73-87chevytrucks.com
73-87 Chevy _ GMC Trucks => Performance => Topic started by: Skyshadow on February 11, 2014, 11:43:50 pm
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*this is meant to be a sharing of ideas while being a demonstration and test of those ideas*
It's a simple principle, The less work a motor has to do, the more efficient and powerful it will be. Technically speaking, more power is not produced but power is being "freed" up. For example, if you take a truck that has 250hp and weighs 3000lbs and drop 300lbs from the truck, it can now do everything better (accel, brake turn etc). Another great added bonus from this is less fuel consumption.
That being said, I have some plans to improve the efficiency in my truck. But, I would love to hear any ideas anyone on here has to help me improve the efficiency of my truck.
This will be a long term project, but I promise it wont get too stagnant.
Current baseline of the truck and it's mods are as follows. (baseline Mpg:TBD,1/4mi:TBD)
-dual tanks removed, 15.5Gal keg tank installed
-2003 Vortec 5.3L w/4L63 trans
-long tube headers
-Dodge Ram 20" steelies
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ok ill bite. yes the less weight a motor has to push the better mpgs. if you loose your spare tire and jack, tool box, (maybe) tail gate, steel when it can be replaced with fiberglass. and a gal of gas weighs 6.3lbs so if you only fill your tank up half way you can take off 50-60 lbs. but if you blow a tire, run out of gas or break down your going to half to call someone for help. if you can keep your truck out of the power band at higher rpms then you can also save, if you can cruise at 55-60 and only be taching 1500-160-0 if can also save
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Zero first hand experience, but I say work on less rotational mass throughout the drivetrain. I know jack about metallurgy but going to lighter weight engine internals like rods, pistons, valves, flywheel/flexplate etc.. would make the engine not have to work as hard. A lighter wheel and tire combo would be something to consider.
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with the tires, less rolling resistance will help also
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Electric fan.
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synthetic oils will help with less drag on the powertrain. tires aired to proper level. a vacuum gas helps you keep your foot off the throttle but keeping you vacuum numbers high. fresh tune-up.
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x2 on synthetic oils. Synthetic engine oil, synthetic ATF, and synthetic P/S fluid reduce friction and heat a lot. BTDT, won't go back.
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Irish Alley, i'm not planning on doing half ass things like removing needed materials or only running with half a tank of gas. ;D
I do like the ideas of better internals such as a better cam. But think the cost makes that upgrade out of reach as of right now. I have a '03 Vortec 5.3 paired with a 4L63, so I'm already comparably more efficient than the original motor. I think i will add an electric fan to the to do list.
Rotating mass is a big one for me as well. I have Dodge 20" spares, so they are pretty light. I am planning on getting a lightweight driveshaft as well. To caveat that, I am planning swapping to a newer model rear axle with disc brakes and higher gears.
As for syn fluids, I'm going to do a fluid flush and run Royal Purple oil, trans and third member fluids.
Good start to ideas, keep them coming. I will try to keep as much data logged as possible for before and after specs of any mods done.
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Electric everything, fuel pump, water, oil. Get rid of every pulley that you can. Haven't tried any of those things but in theory, it seems like it would work.
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Shave 10lbs and get a mini starter.
Aside from the rolling weight there are other benefits. Have you ever had to creeper under a truck and remove a 20lb starter? After about 5 minutes it feels about like 75lbs.
Tubular upper/lower control arms. Lightweight cross member. Alloy rims.
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An aluminum driveshaft from a diesel or carbon fiber if you are feeling spunky (and wealthy)
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2 cents here. Royal purple engine oil is freaking amazing. Love it and use it in my engine. The trans and rear diff fluid I'm not sure about tho. I have heard people have burned up transmissions with the royal purple fluid. ****not sure how much fact there is in that tho****. Best advice is use standard GM Dex 6 auto trans fluid. Not Kragens Dex 6 version or something like that but actual GM/ AC Delco Dex 6. The best possible fluid to use in gm transmissions and power steering system. Use it in my steering and trans and my trans is built to handle 500 hp.
I second the aluminum drive shaft. I'm also getting one of those soon.
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Read this:
http://www.oldsmobility.com/old/carlife_apr67.htm
The impression i'm getting is that they want low RPM, not because that in itself saves gas, but lower rpm means LESS FRICTION, which requires less energy, which requires less fuel.
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Read this:
http://www.oldsmobility.com/old/carlife_apr67.htm
The impression i'm getting is that they want low RPM, not because that in itself saves gas, but lower rpm means LESS FRICTION, which requires less energy, which requires less fuel.
but lower rpm means LESS FRICTION, which requires less energy, which requires less fuel.
I do not have to read that link to agree with that statement. Anybody who understands chemical/mechanical energy and how that converts to rotational energy would agree with that statement.