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73-87 Chevy _ GMC Trucks => Brakes, Frame, Steering & Suspension => The Lows (Lowering/Drops) => Topic started by: BADAZ chevy guy on March 29, 2014, 08:41:07 pm

Title: Flip kit calculations.
Post by: BADAZ chevy guy on March 29, 2014, 08:41:07 pm
Just wondering how much drop I can expect by moving the rear axle to the top of the leaf springs, And still using stock shackles and rear hanger? 1977 C10, 12 bolt dif. It's a heavy half, but I'm taking out the helper spring.
Title: Re: Flip kit calculations.
Post by: HAULIN IT on March 30, 2014, 07:19:05 am
6 1/2" is a pretty good figure. Measure the leaf pack for an accurate number. The axle tube is 3", the perch adds a 1/2"...plus adding the additional 1/2" to the bottom side when doing the flip, so that's 4" plus the spring thickness. Lorne 
Title: Re: Flip kit calculations.
Post by: Irish_Alley on March 30, 2014, 08:32:10 am
if you remove springs you will raise the truck (after the flip)
Title: Re: Flip kit calculations.
Post by: HAULIN IT on March 30, 2014, 04:10:31 pm
if you remove springs you will raise the truck (after the flip)
Really? Want to re-think that?
Title: Re: Flip kit calculations.
Post by: Irish_Alley on March 30, 2014, 09:30:04 pm
if the springs are bolted from the bottom (after the flip) and you remove a top spring it will pull the bottom spring up(that bolts to the shackle). if its the helper springs they will not effect the height till you put a load on it. so its just acting like a spacer, not unless im not seeing the whole picture i stand by that statement till someone proves me wrong ;) if you where to put a block in after the flip you will lower the truck, so if you take  the block out you will raise the truck. now granted you have to excuse my crude drawling and the fact that the one only has one leaf spring. but if its a spring with a Zero Rate its the same ideal.
Title: Re: Flip kit calculations.
Post by: BADAZ chevy guy on March 30, 2014, 09:51:21 pm
I'm thinkin' the only difference removing the helper spring would make is before I did the flop. It would lower the truck the thickness of that leaf is all. But once I move the axle to the top all removing it will do is give the truck a softer ride. Also. I'm not going to spend a lot of money on a commercial flip kit. I'm going to get a set of heavy spring purches from the local trailer supply shop, cut the stock perches off and weld new ones on the bottom of the axle tubes. I just need so set it up on stands so I can keep the same drive train angles.
Title: Re: Flip kit calculations.
Post by: Irish_Alley on March 30, 2014, 10:10:00 pm
if its a "helper spring" its only active when you are loaded. but if you removed it before the flop you wouldnt change anything since the main spring is sitting on the axle if you flip it the axle would be sitting on the helper spring. if you remove it then your axle would pull the springs up that thickness this would pull the rest of the truck up. it would be very small but when your asking about how much of a drop you would get i thought i would throw it out there.
Title: Re: Flip kit calculations.
Post by: BADAZ chevy guy on March 30, 2014, 10:22:06 pm
if its a "helper spring" its only active when you are loaded. but if you removed it before the flop you wouldnt change anything since the main spring is sitting on the axle if you flip it the axle would be sitting on the helper spring. if you remove it then your axle would pull the springs up that thickness this would pull the rest of the truck up. it would be very small but when your asking about how much of a drop you would get i thought i would throw it out there.

I thought the helper spring was on the BOTTOM of the spring pack. Just above the axle tube. No?
Title: Re: Flip kit calculations.
Post by: HAULIN IT on March 31, 2014, 07:24:29 pm
Irish, Follow along...I've never seen a leaf spring stacked upside down (main leaf on the bottom) like in your drawing...definitely NOT on a '73-'87 GM truck. Go look under your truck & report back ;)
So the number of leaves or thickness under the main leaf doesn't have anything to do with the outcome once the flip is performed...if anything, removing say one or two out of the heavy half pack has to lower the truck farther due to the less springs to hold up the same amount of weight. Agree? Lorne

(http://i163.photobucket.com/albums/t285/HAULINIT/truckrearsuspension019.jpg) (http://s163.photobucket.com/user/HAULINIT/media/truckrearsuspension019.jpg.html)
 
Title: Re: Flip kit calculations.
Post by: Irish_Alley on March 31, 2014, 08:24:31 pm
lmao yup, i see what your saying dont know what the heck i was thinking. now you see why i thought what i thought. the only thing i can think of that made me think of that is the helper spring bolts to the top of spring pack (http://www.sdtrucksprings.com/images/super-spring-no-over.jpg)
and thinking this i was thinking the bolting the axle on top of that. but you cant and that wouldnt make any sense. thanks for pointing me in the right directions guys
Title: Re: Flip kit calculations.
Post by: BADAZ chevy guy on April 01, 2014, 01:20:26 pm
That's NOT the 'Helper' spring I was talking about anyway. I was talking about removing the lower heavy spring shown in the Yellow portion of that drawing
Title: Re: Flip kit calculations.
Post by: Irish_Alley on April 01, 2014, 11:01:30 pm
lol see this is where i was getting my confusion from.  ::)
Title: Re: Flip kit calculations.
Post by: dvdswan on April 03, 2014, 04:55:42 pm
I hope you're going to correct your pinion angle.
Title: Re: Flip kit calculations.
Post by: BADAZ chevy guy on April 03, 2014, 07:43:50 pm
Yes on the Pinion angle.
My plan is to get 2 spring perch's from the local trailer supply shop for a 3" axle tube. Then bolt up the assembly with the axle's on top of the spring and the new perch's under it. Not tight, just enough to hold everything together and still able to turn the axle tube. Then (with weight on the truck) rotate the axle until the pinion angle is right and tack weld the perch's in a few spots. Then disassemble and finish weld the perch's in place, grind off the original perch's and paint.
Title: Re: Flip kit calculations.
Post by: Captkaos on April 03, 2014, 08:09:20 pm
Depending on the kit, lately some are more like 5" instead, but plan on 6" if you really want to know you need the dimensions on the flip bracket.
Title: Re: Flip kit calculations.
Post by: LeftysRodandCustom on April 29, 2014, 10:44:17 am
So i just did the flip kit on mine and have it mocked up with the weight of the truck sitting on it. If my pinion angle is off whats the best way to correct it? All i can see is either shims under the flip bracket, or grind the surface of the flip bracket where it meets the original spring perch. Any thoughts?
Title: Re: Flip kit calculations.
Post by: BADAZ chevy guy on April 29, 2014, 06:51:16 pm
How far off is it? In deg?
Title: Re: Flip kit calculations.
Post by: LeftysRodandCustom on May 02, 2014, 11:29:24 am
Running close to level at this point. Drive shaft is maybe 2 degrees down from front to back.
Title: Re: Flip kit calculations.
Post by: Captkaos on May 02, 2014, 11:44:32 am
Are you measuring the angle or guessing.  Long bed, short bed, one piece or two piece driveshaft....  need more info
Title: Re: Flip kit calculations.
Post by: LeftysRodandCustom on May 02, 2014, 12:59:05 pm
Short bed, one piece driveshaft measures 62.5" due to the M21 trans. And its a guess at this point since I havent bought the tool yet to measure. The pinion is level to slighly positive in angle. Its not finding the angle that I'm worried about, it's how to get there. Whether it would be better to shim the brackets on the spring or to grind down the leading edge where it cups into the original spring perch on the bottom side so that it rides more at a downward angle on the flip bracket. Neither scares me to do, just not sure which would be better.
Title: Re: Flip kit calculations.
Post by: Captkaos on May 05, 2014, 06:57:59 pm
IF it needs shims use a wedge under the mount.  It should be pointed up some.  Generally shortbeds don't need shims and the flip is engineered to compensate for the pinion.