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73-87 Chevy _ GMC Trucks => Engine/Drivetrain => Topic started by: Farm boy on July 25, 2012, 05:21:27 pm
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Well we pulled the engine on my 80 k10 i'm parting out, and now i want to know a little more about the engine since it's not original.
So first thing is the block doesn't have the location for the fuel pump, the mount is there but there is no whole for the lever. So anyways here are the numbers from the block: on the back lip for the tranny's bell housing on the left (drivers side) 10054727 and 5.7LG (i'm guessing that means it's a 350), same spot but right side it says Canada. on the front were the block meats up with the water pump are the following numbers: K0413TRM (the R might be a P but i think it's an R), and TK75 7899.
anyone know anything about it?
Edit: i forgot that the gm logo is stamped on the back too
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ok so i've done some more research, and i found this: "10054727 350 86-up 155-205 Car & Truck 2-bolt Passenger stick 1-piece seal" on this site http://whatareyouworkinon.com/content/chevy-engine-casting-numbers-etc (http://whatareyouworkinon.com/content/chevy-engine-casting-numbers-etc)
but i'm not really sure what it all means. i mean "350" means 350 ci (du), "86 up" means 86 or newer , but what does "155-205" mean? "car and truck" (du), "2 bolt" is that telling whether it has a 2 or 4 bolt main? what does "passenger" and "stick" mean? "1 piece seal" is that the output shaft seal?
The Canada thing is also making this a bit harder too (but also that much more interesting). right now i'm just finding it interesting looking into this so any info you can give me on this thing is welcome ;)
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2 bolt main bearing caps. 1 piece seal is referring to the rear main seal as a one piece seal instead of two pieces. It is a TBI or fuel injection motor with an electric fuel pump, hence no provision for a mechanical pump.
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155-205 probably designates a chassis code.
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ok well i have a question and this seams like the best time too ask. What does tbi mean? with all the stuff i've read threw here i haven't been able too find the answer to that one :-\
other than that i am thinking about is rebuilding the engine, (looking to get around the 400 hp range) and then swapping it into my 86 that soon will have a sm465, np205, and 3.42 gears. So the reason i finally gave up on the 80 is all kinds of little problems and the engine needs rebuilding (smokes white on passenger side, gets coolant in the oil, and smoke just billows out the breather on the valve cover) and there was no way i would have it done in any reasonable time frame. But now that i have a good truck i can take my time and do it right. But what i'm wondering is A) what kind of work am i looking at to get it back to being a good solid engine B) what kind of mods do i need too do to get 400 hp C)how much will it all cost
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TBI is throttle body injection. I wouldn't mess with it if you are looking for 400hp. You can get 400 pretty easy out of a 350 with a carburetor and HEI ignition for fuel and spark.
I would look for a reputable engine builder in your area and get their opinion. If you have some mechanical ability, have the machine shop build a short block for you and then you bolt on the top end. They should be able to advise you on parts and combinations. There are also a variety of books out there on small block chevy engines and parts combinations for performance.
You probably have a bad intake gasket that is leaking coolant.
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well now that i know what tbi means this could be a good time to say that the engine had a carb on when i got the truck :P so i guess it was converted at some point. does that change your answer at all?
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No, I would still try to find a reputable machine shop and have them build a short block and advise you on top end parts to achieve your goal.
TBI just doesn't spell performance to me.
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haha ok i'll start looking into that. thanks :)
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There is absolutely nothing wrong with a TBI bottom end, it is a much leak proof bottom end. The TBI heads are not any good for serious high RPM performance but are great for a good driver.
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i was sitn in the shop the other night thinking the same thing. since i'm gona replace everything but the block does it really matter? i kind of figured no so i was going to start taking it apart. one question though: after i strip it down to the block how do i protect the block while i collect parts for the rebuild?
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What i did with my block is sprayed it with WD-40 and keep it covered with a bag or two...and keep the block at one degree not in the house 60 degree and then out side at 90 degree....just don't let it sweet..it starts to sweet you have problems with rust all in the bad areas my block is going on two years in a bag with WD40 no rust,i just keep an eye on it...i had plans to build it 450hp 355 91 oct.then i built this cheap motor 355 stole the bearings rods and pistons...so my first motor I'm gonna run H Beams with dome pistons....12.9:1 110 oct.,But yeah just WD-40 and keep it covered
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ok sound good, i guess i'll start tearing into it later today ;)
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ok so i got it apart n everything looks good so now i need to figure out exactly what i'm doing so i can start the parts buying prosess that will probably last the next year and a half or so.
So as stated i want to get just over 400hp. Now the rest of what i'm going for: i want the torque to be twords the lower end since most of the use will be dd, towing, occasional 0-60 test;) but i want to be able to do a good mud run every now and then without doing like the second to last owner and blow out the engine. So i'm looking for good low end torque with higher rpm capability. So other than boring .030 over (needed anyway do to use) and vortec heads what exactly do i need bc i'm still pretty new to this stuff.
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So i'm looking for good low end torque with higher rpm capability
It is one or the other you can't have both. This is the camshafts job. Built for torque and you will make power.
You need to take it to a machine shop and get it inspected before you start ordering parts.
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If you are new to this stuff, then you do need to do as Captkaos suggested and go to a reputable machine shop and get some advice.
It may not need boring, you need to match heads, cam, intake etc., for what you are trying to achieve.
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Yah i need to find a good machine shop. It does need to be bored though; there is a light lip at the top of the cylinder travel. As for the rpm capability i know i can't have both i more meant be able to handle the higher rpm without failure (though high rpm is relative here).
But yah i really need to start looking for a good machine shop:)