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73-87 Chevy _ GMC Trucks => Engine/Drivetrain => Topic started by: ChaseDale3and8 on June 20, 2013, 02:04:59 am
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Having trouble getting my 465 trans and 208 transfer case the rest of the way back into my 86 K10. Got it where it's 1 1/3 inches from the bell house and can't get it to go any further. Something must not be quite lined up where it wants to be but I'm having a time trying to figure out what the hold up is. If its this close are the splines on the input shaft lined up with the clutch, or could that be the problem? When I put the trans in gear I can't turn the drive shaft, but in neutral I can. It will help narrow it down if I know for sure whether the splines are lined up and engaged as its sitting right now. I haven't had to work on one of these manual trans trucks like this since about 1995 so I've forgotten a few things along the way. I can't remember for sure, but it seems like once a long time ago we had to have somebody sit in the cab and push the clutch pedal then wiggle the trans to get the shaft to go into the bronze bushing but that's been a long time ago. Anybody ever had this happen? I tried to load some pictures but it says file size is too big. I'll keep trying. Thanks in advance! .....Joe
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first...did you check the clutch disc and make sure it slid over the input shaft before you bolted it up under the pressure plate? also maybe a little grease on the input shaft?...just enough to make it shiny so the disc will slide on it.....did you line the disc up with a clutch line up tool?.....also did you put the right size pilot shaft bushing in?.......hopefully these ideas will help.
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Sounds like the disc isn't lined up, did you use the line up tool when you installed the clutch and pressure plate??..
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Yes to all of the above. I actually had it all together but realized I had put the throw out bearing in backward when I put the engine in late last summer. Rather than pull the engine back out to fix the bearing problem I opted to pull the trans/transfer case. It all slid out just fine no problems. Just having trouble getting it back that last little bit. This truck has been down since Memorial weekend 2012 and I'm ready to get it finished and back on the road where it belongs! It's been one hurdle after another since I started this. If I ever get the transmission back in the rest is easy! ....Joe
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Well, should just slide right in if everything is lined up then, if you have someone push the clutch pedal the disc will move though, should just be able to rotate it a tad and the splines should slide right in..
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ok first make sure the clutch fork is on the pivot completely.....also apply some grease on the inside collar of the throw-out bearing....i am just naming off things i have seen before....it is also possible that the clutch fork could be slightly bent....hope this helps...i know it can get frustrating.
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I greased up everything well before reassembly. I also put a brand new fork in while I was at it, so it better not be bent or O'Reilly is going to have one irate customer on their hands! Something has to be out of line somewhere. I think I'll get under it this weekend with my machinist calipers and measure trans face to bell house at all 4 corners and see what I come up with. I thought that I had it straight enough to get it started in the bushing but maybe not. I'm not even sure if its into the clutch disc. I have pictures on my phone of what I've got but can't upload them because it says file size is too big. I'll see if I can get some with my camera to post up when I get the time. Thanks for the suggestions because I might forget about something simple that's fuggin up the whole thing! ...Joe
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Are you sure the bushing is the right size? Too small an ID and it's not going in for anything.
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At 1.33" off you are into the splines on the clutch disc but not into the pilot bushing. Could someone have pushed the clutch in and the disc is off center now? I have had a third person help by pushing the clutch in while under the truck pushing the trans into place. My $02...
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At 1.33" off you are into the splines on the clutch disc but not into the pilot bushing. Could someone have pushed the clutch in and the disc is off center now? I have had a third person help by pushing the clutch in while under the truck pushing the trans into place. My $02...
hey ive done that two... idk about a "third" person usually a clutch job is a one person job... anyways the trick with pressing the clutch is to press it ever so slightly.. just enough to get it to move... if you press it all the way it may just fall and youŽll have to take out the tranny again and reposition the clutch... been there done that...
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By meaning 3rd person, I am an old man and being a 4x4 that would be a lot for just me to handle.. So I would enlist a 2nd person under the truck
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The bushing is the right size. This whole thing was all together at one point. After I didn't have enough clutch pedal and trying to figure out why, I discovered the bearing was backward from some of my disassembly and reassembly pictures I took when I pulled out my stock but worn out 305 and installed my 355. That's how I got into this mess! I replaced 2 bad parts (clutch fork and throw out bearing) and now I can't get it to go in all the way. Not yet anyway. I measured with my machinist calipers what felt like a thousand times today and actually got it in there a little bit more. I'm in at 1.125 (1 1/8 inches) and we have stopped moving again. I measured one last time before I called it quits today and I'm off center again side to side. Passenger side is at 1.094 now so I need to straighten that out before I try to move it any further. I ran some longer bolts in it, one on each side, left at the top, and right at the bottom to help coax it in. I don't like doing this since it would be easy to strip the threads in the aluminum bell housing. Once the driver side started getting too tight, I quit. Think I'll start next time with leveling and straightening it up best I can then see if I can somehow get a straight pull on it from the back end around the transfer case and see if I can pull it in the rest of the way with my come a long. Wish me luck, and I'm always open to suggestions! .....Joe
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Oh yeah BTW the clutch isn't hooked up yet. Had to take it off to get the fork out of the bell housing which was NO fun since I had to take it off the engine block!
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ok another thing to try(don't know if you did this yet)...put the transmission in gear...keep a jack under the transmission....put your foot or feet on the back of the transfer case.....while bracing yourself so you don't slide back shake the transfer side to side and up and down as you are pushing it with your foot...alot of times the problem can be is that the transmission isn't lined up perfectly....it might look straight but it really isn't....wish you were closer...i would come help....let me know.
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I haven't tried that yet but I will just to see what happens. I know it has to be getting close. It's just a matter of getting it lined up straight and into the bushing I'm sure. I'm not sure when I'll have time to mess with it again but as soon as I do I'll post what happens. Thanks! .....Joe
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You shouldn't have to force it. If everything lines up try to put it in gear in4x2 and spin the back tire a little with that leverage it should move a little
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There's something binding if you have to use force, it should just slide right in if everything is lined up the way it should be..
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At 1.33" off you are into the splines on the clutch disc but not into the pilot bushing. Could someone have pushed the clutch in and the disc is off center now? I have had a third person help by pushing the clutch in while under the truck pushing the trans into place. My $02...
I am telling you if it was together once before your clutch disc is not centered. Hook up the clutch linkage like I suggested... been there done that..
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It has a hydraulic clutch. I know it has to be perfectly in line before its going to slide the rest of the way and I don't have it perfectly aligned yet top to bottom or side to side. Think ill start as has been suggested by getting it all in line best as I can then try to push it in from behind. If that doesn't work I'll have somebody push the clutch pedal and see what happens. It is eventually going to have to go in whether it wants to or not! ....Joe
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Get one of these $3.00 items and and line it up and it'll slide right in.
(http://www.germansupply.com/home/image.php?productid=16834)
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Make sure the centerline of the crank and the trans input are in line with each other. Sometimes you have to drop the back of the motor or raise the front of the trans.
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Chris I think that's the main problem I'm having. I have an angle finder but I'm trying to figure out a way or a spot to measure on the transmission that would be centered with the input shaft on the transmission. Engine is easy since the pan rail is parallel to the crankshaft. Is there a spot on the trans that's suitable to measure from? .....Joe
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It doesn't have to be perfect, just close. I just eyeballed it till it looked right.
If you have to get it measure from the bell on the trans to the bell mount on the engine, make sure all of them are the same top to bottom.
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a jack under both so you can move one or the other up or down just keep in mind the distributor cap hitting the firewall
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I took the distributor out before I dropped the trans out so no worries there. It may be a little bit before I can get back under the truck as I had a heart attack on Thursday and I'm still recuperating. I'll post again as soon as I'm able to. I appreciate the help and info! That's why I love this site so much! Lots of great people here! .....Joe
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Glad to here your doing better since the attack. Take your time with it
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Sorry to hear about the attack, take it easy and hope you get well soon..
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Well guys I finally have an update! It's back in, and all in one piece again and running! This is how I did it after much head scratching and plenty of help from you all. Saturday I just got to the pinnacle of frustration with it so I pulled the whole mess back out. Checked the clutch alignment with my plastic tool. Everything was still in line. So what I did was put my angle finder on the back of the bell housing to see where the engine was at subtracted 90 degrees and came up with 15 degrees for the crank centerline. Next, I checked the angle of the input shaft and checked the rib on the outside of the transmission on the driver side. It was within 2 degrees so I figure I could wiggle it that much if need be. So, I started jacking up the 2 jacks I was using. One under the transmission, and the other under the tail shaft on the transfer case. Hooked a chain around the front axle next to the pumpkin. Put a come a long on the front trans jack at one end and the chain at the other. Started inching it in and adjusting the jacks to keep it at 15 degrees ( had the angle finder on trans rib the whole time ) once it got to where it was 3/4 inch or so out, I needed to re-adjust the trans transfer angle a bit. I did that and POP she went! I heard and saw it line up. At that point I started the bell housing bolts all in and inched it in the rest of the way with them. Jacked the back the rest of the way up got my impact out and the new grade 8 bolts that I bought for it and it was a done deal! Put the rest of it back together got it running and moved it under its own power for the first time in over a YEAR! What a relief! Thank God this nightmare is over! I learned a lot from this little experience and hope some day this post helps someone else! Now I need to change the oil and filter and do some fine tuning and hit the road!!! Many thanks to all of you great board members here. I'm so glad this place exists! My battery was dead when I started it up today. I noticed the choke light on the dash was on without the ignition being on. I figured this had to have been the culprit. Don't know why the choke light is always on now. Any ideas? Thanks guys! .....Joe