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73-87 Chevy _ GMC Trucks => Engine/Drivetrain => Topic started by: Low82C10 on February 16, 2012, 08:16:45 pm
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Im new to all this carb and stuff on engines. I have a little problem,i have a 82 c10 with a 350 i took it to get the carb adjusted only for it to run worse and he was messing with my dizzy. so i came home and it has been having problems starting which is was never doing before. so i started messing with it thinking my timing was off, i took #1 plug off, made sure i was compression stroke more than once. after doing so, i reinstall dizzy to line up with #1 on my dizzy cap. it cranks and cranks but wont even start, ive pulled three different plugs to check for spark they do spark, ive cleaned the rotor and the dizzy cap with sand paper. when i give it throttle the little jets in the carb spit fuel into the carb, so i dunno whats going on? i got spark, im pretty sure im on compression stroke, i just dont know what else to do?
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Did the guy who set ur timing use a vaccum gauge and timing gun. 2 this is something you can do yourself and learn while doing it, but you need a vac gauge and timing gun.
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i have a vac gauge no timing light,but i cant start it to be able to use either
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You should be able to turn the dizzy (advance or retard) and get it to start, but you need a timing gun to get it set right.
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A vacuum gage for setting timing? You lost me. I've never had trouble getting the distributor close enough to get it to start just lining things up. Are you sure you didn't cross any plug wires? How are you verifying you have #1 at tdc compression when you line up the distributor?
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Did you remove the distributor from the engine? If not, 454Man's suggestion of advancing or retarding the distributor should get some ignition. If you removed the distributor, you may have simply installed it 180 degrees out of phase.
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A vacuum gage for setting timing? You lost me. I've never had trouble getting the distributor close enough to get it to start just lining things up. Are you sure you didn't cross any plug wires? How are you verifying you have #1 at tdc compression when you line up the distributor?
I use the vac gauge to set the idle a/f raitio via idle mix screws on front of the carb while setting the timing.
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I didn't remove any wires from the cap, I did remove the dizzy found my tdc and put dizzy back in I did check like 4 times that I'm tdc on compression. I turn the turn clock wise till air pushes out then set dizzy and cap on 1 and it just cranks, after a few seconds it sounds like it wants to start but the starter backs off and just spins.
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Before you go to time it, you need to make sure you pull the vacuum advance line and plug it.
I think they asked if you pulled your distributor thinking you put it back it 180 out. How did you get #1 at TDC ? What method did you use ?
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Crank until rushes out of #1 spark plug hole will get you close to tdc compr., but you should take it one step further and then go to the timing tab and line its 0 up with the line on the harmonic balancer. Then you can turn your distributor to get the rotor lined up as close as possible with the #1 plug wire terminal on the cap. What do you mean your starter backs off and spins after a few seconds? Are you saying you have a starter problem too?
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yes i made sure i was on compression side, made sure the mark is on 0 and set my rotor to point towards the 1# on the dist. cap. still nothing just cranks and cranks, i got spark, and the fuel pump does pump fuel to the carb and if i give it throttle fuel shoots into the carb
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... i took it to get the carb adjusted only for it to run worse ....
Before the shop worked on it, what was it doing that prompted you to take it in for adjustment? ???
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when i would accelerate it would kinda hesitate after about 25 30mph it would be fine
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What year is the carb, or what #'s are on the carb you are running? This will help
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when i would accelerate it would kinda hesitate after about 25 30mph it would be fine
Referring to the original problem: did it hesitate instantly with accelerator application, OR did it start to accelerate fine for ~1/2 a second and then fall on its face, OR did it just sort of struggle to gain speed to 25-30 MPH like it was sluggish and low on power?
Now, referring to the no-start problem: raise the distributor cap so you can watch the rotor move. Crank the engine CW so the rotor points to #1 and align the timing marks to 0. By hand, slowly rotate the engine CCW until the rotor barely starts to move (it may be easier to remove the spark plugs while doing this). Using a tape measure, how far is the timing mark from 0?
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What do you mean your starter backs off and spins after a few seconds? Are you saying you have a starter problem too?
If you overheat a starter the bendix will not engage fully, sometimes you have to cool it down before it works right. It is also a good way to burn out your starter too.
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i just did what you asked, i pointed rotor to #1, got the mark on 0 and turned it CCW and it started moving at about 1/2" so its around the 4 or 5 on the mark
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That 1/2" of rotation translates to about 8 degrees of timing. If you wound up on the 4th or 5th mark (each mark is 2 deg), that confirms 8 - 10 degrees of looseness in your timing chain. If you're certain on the stabbing of the distributor, then the engine may have jumped time. Even w/o jumping a tooth, a timing chain that loose could have caused all your original symptoms.