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73-87 Chevy _ GMC Trucks => Brakes, Frame, Steering & Suspension => Topic started by: manualburb on July 01, 2014, 01:23:09 am
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So my 1990 2500 Burb is stock height right now, I will be lifting shortly ( as soon as figure out why the speedo and fuel gauge quit working ) anyways I want something that will flex better than just 4" or 6" lift springs. I found this on another site and it is completely Greek to me?
(Put some 2" lift 52in springs up front with a zero rate and a shackle flip and 2in lift springs plus a zero rate. That will give you 7" total suspension lift front and back. I guess you could put a body lift on top of that if you so desired, but don't. 7" is more than enough to clear 40s and still not look hacked up) Well for one I don't want to run 40's or cut up fenders. 35" is plenty for me I was wondering where one would get a 52" front spring and what is zero rate? Can someone please help me decipher the code thanks guys.
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52" springs come from the back of a standard suspension pickup. Zero rate is what Offroad design calls they "lift" spacer.
I don't think you are going to be anywhere near a 7" lift with that, more like 4".
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4" would be fine, so your saying I just need some stock rear 52" springs and they will bolt right in the front, do you suggerst a shakel flip for the rear, I dont like blocks. I dont think you can run 35s with just a 4"lift without rubbing, do you suggest 33s?
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if you use a shackle flip for the rear it will move the rear axle forward and it wont be centered anymore. your rear springs are 52 like said and they give you 4-5" of lift. so if you get a 2" leaf spring lift on 52" that will get you 6-7" theoretically. no need for the 1" zero rate. but to fit 40s i dont think 7" will do that and give you the clearance you want. then you talk about flex this is kind of a problem when you will barely clear your tires.
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To get a cheap lift you really need the 52" on front and this isn't a "let's put my rear springs in front it is more involved than that. You have to cut the front spring mount brace off the body mount and the spring mount off and move it to the front of the body mount and reattach brace. For the back if the front spring ideally you need to modify the rear mount location and add a longer shackle.
For the rear lift. You have to do a shackle flip. To match the front. You can buy a kit or you can use the front leaf mount from a 2wd on there.
Chris Lucas
73-87chevytrucks.com
captkaoscustoms.com
squarebody.biz
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Ok that sounds more involved than I thought, My old suburban had a 4" suspension lift with blocks in rear and it rode like a tank but 33s looked perfect under it. I would like to run 35s but not a big fan of fender trimming or body lifts. And with a 6" lift don't you have to worry about steering, lengthening front driveline, transfer case drop? And would an all spring 4" lift have a better ride quality than the blocks in the rear? thank you again guys. I like to have an idea before I go out and spend hard earned money.
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depends on the company, i have rough county 6" and it is rough. they make different styles but you lose some of your gvwr cause the springs are softer so they rider better but cant hold up as much weight. again with blocks it all depends on what springs they are under, but you cant put block up front so you still need good springs up there
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Ya I know blocks up front are dangerous and a no no. A 6" all spring lift would be ideal, but also big $$$$$$ compared to blocks. Are the rumors true that with the 6" you need extended brake lines,steering, legthin front driveline ect.......... maybe I could live with a 4" suspension and a 2" body to run 35s.?
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you don’t need to (you could just remove the clips also frowned upon) but i went with the braided lines with rough country and they got them from skyjacker
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As far as your original question on flexing. You have to do your home work on different lift companies.
Flex starts with springs, not all springs are equal as far as they are made. Next is the spring hangers, the tighter they are (as far as squeezing the spring eye bolts and holding them tight, and keeping them from twisting, which will help with flex) the less flex you will get. The aftermarket makes spring hangers that are designed to allow more flex.
Sway bar quick disconnects are a easy, fast way to get more flex when off roading, just don't forget to hook back up when getting on the road.
Buggy springs are an option for great flex (though I would not run them on a family or mostly road vehicle.
(http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachments/toyota-truck-4runner/212407d1130480353-does-anyone-here-run-buggy-springs-buggyleaf1.jpg)
As you can see in this pic, the rear spring hanger is actually mounted to a cut spring that is mounted forward to the frame rail. I have run these on several of my Jeeps in the past years. They can give you an easy 4-5" of additional drop, front and back. Though driving on the road at high speeds especially around turns in a heavy vehicle could really be scary. My jeeps were geared really low for rock crawling and got trailer'd to the events most of the time.
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Ok I think the best route for me to go since I need hubs, 4 or 6 inch lift, headers, exhaust is to buy a complete chevy 1973-1990 with the parts I need already on it. they are plentiful and go for around $800 - $1500 I appreciate all the input guys thank you.