73-87chevytrucks.com
73-87 Chevy _ GMC Trucks => Engine/Drivetrain => Topic started by: blazing816 on August 13, 2013, 02:44:23 pm
-
Okay I have been hamming around with finding new axles for my build cause 3.08 are not going to work. I am going to be putting a 350 or 355 in the truck with a 700r4 and np208. I was really trying to find a full floater with 3.73 gears, because I really didn't want to get raped on the highway as much, but still be able to tow better then 3.08. Because anywhere I drive from my house is 55mph county roads and I do amount of freeway driving, but about 3 times a year a tow a 4500lbs tongue tow camper, I am trying to get an even medium between the too, because the 3.08 are bad when towing the camper up hills or dead stop (plus its a 305).
My question is if I went to 4.10 with a 700r4, would it really be much difference on the highway over the 3.73?? because I am having a hard time find axles with the 3.73 for both front and rear, find a million 4.10s (little over stated...lol).
Any input would be greatly appreciated.
-
What size tires you running and what stall converter?
-
I prob be running 31s....at most 33s. I do not know what stall cause the truck aint built yet, I am just trying to get all the parts in order, because I am re coated the frame and making it a rolling chassis then re-do the body and put it on. I do not have the engine yet, but I do have the 700r4 and np208, just haven't looked at it to see the year or the condition.
-
4.10s and 2000-2200 rpm stall would be perfect with the 33's, that's the same setup I'm going for.
-
Your fuel mileage will be better with 3.73s, but since you are running an OD transmission I'd certainly go 4.10s.
-
with the 4.10 you will be about 2k with the 33s and the 3.73 you will be about 1800 going 60. being a 305 i would op for the 4.10 to help you take off better
-
If you are going to tow 4500lbs only every 4 months, then i would leave everything the way it is.
-
with the 4.10 you will be about 2k with the 33s and the 3.73 you will be about 1800 going 60. being a 305 i would op for the 4.10 to help you take off better
It will have a 350 in it.....(its my current truck that has the 305 th350 and 3.08, and it is rough towing my camper). That's why I was asking on here because I am trying to get my new one better at towing, without totally raping me at the gas pump when I am not towing.
But I might hold off and see if I can find some 3.73, sense I do not have to have them for the build right now anyways. Thanks for everyone's input.
-
you only talking about 200 rpm difference between the 3:73 and the 4:10,not enough to make much difference in highway mileage,but with the overdrive probable bring your shift points back to stock.the lower end will help that transmission live longer by increasing torque multiplication.
-
Okay thanks for the answer. If I can get my hands on a dana 60 rear is that "better" (strong, etc) then the corporate 14 bolt full floater??
-
the 14 bolt will handle pretty much what you can throw at it. you can get away with a dana 44 or Corporate 10 bolt up front and 14 bolt in the rear. this setup is very common and its what i run on my 79 and can mud most times with out a problem the only thing i have a problem with is the left front axle shaft. but you wont have a problem with it and its a 4.10. the dana 60 will be priced 600+ for a front (dont know on rear 60 never priced them
) to get a matching set you can look at 1k if you go the dana 44/10 bolt and 14 bolt FF you can maybe touch 500 i got mine for 200 i think max 300
-
The reason I ask, I am looking at a rolling chassis, that is 3/4 axles (do not know if frame is 3/4) with 4in lift (can't tell if its a full springs or blocks in rear) and it supposedly has a dana 60 rear and dana 44 front. I have never seen that combo of 60 and 44, usually if the 44 I see 14b ff. But I am trying to get a hold of the guy cause its only $200 for all of it. So I hoping the gears are 3.73. or 4.10, and not 4.56 or something like that because I still want to take it on the highway.
-
Well pretty sure guy does not know what he is selling (which could be good for me....may get it cheaper). The rear looks like a 14bolt ff to me and the front could be a dana 44 or corporate 10 bolt depending on the year of the axles, do not have a good enough pic of front to tell. And what I know the corporate 10 and dana 44 from our trucks are pretty much the same expect the 44 using 30 spline axles and 10b using 28, so some same 44 is stronger because of it.
Anyways can any one confirm that the below is a 14 bolt and not a dana 60 rear??
(http://i1219.photobucket.com/albums/dd435/blazing816/rearaxle_zpse7cd734b.jpg) (http://s1219.photobucket.com/user/blazing816/media/rearaxle_zpse7cd734b.jpg.html)
-
Defiantly a 14ff, the only way this could have a 60 under it is if somebody custom made one, our trucks never came with a 60 rear from the factory and the first year for the 60 up front is 77 which is also the first year for chevy 1 ton 4X4.
-
Defiantly a 14ff, the only way this could have a 60 under it is if somebody custom made one, our trucks never came with a 60 rear from the factory and the first year for the 60 up front is 77 which is also the first year for chevy 1 ton 4X4.
Sweet thanks....that's what I thought. Now I just have to hope the guys calls me back. I called him this morning and still haven't heard anything.
-
well for one the dana 60 i think only has 10 bolts on the cover lol but the 60 afaik did come in the rear of some trucks even pre 73. but i think they where mainly in vans, maybe burbs? when i do think of 60s i think of dodges for some odd reason lol. and it does look like a 44 hard to say but a 10 bolt will have ears that stick out on the bottom corners of the differential. how much?
-
...how much?
It was $200 for the rolling chassis with the 4" lift. But he deleted it yesterday evening.....so he otherwise sold it or realized he did not know what he had.
-
dang that sucks. wonder how he knew what ratio he had, i bet someone jump on it as soon as he said dana 60 they knew he was a novice