73-87chevytrucks.com
73-87 Chevy _ GMC Trucks => Fuel Systems and Drivability => Topic started by: Steve341 on May 12, 2013, 10:16:33 am
-
Grrr This truck is really starting to get my goat now. I got that 75 C20 Scottsdale camper special with the 454, as you guys have helped me with its hesitation problem. Thought I got the truck running perfect just by changing the small fuel filter in the carb, and the main one under the truck. I drove it around lots in the past 3 days, drove it HARD and no problems at all. Got the truck box camper loaded in the back, a 3200 pounder dry weight I may add that has been on that truck since it was brand new I've been told. It is a 1974 Scamper 12 footer. Heavy unit. Anyways loaded it up in the truck box, took it for a spin slow speed working fine leaving town. I took it on the highway and put er to the mat, still fine. And about 3 minutes into our little test drive as I wanted to see how this beast would yard this camper no problem of course and I have never driven with it on, wanted to see what it was like, it hesitates, I back off on the gas pedal, floor it again and then she quits on me. Tried starting it again, nothing not even a fire, before we got out of the cab. Real STRONG gas smell thought it was coming from the back of the truck, no. Popped the hood up and the carb is soaked in gas and a nice pool of fuel on the intake sizzling away. Called the guy I bought the rig off of, he came down and checked it out. Appears the choke was stuck open and he could not get it to close. He said he would hold it closed and go in and try cranking it over so I did and we had a small fire, thankfully had a fire extinguisher in the camper. Then he just pulled it back home with his tundra. Is it time to rebuild or replace the carburetor? He said he would get a rebuild kit and fix it up.
-
How soon do you need the truck?
-
Last weekend in may
-
What you describe, sounds like the float may be hanging up.
If the truck has just sat for a while, in my opinion, I'd clean and put in a rebuild kit to the current carburetor. If there were not any major issues with the original carburetor beforehand, other than the truck having set for a while, I would just clean the carburetor thoroughly and install the new gaskets; I would check the float setting and other adjustments, but wouldn't touch them at the time of rebuild.
-
The carb number is 7045212. I was messing with it today. It's spraying fuel straight up the choke above the primaries.
-
I got the carb off the motor. Going into Edmonton see if I can find a rebuild kit
-
I suggest this manual it has a lot of information about the Q-Jet..
http://www.cliffshighperformance.com/buy_book_2.html (http://www.cliffshighperformance.com/buy_book_2.html)
-
Are you sure it's the carb? have a similar problem w/ mine every couple of months. No resistor for the coil. I still have points ignition. w/ out the resistor the coil goes out every couple of months. Even w/ choke problems it should at least fire. If you have converted to hei then disregard.
-
If you have converted to hei then disregard.
1975 C-20 should have HEI from the factory.
-
I bought a remanufactured Quadrajet. It is not a Rochester, its a Carter same thing though. I put the carb on, didn't take too long. Set the idle took it for a spin and it preformed just great. The next day I started messing with the air mixture screws. Yesterday my dad wanted to take it for a rip. So it is extremely windy and I'm packing a truck camper in the box so we had to open it up going into a 40 mph wind. Here we go. Sputtering yet again. Fuel pump seems to be fine, its not leaking or anything like that. Now what could be the problem? Reman carb on it, and its acting up again, but this time the carb is not leaking like the old one was.
-
I bought a remanufactured Quadrajet. It is not a Rochester, its a Carter same thing though. I put the carb on, didn't take too long. Set the idle took it for a spin and it preformed just great. The next day I started messing with the air mixture screws. Yesterday my dad wanted to take it for a rip. So it is extremely windy and I'm packing a truck camper in the box so we had to open it up going into a 40 mph wind. Here we go. Sputtering yet again. Fuel pump seems to be fine, its not leaking or anything like that. Now what could be the problem? Reman carb on it, and its acting up again, but this time the carb is not leaking like the old one was.
It's Points
-
On the plus I only have to pump it 1-2 times to start at cold instead of 30-40 lol
-
I bought a remanufactured Quadrajet. It is not a Rochester, its a Carter same thing though. I put the carb on, didn't take too long. Set the idle took it for a spin and it preformed just great. The next day I started messing with the air mixture screws. Yesterday my dad wanted to take it for a rip. So it is extremely windy and I'm packing a truck camper in the box so we had to open it up going into a 40 mph wind. Here we go. Sputtering yet again. Fuel pump seems to be fine, its not leaking or anything like that. Now what could be the problem? Reman carb on it, and its acting up again, but this time the carb is not leaking like the old one was.
Sorry, Rochester and Carter two different animals, could be jetting but I'm betting on weak ignition...
-
GM Contracted out Carter to produce the Quadrajet as Rochester could not keep up on demand.
-
GM Contracted out Carter to produce the Quadrajet as Rochester could not keep up on demand.
I am leaning towards weak ignition as well. Sorry it is HEI there is no ignition coil at all. I never thought of ignition problems. I was about to order a new fuel pump, but I am told these mechanical ones either work or don't work or are leaking when they are failing. HEI, Wires, Plugs? What kind of cost am I looking at? Big Money for the HEI coil I bet
-
GM Contracted out Carter to produce the Quadrajet as Rochester could not keep up on demand.
Yes that's true, but still two different animals nothing the same about them. ;D
-
I am leaning towards weak ignition as well. Sorry it is HEI there is no ignition coil at all. I never thought of ignition problems. I was about to order a new fuel pump, but I am told these mechanical ones either work or don't work or are leaking when they are failing. HEI, Wires, Plugs? What kind of cost am I looking at? Big Money for the HEI coil I bet
Yes there is a coil, it's in the cap that's why it's bigger than a points distributor, now is this a stock factory unit?? I'm betting it is??, if I'm right that is the problem, factory units were made to go down the road at 2500 rpm for 200,000 miles not high rpm stuff and after 3500rpm they fall off, the cure is an aftermarket 50,000 volt coil and module that will give you a hot spark at any rpm no matter the load on the motor.
-
I will go take a photo of the distributor and the Carter Quadrajet looks identical. All parts on the carter even have the same part number as the old rochester
-
The Truck is a camper special, and I just am using it for that. There is a camper in the back surely it can go higher than 2500 RPM. So this cutting in and out has nothing to do with my tuning of the carb? The truck revs quite high with the rear end in it, geared to be a work horse not a speed demon meaning high RPM at lets say 60 mph
-
I will go take a photo of the distributor and the Carter Quadrajet looks identical. All parts on the carter even have the same part number as the old rochester
-
Oh it's possible the jetting could be off on the carb plugs will tell you that, but as you say it revs up pretty high that's because it has a 4:11 rear end gear(factory standard)and I'll guess you have about a 31" tire? that's around 3000rpm at 60 and will be ok at cruise but put a load on it at that speed and rpm increases and ignition will fall off, also the quality of the plug wires is a factor and the type plugs used, I may have missed it but did you do a complete tune up on this??.
-
I will go take a photo of the distributor and the Carter Quadrajet looks identical. All parts on the carter even have the same part number as the old rochester
Looks like stock HEI, coil is is in the center on top.
(http://forum.73-87chevytrucks.com/smforum/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=26124.0;attach=23063;image)
-
I don't know if it has HEI ignition or Points. The distributor is quite large and I don't see a wire in the middle going to an ignition coil. I have a sneaking suspicion I wasted my money on the carburetor I never thought of an ignition problem.
-
Should I start with new plugs and wires? I am going to return the old carburetor tomorrow to get my $50 core back. Should I pick up a set of new plugs and wires? The previous owner said they are 10-15 years old right now.
-
I don't know if it has HEI ignition or Points. The distributor is quite large and I don't see a wire in the middle going to an ignition coil. I have a sneaking suspicion I wasted my money on the carburetor I never thought of an ignition problem.
Re read my post you have an HEI, the coil is in the distributor it is self contained, the hump on the top is the coil, all it takes is a direct 12 volt wire to the unit, BTW did you check that???..
-
Should I start with new plugs and wires? I am going to return the old carburetor tomorrow to get my $50 core back. Should I pick up a set of new plugs and wires? The previous owner said they are 10-15 years old right now.
Holy crap, 10-15 years old,LOL, yeah I'd say you need a complete tune up,lol, does this goes for the distributor too?, probably could use a new cap and rotor too.... Ok gotta go, be back in the AM.. :D
-
Lol I will pick up a set of plugs and wires and put them on tomorrow
-
Lol I will pick up a set of plugs and wires and put them on tomorrow
Get quality wires and Autolite or NGK plugs..
-
I popped off a wire. Sure enough Male on the distributor female on the wire. To be honest with you, This is the first time I've seen this. Always seen Male on the wire Female on the cap
-
Could it possibly be the mechanical fuel pump? Can they somewhat work, or is the fuel pump a either it works or it doesn't work kind of deal. It does not leak.
-
It's not leaking and it's pumping fuel don't worry about it, one thing at a time just do a "complete" tune up first.
-
Thanks for the help buddy. I will let you know when I get the plugs and wires in and take er for a rip. I hope I wont be cutting 40 mph wind today
-
Anytime glad to help, don't forget with HEI plugs are gapped at .045.. And check cap and rotor I'm sure they need replacing too.
-
Best I could find was champion wires and Bosch platinum plugs
-
These champions should be better then these Whitaker plug wires that's on it now. They look OLD wondering if they were from factory
-
Couldn't find Autolite???, and here I thought I was in a hick town that didn't have anything,LOL, you have the small tapered seat plug right?, and nobody had 144's???, Bosh will do fine though.....
After 15 years under the hood anything looks old,lol, new ires should do wonders for it...
-
I googled these Whitakers. They are vintage 60s and 70s wires
-
Sooo, got er all tuned up yet?.. :D
-
Just put the plugs in. They all had oil on them lightly and black carbon deposits and #7 had real bad oil. Since I put my new carb on the cold idle sucks. How can I fix that
-
If I press the choke open with my fingers it runs not bad cold
-
Once it warms up abit it runs beautiful
-
Nope still there.
-
Sounds like choke adjustment, is it electric or heat coil from the intake???..
-
Heat coil. The hesitation is still there during accelerating
-
Take that cover off and clean out the cavity and make sure the coil is not broken and clean, crud builds up in there over time and can make it non functional.... Is your timing right??, set total at 36* and all in by 2800-3000rpm, if it still stumbles then it's the accelerator pump, if it's 15yrs old then odds are the carb could stand to be freshened up too..
-
I got a brand new rebuilt carb on it
-
Well, like I said make sure timing is right first then go from there.
-
Timing. Now that is something I have no idea how to do.
-
Timing. Now that is something I have no idea how to do.
Do you know how to use a timing light???..
-
Nope. Never used one before
-
Nope. Never used one before
Well then I guess it's time you learn, I could type this out but it would take two pages and I don't have the time,LOL, this is a push for MSD stuff but it applies to any ignition, basics are the same and it is really simple but a huge factor in a tune-up..
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FZxsp7S7ZhQ (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FZxsp7S7ZhQ)
-
I'm going to buy a pump first before I start messing with that. I'm 99.9% sure it's a fuel problem.
-
Whatever you want to do...
-
Dude, a fuel pump is cheap, but so is a timing light. You will need one. They sell one at Harbor Freight that you can turn a dial on that represents the amount of advance you need. I suggest buying a Haynes/ Chilton manual for your truck at any auto parts store. The book will explain a lot of maintenance things including operation of a timing light. Directions also come with the light. Pull the fuel line off of your carb before the filter and have someone turn the engine over. Gas should shoot out for every revolution the engine makes. If it does then your pump is o.k. Just don't blow up. I'm sure someone is going to jump my *ss for telling you that but it will definitely narrow down the problem a little.
-
Pull the fuel line off of your carb before the filter and have someone turn the engine over. Gas should shoot out for every revolution the engine makes. If it does then your pump is o.k. Just don't blow up. I'm sure someone is going to jump my *ss for telling you that but it will definitely narrow down the problem a little.
I've done that several times, but I use a remote starter button never turn on the ignition so there is never a chance for a spark.. :D
-
How do you time it? Turn the distributor while its idling at operating temperature?
-
How do you time it? Turn the distributor while its idling at operating temperature?
To set the initial yes with vacuum advance disconnected, to set the total you bring the rpm up to 3000 it should be all in by then.
-
Very interesting video. I have delco remy stock ignition. So it's the same then as the video?
-
Yes, it's basic ignition tuneup..
-
Right directly under the water pump I see some teeth. Is that where I aim the timing light?
-
Yes, clean the tab off and you'll see numbers stamped on it.
-
What number do I need to be on?
-
The oil on the dipstick smells like gasoline
-
no no you look into the light. lol yes, but if its working right you will see a mark on the balancer. mark it with chalk will also help it stand out 0° will be on center. the smell is prob from blow by. i just change mine more often
-
The oil on the dipstick smells like gasoline
Pull the oil dipstick and put one drop of oil on the pad of your finger. Does the oil form a smooth-edged drop that holds its shape, or does it track quickly out along your fingerprint? If the oil drop quickly wicks and tracks your fingerprint, the oil is saturated with fuel and needs to be replaced along with a new oil filter. For the fuel to be that saturated, replace the mechanical fuel pump, as well, because it has a perforated diaphragm.
Simple blowby will not cause that degree of oil saturation over a short period of time as long as the PCV system is functioning; neither will a flooding carburetor.
-
bd didnt know that maybe that could be one of my problems lol. but if the fuels not over flowing out the carb vents then how else would it make it to the engine?
-
Irish, clarify your comm.
-
the diaphragm on the fuel pump hows that affect the oil?
-
You're correct in that excessively rich fuel delivery can wash the cylinder walls so clean of oil that the rings won't seal and some of the fuel, as blowby, will collect in the crankcase. But this scenario generally describes a "gradual" contamination of the oil over many hundred to a few thousand miles. In this scenario exhaust often smells intolerably rich. The problem exacerbates if the engine runs only short distances and is never allowed to warm up, so that fuel collecting in the oil doesn't vaporize and burn via the PCV system. Excessive maintenance intervals will also exacerbate fuel accumulation in the oil over the service life of the oil. But, I don't think that's the case here. It seemed the OP was describing a situation that developed fairly quickly.
A common cause of fuel saturation of crankcase oil is a ruptured rubber diaphragm in the mechanical fuel pump. The diaphragm is the primary barrier between liquid fuel in the pump and the crankcase. If the diaphragm tears, fuel is pumped directly into the crankcase. Contamination occurs fairly rapidly. This is where I think the problem lies in this particular case. It's not an unusual circumstance.
-
see thats where you lost me about the diaphragm tearing. i always thought if it torn you would get fuel since there was no vacuum being created. never really looked at fuel pump never had to change one, like i said this could be my problem then. mine is the same one i had when i first got my 86 and that was prob close to ten years ago
-
LOL - The diaphragm essentially is a flexible 'piston' that's pushed in one direction by the pushrod off the cam eccentric, then pushed in the opposite direction by the pressure spring. As it moves back-and-forth it flexes. A small tear may not stop the pump from working, but when the diaphragm is in the right position, it can open and bleed some of the fuel into the oil. If the tear is bad enough, fuel will also leak through the vent onto the ground. The fuel pump also has an oil seal. If the oil seal fails, engine oil will leak through the vent holes. It's a cruel world!
-
lol and let me guess another sypthom of this would be fuel draining back from the fuel filter when the engine sits for a bit of time
-
That's always possible, but I'm more inclined to think it drains when the needle valve opens in the carburetor and breaks the seal against the seat. It's kind of like drawing soda into a straw and sealing the end with your tongue. What happens when you pull your tongue from the straw? The straw empties to the level in the cup. Using a fuel filter with an integral check valve may well solve that symptom if it's a concern.
-
not really a concern just dont know what causes it. dont have no other visible fuel leaks. and from what i remember it did it before and after the carb rebuild
-
So after reading these posts I think my pump is bad. I changed engine oil and filter on my truck late summer early fall of 2012. I barely drove it since because its a pig on fuel. I maybe put 5-600 miles on it. I didn't pull the dipstick and take a drop of oil. I did get a new pump it bolts right on fine and what not. I removed the inline fuel filter that someone had installed. In guessing the only filter from the factory is the fuel filter located just past the fuel inlet on the carb. According to my Haynes manual anyway. Long story short I ended up reinstalling the old mechanical pump as the inlets are on the opposite side on the new pump and my hoses would not reach. Also I fiddled with the line that goes straight up to the carb and for the life of me I could not get the threads to start into the pump. If I extend the rubber line and connect to the new fuel pump with the inlets on the opposite side the old pump will that work? Also can I reuse gaskets ? I put the gaskets from my new pump on to reuse my old one as I had to scrape away the previous gaskets. Also Haynes manual talks about some kind of spacer meaning the pump a gasket a spacer a gasket then connect to engine. Can you tell me what that is about? I do not have the spacer.
-
All in all my oil is not dirty with that kind of mileage
-
Rather cool day out here. And yup dropped oil on my finger from the dipstick and it runs down my finger prints and my finger smells like I've dipped it into pure gasoline.
-
So what your telling me is my fuel pump is the cause of the stumble and hesitation? If I slowly bring it to 30 mph it will be fine there. If I floor it the motor cuts right out for a second then 4 barrel kicks in briefly and hesitates. Wants to stall and starts running rough when I stop at stop sign red light etc some of the time so I pop the automatic in neutral and rev it.
-
Here is the pump I bought. All the same it's just got the inlets on the wrong side. It's a carter M60191 incase you cannot read the photo
-
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/06/10/ypute9us.jpg)
-
Metal line connection to carb does line up like I said I cannot get the fitting started. Might try disconnecting at the carb slacken the metal line start the threads on the pump before I install it. Also when I reinstalled the push rod I used vasoline as it worked great to hold it up. Can I use it or should it be lithium grease
-
sound like you got the wrong pump for your application,same style pump,but different application have the inlets and outlets in different directions, need to get the pump made for your truck
-
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=296125&cc=1031971, here a link to the right # for reference for your application.
-
I just went through this with my AC delco pump I got from rock.... I ended up getting a fitting and some ethonal proof rubber fuel hose.
-
Take the fuel pump back for the correct one! Every aftermarket manufacturer copies ACDelco (the OEM supplier), so Delco supplies the preferred pump, though Carter should be satisfactory. The Haynes referenced 'spacer' is actually a ~1/8" steel plate that sandwiches between the fuel pump and the block; two additional bolts have to be removed to remove the plate. It's not necessary to remove the plate and, in fact, best to leave it alone, unless you're trying to resolve an oil leak from the pump mounting area. You can reuse the gasket with a thin smear of silicone sealer as long as the gasket isn't torn.
Steel lines can be a pain, even with the correct pump in hand! Using a 5/8" flare nut wrench, loosen the steel line from the carburetor. On some vehicles, you also may have to loosen a clamp that secures the steel line to the engine block. Don't take any more apart than you absolutely have to, to start the threads. After you've installed the pump on the block, wrap two turns of Teflon tape around the threads of the line nut and then carefully start the nut with your fingers. Before tightening the nut at the pump, wrap two turns of Teflon tape around the line nut threads at the carburetor end, and start it into the carb inlet nut. Make sure both nuts are started without cross-threading! Now tighten both line nuts using a flare nut wrench. Be sure to back up the carb inlet nut with a 1" open-end and the fuel pump outlet fitting (maybe a 3/4" open-end) before cinching down on the respective tubing nuts. By the way, the Teflon tape doesn't 'seal' the tubing threads, it just lubricates the threads so they will tighten adequately without distorting. Effectively seating the line to the flare is what seals the connection.
So what your telling me is my fuel pump is the cause of the stumble and hesitation? ....
I'm not claiming this at all. Reading through the thread you definitely had other issues that needed to be addressed - and you corrected them. Now, it's time to correct this one. Until the cause of the oil dilution is resolved and the oil and filter are changed you'll never be able to resolve your original complaint or even know whether it still exists beyond "excess fuel in the oil."
But, look at this experience from a positive point of view.... You have a CLEAN crankcase! ;)
-
What was the link for that pump? Seems it disappeared
-
By application, your 1975 C20 w/454 calls for an ACDelco 40963 (https://www.acdelcodirect.com/products/air-and-fuel-delivery/fuel-pumps-and-related-components/40963). The ACDelco 40963 pump appears similar to the image you posted, above.
The Carter pump from Rock Auto is here:
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=296125&cc=1031971, here a link to the right # for reference for your application.
If your original pump's line configuration appears the same, then either of these pumps will work.
-
I need to put longer rubber hose for the pump I got now to work. I can try installing it with longer hose. Can I buy 45/90 degree angles for this?
-
Fuel hose pretty much comes in straight lengths. You need to be careful that the hose doesn't rub or chafe, and doesn't kink. The best approach is to use a pump that's properly configured for the chassis routing and location of the existing steel lines. Your local parts house should be able to help with fittings for custom lines.
-
Here is a real carburetor website....it even has rebuilding video's.
http://www.carburetor-parts.com/Free-Carburetor-Manuals_ep_274.html
-
Here is a real carburetor website....it even has rebuilding video's.
http://www.carburetor-parts.com/Free-Carburetor-Manuals_ep_274.html
That's one of the better sites for information.
-
Hey All, I got that pump to work after all. Took me about two hours to get the threads started with lots of prying on the line but its on. Took some priming to get it to start but its running with the pump I bought originally. Same thing happening with the hesitation. I was talking to my uncle about it, and he was asking how it is starting. I said the starter cranks over like nothing on a cold engine. If its warm and try to restart it, the starter lags abit. He told me its more than likely timing issue. So I was having a look at the HEI distributor, and I cannot find the distributor hold down bolt. He said its only one bolt that needs to be backed off just enough so I can turn the distributor freely but not too loose. Where is this bolt, and Haynes manual does not tell me the location of it. The manual also says refer to the vehicle emissions label under the hood, The label is gone. All in all, Where is this bolt that needs to be loosened so I can play with the timing and find the sweet spot. Please say I can get at this with a ratchet or a wrench. I do not have a distributor wrench.
-
Look where the distributor goes into the motor....you will see almost like a hordeshoe piece of metal with a bolt going through it into the motor...that is the distributor bolt.
-
Back it off slightly with a ratchet and socket? Half Turn, quarter turn?
-
If it is tight, it may take more than that, just remember to tighten it back down.
-
and you have to use a wrench a distributor wrench would be nice
-
and you have to use a wrench a distributor wrench would be nice
And That I do not have
-
If you have a used wrench or a cheap one just heat is and bend it.
-
easy to make, cheap to buy
(http://i.ebayimg.com/t/Distributor-Wrench-Set-2-PC-1-2IN-X-9-16IN-3-8-DR-SET-never-been-Used-/00/s/MTIwMlgxNjAw/z/uygAAMXQhuVRR11S/$T2eC16F,!zQE9s3sqJPMBRR11R3Ydg~~60_57.JPG)
http://www.ebay.com/itm/PRO-VALUE-CARQUEST-39633-DISTRIBUTOR-CLAMP-WRENCH-/400498568149?pt=Motors_Automotive_Tools&hash=item5d3f932bd5&vxp=mtr
http://www.ebay.com/itm/K-D-Offset-Distributor-Wrench-1-4-3-8-No-291-Brand-New-Old-Stock-Made-in-USA-/330938313423?pt=Motors_Automotive_Tools&hash=item4d0d75eacf&vxp=mtr
-
Would this be my next step to work at the hesitation problem? Where do I want the timing set at on this 454? Don't forget I need lots of power, I don't care about fuel economy as I'm packing a slide in truck camper.
What I've done:
-Reman Quadrajet
-New plugs, and wires
-New fuel filter
-Removed inline fuel filter
-New mechanical fuel pump
-
Could it also be my mixture screws? What is every adjustment I can tinker with on the quadrajet?
Or is the engine nearing the end of its lifespan? I sure hope not
-
Found the distributor bolt. Got er loose with a 9/16 regular wrench taking the air cleaner off. Warming up the motor now
-
....
What I've done:
-Reman Quadrajet
-New plugs, and wires
-New fuel filter
-Removed inline fuel filter
-New mechanical fuel pump
Reminder:
The crankcase was full of fuel. Don't try to adjust the carburetor until you change the oil and filter! You'll never get it to run quite right until you do! You'll also risk damage to the engine.
-
One thing I forgot to mention is that if I floor it at idle it will hesitate sometimes as well. After I tightened the distributor I took off at half throttle. Zero hesitation. But going back I think it will start
-
So what you're saying is a simple oil change will possibly resolve my hesitation?
-
I uploaded a few videos to YouTube
http://m.youtube.com/?reload=3&rdm=mb32415st#/user/gunit6815?&desktop_uri=%2Fuser%2Fgunit6815
-
No you're oil has been diluted with fuel and needs to b changed.
-
Problem solved. It was simple and not even under the hood!
-
How many liters of oil does it hold? Does 6 sound about right?
-
What was the problem?
-
I switched from the left tank to the right tank and it's fine. I drove it for 40 miles 20 against the wind and I didn't notice the truck camper. My guess is dirty tank or it's partially blocked where the fuel leaves the tank.
-
It's workin fine 2 barrel and 4. Purrs like a muscle car
-
We headin out to the lake for a few days. Be interesting how it will handle the hills. Some pretty steep up and downs
-
Hope I can make em in 2 barrel mode to save fuel on them hills LOL
-
Good luck
-
Thanks 454Man and everyone else for all the help. Without this forum I wouldn't know how to change a carb, fuel pump, etc
-
After the camping trip here is my fuel usage. Total Fuel used: 34 Liters or 9 US Gallons. Total Distance driven 125 KM or 77 miles. Fuel Economy 8.5 miles per gallon. Sound about right for a 454? I was thinking it would get atleast 10. Not sure what the gears are, but it is a camper special 3 speed automatic and high rev.
So far so good and ZERO hesitation.
-
Well here we go. The problem returns.... 160 km from home
-
something i noticed with my 79 it would run crappy sometimes at idle then i decided to run 93 instead of 87 total different truck. runs like a champ now no more idle issues or hesitation once the carb warms up
-
The highest octane we can get is 91. Ouch I'm getting 8 mpg on regular 91 isn't cheap
-
meant 91 lol dont even pay atention to the numbers any more cause then you will see how much your paying lol