73-87chevytrucks.com
73-87 Chevy _ GMC Trucks => Engine/Drivetrain => Topic started by: myersdp85 on June 30, 2013, 10:11:09 am
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Ok so im tired of beating my head into the wall to try and figure this out. Ive got a 85 chevy k10 with a 10 bolt rear. A while ago i put new tires on and the the guys i took it to ended up breaking a wheel stud on one of the rear drum brakes. I have a new stud but my problem is that i cant get my drum off to press the old out and get the new one in. I know that there are supposed to be some kind of brake pad adjuster that you can use to release the pads and slide the drum off but i cant find any way to do that. there are no holes or plugs or anything on the back or the front of the drum. and before you guys say im not looking in the right place i took some pictures for you guys.
(http://i1225.photobucket.com/albums/ee394/Beta_trials/0615131908a.jpg) (http://s1225.photobucket.com/user/Beta_trials/media/0615131908a.jpg.html)
(http://i1225.photobucket.com/albums/ee394/Beta_trials/0615131908.jpg) (http://s1225.photobucket.com/user/Beta_trials/media/0615131908.jpg.html)
(http://i1225.photobucket.com/albums/ee394/Beta_trials/0615131907.jpg) (http://s1225.photobucket.com/user/Beta_trials/media/0615131907.jpg.html)
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Sure it's the brake lining that's holding it up?, looks to me like the drum is rusted to the axle, might want to squirt some PB Blaster and let it sit for a while or use a little heat, should pop right off.
Myself I'd take it back to the ones that broke it and make them fix it.
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Spray something into each lug hole and around the axle, then hit it with a good size hammer in between each lug. If it still won't come free for you use a block of steal and the same big hammer on the back side at 3:00 and 9:00. If you end up forcing it all the way off make sure you didn't damage any of the brake hardware (springs and pins).
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Look at your third image...
(http://i1225.photobucket.com/albums/ee394/Beta_trials/0615131907.jpg) (http://s1225.photobucket.com/user/Beta_trials/media/0615131907.jpg.html)
At the 5:30 position there's a 1" long oval "knockout." Do just that. Use a punch and hammer and knock it out. It's through the resulting hole that you adjust brake shoe clearance. Turn the adjuster up to back it off. You may have to insert a small hook through the adjuster hole and pull the adjuster lever away from the adjuster cog while you back off the adjustment. Check the drum for excessive wear before reusing it.
To free the drum from the flange, do as Thirsty instructed...
Spray something into each lug hole and around the axle [pilot], then hit it with a good size hammer in between each lug. If it still won't come free for you use a block of steel and the same big hammer on the back side at 3:00 and 9:00. If you end up forcing it all the way off make sure you didn't damage any of the brake hardware (springs and pins).
When you put it back together after replacing the broken stud, install three lug nuts backwards against the drum to secure the drum tight to the axle flange before adjusting the shoes. You may also want to wire brush then grease the studs before reinstalling the wheel. Have no fear of the lug nuts backing off with grease on the threads, because its distortion of the tapered lug nut seat that retains the lug nut.
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Sure it's the brake lining that's holding it up?, looks to me like the drum is rusted to the axle, might want to squirt some PB Blaster and let it sit for a while or use a little heat, should pop right off.
Myself I'd take it back to the ones that broke it and make them fix it.
I dont know exactly whats holding it up im only making assumptions at this point. This is the first time i have ever messed with drum brakes before so it a bit of a learning curve for me.
As far as the taking back to have the guys who broke it fix it they went out of buisness shortly after i had my tires done as they were not getting enough business.
Im going to try and tear into it this weekend since i got some time and ill use the advice you guys gave me and ill let you know what happens!
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Most of these drums are stuck right where the arrows point sand paper the hub in that area then hit it with your favorite rust buster . You will probably still need a hammer to "Jar" it loose . But put the claw hammer back on the bench and grab 2 or 3 pound hammer .
(http://i1310.photobucket.com/albums/s653/furdbarful/0615131907_zpsa48590f1.jpg)
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