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73-87 Chevy _ GMC Trucks => Brakes, Frame, Steering & Suspension => The Highs (Raising/Lifts) => Topic started by: dmiller2222 on January 12, 2012, 02:00:50 pm
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I installed a 3" suspension lift on my 1979 K-10 and it seems like my turning radius is not as tight as it use to be. What can I do to correct this and get it back to the stock turning radius? Everything else is perfect; ride, wheel alignment etc., just a wider turning radius.
Thanks for the help,
David
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Did you change any tire / wheel items too, or just added 3" of suspension lift?
By adding 3" of suspension lift, you slightly change the angle of the drag link (I think that's what it's called) going to the steering arm. The more you raise the steering gear box without raising the steering arm, the less movement you'll have at the tire I believe.
A person wants to keep the drag link as flat as it was when stock to keep the best steering geometry.
At least this is my thought.
Anyone else ??
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Did you change any tire / wheel items too, or just added 3" of suspension lift?
By adding 3" of suspension lift, you slightly change the angle of the drag link (I think that's what it's called) going to the steering arm. The more you raise the steering gear box without raising the steering arm, the less movement you'll have at the tire I believe.
A person wants to keep the drag link as flat as it was when stock to keep the best steering geometry.
At least this is my thought.
Anyone else ??
Correct, I assume you used your original steering arm and did not get a raised steering arm with the lift ?
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Thanks for the info.
Correct, I did NOT get a raised steering arm with the kit. Do I need a raised steering arm or would a drop pitman work? Do you have any suggestions on Manufacturer or part #?
Thanks,
David
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I thought you only needed a dropped steering arm with a 4" lift?
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That's what I had heard as well; like I said it drives a good as new, no bumpsteer, perfectly smooth. Just a noticeably larger turning radius.
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I did a 2.5" Skyjacker lift, then added a small spacer in front = 3.25" lift. Not sure I noticed a turning radius difference or not, as it's always been bad compared to my daily SUV. I do tend to wander all over the road however, but think that's because of the tall side wall tires. I replaced my drag link hoping it would help, but it didn't. Wondering if changing to a drop link would also help me, hence why I'm following this thread.
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Any lift will affect the turning radius. 4" is when they recommend a dropped arm as that's when it gets noticeably worse. If you notice the radius is probably close to what it was stock a little less, to the left. To the right its is probably allot worse than it was stock. You can adjust the drag link to make them equal but it will still be a wider radius than stock. Your steering wheel is probably not strait any more either correct?
Wider tires will affect it a small amount too as they tend to slide across the surface a bit more than stock tires. The wider the tire the less weight per square in you have on your contact patch.
74K20: Your wondering problem is most likely due to the use of a spacer in between your springs, and axle. Shouldn't use any type of spacer / block in the front end, dangerous. Most states they are illegal.
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Correct drag link length and raised steering arm as well as a proper alignment will correct your toe out on turns provided nothing is bent or out of proportion.
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Thanks for the help guys.
Blazin: The steering wheel alignment is perfect. I aligned the vehicle shortly after installing the lift. I have not checked the diff in Turning radius from one side to the next. Will do and let u know.
David
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Hmm, usually the wheel will be off if the axle is moved farther away from the frame, and the drag link isn't adjusted or a dropped arm installed.
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Hmm, usually the wheel will be off if the axle is moved farther away from the frame, and the drag link isn't adjusted or a dropped arm installed.
If he had a shop do the alignment, they might have straightened the steering wheel for him, most good shops will.
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The drag link adjustment doesn't change total toe but it will change steering wheel position. If you don't compensate for the length of the drag link and the angle your turning radius will be affected.
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So; I assume if a lowered pitman/raised steering arm is required for a 4-6" lift then the parts will work ok on a 3"lift and get my radius back to norm?
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I would just do the steering arm.
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A raised steering arm gets my vote too. A dropped pitman arm would work as well, but it will give the linkage more leverage on the steering box which isn't good for it or the frame. That being said guys use them on big lifts and get away with it but I think it increases the chance of cracking the frame around the steering box.
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For a 3" lift, just do a steering arm. Make sure it comes with new nuts and conical washers, or get them else where. The nuts are one time use only.
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and start soaking it with penetrating oil now!
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For a 3" lift, just do a steering arm. Make sure it comes with new nuts and conical washers, or get them else where. The nuts are one time use only.
Just a little side note. Does anyone know where to find the nuts and cone inserts for the steering arm ? I have lucked out locally and not done that great of a job on the internet either.
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I used to have the link where I got mine, til my computer crashed. Ill look for it. It was a reasonable price too.
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I went to the dealership to get them, and they wanted $20 for EACH conical washer.
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This is where I got mine
http://myworld.ebay.com/harshterrain/ $22 for the full kit is a great price
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Thanks beastie, I gave up for awhile and moved to something else, now I can get them.