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73-87 Chevy _ GMC Trucks => Engine/Drivetrain => Topic started by: LTZ C20 on May 06, 2012, 06:52:08 pm
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I have C20 with a sb350, Edelbrock intake and carb. I just had the carb professionally rebuilt, I was one of the best things I ever did. I runs like a brand new car from today practically. However right before I had it rebuilt, the throttle got stuck when I tried to pass someone on the highway. Then it was rebuilt. it been working great, but the other day i tried to pass someone again, and the throttle got stuck again. It's kind of a panic mode haha. Well I have checked the linkages and the cable and my pedal, everything is fine. When I use quick acceleration or get over about 55 to 65, the pedal sticks. I have to put in in neutral, practically KICK the pedal in the seat, it will come free, then I can drop it back in drive. All while still rolling down the road. I almost hit a dude! I can't figure it out. Any and all help is great. Aside from that, everything works like a champ. Thanks ya'll.
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First thing comes to mind is... When you are trouble shooting it the air cleaner is off correct? When you put it back on could it lack clearance?
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I am not sure, I have checked with the cleaner on and off. I have a 14 inch Chevy performance round cleaner, It has never done it in the two years I have had the truck. There is a 1 1/2 to 2 inch spacer between the carb and cleaner base. Even with the stock cleaner for a smog test it hasn't happened.
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Is the carb sitting on the manifold currectly?Not hitting the sides or anything?What about your return spring getting into your throttle cable?I had that one happen to me and it is not very fun.Let us know what you find.
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Any chance the pedal is catching on the edge of a floor mat? Any other cables or cruise control connected to the linkage? Disconnect them one-at-a-time to see if the problem goes away.
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Have you tried lubing the cable sheath? Disconnect the cable from the carb and the bracket, and drip some 3 in 1 oil into the sheath.
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I'll check all of these out, then I'll get back to ya guys.
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It may be possible the butterfly blades are catching on the spacer at WOT. Check for witness marks on the spacer.
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I'm not sure I understand that. ^^^
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i think i had a similar problem. with the return springs the would work well till wot then the angle they where at they just didnt have enough leverage on the throttle to pull it back. you might have to move your spring around
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Agree with all of the suggestions.
I'm not sure I understand that. ^^^
Look at the spacer and see if it's rubbing.
I'd change the return springs, for a few bucks it's piece of mind.
Does it do it with the spacer removed? The spacer changes the geometry of the linkage.
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The spacer doesn't come anywhere near the linkages and there's about 2 inches or so of open space around the linkages under the air cleaner. Also, are you guys meaning the spacer for the air cleaner? because I don't have a spacer under the carb to the intake mani. I have always had the carb bolted directly to the mani and never had a problem, they are matching series carb and intake, both Edelbrock Performer. The return spring is a good idea, I only have one. Maybe I should get 2 new ones.
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It could be the plastic Ferrell on the throttle cable too. I just had an issue with mine but it was not sticking just binding so it didn't feel right. On mine the carb linkage worked fine, the cable worked fine, but you hook it up and it felt like the bracket was trying to bend. The Ferrell was broken and moving inside the cable. Also is your secondary linkage working freely?
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Oh. Yea I'm pretty sure my secondaries are working. When I get to that point I can hear them open, I can hear the pitch change when they open. It's when I let off the gas, the throttle stays open and I have to kick it to get it off.
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I didn't read through everything above...
Usually for me, it's always been a problem with the cable. could have been it got kinked at some point.
Unhook the throttle cable from the carb (With engine OFF) while holding the cable where it normally would be, work it back and forth, do it a little rough to simulate flooring it. Then work the carb linkages while the cables unhooked. With the cable unhooked you can find out whether it's the carb or the cable.
if you unhook the accelerator pump linkage, you won't flood the engine while playing with the throttle.
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Ok, thanks. Also, I went on the freeway today, I cruised at 65-70 the entire time to where I was going and back home. I even tried accelerating and got up to 90 or so and let off. It got there no problem and when I let off the rpm dropped and it slowed. It didn't stick, so I have no idea whats going on here.