73-87chevytrucks.com
73-87 Chevy _ GMC Trucks => Engine/Drivetrain => Topic started by: 305chevy c-10 on January 14, 2012, 10:10:12 am
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before i left the machine shop,the machinish told me not to put my motor togather until it gonna be put in the truck in a day or so .he said if i put it togather and say let it sit for months the assembly lube would just drain into the oil pan and on start up it would be metal on metal with no lube.now heres what intresting to me. the guy that is gonna assemble my engine said all that is true if u use assembly lube ;however if u use vasoline to assemble it it can sit alot longer but u have to watch out for dust .he said the vasoline wont drain off the cam and etc.when i was in his shop i notice he had a few engines on stands being built .i was just wondering has anyone ever heard of such a thing .i mean to me it makes sense ,but im no engine builder
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That's ridiculous. Use bearing guard or EOS Engine Oil Suppliment. After assembly prime the oiling system. If it's going to sit for a long period of time just keep it in a humidity controlled environment and turn it over once in a while.
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may i was not completely clear on letting it sit.i mean that it would be put togather on a stand and stored never even ran for break in yet( no fluids added ) .by turn it over u mean spin it with my hand every so often
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I have seen vasoline used many times. Also had a couple motors one with assembly lube, the other with vasoline sit for several months before installing them. Used an electric drill to prime them before start up, they were just fine.
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may i was not completely clear on letting it sit.i mean that it would be put togather on a stand and stored never even ran for break in yet( no fluids added ) .by turn it over u mean spin it with my hand every so often
Maybe you should clarify what YOU mean by letting it sit? You're going to build an engine and then it's going to sit for how long and where? You can rotate the crankshaft is what I meant by turn it over.
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it will be in a utility house on a stand in a plastic engine bag for maybe 6-7 months .i'm just trying to figure out the best way to go .i have a guy that can put it togather for 300.00 ,but he really too tied up with his other race cars to put it in .or its another guy who i can let build it and put it in or just put it in .trying to see if building it and letting it sit would be a bad idea .i have a lot of money in this thing .thanks for yall advice will post pics when it done ;D
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I'm not sure what a "utility house" is or if it's dry, damp, warm, ect. The most important part of this is what Vile mentioned...Prime the oiling system! You have a bare metal block that was cleaned of all of it's oil...it will rust VERY fast. If you don't prime it, the inside of the oil passages will rust & when you start the engine, all of the rusty "mud" will go through your new, clean engine plugging up & scratching everything.
To do this you'll use a tool in a drill & spin the oil pump through the distributor hole. Turning over the engine a 1/4 turn now & then would not be a bad idea. I would leave the rocker arms all loose also.
One thing I've done with core engines that I have no plan to use anytime soon is to FILL them with used oil. Tin covers over the exhaust ports & fill 'um up. I do this with differentials also. 10 gallons of new oil is cheap compared to taking it back apart. Just a thought, Lorne
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ok i understand , but i dont understand .if there is no fluids in the motor but assembly lube or vaseline .what is the reason for priming the oil pump if it will suck nothing.
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Prior to cranking the motor you will fill it with oil and then prime the system this gets oil to all the components prior to cranking it. If it is going to sit a while, fill it with some oil (cheap oil) and prime it and then cover/seal it. I would recommend putting it in a stable environment.
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ok i got now .my handi house is a dry place but i dont have heat or ac in it so in the summer its really hot in there until i open the doors and windows .thanks im gonna clean and wipe bores down with wd-40 and put it in a new bag until i get ready to assemble it .
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Another thing: When you do prime it get the right tool----just the shaft is no good---some or all of the rockers may not get any oil even if you rotate the crank while you do this (need clarification/???).
The shaft with the disk and cylinder is the right one.
Post again just before you fire it up so we can get some clarification on this.
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found this tool at summit racing. my is block taped off and painted now .tom i will give it a final wash with a gunk degreaser ,wipe bores and cam bearings dry with shop towel re lube with wd-40 and let the rest air dry before i put it in bag
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ok i understand , but i dont understand .if there is no fluids in the motor but assembly lube or vaseline .what is the reason for priming the oil pump if it will suck nothing.
We're not saying "Prime the oil pump."...Prime the oil system, as in: Fill the oil pan & run the pump with the tool that you posted to get the oil to be pushed through all of the internal passages. As mentioned, you should also do this again shortly before start-up. Lorne
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I am confused. Is the motor assembled? Is it going to be?
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its not assembled yet .just trying to find out the do's and don'ts before i assemble it and let it sit on the stand for a few months (6-7)
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Personally, I would wait to assemble it.
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I can't tell you how many engine's I've built that sat on a stand looking pretty. I've got one now I built for the 75 Blazer sitting on the stand at least a year and a half ago. I rotate it once and a while - No worries unless you're in a damp environment.
Actually I just looked Oct 09 I finished the engine and it's going to sit for quite a bit longer too
http://forum.73-87chevytrucks.com/smforum/index.php/topic,11379.45.html
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hey Vile thats a real nice big block ,im really motivated now.so do u turn crank also or just prime the oil pump .and is it full of oil?are the rockers loose ?do u put a bag over it
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I always bag the engine unless it's on diplay for viewing purposes in which case I just cover the top. The crankcase is full -not overfull and nothing is left loose. Once every couple of weeks just give it a few spins. If your clearances are correct and everything has been lubed and primed you have no worries. I would suggest pulling the distributor and drill priming again prior to installation or use an oil gallery primer. For flat tappet cams make sure you run a can of EOS in the crankcase as well and in the next oil change too.
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ok thanks