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73-87 Chevy _ GMC Trucks => Engine/Drivetrain => Topic started by: Low82C10 on March 13, 2012, 08:07:00 pm
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some what new to this forum, i finally got my c10 running again, i couldnt get it started well it turned out that the mark on the balancer was way off so my balancer had spun. well after getting it running it was running like total crap. come to find out all the cyclinders have about 80PSI compression and number 8 has about 55-60. im planning on buying a rebuilt 350, but the guy wants 1400 to remove it and install it, not inculding the engine. so my question is, how much work is this, ive swapped out a engine in a honda, i know its a lot smaller but i some what know what im doing, i guess just kinda scared to take this project on. i guess im more worried about what are the steps and what i need to do to prep for this? and if there is a post already about this subject?
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If you have skills it is roughly an 8 hour job. Biggest pain is going to be the exhaust pipes but if you have access to a torch to heat the nuts makes the job easier. No AC, easier... no power steering, even easier.
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Doing an engine swap in one of these trucks would be a piece of cake compared to a FWD Honda. My Two Cents, Lorne
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1400 is way too much to pay. Its all pretty much just nuts and bolts. Take pictures as you go to remember where everything goes. keep your parts oraganized and labeled. You'll be surprised at how well it goes and proud that you did it yourself. If you get jammed up post back here and we'll talk you through it.
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1400 is way too much to pay. Its all pretty much just nuts and bolts. Take pictures as you go to remember where everything goes. keep your parts oraganized and labeled. You'll be surprised at how well it goes and proud that you did it yourself. If you get jammed up post back here and we'll talk you through it.
X2 the going rate here is 650 and I think that is too high
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If you can swap a motor in a Honda, this wil be a cake walk!
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Instead of leaning over to reach the engine, you just get in there with it; try that with a honda ;D
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More times than I want to admit I have swapped motors in a day. When we used to do mud bogs I would run whatever motor I could find if I needed one until I finally smartened up and built one. I didn't live near our shop then. Would pull it in late Friday night and start first thing Saturday morning and be at the bogs on Sunday. I might of been a bit younger then. Now I tend to take my time on stuff like that.
If you are on a time schedule get everything done to the new motor you can ahead of time. I used to have it all set and all I needed to do to it was swap my intake and carb and the distributor if I needed that too. Have someone around that is familiar with your tool box to fetch you tools. Stay out of the beer until after you give it test drive and are cleaning up your mess. Have some fluids around to top things off so you don't have to run out after them. You might want to consider new motor mounts while you have it out also.
With the help of everyone here you can get it done in whatever time frame you have.
I agree with the others, pulling a motor out of one of our trucks is a piece of cake compared to front wheel drive cars. Just don't rush it beyond your limits, take your time and be thorough.
Good luck and keep us up to date on it.
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Doing an engine swap in one of these trucks would be a piece of cake compared to a FWD Honda. My Two Cents, Lorne
x2: Way harder in a fwd Honda.
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$1400 to swap an engine?
I'm in the wrong business.
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$1400 way too much, here in El Paso you can get it done for like 300 bucks
Anyways I agree with everyone here, do it your self, and like 1980c10 said if you get stuck post pics here and we will all help you trough, (I ain't no mechanic) but these guys are great and know what they are talking about
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I like how everyone here says it would be way harder to swap the engine in a honda. I bet they would say the oppposite on a honda forum. Just sayin...Anyway I agree too; harder on a honda, although I never tried. I've had two foreign cars one an Audi and it was hard to work on almost impossible to diagnose. Now I happen to own a mazda-might as well be a c10-easy, but almost never breaks.
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I like how everyone here says it would be way harder to swap the engine in a honda. I bet they would say the oppposite on a honda forum. Just sayin...Anyway I agree too; harder on a honda, although I never tried. I've had two foreign cars one an Audi and it was hard to work on almost impossible to diagnose. Now I happen to own a mazda-might as well be a c10-easy, but almost never breaks.
I have done both, the trans axle in a front wheel drive car makes it harder the mess with then a rear drive vehicle. I would rather do a rear wheel drive engine swap any day.
After doing a few front wheel drive vehicles you know what to do, just saying that rear wheel drive vehicles over all are easier to remove an engine. If all you have done is front wheel drive, then a rear wheel drive might seem harder only because you have not down some before.
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piece of cake. i did it over the course of 4 days just for a couple of hours each evening after work.
Got a digital camera? take pics of everything so putting all back will be easier. I took upwards of 70 or 80 pics when i was removing my engine to refer to to put things back where they belong on my 383 stroker.
take ziplock bags and put bolts/nuts in them and label the bags with a sharpie. it isn't hard at all.
www.delbridge.net/install
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Pics are good. For something new, I take a pic at each step and point to what Im trying to take a picture of. Ziploc bags for small parts and bolts all labeled and masking tape labeling wires and hoses.
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WOW!! thanks everyone for the information, i been saving up the last few weeks and ive got enough for a rebuilt 350. im almost90% percent sure i have decided to go with 5.3 swap. i already have a good 700 trans i can mate with the 5.3 with the adaptor from advance adaptors. i figured i can get a 5.3 for 600 bucks plus get a computer and harness for a few more hundred. might as well make the right choice now. today i started to take apart all the emission stuff all the vac lines and even though im leaning towards the 5.3 im still labeling everything w sharpie and labeling what the hoses went to, just in case something goes in a different direction. i super excited about this swap i just hope everything goes super smooth with out any problems. anyone in arizona near chandler willing to help? haha.
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i found what i think is a really good deal,its a 4.8 complete with computer and harness and all accessories for 800 bucks. now my question is, is this a decent deal? it has 90k from a roll over truck. and also how much of a difference between this 4.8 and a 5.3 should i pull the trigger and go for it? most 5.3 are 100k from junk yard,for about 600-800 no accessories or harness.
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Compression and leak down test is needed when ever I buy a used engine
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This is an 82 c10 so the old 350 is carbureted? If your new to engine swaps you'll find it much easier to put the same thing back in. I'm not sure about pricing or what the differences would be for a 5.3 or 4.8, but if your yankin a 350 out and want a simple no headache swap throw a 350 back in. This way all other components including fuel delivery can remain the same.
Otherwise your introducing more variables into the mix. A different engine would certainly work just so long as your comfortable installing mount/bellhousing adapters, and it sounds like a different wiring harness, ecm(TBI system?), and other required sensors.
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I would pass on the 4.8. actaully if I was going to go through the effort I would skip the 5.3 as well and go with the 6.0 and cam it as well. if money or time was tight I would stick with a 350 that is a direct replacement. It does take quite a bit more effort to get one of the newer engines in that truck.
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I under stand the effort but its not my daily driver. Now another thing is I'm not looking to build a race truck just want to, I guess rebuild this truck as a project. So I just want a decent motor to get me around town I don't care much for it to run 12's on the 1/4. So wouldn't saying skip the 4.8 and 5.3 and go with the 6.0 like saying just go with a 454?
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Can you do a compression and leak down test on a motor out of a truck?
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You could do a compression check, but you'd have to have a battery hooked up to the starter and a remote start switch and a battery charger. A leakdown test would tell you everything you need to know, but you need a compressed air source and the tester. If you're doing an LS swap, you'd better look into it thoroughly and make sure you've got enough money stashed away. There are a lot of little details that cost some dough. Add vortec heads to a regular 350 if you want something a little better without the extra headaches of a LS swap.
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I under stand the effort but its not my daily driver. Now another thing is I'm not looking to build a race truck just want to, I guess rebuild this truck as a project. So I just want a decent motor to get me around town I don't care much for it to run 12's on the 1/4. So wouldn't saying skip the 4.8 and 5.3 and go with the 6.0 like saying just go with a 454?
If fuel injection is your goal; then the ls motor is a great option. the 4.8, 5.3 and 6.0 take the same amount of modification to install the 6.0 is going to offer a lot more power and probably offer fairly close to the same mpgs. a 454 would be nice for power but won't offer reasoble mpg. A cammed 6.0 could get you in the 12's. So if you're not looking for power just dependability and a good engine I would still step up to the 5.3 I would expect to fairly easily find one for 800 with the harness computer etc.
I was in your position last year looking for an engine. Like jaredts says; I used a regular 350 with vortech heads. The engine has an old school look, runs smooth, and gets 17-21 mpg. I'm guessing my truck could run in the 12's as its taken 13 second cars. I was looking for quality and bang for the buck,reasonable mpg and good street manners. I also wanted a clean engine bay. I have no regrets with this option at all.
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A fuel injected engine should always give you more economy (if kept tuned right), it falls down to weather the cost is worth it to you to do the swap. I am with 1980c10, all my old vehicles have had the carb. engines on them and have been happy with them. I am planning on doing a FI swap if I pick up the truck I might later this week. (looking at a 74 or 75 2wd truck, will be first 2wd I have owned)
I plan on using it for my D.D. until I get my 74 k10 done, then it will be time to transplant a FI power house into it, at least that is my plan now. Oh course that will be after much searching and learning and stashed back up money, I know how things go the first time you are learning something new.
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with a 350 and vortec heads your guessing in the 12's? wow thats pretty good. you know after thinking about it, maybe i should just stick to a 350.i guess im just so over a carb. i bought this truck a few months ago and it has been nothing but problems. ive spent over 2000 on this motor already and it has been nothing but problems. 1st it was the intake manifold was leaking heavy and every other were oil can leak out of it was so i got all that fixed, then the timing was off it wouldnt start then got it running but carb was messed up, anyways after it was all said and done the compression was very low on all cylinders. like i said i guess im just scared the same thing is going to happen, but i shouldnt think that was as it will be a fresh rebuilt engine.
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You shouldn't think that because you have to remember. Most folks just hop in and go, forgetting about oil, antifreeze, spark plugs and wires, and just all around maintenace/ tunings. So by the time you get it its no where like it should be. Fresh build and take care of it and with the properly tuned carb and timing you'd get just as good mpgs and hp as a fuel injected motor
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My 350 isn't completely stock but fairly close. It is a '74 block w/ '96 vortech heads(heavier valve springs and a radius valve seat grind). I have a mild cam, flat top pistons, edelbrock performer rpm intake, holley 670 carb w/larger jets, flotech headers. Also I run no a/c and an e-fan. I have also done a 5-speed conversion. It is also balanced and dyno tuned. The #' s are 393 hp and 432' lbs tq. I also run 91 or 93 octane fuel.
I would like to convert to a fuel injection system but most affordable kits I see only flow around 500ish cfm
I don't want to spend a lot of money and potentially lose power. The draw back of the carb for me is having to warm it up for it to start running properly and having to change choke settings for temperature etc.
As with any vehicle staying on top of little problems prevent them from being big problems and piling up.