73-87chevytrucks.com
73-87 Chevy _ GMC Trucks => Performance => Topic started by: travisr1988 on April 25, 2014, 12:53:16 am
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Okay, so I decided to start an engine build thread for my first build.
So far I have the short block nearly ready. (1979 block)
I'm using a sealed power crank, sealed power rings and bearings, .030 over flat tops with 4 valve reliefs, stock rods, melling oil pump/pickup/screen, spectre oil pan, and an off the shelf double roller timing set.
My cam is from Lunati's Voodoo line, part #10120701LK which comes with lifters. Specs are 256/262 Adv. dur. 213/219@.050 .454/.468 lift 112LSA/108ICA.
My heads are remanufactured vortec 062 castings
Intake is an Edelbrock Performer 2116
Using a quadrajet
This is supposed to be a budget build and reliable while still making good torque and power.
Eventually I'll invest in a set of Dougs or Hedman Elite ceramic coated headers but with a new born baby they will have to wait.
I am aware that I need to check clearances on the heads(need to buy tool for proper measurement), and may need to order the spring kit from alexsparts.com or use beehive springs. Least expensive without machining while being reliable is best.
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Good start from the way it sounds. Well matched parts for the result you are looking for. Just a hunch here, but is that spectre pan a chrome one? If it is be sure to grind the chrome off the sealing surface and save yourself the headache later.
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My dad is reluctantly helping me and would never allow me to put chrome on my engine, so the oil pan is black...as will everything else except maybe the intake...still contemplating painting it black or leaving it natural.
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I like them natural, and thats how i like any aluminum part for that matter. And he's right there, chrome dont get ya home.
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Most of the aftermarket pans that are chrome that I have seen used lately don't last very long... And when it lets go, you can't just shoot some rattle can on it and be done.
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Yeah i prefer a nice aluminum look over chrome any day, alot of times chrome ends up looking cheap. Anyways for an update I'm waiting for payday so I can get the rocker arms, gaskets, bolts, water pump, oil pickup screen, and a few other odds and ends to finish the motor. Then when payday comes around again I should be able to get the exhaust and tail lights so I can drive it.
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I ran my last 350 with flat top pistons and no valve reliefs for over 100k miles. I use a short piston and 6.0 rods. I had it punched one night, it slipped out of 3rd, and over rev'd breaking a piece of the piston off. My latest build of the same block I used Sealed Power H140CL with two valve reliefs. I can tell it's down in power by at least 30 horses. IMO, running as high a compression as you can, is free horsepower. It's not that hard to tighten up your distributor to limit the total timing to eliminate predetonation. I see nothing wrong with your blueprinting, but for all your efforts you may as well have the 30 more horses. Just sayin...
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Well, assuming I measured the piston valve reliefs wrong(2cc) and they are actually the common 5cc, and assuming deck height is .025-.040 and assuming the heads are truly 64cc then with a standard head gasket that puts me @ 9.4-9.8:1 compression which means I'll probably need to run 91 octane gas. Now my brothers truck is running around 9.5:1 and he can run on regular 87 but not great. He. prefers 91. His is a blueprint 357 shortblock with summit 64cc heads and 5cc valve relief pistons from what I understand.
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When you say remanufactured vortec heads, have they been surfaced or just a valve job? They started life as a 64cc head no doubt about it, but may be smaller now. You'll probably want the 91 octane fuel either way really. Compression can and does play a huge part power wise in and engine but it doesnt mean anything if it wont flow. The vortec head is and excellent head right out of the box so I wouldnt get hung up on a couple tenths worth on the ratio. You can pick up the extra power with some bolt ons later. Maybe a good set of roller rockers and a light balancer to get some quicker revs, but as for your current setup I think you'll be pleased because you didnt get all crazy in one department without matching the rest. My personal preference would be a holley but if you can tune that q-jet theres plenty of power to be had from it. Keep us updated.
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They were remanufactured from advance auto parts, the company that actually does the work is moore's cylinder heads, I am not sure if they surfaced them although it doesn't appear they have been.
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The deck on my 350 was resurfaced, and I am using Sportsman II heads. I don't recall what the deck clearance was, but I always assumed my first setup was above 10:1 compression. I rarely put 91 octane in it. It ran on 87 octane. With my current pistons as mentioned above, I must be around 9.6-9.8. I'm sure it would run faster with 91 octane, but it runs fine on 87. If I had it coupled to some weight then I could hear some detonation, but I would just back off the pedal until I had time to adjust the total timing. IMO, the compression ratio is worth more horsepower than advanced timing. I tell you what, run it down to near empty, put in 5 gallons of 87 and try it out. If it pings, tighten up the springs, and limit the total timing. If it still pings, then my engine is just an odd duck. You're going to have a nice engine for sure.
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So looking at the heads and the valveseals included in the gasket set...big difference. On theheads heads are these huge blue seals...in the kit are these smaller copper looking seals, the seals on the heads also don't appear to seat properly...ofcourse my brother insists they're right because a rebuilder would never put the wrong seals on. Anyways the height difference is clearly visible. I'm almost positive the seals in the kit are what's supposed to be on there.
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When you say they arent seating properly is that because they arent all at the same height on the bench? If I remember right they ride on the valve at about the full lift of the cam and shouldnt seat until the valves have been set
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They appear to be a fair distance away from the seat.
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Okay, assembled engine and checked clearances...all is good :)
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Ok so engine is ready to go in, old 6 banger is gone, now i have one thing bugging me...exhaust manifolds. Exhaust has not been built yet and the manifolds look ugly. So my question is what headers should i look for? Hedman patriot, and dougs are preferred brands. What headers fit good and don't hang below the frame?
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I have these in my '81 K20: Hedman 69897. I got tired of blowing collector gaskets. They use the bell land socket type joint that doesn't need a gasket. Check out this company: http://www.mandrelbendingsolutions.com. I went with stainless steel pipe 12 years ago, and it's still functioning. They probably already have a kit to fit your truck.
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UPDATE: Now that we got the hoist fixed the motor is in, all bolted up and ready for exhaust manifolds/headers (if I get some) accessories, and details, and ofcourse pre-lubing and firing it up to run the break in procedures. Waiting on a few odds and ends and we should be firing it soon.
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Okay, so the alternator, and exhaust manifolds went on today, only one issue. On the passenger side the exhaust manifold bolts up fine but the first spark plug is really close to the manifold...too close to get a boot on w/o melting it. Driver side looks fine, no clearance issues, on both manifolds all the bolts lined up and everything. Only problem is how close to the manifold the first (closest to front) spark plug on the passenger side is. Any advice? I may only need to use these manifolds for break in, as a set of headers looks to be in the near future.
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Alright, I have an update...finally gathered up most of the remaining parts. Engine is installed, I ended up buying some cheap used headers for the time being and the motor is ready. All I have left is to install the radiator and hoses, fresh gas, and once I get the transmission bolted to the crossmember I can tighten all the mount bolts and run the break in procedure. Then exhaust and transmission plumbing are next. We made sure it actually fires today and it sounded great for the 2 seconds we allowed it to run. Next week after payday The rest will be taken care of and with my dad's supervision again (so I don't overthink everything and worry too much) I'll be breaking it in and after that I'll get a video of it running. Man I'm excited :)
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Wow, so things came up and it took much longer than expected, but I now have an exhaust kit for it (that I have to modify) and it is ready for break in. Well, actually I started break in and quickily realized I need exhaust on it or risk the flames from the headers catching the truck on fire. Timing is good, carb is good, runs great, just has flames spitting from headers...I'm told that is normal when breaking in with open headers. Anyway, the exhaust is the dynomax kit, a crossover pipe and thrush welded mufflers. Should sound good with the welded.
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I know this thread is dead, but for the sake of keeping it updated I will post an update. The engine is now broken in, just needs some fine tuning, and to figure out how to seal up the dang collector flanges and it will be set.