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73-87 Chevy _ GMC Trucks => Engine/Drivetrain => Topic started by: Farm boy on June 27, 2012, 07:35:17 am
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I have a 86 k10 with a 350, a bad th350 tranny, and a np208 t-case. I also have a 80 k10 that I am parting out with the same setup but a np205. So I want to swap the 86 over to a sm465 and the 205 t-case and i was wondering how close the sm465 is to the th350 in length and if the rear bolt pattern is the same as the th350 so I have an idea what kind of mods to expect.
I was going to use the my6 but when I got to thinking about it the truck has 3.42 gears, and it already has 33" tires and i will be going to 35s at some point. Most of the time I will be driving within 30min of my house, with an occasional trip to Toledo (45 min) and an airsoft field (1 hour). So I figured it would make sense to go with the sm465 instead. If there is something missing in that line of thought let me know.
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In my 74 k10 I am going with a MY6 trans with 35" and 3.73 gears, I figure at highway speeds I will be in the 2000 - 2200 rpm range which will help a lot with my MPG.
As far as the swap you are talking about, the SM465 trans is shorter I believe than the TH350, so mods will have to be done to drive shaft, and you will have to install all the clutch linkage for the SM465.
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using a online calculator you should be around 1,500 with that setup, and mine will be around 2,000. I think I'll go with the sm465 since i will probably be doing a lot of modding ether way, and it looks like i won't be doing too bad on rpms.
Quick question. On the sticker in the glove box it says on the tranny line: 1mxo 4 spd. auto. trans. Does that mean it had a 4spd auto or a sm465 and the auto means something else?
Here is the calculator i used: http://vexer.com/automotive-tools/speed-rpm-calculator (http://vexer.com/automotive-tools/speed-rpm-calculator)
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Your truck likely had a 700R4 transmission from the factory which was replaced with a TH350 at some point. If you were to install the SM465 and NP205, you'd have a pretty stout setup.
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Well i just found a sm465 and np205 combo for $250 so i am going to get that and just sell sell mine. So why would you switch a 700r4 out for a th350? unless it was bad and they had a th350, but still. The other thing is there is a closed in hole in the floor in what sounds like the right spot and shape for a sm465 shifter, but then i don't see anything left over from the clutch petal; so i really don't know what it had.
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86 had a hydraulic clutch. If yours was a manual it would have a hole next to the wiring bulkhead.
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Quick question. On the sticker in the glove box it says on the tranny line: 1mxo 4 spd. auto. trans. Does that mean it had a 4spd auto or a sm465 and the auto means something else?
As Jason S pointed out, that means that your truck came with a 700r4 transmission. That is the overdrive version for out trucks in the auto trans.
If you plan to swap to a SM465, your best bet is going to be to get a donor truck that is a stick, because your truck will have none of the parts for a clutch, it will all bolt up to your truck, it will just be easier to swap from one truck to another instead of going after parts a hundred times.
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Yah I agree but the guy I am getting it from has a lot of that kind of stuff or knows where to get it, and he is about 5 miles from me. That and my dad doesn't the 80 k10 sitting around any longer than it needs to (parting it out). Plus the best reason of all: I am almost wiped out from buying the second truck so I don't have the money to buy another one.
So if it had a auto tranny, what is the hole in the floor that looks like it's for a shifter?
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4WD...........transfer case shifter?
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I don't think so. I will just stop describing it, get a pic, and post back in 10-15 min.
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ok here is a pic of the closed in hole
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Looks like it is the location for a SM465 just not cut out from the factory.
In these pics you can see the factory cut out for a SM465.
(http://www.suitorsgarage.com/jsuitor/bottomsealed.jpg)
(http://www.suitorsgarage.com/jsuitor/newdash2.jpg)
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It looks like it's welded, and the floor has spray-on bed liner on it. So i don't know what it is but i know that is going to be opened back up ;)
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That stamping is in most floors for pickups.
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Ok i guess that makes sense. So one more question: could you guys help me out with my list of parts?
So far here is what i have:
-trans
-hydro shift bell housing
-slave cylinder
-clutch fork
Here is what i know i need to get
-clutch kit
-flywheel
-master cylinder
-hose/fittings
-clutch pedal
So what else do i need and how much of that should i get used or buy new?
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It probably goes without saying, but anything that is a wear part (clutch assem) I would get new, and if you can, anything that would have fluid in it, I would get new. The bellhousing didn't come with the hydraulic parts?
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no just the slave cylinder. i was planning on a new clutch kit, and hose. but what about the flywheel? and dose it make sense to buy new master cylinder or just get a used one?
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Flywheel depends on the min thickness. If you have a good used working master, you should be ok.
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ok that's about what i was thinking. so there isn't anything i need that's not in the original list (quoted below for reference)
So far here is what i have:
-trans
-hydro shift bell housing
-slave cylinder
-clutch fork
Here is what i know i need to get
-clutch kit
-flywheel
-master cylinder
-hose/fittings
-clutch pedal
And i mean anything; i haven't done anything like this before and i don't want to almost have the tranny in and realize that i am missing a bolt or a gasket or something.
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Ive done this swap twice, did it my last truck, and then stole the parts from that truck and put them into the one I'm driving now. there is alot of work to be done. alot of modification to do as well going from the auto to the stick. its a bullet proof drivetrain, but you also need bullet proof knuckles. if you have any questions feel free to ask. i have the hydraulic set up, bell housing, ect. i changed my steering coloum too. also running 4.10 gears with it and its a bit of a screamer with 33's so i want to come down to a 3.42 or 3.73.
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hey sorry to bring this back up again but i have another question. with the clutch how do i plumb the hoses? i though i just needed a line from the reservoir to the master, then a line from the master to the slave. but the guy at auto zone said that it should be tied into the brakes for the fluid. also i don't feel like paying $60+ for the line that goes from the master to the slave so can i just use brake line for that? and if so do i need to use the steel woven stuff or will the rubber stuff do?
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Tie into the brakes? We are talking about the Hydraulic Clutch right? It is a separate system. I would recommend braided hose on the lines for wear and strength.