5400 & 432tq.
A lot of bang for the buck, IMO.
I would imagine with a 383 kit the tq number would hit around 500ft lbs.
There is also room for me to step up my cam if someday I decide that is what I want.
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One of the guys down at my local parts shop suggested a 327 stroker. Anyone now much about those?
Do yourself a favor and stay away from this guy's advice
x2 lol. ummm, lets see, a 383 or a 327? hmmm, that's a tough one....NOT.
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I’m thinking and hoping against the “More CI displacement = worse MPG” direction. I’m slowly currently building up a sb400, mild CR, vortec heads, mild 4x4 type cam, QJ carb (or maybe FI). Brand new my 1974 k20 motor was only 165hp and 250tq (internet quick research). Towing power is worse them my midsize 2000 V6 SUV at 205 hp, especially up a hill (slow and sucks the gas). Sure I could probably just build a 350 up a tad stronger, but I got the 400 to use. Key will be to keep control of my foot and NOT just enjoy the power.
NOT saying I'm correct, as I'm always willing to wrong :)
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Quote
One of the guys down at my local parts shop suggested a 327 stroker. Anyone now much about those?
Do yourself a favor and stay away from this guy's advice
x2 lol. ummm, lets see, a 383 or a 327? hmmm, that's a tough one....NOT.
Wasnt looking at it as an option..... Just wasnt sure why he suggested it.
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Good question. He probably just doesn't have a clue what he is talking about.
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I think MPG depends a lot on what parts are used on the engine. 1980c10 hit the nail on the head about the COMBINATION of parts working well together. I had a 355 in my old '84 GMC 3/4 ton that got 13-14 mpg (with a standard trans and 3.42 gears) and now I have a 383 with some AFR heads (which are expensive but work awesome) and other goodies and I get about 9 mpg on a good day. The 383 makes waaaaay more power but I wouldn't say the 355 was weak by any stretch. www.airflowresearch.com has some engine combinations you might be interested in...460 hp 515 ft-lb 383 stroker being one of them and a 430 ft-lb 350 if I remember right.
I will say if I do it again I'll build a 400 sb with vortec heads, a mild cam and somewhere near 9.0:1 compression with a good intake and dual exhaust. I'd build it for low end torque...this is a truck we're talking about after all. The 383 was expensive (afr heads didn't help this category) and it wasn't really worth it in the end in my opinion. Vortec heads I think are the best bang for the buck. The 383 has a TON of mid range power but is somewhat lacking on the low end...I wind up using granny low more than I did with the 355.
I vote stick with a factory engine size (cheaper and easier to get parts that fit)...go with the 400 if you want a big small block with lots of torque, or if money is tight go with the 350, the 350 can be built to make you happy for less money than about anything else and will most likely get better gas mileage.
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The 383 has a TON of mid range power but is somewhat lacking on the low end...I wind up using granny low more than I did with the 355.
A lot has to do w/ what cam you use. I am using an RV cam that takes advantage of lower rpms and love that 383. I have a rather tall rear for a truck (3.08) and still don't see a problem w/ low end torque-- it will fly.
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I have a 350 and get 17-21 mpg I wanted good power and to be able to afford to run it daily. A 350 or 383 can be a slow gas pig or nice performers. Just make sure whatever you do make it a complete package that works together. if you're working with a tight budget a 350 can handle this truck just fine. So what you really need to look at is if the 1k would be better spent elsewhere depending on your goals.
btw my combo dynoed at 393 hp and 432 tq (vortech heads, holley carb, flat top pistons and rv type cam)
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The 383 has a TON of mid range power but is somewhat lacking on the low end...I wind up using granny low more than I did with the 355.
A lot has to do w/ what cam you use. I am using an RV cam that takes advantage of lower rpms and love that 383. I have a rather tall rear for a truck (3.08) and still don't see a problem w/ low end torque-- it will fly.
Cam selection does definately have a lot to do with an engine's "manners" and that's getting back to the combination of parts.....my 383 has the 2nd smallest comp cams 4x4 Xtreme cam...but it's definately a step above the RV cam that some other people on here run. I think the RV cam is a good idea for a truck...a better idea than what I used in mine at least. Sounds like 1980c10 has a good combination that might be worth replicating if he's willing to share his "recipe"
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Sounds like 1980c10 has a good combination that might be worth replicating if he's willing to share his "recipe"
No secrets here, I would like to see someone replicate this and who knows maybe improve it.
-'75 4-bolt 350 block bored .030, flat top pistons, Crower torque beast cam, entire rotating assembly balanced.
-'98 factory vortech heads #062 w/ upgraded springs and radius ground valve seats. a/c delco platinum plugs.
- msd streetfire wires, proform distributor, 32 degrees advanced timing w/ vacuum advanced hooked up, holley 670 cfm street avenger--larger jets 72(f) 74(r), edelbrock performer rpm vortech intake manifold w/ 1" open phenolic spacer. holley flotech ceramic coated longtube headers, 2.5 magna dual exhaust, no a/c, emissions, cats etc., electric fan,
All I can think of at the moment
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Sgt Del, what MPG do you get?