73-87chevytrucks.com
73-87 Chevy _ GMC Trucks => Engine/Drivetrain => Topic started by: 78 Chevyrado on May 23, 2014, 04:36:48 pm
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Hey guys, this will be my what should I do thread. I'm about to sell off one of my tractors, my van and my impala. The 08 impala is junk and i wanna rid myself of it before something else happens.. Had bad alignment, wore out the tires, power door locks have quit on drivers side and two days ago drivers window came off the track and fell down in the door. fixed it, gotta get rid of it... oh yeah this car only has 24k miles on it.. eh.
So I'm gonna have some cash to pretty much finish off the truck.
I've redone the truck entirely, except the engine and trans haven't been touched or opened in any way except adding an edelbrock carb.
I now want to see about an engine and trans.
I've been looking at the GM Ramjet 350. I'm lazy now, and don't wanna do the leg work and mods to put an ls engine in it.
Haven't done any pricing around yet, I like to use summit to research stuff...
Ramjet 350
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/nal-12499120
GM Serpintine Kit
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/nal-12497698
I know I'll need a flexplate and electric fuel pump. also headers and exhaust.
What do you guys think of this setup? do okay in my truck? or should I get the 330hp gm crate engine and add
FAST EFI to it or something?
All ideas and comments welcome. Just now starting to think about all this
Go here to see the other mods I've made that might matter...
http://forum.73-87chevytrucks.com/smforum/index.php?topic=9090.270 (http://forum.73-87chevytrucks.com/smforum/index.php?topic=9090.270)
I'll need another Hi-Amp Alt.. how do I go about hooking up the newer small AC compressor to my stock lines. It's an AC truck, and I'm not changing the firewall or control parts.
Thanks guys
Kenny
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I think that's a nice choice, if a bit pricey.
My favorite setup is the base 350/260 hp engine with a better cam, headers, and dual-plane manifold. GM 10067353, Comp Cams 12-235-2, Hooker 2452 (C) or 2453 (K), and Edelbrock 2101. $2000.
Here's the specs on the two:
Ramjet 350: 400 lbft at 3500, 350 hp at 5200.
Re-cam base 350: 415 lbft at 2500, 290 hp at 4000.
Which do you think is the better street machine?
You will get a couple mpg more with the Ramjet 350. Figure 11-12 mpg highway/9-10 mpg city in a K truck with the recammed base engine (carbureted), and 2 mpg higher with the fuel injected Ramjet 350. C truck ought to be a couple mpg higher yet either way.
I have the Edelbrock 1406 tuning info for the recammed 350 setup, which saves a lot of dicking around and gets you spot on easy. Of course, with the fuel injected Ramjet 350, that is all baked in the cake with the controller.
Some people like the modern thing, some like the retro thing. Free country (still, mostly), so you pays your money and you takes your choice. Some other people on here have the recammed setup and like it, so it is not a shot in the dark if you want to save about $4500 all in.
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That all sounds good so far. I would suggest tho, getting a serpentine setup from a junk yard. Here's why:
1- It's gonna be a lot cheaper and the new parts (alternator, a/c compressor, idler, tentioner pulleys, power steer pump & belt) can be bought at any local GM dealer. Including any bits and pieces that may be missing when you go to a junk yard.
2- The passenger side bracket (the one under the a/c comp on the summit link) has a space for a smog pump. This is well and good if you require a pump. If not, then you need a bypass pulley.
Too me, an unused area is ugly. I used a serpentine setup also on my 350. I used the setup off of a 95 Chevy 1500 with a 350. It does not have a smog area and looks much cleaner. I had my brackets all powder coated black and all rough edges removed. I also used the water pump and crank pulleys from the donor 95. Just used a straight edge and flat surface to ensure they were not warped or anything.
3- The hardware for the kit can also be gotten at the junk yard. I used some spray paint to clean up the bolt heads and looks VERY nice.
This is just my 2 cents but worth a thought. If you like I can post a pic of my setup. I would recommend highly that you search a yard or two and find a complete setup from a either 94-95 Chevy/GMC 1500. I believe a 2500 might be the same but I went with a 1500 because it was easy to find and complete.
It all want together just about perfectly and I have had ZERO problems. Everything lines up perfectly and runs great.
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Also, I wouldn't mind walking you thru the process and I have a list of part numbers and such to complete the project. In all I spent I think about $500. Just haven't bought an a/c comp because was winter. That's soon to come.
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Good points fellas... keep em coming.
yes i always love pics LTZ... 1000 words and all that.
to rich: I love the body and interior on my truck. I don't care about originality beyond that. My perfect truck (if feasable) would be to put my body and interior onto a 2014 everything else...
I'm not dead set on the Ramjet...
I AM SET ON ONE THING THO. Whatever it is, it must be fuel injected, and have a roller cam. I want it to be set up so i can only gas in it and drive it. no tinkering later on, like i do now with my carb. must have AC and PS. otherwise, I'm open to ANY suggestions.
I have an engine in MS EXCEL I've been building for 3 or 4 years... just don't know how to post it here so yall could read it... I've thought long and hard on this since 2009.
Only possible trans' I'd consider are TH400 or 4L80. i love this th400 I got, ONLY auto trans I havent broken. I'm not kidding...
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Also, I wouldn't mind walking you thru the process and I have a list of part numbers and such to complete the project. In all I spent I think about $500. Just haven't bought an a/c comp because was winter. That's soon to come.
I'd appreciate that immensely, Thank you for offering. I'm all for junkyard stuff... Gets me new toys and I get to look in the junkyard... I love junkyards... If I could, I would own a junkyard... no question...
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I AM SET ON ONE THING THO. Whatever it is, it must be fuel injected, and have a roller cam. I want it to be set up so i can only gas in it and drive it. no tinkering later on, like i do now with my carb. must have AC and PS. otherwise, I'm open to ANY suggestions.
Understood. Given your parameters, I think the Ramjet 350 is a good choice. Anything else with 400 or more lbft of torque will be more money. I looked at it myself, but I'm a tinkerer, so I kind of like the retro hot-rod setup.
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Also serpentine systems from s 10 s will work
Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk
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Ok cool. Well just lemme know when your ready. I'll dig thru all my paperwork at home and get the info.
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I AM SET ON ONE THING THO. Whatever it is, it must be fuel injected, and have a roller cam. I want it to be set up so i can only gas in it and drive it. no tinkering later on, like i do now with my carb. must have AC and PS. otherwise, I'm open to ANY suggestions.
Understood. Given your parameters, I think the Ramjet 350 is a good choice. Anything else with 400 or more lbft of torque will be more money. I looked at it myself, but I'm a tinkerer, so I kind of like the retro hot-rod setup.
I'd like the retro tinkering setup, and do now mostly, but the trucks about to become my one and only... and i never want to tinker on my one and only...
I sold my last truck off for a pretty new ford focus... I don't regret that in the slightest, except i wish i coulda kept the truck too... ya know... i don't but i do... but i went from tinkering constantly to add gas change oil drive... id like to continue that now, ive gotten lazy... ill admit it.
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Also serpentine systems from s 10 s will work
Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk
will the one off a 1999 4.3l v6 astro van work also? cuz i have that onhand now...
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Also... The engines I'm looking for and would be proper for my truck all have smooth idles... nobody likes a smooth idle... unless yours should be idling smoothly and doesnt. I'm no exception.
Throughout all this, Ima want a mean idle, but don't need it. but my truck would look so darn cool with a mean idle and rims...
Yall gotta help me through this...
I want it to sound like this...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pMqBGtv4gos (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pMqBGtv4gos)
but i KNOW IT'S NOT FOR THE BEST power n mileage...
Am I stupid or what? don't answer that... or do... I want all your opinions... don't hold back...
I DO have a 7500lbs trailer I have to haul like once every year or two. I normally drive it alone and dang fast. I go 80-90mph on the freeway when I can... Truck is smooth and tight at those speeds so thats how fast i expect to go. 90 is about the limit before it gets wandering n such... 110 is tops but scary tops...
I wanna go 75mph to 85mph i know thats not fuel efficient, but its what i do...
That being said... how much power could i expect to have if my truck idled like this
279 thumpr
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pMqBGtv4gos (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pMqBGtv4gos)
vs building it for max torque n economy. torque first economy second.
I have a th400 trans, 3.73 gears, and 33" tires.
I'd be willing to give up a lil bit of power for the sound I love the most on the earth... I grew up around lumpy cams n no cats... thats the best sound n smell on the earth for me at least...ya know...
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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pMqBGtv4gos (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pMqBGtv4gos)
0:27. That sounds makes me feel good n fat n happy, thats the minimum of loping i acknowledge. I'd feel good every day without feil and at every redlight having that idle. I kinda want that idle more now cuz all the supercars now idle smooth... just to be different.
Have you ever heard a certain song that shot right through your soul? me too. well that kind od idle does that to me. maybe a lil spiritual man... i dunno... I do know idles like that or rougher are like harps for angels i have to assume.
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I AM SET ON ONE THING THO. Whatever it is, it must be fuel injected, and have a roller cam. I want it to be set up so i can only gas in it and drive it. no tinkering later on, like i do now with my carb. must have AC and PS. otherwise, I'm open to ANY suggestions.
Understood. Given your parameters, I think the Ramjet 350 is a good choice. Anything else with 400 or more lbft of torque will be more money. I looked at it myself, but I'm a tinkerer, so I kind of like the retro hot-rod setup.
I'd like the retro tinkering setup, and do now mostly, but the trucks about to become my one and only... and i never want to tinker on my one and only...
I sold my last truck off for a pretty new ford focus... I don't regret that in the slightest, except i wish i coulda kept the truck too... ya know... i don't but i do... but i went from tinkering constantly to add gas change oil drive... id like to continue that now, ive gotten lazy... ill admit it.
Working Girl is my daily driver. I don't have another vehicle, unless I want to borrow hers, and that costs me. ;)
Even when Working Girl needs a bit of a tinker, she's never not run. Even blowing anitfreeze from three cylinders, she ran. The only time she's been towed in four years is the time the brake pedal was fading toward the floor. That was due to the age-hardened rubber cup on the master cylinder piston. I didn't take any chances with that. But otherwise it has been very reliable, if by reliable you mean "Got me there and back just fine."
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pMqBGtv4gos (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pMqBGtv4gos)
0:27. That sounds makes me feel good n fat n happy, thats the minimum of loping i acknowledge. I'd feel good every day without feil and at every redlight having that idle. I kinda want that idle more now cuz all the supercars now idle smooth... just to be different.
Have you ever heard a certain song that shot right through your soul? me too. well that kind od idle does that to me. maybe a lil spiritual man... i dunno... I do know idles like that or rougher are like harps for angels i have to assume.
You realize of course that that kind of idle means the engine doesn't want to run at low rpm, so there goes the torque. And gas mileage. Great for a racer, as long as the race is a parade lap start and not a standing start like Formula 1, or you have a 3000 rpm torque converter and like rebuilding transmissions. But for the street? That's not a daily driver, that's a play toy.
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I have a Comp Cams 12-238-2 in my engine. I LOVE that cam. It's from the extreme energy line. Stock converter friendly, good torque for towing and doesn't beat my gas tank up to bad. I just put a beefed up 4L60 behind it too. Capable of 500 hp or so. I'm currently putting out about 360 hp. Just for comparison, that's the same as a 2015 Chevy Silverado 2500 HD with a 6.0 Vortec.
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I'm lazy now, and don't wanna do the leg work and mods to put an ls engine in it.
But you're pretty much doing this anyway so if you've got the coin available to do it, why not look into the LS? It's really pretty easy to convert and you'd attain your goals.
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I have a Comp Cams 12-238-2 in my engine. I LOVE that cam. It's from the extreme energy line. Stock converter friendly, good torque for towing and doesn't beat my gas tank up to bad. I just put a beefed up 4L60 behind it too. Capable of 500 hp or so. I'm currently putting out about 360 hp. Just for comparison, that's the same as a 2015 Chevy Silverado 2500 HD with a 6.0 Vortec.
Yeah, that's the higher lift version of the 12-235-2. What heads are you running to get that horsepower?
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My .02 for what they are worth...
-The RamJet, I believe, is actually a good engine at a good price. New block, efficient head and compression, and nice power band. The only thing is, don't plan on doing any mods. From what I heard, the controller was made specifically for that RamJet engine, and is not able to be re-tuned for modifications.
-If you are looking at a short block to build off, got with the L31... http://www.summitracing.com/parts/nal-12530283/overview/.
4-bolt mains, efficient head and compression combo, and a roller cam. It is very similar to the specs of the RamJet. I personally would look at pairing this with a Holley Avenger EFI kit... http://www.summitracing.com/parts/hly-550-816/overview/make/chevrolet. Whatever kit you get, I would make sure it can also control your timing system and that new 4L80-E transmission you are going to swap in too.
The above two will keep you in the SBC gen. 1 realm. The option of going LS is intriguing also, but make sure you compare prices of NEW engine assemblies when doing a true cost analysis. Most claims of doing it for the same cost are speaking of used engines, not new crate motors as you are talking.
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One of the reasons behind the ls swap is the option of cheap junkyard parts. Although a 5.3/trans/harnes and ecu isn't cheap, a clean longblock is only a couple hundred bucks. How many times can you replace the 5.3 before you hit the same cost as the ramjet? Or, you could have it freshened up before installing for a reasonable price. Or even built up over stock. You may like a new block, but myself and many others prefer seasoned blocks. A few heat cycles on a fresh casting and precision machining means nothing. Plus, 6 bolt mains, way better head design, and the tuneability of the vortec computers just blow away the sbc stuff. Of course, when the ramjet computer starts holding you back, you can modify an ls harness, and a good tuner can program it to run the ramjet. I have known people who have slapped a turbo on a stock 5.3, threw down 800+hp, and got 15k or more miles out of them, with a lot of passes at the strip. Guys who don't build the big boost all the time get 50k plus out of them. A friend has 227k on his 430rwhp silverado, no boost or spray, just a mean daily driver that gets 22mpg and tows his ski boat great. It's an ls1, alloy 5.7.
If you want no hassle until you mod it, then no hassle after the modd'ing is done, go ls. If you want to leave it stock, ramjet. If you have to stay sbc, but want to mod, aftermarket efi stuff is the way to go. Oh yea, trash the summit mag and hit the web. There are better quality parts for less money avalible out there. Cool stuff you will never see in summit and jegs. My life and my rides got better after I broke that addiction. Lmao
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Rich. I believe it's a long duration cam. I could be wrong here, isn't long duration a choppy idle and high lift a lopping idle? Because at idle mine sits there and cackles. :D Either way truck hauls ass. Don't hold me too it but I could have the two swip swapped.
As for my heads, I've got Dart Specialty High Performance aluminum heads. Here's the specs, copied and pasted from summit lol.
Summit Racing Part Number: DRT-127322
Cylinder Head Style: Assembled
Cylinder Head Material: Aluminum
Cylinder Head Finish: Natural
Combustion Chamber Volume (cc): 64
CNC-Machined Combustion Chamber: No
Intake Runner Volume (cc): 200cc
Exhaust Runner Volume (cc): 75cc
CNC-Machined Intake Runner: No
CNC-Machined Exhaust Runner: No
Combustion Chamber Style: Heart
Intake Port Location: Standard
Exhaust Port Shape: Square
Exhaust Port Location: Standard
Spark Plug Style: Straight
Intake Valves Included: Yes
Intake Valve Diameter (in): 2.020 in.
Exhaust Valves Included: Yes
Exhaust Valve Diameter (in): 1.600 in.
Valve Springs Included: Yes
Maximum Valve Lift (in): 0.620 in.
Outside Diameter of Outer Spring (in): 1.437 in.
Damper Spring Included: No
Number of Springs Per Valve: Dual
Retainers Included: Yes
Retainer Material: Steel
Locks Included: Yes
Lock Style: 10 degree
Valve Stem Seals Included: Yes
Valve Stem Seal Style: Umbrella
Rocker Arm Studs Included: Yes
Rocker Arm Nut Thread Size: 3/8-24 in.
Rocker Arms Included: No
Rocker Arm Nuts Included: No
Guideplates Included: Yes
Guideplate Pushrod Size: 5/16 in.
Valve Cover Mounting Style: Center and perimeter bolt
Accessory Bolt Holes Drilled: Yes
Intake Valve Angle: 23
Exhaust Valve Angle: 23
Valve Guides Included: Yes
Valve Guide Material: Manganese bronze
Valve Seats Machined: Yes
Valve Seat Machine Style: 5-angle intake/2-angle exhaust
Valve Seat Material: Powdered metal
Steam Holes Drilled: No
Oiling Style: Through pushrod
Machined for O-Ring: No
Heat Crossover: No
These heads are very good. High performance at a low price. I put steel roller tip rockers on too.
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Good replies guys. Great info. keep em coming.
Main reason id like to keep a genI smallblock and th400 would be quickness of installation... once i sell off my car n van, and the trucks apart, i have to borrow my moms car until its finished. leaving her stranded... so I can't have a lot of bugs to deal with... I hate borrowing anybody else's car. Also i'm not setup for nor am i any good at welding.
the 4l80 would add more bugs to iron out but that one would be worth it in the long run.
Actually i can wait a bit on the trans, my current th400 drives fine. but i bet it won't live long behind a hotter engine for too long, since i have a lead foot...ha
I wouldnt mind having my current trans rebuilt but all the places around here want to do cookie-cutter stock and won't upgrade it any... every trans needs to be upgraded... even for a stock engine i want it to shift like a truck and i bet there's been updates since 1978... ya know...
The ramjet is looking better and better. may even not get the serp setup and keep what I've got... it works well, and all accessories are a year old or so... so i may not get it...
the ramjet not being easily upgradable is ok. the ramjet IS the upgrade... I can't see me messing with again after seting it up the first time. I'm happy with the truck now, with the stock 350... so this will be a big bump up in performance and i'll be ok with whatever i do now from now on.
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Will a 4L80E physically fit in my truck? c20, 3/4 ton, 2wd low hump.
Do i have to have a controller for it or can you get mechanical versions with mech lockup and all like a 700r4? I've seen some 700r4's specd for 400hp and will move my 5200lb truck... but ive broken too many 700r4's... i just dislike em for something like this. especially for heavy trailer towing.
I have a 5200lb truck Empty. and a 8000lb trailer i haul every year or two... ya know just when a car breaks down is it that heavy...
I like the th400 because it's the ONLY auto trans in anything i haven't broken... and I'm not too easy on em... I don't drive like mad all the time, but when i want to, it better take it and smile. so far my th400 has.
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Oh yea, trash the summit mag and hit the web. There are better quality parts for less money avalible out there. Cool stuff you will never see in summit and jegs. My life and my rides got better after I broke that addiction. Lmao
I learned that too... I only use summit to give yall links, since they show most specs. I price everything out seperately and all over the place before i actually pay $$$.
Tho year one and summit tend to get a fair amount of my buisiness because summit is 65 miles away and year one is 4 miles away. costs tax but no shipping. otherwise i have no loyalty to a store... i find the part number i want and i buy it where its cheapest.
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There must be someone at year one that could recommend a good shop to build your trans.
But, with dirty dingo mounts, I've had no problem dropping truck pull-outs straight into c10 2wd low hump trucks. Accessories and all, with the 4l80. Now, the mounts are adjustable, and were slid all the way forward to clear the a/c compressor, but it fit. Mounts fit easy, drops in just like any sbc. For trans cossmember, bolt to trans and clamp to frame, drill new holes and install bolts. You can order a custom harness, have the stock harness modified, or do it yourself. Lt1swaps.com has several set of instructions depending on year and model of engine. Lsx unlimited in my area makes and mods harnesses, and they ship. Only possible issue is the driveshaft. May need a different yoke, but will need to be shortened. Late model th400's are called 3l80's, can't remember if the yoke is the same.
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As far as I know, there is no mechanical 4l80, unless you could the 3l80, otherwise known as the th400.
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Rich. I believe it's a long duration cam. I could be wrong here, isn't long duration a choppy idle and high lift a lopping idle? Because at idle mine sits there and cackles. :D Either way truck hauls . Don't hold me too it but I could have the two swip swapped.
As for my heads, I've got Dart Specialty High Performance aluminum heads. Here's the specs, copied and pasted from summit lol.
You're right, the lift is about the same as the 12-235-2, but the duration is a little longer. You can get away with it because you are running about 9.5:1 compression ratio with those heads, so you have the static compression to use a later intake valve closure without the dynamic compression going completely south. For the 8.5:1 compression heads, that may be a little too long for the bottom-end torque a truck needs, but with those heads, and the larger valves, yeah, it'll snort. Camquest says 360 hp at 5000 and 425 lbft at 2500. Nice.
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Thanks Rich. I thought so. You know your stuff to lol, I am right at 9.5:1. She is a definitely a hot girl. Did I mention she breaks transmissions??
Chevyrado, you are correct about not wanting to break your 400 with the new engine. I did that. I put that 425 ftlbs of torque into my old 350. She ran good for about 2 months. Then one morning, tried to leave home and no R & D from the trans. Now I've got that 4l60 in. That one is freshly built by a GM trans tech and upgraded by a lot. Haven't even driven her yet, still waiting on a driveshaft. But she's capable of about 500 horse. I've got room to flex if I suddenly wanna add a little juice to the engine down the road.
And here's a little piece of useful information. A 700R4 is a 4l60. After the bad rap that the 700 got a few years after being used, they changed some stuff, modified it and re-released it as a 4l60. What I have a 700R4 but there is a 4l60 casting on the side if the bell housing.
Sometimes is easier to say 4l60 because the look on people's faces is usually more of an "OH COOL" instead of an "oh ewwww". Haha
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N2TRUX has a Ramjet in his truck, he said it has nice power.
(http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/attachment.php?attachmentid=181721&stc=1&d=1139189765)
(http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/attachment.php?attachmentid=211119&stc=1&d=1154879635)
4L80E is essentially a TH400 with a overdrive, it will fit, I have one in my 1/2T Twin Turbo truck.
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Thanks Rich. I thought so. You know your stuff to lol, I am right at 9.5:1. She is a definitely a hot girl. Did I mention she breaks transmissions??
Chevyrado, you are correct about not wanting to break your 400 with the new engine. I did that. I put that 425 ftlbs of torque into my old 350. She ran good for about 2 months. Then one morning, tried to leave home and no R & D from the trans. Now I've got that 4l60 in. That one is freshly built by a GM trans tech and upgraded by a lot. Haven't even driven her yet, still waiting on a driveshaft. But she's capable of about 500 horse. I've got room to flex if I suddenly wanna add a little juice to the engine down the road.
And here's a little piece of useful information. A 700R4 is a 4l60. After the bad rap that the 700 got a few years after being used, they changed some stuff, modified it and re-released it as a 4l60. What I have a 700R4 but there is a 4l60 casting on the side if the bell housing.
Sometimes is easier to say 4l60 because the look on people's faces is usually more of an "OH COOL" instead of an "oh ewwww". Haha
Yeah, I'm running stock heads with the 12-300-4 cam, which is 422 lbft at 2500, but I don't have the top end you do, only 275 hp at 4000. So up until 3500 rpm or so, I basically have the same pull, and I love it. Have to keep those heads in mind, though. That's a sweet setup for pretty cheap.
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Will a 4L80E physically fit in my truck? c20, 3/4 ton, 2wd low hump.
Do i have to have a controller for it or can you get mechanical versions with mech lockup and all like a 700r4? I've seen some 700r4's specd for 400hp and will move my 5200lb truck... but ive broken too many 700r4's... i just dislike em for something like this. especially for heavy trailer towing.
I have a 5200lb truck Empty. and a 8000lb trailer i haul every year or two... ya know just when a car breaks down is it that heavy...
I like the th400 because it's the ONLY auto trans in anything i haven't broken... and I'm not too easy on em... I don't drive like mad all the time, but when i want to, it better take it and smile. so far my th400 has.
As Capt said, yes it will fit. Being 2wd the swap should be quite easy for ya. Possible crossmember re-location and maybe driveshaft length alteration? Others will be able to answer better than me. IIRC, 90 and/or 91 trucks came with the 4l80 and basically a stand alone controller from the factory to control it.
edit: Found this from another guy that did the 4L80E swap on his 85...
Hey brah...if you go 4l80e youll need the tci standalone controller ($600-about half the cost of the other ones on the market) youll need a throttle position sensor for your carb if thats what you have (runs about $130) and a little black box to convert the mechanical speedo to electronic signal...which is about 330 dollars. Then you just need trans. Move crossmember ajd may have to cut driveshaft depending on what you have
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Yea. It's a GM Performance block too, 4-bolt mains, 30 over bore, double roller timing chain. I love this engine. :)
Her peak is right around 5200 rpm but she will spin 6000.
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Block is a fast burn 385. Doesn't have any original parts tho. New bearings, rings, rods, pistons, only thing to match original to the block is the crank.
Built her in my garage and installed on plywood covering in my dirt backyard. That's the first engine I've ever built.
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N2TRUX has a Ramjet in his truck, he said it has nice power.
(http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/attachment.php?attachmentid=181721&stc=1&d=1139189765)
(http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/attachment.php?attachmentid=211119&stc=1&d=1154879635)
4L80E is essentially a TH400 with a overdrive, it will fit, I have one in my 1/2T Twin Turbo truck.
I forgot about that truck... I read his build. thats a sexy truck inside n out.
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Will a 4L80E physically fit in my truck? c20, 3/4 ton, 2wd low hump.
Do i have to have a controller for it or can you get mechanical versions with mech lockup and all like a 700r4? I've seen some 700r4's specd for 400hp and will move my 5200lb truck... but ive broken too many 700r4's... i just dislike em for something like this. especially for heavy trailer towing.
I have a 5200lb truck Empty. and a 8000lb trailer i haul every year or two... ya know just when a car breaks down is it that heavy...
I like the th400 because it's the ONLY auto trans in anything i haven't broken... and I'm not too easy on em... I don't drive like mad all the time, but when i want to, it better take it and smile. so far my th400 has.
As Capt said, yes it will fit. Being 2wd the swap should be quite easy for ya. Possible crossmember re-location and maybe driveshaft length alteration? Others will be able to answer better than me. IIRC, 90 and/or 91 trucks came with the 4l80 and basically a stand alone controller from the factory to control it.
edit: Found this from another guy that did the 4L80E swap on his 85...
Hey brah...if you go 4l80e youll need the tci standalone controller ($600-about half the cost of the other ones on the market) youll need a throttle position sensor for your carb if thats what you have (runs about $130) and a little black box to convert the mechanical speedo to electronic signal...which is about 330 dollars. Then you just need trans. Move crossmember ajd may have to cut driveshaft depending on what you have
basically i" wondering will there be any cab trans hump problems.
I don't know if I can get a 4l80. the one i want is $2700 plus controller. but i can get a th400 rated for 900hp for $1400. I finally found a local trans builder id trust and they will build it like i want. Don't know yet if i can afford it or not.
Either way ill get the engine n exhaust setup, then see what i can to trans wise then if anythings left ill get a powertrax for the rear end.
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I'm liking that ramjet 350 more and more...
power chart for it...
(https://chevroletperformanceparts.com/sites/default/files/products/charts/2011Dyno_RamJet350.jpg)
TQ is what I need. it also has a better than stock idle. and i have a 5300lb truck to move.
Here's the trans I'm looking at. guy is local and I hear nothing around but good. and I know I have nowhere near 900hp... but I don't think a trans can be overbuilt. I'm impressed with the TH400 stocker in my truck now... it's the only auto trans i haven't broken yet... thats quite a feat.
http://www.maddogtransmissions.com/TH400_Transmission_p/l3%20th400.htm (http://www.maddogtransmissions.com/TH400_Transmission_p/l3%20th400.htm)
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I AM SET ON ONE THING THO. Whatever it is, it must be fuel injected, and have a roller cam. I want it to be set up so i can only gas in it and drive it. no tinkering later on, like i do now with my carb. must have AC and PS. otherwise, I'm open to ANY suggestions.
Understood. Given your parameters, I think the Ramjet 350 is a good choice. Anything else with 400 or more lbft of torque will be more money. I looked at it myself, but I'm a tinkerer, so I kind of like the retro hot-rod setup.
I do enjoy tinkering, and trying to make it a little better to try and get that 0.00038hp increase... always have always will... but NOT ON MY DD. on my toy, yes. but my DD needs to run and not need anything but gas n oil changes. I haven't minded the tinkering i have to do to the truck now because i have a van n car to drive... but to make all this happen, van and car are going away.
I also like this idea because, far as im concerned... I love the body and interior on my truck. every other possible part could be upgraded as much as possible and id be happy. I want the look of an old truck with the newest non-cosmetic stuff available.
Id drop my body onto a newer 2500hd frame but the frames hang down so low under the cab i think it's ugly.
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One other thing.
I don't wanna scrimp here...
But ill need a fuel pump that supplies 35GPH and 45-55psi.
It will be an inline pump. i dont wanna replace both tanks and rewire everything for dual tank service.
What pump do you recommend? I'm great at plumbing so if i have to put it in a wierd spot not to get vapor lock i will, or build heat shields for it. it will have dual exhaust. Plumbing is a small problem. I'd rather do plumbing than wiring for the dual tank setup...
Now I ask you this... how does this sound... my plan is...
Okay I have dual tanks a splitter valve between them that goes into a single steel line up to the engine. new engine requires a return line.
I want to mount my inline pump in the existing steel line, close to tanks as possible. i want my RETURN line to connect to the existing fuel line, BEFORE the fuel pump. My logic is that fuel gets sent back, fine, but whichever tank im using, connecting to the line right before the pump, will be low psi, before the pump, and everything returned will go back into the tank it came from making the fuel available again for the pump to use of of the current tank.
I know i can get two in tank units for a tbi n upgrade them to tpi specs. id also have to rewire everything to use an 87 tbi dual tank switch. this is not desireable.
I know they use in tank pumps mainly because they are in the fuel of the tank and stay cooler. no vapor lock. I can mount my pump somewhere unconventional, or make air scoops to cool it or whatever. I don't wanna drop both tanks or take my bed off.
So inline it is. not the perfect solution, but my decision. so if ya can help me think up how to best implement this.
Thanks fellas. yall are wonderful, love this site the most. has the best ppl on the web
Kenny~
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If you are going to go through all this for EFI, DO NOT SKIMP ON THE FUEL SYSTEM!!! Do in tank pumps, there is a reason all the new cars have them. Your fuel system is the most vital part of EFI. A guy I work with did an LS swap into a 76 Camaro and had problems with it for the first year. You know why... external fuel pump. He went to an in-tank Phantom set-up and all, literally all, his little problems went away. Just saying.
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Will a 4L80E physically fit in my truck? c20, 3/4 ton, 2wd low hump.
Do i have to have a controller for it or can you get mechanical versions with mech lockup and all like a 700r4? I've seen some 700r4's specd for 400hp and will move my 5200lb truck... but ive broken too many 700r4's... i just dislike em for something like this. especially for heavy trailer towing.
I have a 5200lb truck Empty. and a 8000lb trailer i haul every year or two... ya know just when a car breaks down is it that heavy...
I like the th400 because it's the ONLY auto trans in anything i haven't broken... and I'm not too easy on em... I don't drive like mad all the time, but when i want to, it better take it and smile. so far my th400 has.
As Capt said, yes it will fit. Being 2wd the swap should be quite easy for ya. Possible crossmember re-location and maybe driveshaft length alteration? Others will be able to answer better than me. IIRC, 90 and/or 91 trucks came with the 4l80 and basically a stand alone controller from the factory to control it.
edit: Found this from another guy that did the 4L80E swap on his 85...
Hey brah...if you go 4l80e youll need the tci standalone controller ($600-about half the cost of the other ones on the market) youll need a throttle position sensor for your carb if thats what you have (runs about $130) and a little black box to convert the mechanical speedo to electronic signal...which is about 330 dollars. Then you just need trans. Move crossmember ajd may have to cut driveshaft depending on what you have
basically i" wondering will there be any cab trans hump problems.
I don't know if I can get a 4l80. the one i want is $2700 plus controller. but i can get a th400 rated for 900hp for $1400. I finally found a local trans builder id trust and they will build it like i want. Don't know yet if i can afford it or not.
Either way ill get the engine n exhaust setup, then see what i can to trans wise then if anythings left ill get a powertrax for the rear end.
Where are you looking for 4l80's? Junkyard core for a couple hundred bucks, then a stock rebuild. I've got several friends who drag race with these transmissions, they buy junk yard pull outs and run them until they let go. And you would be suprised how long a stock, 100k mile, 80 will last behind a built 408 with a 96mm turbo. Remember, it is a th400 with overdrive and other improvements, not a modernized 700r4. I run 80's behind 6-700rwhp builds, and they last.
Buy a lq9/4l80 combo, slap a cam in it, and you will wonder why you ever even thought about another small block.
Like KWKENUF said, in-tank pumps are the best. And, electric pumps need to be near the tank, so if you are running dual tanks, you need 2 pumps, don't expect one to draw through the selector valve. Internal pumps are cooled by the fuel and last longer, and are quieter. You would need 87 tanks and valve with return line set up. Or you can run 87-91 blazer/suburban tank under the bed. The stock in-tank pumps would have to be upgraded, I believe 96-98 pumps fit and provide enough pressure. Also, if you want to run an inline pump, you will need to sump your tanks. You would still have to remove them, but you would also have to cut and weld them too.
You really don't want to send fuel back to the feed line. Return fuel usually ends up with air in it, if you suck it right back into the pump, you will have issues. If you want to keep your dual tanks, you need an 87 tank selector with the switched return line set up and 87 tanks or sumped older tanks and 2 pumps. No getting around it.
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This sounding worse and worse. Not your guys fault. I want to do it CORRECTLY. But $$$ means compromises.
Been talking to my dad. He says and I feel he's correct for a DD He wouldn't have the truck with a 3 speed in it. Dunno if i can afford the 4l80 and such. and putting the fuel pump in my dual tanks is another huge hurdle. dual pumps, more wiring to dual tank switch.
plus the ramjet is the quickest n easiest but needs premium fuel... i wouldnt have minded that when there was a 20 cent difference cheap to premium but thats gone forever...
The truck isn't worth all that. I've already dropped at least $15k into it. everything been done is top of the line, but dang.. I love the truck, never want to let it go, wanna keep it forever. but its not worth all that $$$$$$$ and effort. especially when while it's apart i have to borrow my moms car till its done. Im almost 34. I don't wanna borrow mommas car no more... I will for a week or two but thats about it... She'll let me and have no problem with it but i know shell be stuck... i can't do that to her... though she'd smile the whole time... maybe thats reason more i don't want to have to drive her car ONE day. I may not do this afterall. may keep it like it is and keep it carbed and when the engine blows get the replacement 290hp 350 and keep it carbed.
Been looking at selling off my van car n tractor and get an 01-02 camaro z28 or ss.
Those are the LAST cars I've been excited about... I used to test drive them lots when i was 21 and they were new... they still sexy cars.
What ya think? Then i get a camaro and my truck... how would my fleet pic look with my truck and an 01-02 z28 or ss next to it? That's the only car i can think of would make me happy and excited to own.
It's just sounding more n more like this isnt a viable option for a DD. I know im asking a lot of it. so maybe ill keep it stock and sell the car van n tractor n get me a camaro to hotrod.
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I think you're being more realistic. There're a lot of other changes that go along with moving to a modern technology engine. Not that you can't do it, but it's big bucks unless you rebuild salvage yard pulls, and that's probably not a daily driver from a reliability point of view.
But don't get the 350/290. The torque curve sucks in the bottom. Definitely not for a truck. I paid $500 bucks more for that engine over the 350/260, and had it re-cammed in the truck a year later, which was pricey at shop rates. That cam is for a much higher static compression Corvette engine, and it is too long a duration for the 8.5:1 heads on the engine. End result: poor low-end torque. And it's an old-tech grind.
Get the 350/260 and toy with it when you need to replace the current engine. No big deal to re-cam the 350/260 before it goes in. And if you add the Dart Specialty heads that LTZ C20 is running, the thing will be a land missile.
Actually, you could put the Dart Specialty heads on the 350/290 engine, and that would probably work out pretty well, but $500 extra for that cam is a lot when there are even better cams you can go to for $100 if you are pulling the heads and voiding the warranty anyway.
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What I would get is the GM Crate L-31R (Vortec 350), and a Vortec carb intake. Like $2200 if you shop around. This is what I did when my engine blow up. It's no hotrod but it does have more power then stock. Keep the th400 for now. Later on you can switch to the 4l80e when you can.
Mine is also a 3/4 ton truck, but with the Vortec 350 and quadrajet, sm465, and a 14bsf axle with 4.10 gears I avg 14-15 mpg driving 55mph. Starts up on the first try every time and so far has been very reliable. Next I'm saving up to switch the axle to a 14bff with 3.42 gears. To try and get the mileage up a little more.
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I again second Rich's motion lol. "Land missile" haha new truck name. That be a great license plate.
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LND MSL -- That works.
And, Kev, with 425 lbft of torque, 360 hp, and revving to 6000 rpm, that's exactly what it is.
Criminy.
Maybe next build/rebuild. ;)
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Rich, I haven't actually gone full bore on it yet. Shortly after it was fully broken in is when the trans went out. I hopped on it once or twice but never just balls to the walls. Gonna try that after get a few miles on the new trans. ;)
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This sounding worse and worse. Not your guys fault. I want to do it CORRECTLY. But $$$ means compromises.
Been talking to my dad. He says and I feel he's correct for a DD He wouldn't have the truck with a 3 speed in it. Dunno if i can afford the 4l80 and such. and putting the fuel pump in my dual tanks is another huge hurdle. dual pumps, more wiring to dual tank switch.
plus the ramjet is the quickest n easiest but needs premium fuel... i wouldnt have minded that when there was a 20 cent difference cheap to premium but thats gone forever...
The truck isn't worth all that. I've already dropped at least $15k into it. everything been done is top of the line, but dang.. I love the truck, never want to let it go, wanna keep it forever. but its not worth all that $$$$$$$ and effort. especially when while it's apart i have to borrow my moms car till its done. Im almost 34. I don't wanna borrow mommas car no more... I will for a week or two but thats about it... She'll let me and have no problem with it but i know shell be stuck... i can't do that to her... though she'd smile the whole time... maybe thats reason more i don't want to have to drive her car ONE day. I may not do this afterall. may keep it like it is and keep it carbed and when the engine blows get the replacement 290hp 350 and keep it carbed.
Been looking at selling off my van car n tractor and get an 01-02 camaro z28 or ss.
Those are the LAST cars I've been excited about... I used to test drive them lots when i was 21 and they were new... they still sexy cars.
What ya think? Then i get a camaro and my truck... how would my fleet pic look with my truck and an 01-02 z28 or ss next to it? That's the only car i can think of would make me happy and excited to own.
It's just sounding more n more like this isnt a viable option for a DD. I know im asking a lot of it. so maybe ill keep it stock and sell the car van n tractor n get me a camaro to hotrod.
Do the blazer/burb tank swap. If you need/want more fuel capacity, keep the saddle tanks and add a small transfer pump so you can refill the blazer tank on the move. I find 6.0/4l80 low mile pull outs all the time for 2k complete with accessories, harness and ecu. I've paid 500 for the 80 with harness and ecu, but since they sold the 6.0, I got the yard to give me a 4.8 to go with it. Same yard sold me the burb tank and all the hardware to hang it for 50. 110 for mounts, 250 to have harness worked, I think 150 for walbro pump that went in tank. Simple as could be, cheap, and it gets 21mpg average. Sold it to a friend for his daughter's first vehicle. Engine had 68k miles, trans had 120k miles, has 90k+ trouble free miles since build and still going strong. And in case you think the 4.8 is a joke, after tuning, we got 296rwhp on 87 octane. The ramjet's 350 will be less at the wheels, maybe 275ish. The modified harness is easy to install, keyed power, live power and ground, lsx unlimited included the fuel pump relay, and 2 e-fan relays. Fans are run by the computer, temps can be tuned to whatever you want. I did a tuned port swap back in 97 that was way harder than the ls swap was, and it cost more.
You can go new, or go cheap, it's your choice. You may be surprised how well the cheap route turns out though.
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Frankly, I'm okay with the performance of my truck now. with its OE 350 and th400.
I don't think it's worth the $$ or effort to do EFI CORRECTLY.
I have $17k in this thing already... I don't wanna have $29k in a 36 yr old truck dd. Yeah the bodys and int is pretty. i cannot put another $10-$14k in it...
I'm thinking take the cash, buy my camaro ive loved since i saw it, and all else is held back for problems. I can replace the engine trans in the truck stock replacements for about $3200 total... keep the carb. etc...
not a DD tho
Camaro isnt the fuel economy king, but its literally smiles per gallon... id feel like a king driving it any time. and if i could have that camaro and my truck... i figure I AM THE KING. if ya know what I mean
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Thats why i asked. not to waste any of you guys time or effort. id despise doing that, but this thread will be read by many people far into the future... so your knowldge isnt lost. it can't possibly be
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Right now im at keeping it like it is. when either engine OR trans goes south ill replace both. there's no one or the other there.
But i might take the money and get me a hot rod camaro. God i love thos cars. dang theyre sexy. if i could have an 01-02 camaro z28 or ss AND MY TRUCK. I AM THE KING. whatever yall say... least in my mind... ;D
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There ya go. The thing about big money builds is, there are other places you could maybe use the money.
That said, I hate to say how much I have in my truck, given that I had the heavy work shopped and always went new parts or better-than-OEM parts, but it's the way I want it, and will be for a long time.
And the thread wasn't a waste. That Dart heads/12-238-2 combo alone was well worth learning.
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I can replace the engine trans in the truck stock replacements for about $3200 total... keep the carb. etc...
That's about what an ls swap costs, fuel system and all.
No offense, but you quote some outrageous prices. Remember, crate engines are for people with no time but plenty $$. You can get your stock bottom end rebuilt with good pistons, throw bad :( heads on it, cam, the whole nine yards, and have a race rebuild done on the trans for less than that. Stock rebuild on a trans shouldn't be more than a couple hundred bucks, and you can get rebuilt longblocks for less than a grand. If you quit looking at new stuff online, and started pricing rebuild work, you would be happily surprised. You quoted a crazy price on a 4l80, $500 at a salvage yard, and a 3-500 rebuild and you would be good for years. Most people don't mess with rebuilding them, just run them as is. 2k gets a built to handle high hp/high traction launches rebuild. Something that is a waste of money for a mild build.
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Decisions decisions. Lol your welcome.
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I'm with texan here. Everything that you've said just SCREAMS ls swap to me. In my area you can pick up a 6.0 out of a wrecked truck for a shade over $500. Call up the folks at Texas Speed, tell them what its going in , send them the ecm and they send it back with a cam and new brain and you've got more power than you can put on the ground coupled with turn the key and go dependability and 20mpg. The harness isnt any tougher to do than putting efi in a carbureted truck anyway.
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I don't like "mail order" tunes. I would look for a local tuner to handle tuning it on a dyno or a driving tune. Sometimes transmissions act a lot different with the same electrical inputs. Plus, the one size fits all tunes don't appeal to me. It may be close, but it can still run a lot better.
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Another thing, with the original poster not looking for outright performance, a 4.8/4l60 would be fine. The 80 is good to have if stupid power is your game, but isn't needed for a stockish driver.
I would recommend that Chevyrado get on ls1tech, find the state/regional forums, and look for local shops. Find out who is trusted in your region. See where people in your area find their drivetrains for a good price, what junk yards have good parts for decent prices, stuff like that. Having local help is always nice.
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There ya go. The thing about big money builds is, there are other places you could maybe use the money.
That said, I hate to say how much I have in my truck, given that I had the heavy work shopped and always went new parts or better-than-OEM parts, but it's the way I want it, and will be for a long time.
And the thread wasn't a waste. That Dart heads/12-238-2 combo alone was well worth learning.
Sorry yall I was being all pissed off cuz it wasn't gonne be what i dreamed. with a capitol dream.
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I can replace the engine trans in the truck stock replacements for about $3200 total... keep the carb. etc...
That's about what an ls swap costs, fuel system and all.
No offense, but you quote some outrageous prices. Remember, crate engines are for people with no time but plenty $$. You can get your stock bottom end rebuilt with good pistons, throw bad :( heads on it, cam, the whole nine yards, and have a race rebuild done on the trans for less than that. Stock rebuild on a trans shouldn't be more than a couple hundred bucks, and you can get rebuilt longblocks for less than a grand. If you quit looking at new stuff online, and started pricing rebuild work, you would be happily surprised. You quoted a crazy price on a 4l80, $500 at a salvage yard, and a 3-500 rebuild and you would be good for years. Most people don't mess with rebuilding them, just run them as is. 2k gets a built to handle high hp/high traction launches rebuild. Something that is a waste of money for a mild build.
You can't offend me, unless you make me climb to the top of a water tower to defend my sister's honor... ;)
Thats kinda why i wanna crate, I have no time to complete this... I know for a fact the LS swap is the best thing period, no question. but if I do an LS, I have to borrow my mom's car till the truck is roadworthy again. One: I dunno how long that'll take (thinking of bugs) two: (pridefully) I don't ever want to borrow "MY MOMS CAR" ever again...
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Another thing, with the original poster not looking for outright performance, a 4.8/4l60 would be fine. The 80 is good to have if stupid power is your game, but isn't needed for a stockish driver.
I would recommend that Chevyrado get on ls1tech, find the state/regional forums, and look for local shops. Find out who is trusted in your region. See where people in your area find their drivetrains for a good price, what junk yards have good parts for decent prices, stuff like that. Having local help is always nice.
If I do an LS I want a 5.3 minimum. would love to have a 6.0 VMAX. i think smiles vs fuel economy smiles-per-gallon would win.
I obviously don't require 35MPG, or this truck would be scrapeed immediately... I'd like to get 20 if i can tho. I get like 12 now with the varying crappy E10 fuels now...
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I know the LS swap is the best possible. I was trying to halfass it for speed.
Thank you guys for talking me out of it. That's why i continue to come here and ask yall your highly valuable opinions.
As of now. I don not have the time to do an LS swap and work out the bugs. I'll keep the truck as it is, and when it breaks ill redo engine as trans like stock... better 350, and bullet proof th400.
I'm gonna go hunting my camaro, hey whats sexier than having my truck and an 01-02 camaro SS? I can't think of one thing. and it took me 3 minutes to type i can't think of one thing.
I could go get a newer car, but I'm selling off my car,van and one tractor. If i also sold off the truck, I could go a huge way further, but i think I could cut my pinkie off before i sold this truck off to anyone...
Nothing in here was a waste. excellent knowledge. And I thank all of you who chimed in, your knowledge is invaluable to me. Why year after year I continue to be a site supporter is, this to me is the best 73-87 site on the net... PERIOD. Ive been here a good while, and nowhere else has come close to having the quality of people Chris' Site does. So I thank you all for helping me with minimizing headaches.
And I take any post that begins with (no offense but...) as hey dude you missed something big... Offend me. tell me what i need to hear... you'll never get yelled at for that. i may not like what you say, may take me four days to reply, but tell me what you think, I DON'T NEED YES MEN, EVER. Besides what am I gonna do spank you and take away your birthday? Tell me guys... and you guys did... I THANK YOU FOR THAT. Thank You the most. :)
You guys responded here are part of the reason i support this site and always will long as I have my truck. and probably after it. this is the single BEST car community Ive ever been a part of and Ive been on lots of sites.
Rant over
Thank you guys,
Kenny
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I found one just like this, with 23k on it for $14k. I may have it soon if somebody doesn't get to it first. T-tops, SLP upgrades, Six speed manual. God what else could ya ask for... And I can upgrade it to the stars...
This car would be beautiful next to my truck in a MY FLEET PIC. Don't ya think?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eB_LrDmZBwA&list=PLxH3O68Uy3hbwLGZnq1MvjRV9av57nzaj&index=12 (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eB_LrDmZBwA&list=PLxH3O68Uy3hbwLGZnq1MvjRV9av57nzaj&index=12)
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Get your Camaro then build the truck. Lol, another driver helps with downtime.
Part of my suggestion for the 4.8 was the cheaper initial cost. Run it with a stock 4.8 while you build a stroker, or just look for that screaming deal. But a 4.8 isn't weak, it is a short stroke 5.3.
Camaro's are fun, find a nice one and enjoy it. My problem is I am 6'4", 230lbs. It's hard to get in and out of, even more so when you have broken your back a couple times.
An ls swap can be completed in a weekend if you have all the parts gathered. The actual swap isn't any harder than replacing a stock engine. Even the wiring is easy. Main issue is fuel system, and even it isn't hard, just have to get a plan.
When I said "no offense" I was saying not to spend money buying a fully built trans. Stock 4l80's take insane amounts of punishment. I have personally put 60k+ on one behind a turbo 6.0, and I have friends who have put more on them with more power. And, you can replace 5 of them for the cost of the built one. A trans built for 1500hp is overkill on a stock engine, and many of the performance parts in the trans hold better/shift harder, but they also wear quicker. You can pay more for a trans that won't last as long. I still suggest the regional forums on ls1tech, just because people there should be able to help you find good local shops. Cheaper, quicker and I always prefer a face to face transaction.
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part of this is I haven't driven my truck for almost 6 weeks...
I'm gonna drive it exclusively for a while and see how i feel and how bad i want it to be performance... we'll see. i get to drive it for fun tomorrow... that will effect my desicion, how much fun i have driving it, and how muh i want to haul butt
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If a mild cammed 4.8 at 350-400rwhp isn't enough, add a turbo and run it on e85. 1000+hp capable. 700+ on 93 pump gas. Don't underrate the little v8, she can still pack a punch. Also, it's not hard to swap the 4.8 out for any other ls longblock when/if you want more.