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73-87 Chevy _ GMC Trucks => 73-87 Chevy & GMC Trucks => Topic started by: cwest on October 31, 2013, 06:22:19 pm
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Hey,
I just replaced a water pump in my 86' K20. Like a real numb-nut I didn't take before pics of everything. It all came apart great and went back together great-ish.. Except the skinny belt that runs the two pumps to the left of the alternator (looking at the front of the truck) is literally a fingernail away from the front of the alternator pulley. That seems a little close to me, and I can't remember if that's the way it was or if I'm missing something, or just routed the belts wrong. I'll post some pictures so there's no confusion. Would be great if someone could tell me if that's normal or if there's something I missed. Also, if I am missing something, a picture of the correct way the belts are suppose to lay would be awesome.
Thanks,
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maybe its me, maybe its the pictures, maybe its maybelline. but it looks almost like your water pump is the wrong one? is everything tight?
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It matched up exactly with the old one. I even had to transfer the studs and freeze plug from the old one and they all went right into place. I've put a socket on every nut n bolt that I can see touch or smell and they're all tight. I dunno, I'll just fire it up and see what happens.. Famous last words. If anyone has a belt diagram or a picture from a stock model that would still be awesome!
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It looks like your alternator belt is whipped/stretched/ to long if the belt was shorter the pulley would be pulled up and out of the way. I noticed your at the end of adjustment on your alternator nut that tightens the belt.
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It looks like your alternator belt is whipped/stretched/ to long if the belt was shorter the pulley would be pulled up and out of the way. I noticed your at the end of adjustment on your alternator nut that tightens the belt.
X2
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It looks like your alternator belt is whipped/stretched/ to long if the belt was shorter the pulley would be pulled up and out of the way. I noticed your at the end of adjustment on your alternator nut that tightens the belt.
X2
Although the existing alternator belt is too long, a shorter belt will move the alternator pulley down and closer to the water pump, dropping the alternator pulley further behind the neighboring belt.
>>> cwest
Belt spacing is controlled by the center-to-center spacing of the w/p pulley grooves. The mounting of the belt-driven accessories should mimic the w/p pulley belt spacing, so that all of the belts are parallel. But, if the w/p flange height is incorrect, it will position the belts too far forward or aft and the drive belts will engage the accessory pulleys at an angle.
To verify the correct w/p flange height, place a 12" or longer straight edge across the face of the frontmost w/p pulley, a little below the lip of the pulley groove, such that the straightedge extends toward the smog pump pulleys. The straightedge should align with the front of the smog pump pulleys. With a little less precision, you can also align your eye into the plane of the front of the water pump pulley to see whether the smog pump pulleys align in the same plane. If the pulley grooves align and are parallel, and the smog pump belt isn't dragging the front of the alternator pulley, you can rest at ease and run it.
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It looks like your alternator belt is whipped/stretched/ to long if the belt was shorter the pulley would be pulled up and out of the way. I noticed your at the end of adjustment on your alternator nut that tightens the belt.
this was my first thought also. but after sitting here looking at the pictures i came up with the same thing bd said. it would pull the alt down. the reason i was saying it wasnt the right pump is because the pump belt looks like its twisted a little near the water pump pully
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Hey guys, thanks for the good input. I lessened the tension a little on the alternator and smog belts, and that made enough separation between the belt and alternator pulley to make me feel safe. I took her out last night and everything ran fine.
One more questions. I ran it with water in the system so if any leaks were present I wouldn't have to drain all of the expensive radiator fluid. Luckily it appears to be all good. My question is when I bought the truck the guy briefly mentioned that the truck takes "the real stuff" in terms of antifreeze. Did he mean I should be running straight antifreeze and not 50/50? I know most modern engines take 50/50 just fine, I'm just not sure about old school 350's..
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I think he was referring to undiluted "green" vs. premixed extended life antifreeze.
Mixing rules haven't changed. Run 50/50 to 60/40 antifreeze-to-water; premix is generally 50/50. Use the mixture ratio chart printed on most antifreeze containers if purchasing straight, undiluted antifreeze.
The only caution IMO is to avoid the extended life coolant, because of its propensity to seep from earlier generation cooling systems. Hence, use "the real stuff."
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Cool. Much appreciated