73-87chevytrucks.com
73-87 Chevy _ GMC Trucks => Engine/Drivetrain => Topic started by: cwest on April 28, 2014, 08:33:45 pm
-
I'm doing an auto to manual swap on my 86 K20 4x4. I've got the auto out and am ready to start putting the manual parts in. There's a number of clutch sets available at the various auto parts stores and truck catalogs. The price ranges I found are $109 to over $300. Is there a good brand I should be looking for? Regular or HD clutch? Types of ceramics? I'm a practitioner of "you get what you pay for", so I usually just bite the bullet and get the pricier part, but I thought I'd let the forum weigh in before I started slinging plastic.
Also, I want to go the re-man route on the SM465. The one company I got a quote from is Man-trans out of Tallahassee. Their quote was ≈$1100 for a rebuilt 10 spline input, 32 spline output, without a core exchange, and residential delivery charge. Has anyone used this company or another company that sells 465 re-mans? Is that a competitive price and do they do good work? (all that jazz). I know this site sells parts too, is the clutch set and trans something that's sold here?
-
As far as the clutch goes, how are you going to be using your truck ? I always perfer the HD clutches. I have always had luck with the stage 2 clutches. Some say it is overkill, but letting my children use my trucks for learning how to drive clutch's and towing boats, I have never burned out a clutch.
This site does not sell transmissions as far as I know, but you can e-mail the store and Capt. can tell you for sure or if he is connected to any place that does.
Do you not want to rebuild yourself ? Manual transmission's are not that bad to rebuild.
-
I agree on the clutch as far as going with the HD, but in most any case with the chain auto parts stores the ones they sell are all lifetime warranty. Not that you'd feel any better about having to change one. As for the 465 does it not perform now? I've seen them to be near bullet proof.
-
The truck isn't thrashed 24/7 like a true work truck, but at the same time I don't baby it. It get loads of firewood when I find stashes on the side of the road and will be towing the occasional trailer. It definitely WILL NOT EVER be used as a "learn to drive stick" truck haha, I think I would have a heart attack:). My rear-end is the only one that touches the driver side vinyl bench. I was leaning towards an HD clutch anyway, but wanted to get some opinions first. Looks like I'm sold on HD.
Since I'm doing an auto to manual swap I don't have a SM465 to re-build. I just took the TH400 out and am looking to buy a re-maned 465 to put in its place (as opposed to one pulled from a junker). That's why I don't have a core exchange for the Man-trans people. I've got all the other parts though; hydro bell-housing, pedal assembly, master/slave cylinder, etc. Just need the clutch set and trans and I'll be in business!
-
In that case if you dont want one from a junkyard I'd say you have got all your ducks in a row. Do not forget the pilot bushing to be installed in the crankshaft.
-
Yep, a new pilot bushing comes with most clutch sets. I think the one I ordered today even has two different sizes.
-
Okay, so the clutch set I ordered has two of the same pilot bushings, but one has a little rod bearing thing inside and the other doesn't. Are these both to be put in the crankshaft? If so, which one goes in first? If not, which one is the better to use? The couple YouTube videos I've watched of clutch installs only had one bushing. Just to make it easier I included pics of both. The one on the left has the bearings and the other does not. It's my first ever clutch install so I'm probably going to be asking some pretty elementary stuff coming up.
-
Looks like it came with a bearing and a bushing. There are arguments as to what is better, looks like they let you choose.
-
how much power will your motor put out?
why not nv4500 for the od and its stronger?
the input splines on the sm465 (10) would be the weak link
i have a 465 in my mud truck with 40s 10 spline input and output, never had a problem with it. i also got the lifetime warranty clutch from autozone its only $110 and i havnt had a problem with it. been running it for 6 years or so on and off road even hauling stuff
-
Just a stock 350M, nothing fancy. My goal is to build a replica of my Grandpa's old truck. It had the 465 and is pretty much the start of my love for trucks, so I want to keep it the same. I've heard too the 465 shifts like a dump truck, whereas the 4500 shifts smoother like a car? Call me crazy but I like the nostalgia of an old school manual-trans where you have to put some arm into finding the gears, as opposed to running through the gears with your fingertips.
Another question. I got my flywheel in place yesterday and just plan on using the bolts that were used to secure the flex plate. Those bolts didn't have lock washers when I took them off. Do I need to procure lock washers for the flywheel? Its quite a bit heavier than the flex plate so I was wondering.
-
Flywheel bolts are ~0.320" longer than flexplate bolts! Use ARP #100-2801 (http://www.summitracing.com/parts/arp-100-2801/overview/make/chevrolet) 7/16" x 20 x 1" flywheel bolts without washers. Clean the threads with starter fluid or Berrymans B12 then use red Loctite and a torque wrench.
-
my 465 shift smooth (wife even learned how to drive it) if im not mistaken the nv4500 still shifts kind of hard. but if i had to choose i would go fo rthe 4500 just because of the OD and saving fuel farther down the line
-
Good point with the flywheel bolts, very important. I run the roller bearing pilot bushing in my truck. There no power advantage or anything like that from it. It's design is just to allow the the input shaft to free up easier when stepping in on the clutch. Either will work just fine
-
Either works. Most diesels from what I have seen used the roller pilot.
-
Thanks for the flywheel bolt info, guys, and the link, bd. As much as I would not like to buy new bolts, I don't want the darn flywheel coming loose. Sounds like their is no difference with the pilot bushings, maybe I'll just flip a coin. I'll probably try to tackle the whole clutch set this weekend, so stand by for more questions!
-
Thanks for the flywheel bolt info, guys, and the link, bd. As much as I would not like to buy new bolts, I don't want the darn flywheel coming loose. Sounds like their is no difference with the pilot bushings, maybe I'll just flip a coin. I'll probably try to tackle the whole clutch set this weekend, so stand by for more questions!
Regarding pilot bearing choice: generally, the needle bearing style is regarded as a heavier duty application. Regardless of which you use, be sure to smear ample grease to the ID of the bearing. Double check the fit of the bearing on the transmission input pilot before installation into the crankshaft, and that the bearing has a slight interference fit in the back of the crankshaft, so that it remains fixed in place.
-
Okay, I have the clutch set in, now just have some general questions about the release bearing and clutch fork. There is a little hump (pictured below) on the release bearing. I assume this has a function or it wouldn't be there. Does the hump need to be placed a specific way inside the fork?
-
Thats a new one to me, but i have a couple of stock ones laying around the shop since i use a hydraulic bearing. I'll check them out and get back to you, hopefully in time for it to matter.
-
All the onese I have ever used didn't have any hump. They were smooth all around. What is the application and who's kit?
-
I actually found the answer via YouTube. Sorry I should have posted it earlier. 5:33-6:10 explains it pretty well. It's there to keep that portion of the bearing from spinning in the fork. Other than just that section of the tutorial, the whole video is pretty informative.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=owcUNZmP8zI