73-87chevytrucks.com
73-87 Chevy _ GMC Trucks => Brakes, Frame, Steering & Suspension => Topic started by: howlinwolf on April 21, 2012, 08:20:30 am
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whos done it? any clues beyond the walkthrough here http://www.chuckschevytruckpages.com/chevy_truck_4wd_front_axle_ball_joint_replacement.html
i have sprung for the moog upper ball joints with the grease cert on the side, since i have a 10 bolt.
Just looking for other tips or tricks to make it easier.
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I did mine about a year ago, not hard at all, grab a chilton or haynes manual and that is all you need.
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cool. i have a chilton from 1988
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rocked out the front end work. note, if you have a 10 bolt be very careful about the ball joint you get. when i ordered mine they were very different. one had a taller collar, a large silver nut, and a double billow boot. that was the wrong one. it wont allow you the proper clearance. the other one was shorter, had a mostly flat rubber boot and a short nut.
Right now the truck is still in my dads shop, we ran into problems trying to swap the spring mount. when i get it back ill take pictures of the bad driver side ball joint. the lower was completly fried. also i didnt replace the tie rod ends, i had another axle with decent ones on it, and when we swapped it all out, turns out the stabilizer was absolutely shot. When we moved it it just scraped around.
why does it seem easier to reasseble the 4 wheel drive hubs this time around. its been 2 years since i had it apart.
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rocked out the front end work. note, if you have a 10 bolt be very careful about the ball joint you get. when i ordered mine they were very different. one had a taller collar, a large silver nut, and a double billow boot. that was the wrong one.
I also learned that lesson, I always compare when I pick things up at the parts store, especially if there are 2 or more of the same thing.
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just put new ebrake cables on the back. 2 completly different looking cables, but everything was the same length. they fit and work and had the same part number, but i dunno