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73-87 Chevy _ GMC Trucks => Electrical => Topic started by: swilliams on May 27, 2014, 10:38:00 pm
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I am trying to figure out a keyed hot for my ridetech management system. I have talked with them several times even swapped ECUs and still have the same problem.
The wireing is simple there is a red hot to the battery (which is brand new at their suggestion) a black ground which is attached to the frame and a keyed yellow. All have to be hooked up to power the system. I started with the yellow (keyed) connected in the fuse box with my tach which works fine every thing was good untill i start the truck there is that moment when everything i.e wipers, radio, fan stops then truck starts everything else goes on working. Not the compressors on my system. I was instructed to try another spot like the wipers fuse so i did that same problem. Told to test voltage truck running at battery 14.2V at ridetech harness where it plugs in to sysyem 14.2V on the airpod system where the compressors plug into the harnes 14.2V. They asked for me to unplug alt no change. So i hooked yellow to a constant hot everything works fine. Ridrtech suggests trying to find another fuse location and suggests the choke fuse which i will try when i get back home eventually. It seems that in that dead zone when truck is starting the management system partially looses power because the hand held screen does not flash or loose power. Is there any suggestions on the fuse box or a keyed hot to tie in to. Thanks for any help.
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i dont have no experiences with this. but the system seams screwed. if you cant wait you could keep the yellow on a switch thats on a (key on) start the truck then flip the switch, so it doesnt see two on/off switches. dont know for sure but does the fuse for the ignition see the same thing? but i would return it if you can, hate to see it fail just out of warranty
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i had just thought about a switched constant hot but not a switched keyed hot. thanks for another option. I hope to get it straitened out. Is there any kind of problem i could be having with my wiring as far as how the keyed hot is initiated.
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On this page in the upper right corner is the ignition switch. Note that the connector socket layout and the switch prong layout are up/down reversed, so it represents what you see when you take the plug off and look at the business end of both at the same time.
http://www.73-87chevytrucks.com/techinfo/wiring_diagrams/81-87_cab_inter_pg2.jpg
What you can see is that in the first column, which connects BAT (RED-2) to IGN (PNK-3), the connection is made both in START and RUN. In the second column, BAT (RED-2) is only connected to ACC (BRN-4) in RUN, but is disconnected in START. In the third column, BAT (RED-2) is only connected to IGN 3 (ORN-300) in RUN, but is disconnected in START.
Probably the best combination of diagrams is this wiring diagram (download this first one) and fuse block picture (scroll down in this second one):
http://www.73-87chevytrucks.com/techinfo/7387CKMans//Wiring/ST_352_86_1986_Chevrolet_GMC_Light_Truc_Wiring_Manual_CK_10_30_Only.pdf
http://www.gmsquarebody.com/forum/showthread.php?t=6399
ORN-300 runs the CHOKE fuse -- that will NOT be on when the START is engaged.
RED-2 runs the TAIL GATE, REAR DEFOG, POWER LOCKS column on the right of the fuse block. Again, that will NOT be on when the START is engaged.
PNK-3 is connected to BAT in both RUN and START. It connects to the stack of stuff on the left side of the fuse block picture: CRUISE CONTROL, REAR DEFOGGER, AUX FUEL TANK SEL SW, OVER SPEED WRNG, AUTO TRANS.
If you need a feed uninterrupted by starting, you need to connect to PNK-3.
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this will help me a lot. I can trace wires and kind of work my way through a diagram but the rest of what you know is awesome. Thanks 8)
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De nada.
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the reason i was thinking a switch on a keyed hot was just in case you forgot to switch it off it would still be off. but pnk-3 seams like a good choice, was trying to think of a spot that was on by key but not interrupted but i couldn't think of anything that would do that
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Thanks for the directions rich. I found the right place on fuse panel even checked with a test light hooked in my keyed hot (yellow wire) same problem. So now I have to get ridetech to understand that everything on my side is working. I wonder how well this is going to go. We'll see :o
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ok ridetech is working really well with me and my problem they sent me a brand new ecm. I swapped it out with old one now compressor will kick on with truck running but it only runs for 3 seconds at a time. So I got the handy dandy voltage meter back out and checked. With the truck running I get 14.2-14.3 volts to wiring harness on airpod. When the compressor kicks on it drops voltage to 12.3 and compressor turns off. I checked at battery same thing when compressor kicks on. I know that should be enough to run it. Does this mean I should have the alt checked or get a higher amp one. What could the other options be. As always any and all replys are welcome. Thanks
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Did you let Ridetech know about the voltage drop? If this was running, and it stayed that low while the compressor was on, I would look into checking the alternator and upgrading...
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You can easily put a 94 amp 12SI alternator in there with no mechanical mods required. You can go even bigger in that same case style (10SI/12SI). Summit, JEGS, they all have them. I would probably do the one wiring mod I recommend if you go that big.
See my write-up in the technical section. It's right near the top.
http://forum.73-87chevytrucks.com/smforum/index.php?topic=28316.0
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No I have just got this done today and I am 2 hrs behind ridetech so by the time I was done they are closed. Thanks for the alt tips I will get a 12si 94amp tomorrow hope that is the last of the problems with that. Maybe it will help with my other electrical problem. I will start a new thread about it.
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I think you want the ears at 180 degrees apart and the connector at 3:00 as viewed from the rear. Look at yours before you go. There were a lot of variations. My write-up says which vehicle cross-references to the 180*/3:00 unit, so the parts store can look it up from that.
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Are you sure the alternator belt is sufficiently tight? It's easy to confirm. With the engine off, can you rotate the alternator fan by hand with some effort, or does the belt hold it completely firm? Belt slippage will be exaggerated by a higher output alternator, because of the greater torque requirement. The solution may be as simple as adjusting the belt.
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I will take the alt with me to compare the 2. I did check the belt tension it is good its my power steering belt I have trouble getting tight.