73-87chevytrucks.com
73-87 Chevy _ GMC Trucks => Engine/Drivetrain => Topic started by: 454Man on February 21, 2012, 05:10:02 pm
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What's a good cam for a everyday 350? It may tow a jon boat down the line...
I'm looking at the edelbrok performer intake and cam kit idle to 5k. But id like to here some suggestions. I do want a little lope but mpgs would be little of a concern. Maybe in the 13+ mpgs but would like a lope when in gear at the stop light. I know its a compramise but...
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Why not keep the same one in it? Or is it not running?
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I'm anout to get a truck with a locked up 305 and I'm gonna have a 350 built and want a good sounding/ performing cam
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I've been looking at this cam
http://www.compcams.com/Company/CC/cam-specs/Details.aspx?csid=85&sb=2
Seems to be what I'm looking for. Lob center is good and lift is also. Again this will be a daily driver. Help guys remember I'm new to chevys:) will this work with stock heads and springs?
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According to the spec sheet you posted, the springs that Comp specifies are a bit stronger than stock and will necessitate machining to your cylinder heads (if stock).
Have you called Comp about the cam you are looking for?
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Thanks. I haven't called I figure you guys could point me in the right direction better than a tech/ salesman on the phone. I like to get others opinions and experiences before I talk to a salesman, so I can sound like I know what I'm talking about
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Well I called comp cams... he told me id have to upgrade heads, rocker arms, hedders, and so on.:( not happenin. I'm gonna check on the ebrock idle to5k cam.
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K so I called ebrock and spoke with a tech... way more helpfull than comp. Anyhoo he suggested the 2103 cam for a little lope and power. Sounds like this may be it anyone have any suggestions?
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http://www.compcams.com/Company/CC/cam-specs/Details.aspx?csid=72&sb=0
This is the cam I put in my truck. Its one of the extreme energy cams. I picked it up locally for 120 dollars, cam and lifters. It is the biggest cam I could get with stock valve train. Its got a nice lopey idle and quite a bit of power.
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Sweet! Thats more of a cam... How is the lope when in drive while pressing the brake?
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I have a manual transmission, so My idle sits around 400-500. It sounds real good. Its got a great rhythm to it. I'll see if I can find a video of it running somewhere.
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Sweet! Thanks! Really appreciate it!
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Did you ever get the video?
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Valves tend to float over 4k rpms with stock springs, so a valve spring upgrade would be helpful.
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Thanks for the heads up. Can can I use the timing cover and distributor from the 305?
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I cant find a video right now, but ill record one this weekend for you. Yes, you can use the Timing cover and distributor.
I take my truck to about 5500 rpms when I'm race-shifting it. Valves haven't floated on me, and I havent had any other problems.
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Thanks for taking the time out to record a video. It would not only help me out but others aswell. Nice to know about the valve springs not floating as I'm tring to keep cost down and still want a lope in my chevy.
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I wanted the choppiest cam I could get. So I called my local performance shop and asked them what the biggest cam I could use with stock valve train was and this is the one they recommended. I was also on a budget. I think my whole motor rebuild cost me about 800 dollars. $300 for machine work(vat, crack check, head cleaning and crack check, .010 ground off the crank, cam bearings installed) $140 for a bearing and seal kit(rings, main bearings, rod bearings, full gasket set), $125 for the cam and lifters, and about 200 dollars in various other parts, like power steering pump, water pump, alternator, battery, nuts and bolts, starter, fuel pump. It was a fairly lo cost build and its holding up strong. I would recommend putting a high volume oil pump in you truck, even with stock bearing clearances. I did not bore my engine, and it needed it. I bought a honing tool and honed it myself. I just couldn't justify the money to pay for the bore, and buy new pistons, when I could just hone most of the scratches out and call it good. I dont burn much oil, and I dont have piston slap. Just giving you some food for thought. Also, if you have any machine work done, go back over the work to make absolute sure there wasnt anything missed. I did not double check and I had to replace my heads because the machine shop missed a crack on the driver side. Sorry for blabbering on. Ill get that video today or tomorrow. Maybe a little bit of racing around so you can feel the raw power through the internet.
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Hey man I really appreciate the write up! My engine is coming from a place here in dallas called blanes motor supply. They have em in stock and a lot of people talk good about them they have a website, but ignore the prices on line cause there old. 350 engine minus intake flywheel, and oil pan 705. I'm getting that cam you suggested. I hope this turns out good. Its basically a stock build minus the cam
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Seeing how you already decided on a cam, put this in the htough bank for the next built and it doesn't matter what make of the engine you build. If you are searching for a "LOPE" in almost any engine and you want it to be running on all cylinders(lol)...The primary cam spec you should be concerned with is LSA=lobe seperation angle. The lower the number for the LSA then the more aggressive the "LOPE". For check any normal cam's LSA against say a Comp Thumper and you will se what I mean. The lower LSA is what gives the thumper cams their attitude and hence their name. But don't read this and think that I'm telling you that LSA is the only important thing when selecting a cam. LSA is simply the distance of peak intake to exhaust lift in degrees of cam rotation....so from the top of intake lobe to top of exhaust lobe for the same cylinder in degrees. This is where you gain the most overlap and scavaging....
OH, and here is a link if you are the reading, not sure how old it is but it doesn't matter because the facts hold true.
http://www.popularhotrodding.com/enginemasters/articles/hardcore/0606em_camshaft_specs/viewall.html
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Yeah I understand what you are saying. Its just I'm new to chevys and didn't know how much of a cam and overlap/lsa I can go on a stock build. :) so I had to ask you guys what you all suggest. I want this truck to sound better than my neighbors ram with the hemi. That's why I wanted the lope. He has turn downs and it anoys me... because I don't have somethin to crank up and shut him down. Lol
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Then it sounds like the next step is to get that sound out with some headers and new pipes....I mean i like mopars and i think that the new Ram commercials are halariouse inhow they attack ford so directly but he whats wrong with making a little noise. I'm putting flowtech headers on mine as we speak.
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Great that was my next question I've been lookin around and haven't seen many hedders that say in th ad that they fit our trucks. Where can I get some for a 350?
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Try your local auto parts store. They can order them in, or you can try header maker websites like Hedman, Hooker, etc. It may be pricey to buy new. or you can try craigslist. If you find a decent priced set, just ask the poster if they would fit a SBC or what they came out of. Where are you located?
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Here is one pair in dallas.
http://dallas.craigslist.org/mdf/pts/2858309339.html
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Got the truck
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Here's the video I took today, the sound quality isn't that great on my girlfriends Blackberry, but you can hear the rhythm and the chop, lope it has.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kRdznKMAhEE&feature=youtu.be
Here's my exhaust. only about 3 or 4 feet long.
(http://i1230.photobucket.com/albums/ee497/1979c20/2011-04-15174018.jpg)
And here is my engine after I built it, still on the stand. Looked good when the paint was fresh and the motor was clean.
(http://i1230.photobucket.com/albums/ee497/1979c20/IMG00153-20100604-2346.jpg)
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Now that's what I'm talkin about. Nice lope that will shut em down.:) thanks
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No problem. Good luck with the build.
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If you are looking for cheap with good quality then check out summit racing...specifically flowtech. Up til '87 the fram basically stayed the same and you should have the clearance for any of these headers listed for trucks in these years. However, if you don't want to hack up your existing exhaust then stick with a shorty style because most of them will bolt up to stock locations. The only down side to the shortys is that they don't make as much power but it is still a vast improvement over the stock cast pieces.
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Here is one pair in dallas.
http://dallas.craigslist.org/mdf/pts/2858309339.html
Thanks for the heads up! I emailed them. Will any longtubes fit this truck or do I need to measure when buyin on CL
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I think any should work fine. The issue is routing the exhaust around the transmission cross member. My cross member is low on one side and up on the other (s shaped). I chose to go over the cross member on the low side and to make the exhaust parallel to each other, the frame, and the ground. here is how I routed my pipe.
Had to go up on the driver side
(http://i1230.photobucket.com/albums/ee497/1979c20/2011-04-15174044.jpg)
Had to go in on the passenger side
(http://i1230.photobucket.com/albums/ee497/1979c20/2011-04-15174059.jpg)
Here's what it looks like, I cant find the picture from under my truck, but I'll take another one soon.
(http://i1230.photobucket.com/albums/ee497/1979c20/2011-04-15174027.jpg)
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Dude thanks! I'm out side polishin it right now. Yeah1:32am wonder what the neighbors are sayin...
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Haha, Try replacing freeze plugs from 10pm to 6am. My neighbors love me.
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Here is one pair in dallas.
http://dallas.craigslist.org/mdf/pts/2858309339.html
dallas,tx
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Haha, Try replacing freeze plugs from 10pm to 6am. My neighbors love me.
haaaa yeah I'm the guy changin a water pump outside below 30 degreezzz talk about burrr. Lol
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Then it sounds like the next step is to get that sound out with some headers and new pipes....I mean i like mopars and i think that the new Ram commercials are halariouse inhow they attack ford so directly but he whats wrong with making a little noise. I'm putting flowtech headers on mine as we speak.
Do you have a 350 aswell? If so what's the part number for the flow tech headders your using?
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whats wrong with making a little noise.
That my friend depends on if you want your wife riding in your truck or not. :o
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Lol! My wife is cool with it:)
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Do you have a 350 aswell? If so what's the part number for the flow tech headders your using?
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Here's the link...
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/BIG-49152FLT/
I do have 350 tbi...there are only e few issues with these pipes but they are simple fixes. (1) you will have to take the heat shield off the starter so you can remove the starter and solenoid wires to cover the with a DEI sleeve(reccoment 3/4" sleeve). (2)Also the factory Y-pipe will not just bolt up. if you don't have true duals then heres your chance or you can fab up a few bends and cut the flange off the Y-pipe. I don't remember if you said you had a 4x4 or not but if it's 2wd then it will be even easier bc you don't have the passanger drop t-case or front drive shaft in your way. They are not smog legal if you are a Cali guy.
whats wrong with making a little noise.
That my friend depends on if you want your wife riding in your truck or not. :o
Amen, Amen...When I had my '04 dodge quad cab I ran it for a while without anything after the y-pipe..it was cool til i started driving from southeast GA to memphis. So i put a flow on it...however the flow dumped out right between the end of the cab and the bed...Talk about DRONE!!! My wife wouldn't ride with me at all.
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Hey thanks! Its a 2wd so it should be somewhat easy. I do have the factory y pipe, but it will be for break in purposes only:) besides it has all the emissions stuff and well...
Might take a little longer than expected since I'm goin with a 700r4 and headders so that's extra budget $$$
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Might take a little longer than expected since I'm goin with a 700r4 and headders so that's extra budget $$$
When you get around to the 700r4 i highly reccomend doing your own simple lock-up for the torque converter. The factory controls suck and makes the tranny seem as though it's searching at certian speeds because of manifold pressure. It is realy simple and cost about $20 bucks instead of buying a stupid kit that will cost you 5 times as much. Oh and if you get the $$ monster has their monster-in-a-box on sale, which would make tha 700 last and pull hard.
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Might take a little longer than expected since I'm goin with a 700r4 and headders so that's extra budget $$$
When you get around to the 700r4 i highly reccomend doing your own simple lock-up for the torque converter. The factory controls suck and makes the tranny seem as though it's searching at certian speeds because of manifold pressure. It is realy simple and cost about $20 bucks instead of buying a stupid kit that will cost you 5 times as much. Oh and if you get the $$ monster has their monster-in-a-box on sale, which would make tha 700 last and pull hard.
$$ monster ????
What's that? I'm interested in anything that will make the 700r4 last longer. I had been reading up on the home made lock up kit for the trans, sounds like its easy
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Found it online. Man now I'm thinking of red finding a good core and building it myself. If not this will put me way over budget I do understand the importance of this kit though
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Oh yea, this is prob the easiest all around kit in a box. The most important thing is the sun shell. Most factory 700's fail at the sunshell splines but the "Beast" is just waht is says and will help with that extra tq.
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I may have to get me a book for rebuilding this trans
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Books can bee good even if they use big words...as long as there are pictures!! ;D
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Yep. Just by watchin the video in the monster site makes it look easy
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The hardest part of doing just about any automatic tranny is not mixing up which bolt goes where in the when you take off the valve body. They are diffrent lengths so to many beers during this process and you'd be glad you got the book.
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Great! Although I've never built a trans before I am mechanically incline and have the will to concor anything infront of me
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Will the 305/ 5.0 accesory brackets work on the 350? Also when buying a new intake has anyone had problems with the ac bracket mounting? There is a rod that goes from the intake to the ac bracket. Guess its for stability