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General Site Info => General Discussion => Topic started by: zieg85 on January 12, 2013, 11:24:49 am
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http://www.behmdesign.com/garage-plans-1292-1-38x34.aspx is the basic start but am thinking going longer in the center and right by 14 feet and offset the opening on the left that amount for a covered porch/whatnot
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i don't know anything about construction. How much will the completely building cost in materials? Have you considered the pre-fab metal kits?
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having the height for a lift in the center will be great. Not sure how I'd feel about the load bearing walls separating the bays. Are there any kind of trusses that would let you clear span it and still get the height you want? I see this design is more cost efficient without them.
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I am looking into all types of buildings, Pole barn, all metal or conventional stick built. I am not needing the 12 foot ceiling height except where the lift goes and all the way on the right I was planning a built in spray booth with the plenum in back with a bank of filters and doors with pre-filters so the ceiling height would be just about perfect...
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There are two points I like to begin with.
First, the roof is split into 3 sections,brining cost down on the size of trusses it will need. ( as long as you keep the middle load bearing walls in place ).
Second, from reading it sounds like you can have the plans altered for a nominal fee, which some companies will not do. Now that is depended on what a " nominal fee " is to them.
Zieg, I am assuming you are going to get the permits and inspections (if required in your area ?), which means you will have to start with blue prints before a contractor will even be able to begin.
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There are two points I like to begone with.
First, the roof is split into 3 sections,brining cost down on the size of trusses it will need. ( as long as you keep the middle load bearing walls in place ).
Second, from reading it sounds like you can have the plans altered for a nominal fee, which some companies will not do. Now that is depended on what a " nominal fee " is to them.
Zieg, I am assuming you are going to get the permits and inspections (if required in your area ?), which means you will have to start with blue prints before a contractor will even be able to begin.
My area requires a building permit and inspections, blue prints are not required. What mods I have in mind will not affect anything, just moving a the man door, and making 9x7 outside doors instead of 8x7 and making it longer. My former pastor General'd my first 2 additions and lined the needed help up so I have asked for his input. I am waiting on him to get back to me to see if he wants to take it on. I like the idea of the load bearing wall vs. free span. Never liked all that wood just holding up a roof. Seems like it would be easier to insulate.
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I did notice that particular plan had 7 man door possibilities, all I can say is you should always have a way out fast if you needed one. ;)
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I like the building. You could get rid of some of the 10' headers and put in walk through doors and frame the whole wall for the paint booth. You could have 3 diffrent shops, paint, mechanical and detail. Only thing i can think of is what your going to use for heat. You won't get alot of circulation with the dividing walls.
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Have you seen my garage? If not I will post pics.... It's awesome but guess what? Not big enough. If I had to do it all over again I would build a massive barn and once you are inside, surprise! Garagemahal
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Have you seen my garage? If not I will post pics.... It's awesome but guess what? Not big enough. If I had to do it all over again I would build a massive barn and once you are inside, surprise! Garagemahal
I have seen, drooled and considered going huge... I know you only go around once in life but the frugal/practical side of me says, I am, at the moment, somewhat limited in my abilities. If somehow I have to downsize due to circumstances beyond my control resale value of the home and property becomes a big factor, not to mention the rise in taxes and insurance once the building is up whether I can enjoy it or not. I also know me and if I did go huge I would fill it up and need even more room. I am surprised I am juggling the 5 trucks I have with the cramped space.
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You might want to consider a 14' ceiling instead of 12. That way when all is said, and done you have about 12'6" of clearance under the door when its open.
If you are looking into metal buildings Morton has some nice packages.
As far as having walls inside the build. Stay away from that. Even if it cost you a bit more for longer span trusses. It will save you from wanting to shoot your self later! Not sure how you feel about Gambrell style roof? You can get Gambrell trusses that give you a full height, and what ever you building allows width room upstairs. A second floor gives you allot of storage. You can have a trap door in the ceiling, with a chain fall or electric hoist up stairs to move bigger stuff up.
As far as stick built goes its easier to make some changes while construction is happening. Stick built is also easier to add on to later. Do plan it so you can add later. Even if its just a tool room, or just a car port style roof with no walls. Not sure what your door configuration is going to be? If they are to close to the side walls you loses work space on the walls, plus it leaves a dead area in between them if they are very far apart. Off set to one side is good as you have one side with a nice work area all down it. Room for benches, tire machines what have you. Are you planning a back door? A 4' wide one works well for allot of reasons. Wheel barrow, motor cycles, 4 wheelers etc.
What are you plans for heating it?
If you plane to use oil, and have the tank inside putting you waste oil storage near that same area is handy. Keeps all of that type of stuff in one spot.
If using wood keeping a small area for three or four days worth of wood is nice. Don't have to bring it in every day that way.
What about roofing? Strapping with metal? Or Shingles?
Insulation? Spray foam is nice because you don't have to vent the roof. It can be sprayed directly to the bottom of the plywood, or right onto the back side of the metal over the strapping.
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I'm in process of putting a shop together myself. Not wanting to hijack the thread....but hopefully a couple of questions that would be helpful to anyone. How much oil does it typically take to fuel a waste oil furnace? Also, with multiple bays, if you had a clear span roof, is there a way you could partition off say, the paint area, temporarily? Or when its really cold, just heat one stall? I see the load bearing walls an advantage in those circumstances. On the other hand, they might restrict certain projects What would some sort of heavy tarp or something do to divide those areas? Something that could be moved or pulled back? Not sure any of this is practical, just trying to have my cake and eat it too!
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I'm with Blazin on raising the roof. Looks like plans call for 4/12 pitch. Changing the pitch on 38 wide building one inch nets you 19 inches at the peak, so going to a 6/12 will gain you over three feet at the peak! Depends what your after, I have a friend who has this same style shop but with slightly bigger dimensions. The tallest section has a flat bottom truss the width of the center bay(with load bearing headers dividing bays and open walls) then he used regular lumber for the "wings on each side keeping the same pitch throughout. he then uses tarps to seperate the bays if necessary. If you use radiant heat$$$$$ that eliminates the need to "direct" heat to different bays. Your thread is inspiring to want to build something. LOL Good luck
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Suggest reviewing:
http://www.farmtek.com/farm/supplies/cat1a;ft_fabric_buildings.html
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All good points and very thought provoking. My thoughts are cost, wasted space and lumber overhead holding up the roof and most of all appearance. My house has 4/12 roof except over the garage section and it is 5.5/12. Where I took the picture from, I was standing on the back porch of the house and the right side of the building is going to follow the south outside wall. The separate bays would work out great for the different things going on. The middle section would be for the planned BendPak lift, tire machine along with a work bench. I plan to heat that section only as needed. I want to build a tool room where I can stash the more valuable stuff and have overhead storage of lighter truck parts. I may look into raising the ceiling on all a foot depending on how the material list is affected. It is fun planning this...
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zieg,
have you looked at putting in a downdraft ventilation system in your paint booth?
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My plan is to make two big tarp curtains that I can pull out and meet together at a 90 degree. Sectioning off a little more than a 1/4 of my shop for painting.
Walls are crap magnets. Crap gets leand up against them, hung on them, etc. If you have interior walls they will collect clutter. I know a guy that has walls similar to what those plans are. He HATES them. For the clutter factor, plus they make the bays narrow.
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check out thegaragegazette.com
I was reading there about a guy that put metal on his walls....bright white...said the lighting was awesome and didnt have to worry about banging up the drywall or getting anything wet. I think he found a light guage to use.
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Zieg, any updates?
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Zieg, any updates?
No, just waiting on the weather to break.
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Buddy of mine put a full automotive paint booth in his shop! Got lucky and a long-time local dealership was going out of business. He got their paint-booth for next to nothing!! Color me jealous!!!
zieg,
have you looked at putting in a downdraft ventilation system in your paint booth?
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I am actually looking for a used spray booth. I have seen them for very little cost but you have to take them down yourself which at the moment I am not up too. Plus they have been quite a distance. I am actively looking so if I have to adjust the plans some it is easier before I actually start... Was looking at 2 post lifts today between spray outs...