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73-87 Chevy _ GMC Trucks => Engine/Drivetrain => Topic started by: 86c10 on January 17, 2013, 09:26:09 am
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I have to replace the axle seal on my 10 bolt rear. Is there any special tools I need for removal or install? I only have a small window of time to do this tomorrow afternoon and want to make sure I have everything I need when I start. Sorry if this question has been covered before, I just haven't had the time to do a search (new baby taking up a lot of time).
Thanks
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If you're talking about the axle seal and not the pinion seal then common shop tool should suffice. Your axle should have a c-clip on the inside of the axle inside the carrier, you will need to take the brake assy. and backing plate off. Once you open the diff. Cover and push in the axle to remove the c-clip, you can pull the axle out and replace the seal.
Install in reverse order making sure to seat the c-clip completely in the end of the axle.
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I don't remove the baking plate. Pull the drum, and brakes. Pull the diff cover, then the pin retaining bolt. Have always found that tightening it a touch seems to make it less likely to break off when removing it. Had an old timer tell me that, and since then I haven't broke one off since. remove the pin, and C clip. Slid the axle out, a seal puller, or a long pry bar will pop the seal out. Clean everything up. i usually wipe as much old oil out of the rear as possible. then hose everything down with break clean. Drive the new seal in, and reassemble.
If your going to take it apart you might as well replace the other side too. Would be a pain in the backsdie if next week or next month that one started leaking!
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Thanks bake and blazin, would you guys recommend replacing the axle bearing while I'm at it? I had a little time to search yesterday and some posts said you should replace the bearings if a seal goes out.
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I would replace the bearings while its apart. However, you'll need a slide hammer to do so. As far as removing the old seal I use the end of the axle itself as I pull it out. :)
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86c10 I would sniff around and find out why the seal went bad to begin with. It may be a matter of just a bad seal, however step 2 is to check your differential vent plug and more specific pull the rubber hose of the nipple at the pumpkin verify "clear" passage from inside the housing through your hose and breather. Occasionally they do become plugged, the pumpkin becomes pressurized and no matter how new the seal.... its gonna puke fluid. Let us know what you find.
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I would replace the bearings while its apart. However, you'll need a slide hammer to do so. As far as removing the old seal I use the end of the axle itself as I pull it out. :)
86c10 I would sniff around and find out why the seal went bad to begin with. It may be a matter of just a bad seal, however step 2 is to check your differential vent plug and more specific pull the rubber hose of the nipple at the pumpkin verify "clear" passage from inside the housing through your hose and breather. Occasionally they do become plugged, the pumpkin becomes pressurized and no matter how new the seal.... its gonna puke fluid. Let us know what you find.
x2 on both statements. You got it open, do the research and work.
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I would replace the bearings while its apart. However, you'll need a slide hammer to do so. As far as removing the old seal I use the end of the axle itself as I pull it out. :)
86c10 I would sniff around and find out why the seal went bad to begin with. It may be a matter of just a bad seal, however step 2 is to check your differential vent plug and more specific pull the rubber hose of the nipple at the pumpkin verify "clear" passage from inside the housing through your hose and breather. Occasionally they do become plugged, the pumpkin becomes pressurized and no matter how new the seal.... its gonna puke fluid. Let us know what you find.
x2 on both statements. You got it open, do the research and work.
The more I look into it the more I think this is all good advise, I would rather not do the job twice. I'm going to have to replace the brakes on the driver side because the shoes are soaked in gear lube. The plan was to do this yesterday after work but my wife came down with the stomach flu and I've got baby patrol until she gets better. I'll let you guys know how it comes out, if I have time I'll try to take some pics and post a how to.
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Might as well replace the brakes on both sides. (1) they come both sides to a box. (2) no sense in always playing catch up. If you do one side now, and one later, one side will always wear out sooner than the other from now on.
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Might as well replace the brakes on both sides. (1) they come both sides to a box. (2) no sense in always playing catch up. If you do one side now, and one later, one side will always wear out sooner than the other from now on.
Hey Blazin, why is it that I could never get my children, or their friends, to understand this statement. I wonder if it is a generational gap thing, or just don't want to listen to parents thing. ???
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Might as well replace the brakes on both sides. (1) they come both sides to a box. (2) no sense in always playing catch up. If you do one side now, and one later, one side will always wear out sooner than the other from now on.
That was my plan until I started puling things apart this morning. When I went to take the cross pin bolt out I only got about 3/8'' to come out. I never heard it break so I'm not sure if a previous owner broke it and just put it back or what, I can tell someone has been in this rear before. So now I'm wondering if I should just swap the 10 bolt 2.73 for a 12 bolt 3.73 I have. I pulled the 12 bolt apart and it needs brakes but every thing else looks good. I was able to pull both axles and there is no damage from bad bearings and no groove from bad axle seals. I have the drive shaft from the truck the 12 bolt came out of,and it's the same length, so I'm not sure if I will need to get a hybrid u-joint or not. I've never had to get a broken cross pin bolt out so I'm not sure how much work it will be vs swapping an axle. What do you guys think? If I put the 12 bolt in I would replace both axle seals and bearings when I did the brakes on both sides.
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I've had sometime to research getting the broken bolt out and it looks like it might not be as bad as I thought. I'm going to try and get the bolt out with a small pic but if I have to end up burning the pin out I might as well put the 12 bolt in. If I have to buy a new pinion shaft and bolt for the 10 bolt it will only cost about $20 more to freshen up the 12 bolt and then I have a 3.73 for not much money. Does my train of thought make sense?
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I have gotten broken pin bolts out with a pick, and a magnet on the pick before. Allot of times there is like one thread left so you have to turn it counterclockwise with the pick. Tapping on the spider pin, & centering it some times helps too. Takes the pressure off the broken pin / bolt.
If you use the 12 bolt you will need a cross over U joint. The caps are smaller diameter, and the cross is a little shorter for the 12 bolt than they are on a 10 bolt.
Depends on how far you drive it, the 3:73s will give you allot more snap, but will probably drag your fuel milage down some.
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I have gotten broken pin bolts out with a pick, and a magnet on the pick before. Allot of times there is like one thread left so you have to turn it counterclockwise with the pick. Tapping on the spider pin, & centering it some times helps too. Takes the pressure off the broken pin / bolt.
If you use the 12 bolt you will need a cross over U joint. The caps are smaller diameter, and the cross is a little shorter for the 12 bolt than they are on a 10 bolt.
Depends on how far you drive it, the 3:73s will give you allot more snap, but will probably drag your fuel milage down some.
The truck doesn't get used much, I've put less than 2000 miles on it in almost 4 years. I use it to run to lowe's/homedepot, haul fallen branches on our property,etc. I've thought about starting a small lawn service and would possibly be pulling a small trailer, the extra snap would be nice. I also kick the idea around of a 5.3/4l60e swap some day and the 3.73 would be nice if that ever happens.
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Someone (to include myself!) should've at least mentioned the cross pin bolt is not suppossed to be reused, this is a step often forgotten when replacing axle seals. More often than not is gets pulled out and given the once over and "looks good" so back in it goes. Guilty here of that also, the problem is the bolt often gets overtorqued. Its a preventative measure and honestly on some projects "get it back together quick" prevails over take precautions(Guilty of that too) Kinda still curious why the old seal went bad.Looks like a 12 bolt in your future?
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Someone (to include myself!) should've at least mentioned the cross pin bolt is not suppossed to be reused, this is a step often forgotten when replacing axle seals. More often than not is gets pulled out and given the once over and "looks good" so back in it goes. Guilty here of that also, the problem is the bolt often gets overtorqued. Its a preventative measure and honestly on some projects "get it back together quick" prevails over take precautions(Guilty of that too) Kinda still curious why the old seal went bad.Looks like a 12 bolt in your future?
At this point I think it will be the 12 bolt that goes in. It's a little more work that fixing the 10 bolt, but like you said what made the seal go bad in the first place and I don't know what kind of damage there might be on the axle itself.
Can I reuse the old axle U bolts or are do they stretch to much to be reused?
I know I'll have to change the speedo gear to make it read right, but I'm going to have to pull the trans at some point to fix a leak I have coming from the front pump seal or maybe the front pump gasket, so I'll change the speedo gear when I have the trans on the ground.
And I will make sure I replace the pinion shaft bolt before this is finished. Is it a dealer only part or can I get it at NAPA or Oreily's? I've seen them on ebay, but for a $3 part it seems like getting it locally would be easier.
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You can reuse the U bolts, provided the axle tubes are the same size which I believe they are.
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You can reuse the U bolts, provided the axle tubes are the same size which I believe they are.
Thanks
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I have never heard that you are not supposed to reuse the pin bolt. I have reused them and taken them out again years later without any problems. I don't doubt that you shouldn't as a rule, just never heard it myself.
As far as U bolts go any spring shop will tell you you shouldn't reuse them. Have I reused them? Yes I have, in a mud truck, or wheeling rig.
Anything that sees daily driving, or carries a load should always use new U bolts.
They stretch when torqued tight.
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As far as U bolts go any spring shop will tell you you shouldn't reuse them. Have I reused them? Yes I have, in a mud truck, or wheeling rig.
Anything that sees daily driving, or carries a load should always use new U bolts.
They stretch when torqued tight.
I thought someone years ago told me that they shouldn't be reused but I don't know where I heard that. The truck only gets about 500 miles a year, so I'm not sure if it wold be a big deal to use the old ones. I think they are original to the truck.
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Does anyone have have first hand knowledge of a used U bolt failure? And yes they do stretch alot more than you would think, With that being said my personal opinion is that on a 1/2 ton 2wd, I don't really see a part failure in the future. You are 100% correct to error on the side of caution I agree whole heartly with you on that.
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I would think that damage to the threads would be the number one reason to replace them. For the money they cost it is a no brainer to use new ones. Like Blazin, I have reused u-bolts in my own rigs before. I have also driven a lifted CJ-5 with a loose rear end. Not the u-bolts fault but rusty spring perches that collapsed from abusing the jeep. Not a fun ride home.
Does anyone have have first hand knowledge of a used U bolt failure?
I have only ever seen one broken u bolt. Not sure if they were used or not. Not sure why it was broken either. It was broken down on the curved part.
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Does anyone have have first hand knowledge of a used U bolt failure? And yes they do stretch alot more than you would think, With that being said my personal opinion is that on a 1/2 ton 2wd, I don't really see a part failure in the future. You are 100% correct to error on the side of caution I agree whole heartly with you on that.
I've never seen a u bolt fail either, but that doesn't mean it doesn't happen.
For the money they cost it is a no brainer to use new ones.
I know the cost isn't that much for new u bolts, but when I go from thinking I'll be at about $50 to fix the 10 bolt and now by the time I get the 12 bolt ready the right way I'm closer to $150. Yes $100 isn't the end of the world but on a really tight budget it hurts.
So far out of all the people that I've asked about this it's about 50/50 weather or not it's ok.
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Well after 30 minutes a small screw driver,a pic and an awl I was able to remove the broken bolt. Working by flash light when it's 40 degrees out kind of sucks but it wasn't to bad. Tomorrow I'll pull the axles and see if they are damaged and then round up parts.
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86c10 I would sniff around and find out why the seal went bad to begin with. It may be a matter of just a bad seal, however step 2 is to check your differential vent plug and more specific pull the rubber hose of the nipple at the pumpkin verify "clear" passage from inside the housing through your hose and breather. Occasionally they do become plugged, the pumpkin becomes pressurized and no matter how new the seal.... its gonna puke fluid. Let us know what you find.
Thanks for the tip pholliday. It turns out the vent was the problem, the nipple was plugged solid and so was the check valve at the end of the hose.From the looks of the brakes this has been going on for a long time. I found out I have a frozen e-brake cable to replace later on, but at least the truck is useable again.
Thanks for all the help guys.