73-87chevytrucks.com
73-87 Chevy _ GMC Trucks => 73-87 Chevy & GMC Trucks => Topic started by: Tonka on July 13, 2014, 09:56:35 am
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Ordered the one piece products one piece window kit through the site. Drop shipment from california took forever. When it did arrive the kit was without any of the hardware. Hardware had to be requested from One piece products and then sent back out all the way from the west coast. 2 months goes by and I finally have a window of time (an entire weekend) set aside to do the install.
None of his equipment (the vertical guides and 4" extensions) match up. The youtube videos and the directions show completely different guides from what he sent me. They are not even remotely close.
The directions are completely unclear as to where you are supposed to bolt things up. The Youtube video fails to show important details as well. I literally haven't even begun the install yet and I am sitting here waiting for a phone call from One Piece's rock with lips owner to help resolve this. Every door in chevy trucks from 73-91 are not the same. In fact they are VERY different. To include directions alluding to none of these differences is completely irresponsible. Both his video and instruction book show directions for doing the install on a truck with power windows. Mine does not have power windows. Mine are manual. In the video he shows a later model truck with a lot more access to the inside of the door. Mine does not. Am I supposed to unlatch the door handle? What about the lock mechanism?
Make note this is not an inexpensive kit. In fact it is VERY expensive. I pay a lot but I expect quality. PERIOD.
I must have watched his 7 (1,2,3,4,5,6,7!) video series on Youtube 5 times before beginning this. I brought my laptop to the garage to watch and go along with for the entire install. I knew this was going to be an abortion but I had no clue. And I discover this after I take the dremel to little tabs on the inside of the door. Now I'm locked in for this whether I want it still or not.
This country and it's businesses have gone completely to heck.
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Shipping from California to North Carolina is going to take some time since you are on polar opposites of the US. Generally 5 days. Unfortunately I didn't have any of these at my location to ship, and when I do they generally are sold fairly quickly. I am pretty sure I informed all orders based on my notes on them that there would be a delay. If I didn't, I apologize as I don't generally put a note that I did and not do it. I was waiting for a shipment of mine to show up here when yours got shipped, they just sent you one of my inventory.
You ordered them on March 7th which was a Friday at 4:42pm Central. I am technically closed after noon on Fridays, so the order was processed on Tuesday. (generally I need 2 days to catch up on orders over the weekend as it is just me here). I generally have them not ship any of my orders incomplete so I made a note to hold it until the scrapers were there. It was going to be shipped on the 3/14 incomplete until I called to make sure they didn't ship it without the scrapers. After talking to you, you wanted it shipped incomplete without the scrapers to get them there. I was told it was going to be shipped on the 18th incomplete, but since I had told him 3 different stories during that week he wasn't sure so it didn't got out. When I called on that Friday 3/21 asking for a status he said they had the tracking number for the scrapers to arrive that Evening so they sent it with the scrapers on 3/24 and it arrived at your location on 3/28 4 days later. Note that the catalog states that you must wait 7 days before it is shipped also...
On 4/1 you notified me that it was missing the hardware kit via PM on the forum. You received it on 4/3. So it has been 3 months since you got everything instead of 2.
What isn't the same on the Vertical guides, they haven't changed in 5 years? The 4" extension is just a flat piece of metal with 2 holes in it.. Please take a picture of what you have...
The front guide bolts in the same location at the original vent window you just elongate the holes in the door. I generally get the door rolling up and down before putting it in and elongating them as does the video instructions. I also do this prior to grinding the hinge nuts.
The original rear guide has the new 4" extension bolted to it and is mounted rearward with the extension in the original rear guide location.
What is "rock with lips"? I haven't gotten a call from you but One piece is closed on Sundays. If you want to call me, my company number goes to voicemail and notifies my cell when I am closed if you want to call me. I am working on mine getting the new dash in and working to get the AC charged, so it might take a minute to call you back if you call. I generally use my weekend time for family and projects, so....
There are only 2 versions of doors for this series and are not very different at all: 73-76 and 77-91. The only thing that changed on them is the inner panel which was changed to add the 2 lower brace bolts for the power window regulator that started in 1977. The rest of the door is exactly the same in the way the glass mounts.
There is one "gotcha" difference and that is all 1973 and some 1974 doors use a different roller and guide on the inside panel of the door for the regulator, so if you have this one you are locked into these regulators, still nothing to do with how the glass mounts.
Directions were done on the power window setup as it is the most involved. Manuals are straight forward as you don't have to worry about the power locks.
Your truck is a 77, based on your project post, so the door in the inside is exactly the same as yours and has no more access than yours. The 73-76 doesn't have the smaller hole at the bottom.
See here for door differences: http://forum.73-87chevytrucks.com/smforum/index.php?topic=14625.0 (http://forum.73-87chevytrucks.com/smforum/index.php?topic=14625.0)
To install the kit the handle has to be removed, which is why it isn't in the door in the video or the instruction manual. The lock cylinder also has to be removed per the instructions as you have to trim it to miss the glass. If you follow the manual EXACTLY in the order it states you should have no issues.
Although this kit isn't cheap, it is equivalent to buying new or rebuilt vent windows. As of 2009, when I could source factory vent windows, they were listing from the dealer for $325 apiece, my cost.
As for the top 2 tabs, I have never cut them. I generally pry the spot weld apart and bend them back.
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Chris in no way do I want you to feel this has to do with you. You did the best you could during the ordering process and I commend you for your good communication as we sorted it out. But he did forget the hardware which he sent, and he did send me the completely wrong vertical guides which are in no way even similar to the ones in his directions or his 7 part instructional videos.
What isn't the same on the Vertical guides, they haven't changed in 5 years? The 4" extension is just a flat piece of metal with 2 holes in it.. Please take a picture of what you have...
Mine will not mount to the back and mine are 90 degrees different where they bolt up and do not line up with any holes on the doors.
The original rear guide has the new 4" extension bolted to it and is mounted rearward with the extension in the original rear guide location.
What is "rock with lips"?
A rock with lips is a military term for a dummy. I think the owner of OPP is a big fat dummy and I stand by that. He should have hired someone else to shoot his video and not done it on a cell phone. The only thing more lacking than his video are his written instructions. I could cite a dozen vague issues I have with it but I choose not to. Bottom line- A bit of professionalism goes a long way.
There are only 2 versions of doors for this series and are not very different at all: 73-76 and 77-91. The only thing that changed on them is the inner panel which was changed to add the 2 lower brace bolts for the power window regulator that started in 1977. The rest of the door is exactly the same in the way the glass mounts.
There is one "gotcha" difference and that is all 1973 and some 1974 doors use a different roller and guide on the inside panel of the door for the regulator, so if you have this one you are locked into these regulators, still nothing to do with how the glass mounts
So the inner panel on all of these doors is exactly the same? That is what you are saying? With the exact same access holes? Not in my experience. And if I show you mine and you watch his video the difference is clear.
Directions were done on the power window setup as it is the most involved. Manuals are straight forward as you don't have to worry about the power locks.
But I still need to elongate the rod and do I still need to relocate it to the bottom of the door? Where does it clearly state ANY differences or specific instructions for manual locks? Answer- it doesn't.
Your truck is a 77, based on your project post, so the door in the inside is exactly the same as yours and has no more access than yours. The 73-76 doesn't have the smaller hole at the bottom.
See here for door differences: http://forum.73-87chevytrucks.com/smforum/index.php?topic=14625.0 (http://forum.73-87chevytrucks.com/smforum/index.php?topic=14625.0)
To install the kit the handle has to be removed, which is why it isn't in the door in the video or the instruction manual. The lock cylinder also has to be removed per the instructions as you have to trim it to miss the glass. If you follow the manual EXACTLY in the order it states you should have no issues.
Although this kit isn't cheap, it is equivalent to buying new or rebuilt vent windows. As of 2009, when I could source factory vent windows, they were listing from the dealer for $325 apiece, my cost.
As for the top 2 tabs, I have never cut them. I generally pry the spot weld apart and bend them back.
Well that would have been nice to know. Now I've butchered up my otherwise perfect condition and freshly painted original detroit steel doors with zero rust.
Where he says "elongate the holes to allow for more adjustment later on" he never shows a picture or a close up in the video as to whether you elongate the hole north to south or east to west. Well which is it?
He sends you rivets to rivet the window felts on but says he actually prefers using self tapping screws. Well then why didn't you just send self tapping screws?
I can cite more issues with the instructions if you wish but I am only getting started on the project.
Guy is a rock with lips period.
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I couldn't read that so I inserted the quotes appropriately. Insulting people isn't going to get you any closer to getting these installed, so kindly stop. Insulting remarks will be removed from this post later... If this becomes a bash session, it will be removed completely. As I see it you are having issues understanding the instructions and getting the kit installed.
and he did send me the completely wrong vertical guides which are in no way even similar to the ones in his directions or his 7 part instructional videos.
Watched the videos, it never showed the vertical guides.. Pics of them are attached to this post with the labels on them...
They are also on page 5 here: http://www.73-87chevytrucks.com/techinfo/OPP_Manual_WindowConversionKit.pdf.
Mine will not mount to the back and mine are 90 degrees different where they bolt up and do not line up with any holes on the doors.
They don't bolt to the back of anything, they go where the vent window was attached on the guide attached to the front of the glass. Where are you trying to put them?
The only thing that goes on the back of the door is what you removed which is the rear guide with the extension on it. Pretty detailed pics are in the instructions.
Look at page 11 here and go forward... http://www.73-87chevytrucks.com/techinfo/OPP_Manual_WindowConversionKit.pdf
So the inner panel on all of these doors is exactly the same? That is what you are saying? With the exact same access holes? Not in my experience. And if I show you mine and you watch his video the difference is clear.
No, I am saying there are 2 different inner panels for doors. 1) 73-76 and 2)77-91. His video is of 77-91 doors. Did you even look at the thread on door differnces? I have been working on these trucks for 30 years now and have 9 of them. There are only 2 door shells.
This is them... read the post...
73-76:
(http://www.captkaoscustoms.com/images/73-76door.jpg)
77-91
(http://www.captkaoscustoms.com/images/77-91door.jpg)
But I still need to elongate the rod and do I still need to relocate it to the bottom of the door? Where does it clearly state ANY differences or specific instructions for manual locks? Answer- it doesn't.
What? The power lock portion attached to latch. The power lock solenoid has to move to the bottom of the door for power kits or the glass won't roll down. The manual lock rod is the same for both power and manual.. You don't change a thing on a manual one.. It doesn't show anything because nothing changes.
Well that would have been nice to know. Now I've butchered up my otherwise perfect condition and freshly painted original detroit steel doors with zero rust.
Again, if you had questions why didn't you call first. The instruction manual is there so you will know what you are getting into prior.
Where he says "elongate the holes to allow for more adjustment later on" he never shows a picture or a close up in the video as to whether you elongate the hole north to south or east to west. Well which is it?
Again. I don't elongate them at all until I get the glass in and roll it up or down. There is a close up on it on this video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2iazPsrWM4c (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2iazPsrWM4c) at the 3:00 mark... It was down and to the rear of the door on this one. The top one didn't change on this door.. I can say it is typically down and back some on the bottom hole, but I don't do anything to them until I get the glass in and rolling up and down.
He sends you rivets to rivet the window felts on but says he actually prefers using self tapping screws. Well then why didn't you just send self tapping screws?
Because that is what he prefers. Most people expect it to be riveted on... if you want to use screws you can. He also prefers not to use the felt tape over the paint.. should he leave that out also?
I can cite more issues with the instructions if you wish but I am only getting started on the project.
Please let me know what others you have. I appears you are trying to put things in the wrong place. 2 other people ordered at the same time you did and go them installed and sent pictures and send compliments and had the same instructions.
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Those vertical window guides are substantially different than the ones shown both in the directions and in the video. The ones in the video and the instructions have a different middle L bracket.
Mine are neither. Where I said they were 90 degrees different you can see in this photo where the bolt goes into the middle L shaped bracket. The one you show in your picture (which is not a blurry pixelated picture printed off of a household computer like his instructions are), if this IS the correct bracket it appears the bracket assembler mounted the mounting nut, on my bracket, in the wrong place. The bolt for the 4" bracket mounts towards the window track. It is impossible to mount the 4" extension how he shows in the video. He doesn't show in the video or the instructions EXACTLY how you mount this bracket up even if it was the correct bracket. Which, it isn't. It is not the same bracket in the video. Not even close. He failed on quality control.
Like I said I am not bashing you Chris. All along you have gone WELL above and beyond what typical CS would be. Truth is I shouldn't even be communicating to you at this point. I emailed One Piece Products, twice, called once and Facebook messaged him once. If I as a small business owner received something like that on my "day off" I would be on the phone fast as lightning. My small business doesn't take days off ESPECIALLY when it comes to dealing with an unhappy customer. That's how you and I do business and to me that is the correct way.
Look at these pics side by side with this video fast forwarded to the 1:58 mark. It is nowhere near the correct part.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WCS1tNhgJjU
(http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o29/cassiusclaynyc/48E0CA96-130C-4519-8C64-CE9BAFB451AB_zpsmlyntikt.jpg)
(http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o29/cassiusclaynyc/2C7A6422-150A-4BEB-820C-4E3660111617_zpssixpof11.jpg)
(http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o29/cassiusclaynyc/29BFC601-240F-45A0-8DE5-4CC7FB3C380E_zps86bmytdn.jpg)
Now the guides you show in your pics resemble mine more closely (where the ones in the vid and instructions are completely night and day different). However from what I see the welded on mounting nut is on the wrong side of the l- bracket. If he changed his design a simple edit on his PDF of the instructions would have helped. A more professionally shot and edited video would have done even more. Having a local printing company print the instructions with proper photos would make this entire argument a non-issue. Stating that "users mounting this system on vehicles equipped with manual locks need not worry about relocating the lock mechanism" would also help. The directions are unclear, laughable even.
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You got all of this wrong. It seems like you are trying to re-engineer the kit or understand how it works without reading the instructions. Read through the instructions again, lay out all the parts that came in the kit.
The bracket you are saying that you got incorrectly is the factory piece. It is NOT supplied in the kit. You are trying to put the extension that goes on the factory rear guide onto the newly supplied front guide. It doesn't go there, why would you think it does? If it needed an extension on the provided one it would have just been part of the bracket and not sent separately.
The guide you are trying to put that extension on bolts to the same holes as the Vent window channel does at the front of the door.
The extension goes on the existing rear guide at the back of the door that was removed with the original glass and uses the same holes as it originally connected to..
There is only 2 brackets that come in the kit.
1) Front vertical guide
2) Rear 4" extension, which bolts to the rear vertical guide that came in the door with the original glass.
I attached a picture of both front (supplied) and the rear (factory) guide with the 4" extension bolted to it for one side so you will know where they go.
The lock mechanism cannot be relocated on either manual or power, it is integrated into the latch mechanism that is bolted to the face of the door and doesn't change if you have manual or power. Only the power solenoid has to be relocated.
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Wow I had no clue I had to reuse the existing door guides. Honestly I went through the directions and the videos multiple times. The ones he bolts up in the video appear to be brand new. Thank you Chris for helping me out. He appears to use brand new guides in the video. As you can see I have little understanding of how this system works etc. What he calls a vertical window guide, someone calls something else.
As I go through the instructions I keep seeing more and more stuff that I am in the dark as to.
If you look on page 14 he says
"roller install important tip: remember to remove the regulator assembly if you need to change the new rollers that come with this kit. just remember to grease the roller run channel and the front slide guide bracket. "
Say again?
How about explaining why I would need to replace existing rollers. I have brand new regulators from Napa. Will my rollers work? What are the conditions that would exist making roller replacement necessary?
It's this kind of vague sloppy instruction that has me lost on this. Thank you again for helping sort through this mess.
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If you have new rollers, you don't have to install new ones.
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How far down do you have to grind that door hinge nut? I'm about halfway through the passenger side, using a dremel with a grinding stone. Wearin me out! Thank you!
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I have one side 90% installed but it is binding pretty bad. Not rolling up smooth at all. It binds hard at the halfway point. The lower nut on the upper door hinge I ground down almost completely flat. It still binds. Should I cut the c-channel rubber where it is near the ground off nut and instead use that felt tape he included with the kit? How much of a "slot" do you do to the holes that mount the front and rear track guides? Nowhere in his instructions does he tell you exactly how much of a slot is necessary nor does he say which way is typically the direction adjustment is needed. He also doesn't allude to how to trouble shoot any issues you may have with adjustment. Just leaves it up to you to figure out. Meanwhile he has done dozens maybe even hundreds of these installs.
My second weekend committed to this.
Does it usually take people this long and is it usually this frustrating? My door seems too wide at the gap for this to ever work properly even if I do fix the binding. The gap is very wide and compressing it the way he shows in his video has not improved it one bit. Is my window going to rattle around?
Are you aware that the way he installs the kit in the video is not even at all similar to the way his printed instructions show? He does the install in the video in a completely different order, almost backwards from how he shows in his printed instructions.
He also makes no distinctions for what people with a manual setup should do.
That one inch hole he instructs you to drill to install the nut on the window bolt that attaches it to the horizontal channel is not at all necessary. Simply roll the window down far enough and use a 1/4" ratchet and appropriate socket.
He lists the kit for C10's but clearly it works on more than just 2WD trucks.
Thanks again Kaos. I am in the dark completely on how to do this. I work M-Saturday and he is closed weekends making his technical support not all that helpful.
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All total this weekend I had 16-17 hours working on this project. Passenger side window is in. But its movement is disgusting and as of now I have to resume this nightmare next weekend. With new door cards, window regulators, door cranks and armrests plus tools and other tidbits I have well over $1200 invested in this and I am not at all a satisfied customer of both One Piece Products and one of this sites biggest competitors (the Large online truck Company). People just do not manufacture quality stuff anymore. And to make matters worse they frankly don't give a crap.
The window scrapers would have never fit in their shipped length. I had to trim 5-6" off each of them. The new door cards I received are flimsy thin plastic junk. The included hardware with the door cards was not up to standard and I will have to remove this entire job and redo everything to get it right. I may even just trash the new cards and order from a more reputable source. My truck looks like crap. The window scrapers scratched the newly painted window frames extensively trying to get them to fit. Having that fixed at the body shop is going to cost hundreds of dollars and may not ever be as perfect as it was.
If I were you Chris, and this is just my opinion, I would cease selling these kits. They do not live up to expectation. The description on their site says "designed to be installed by a novice" and frankly that just is not true. It is a lie. This is no way a "novice" level project. The only thing novice is the level of the instructions both on Youtube and the printed 30+ page manual included.
I have spent close to 6 years working on this truck. A full nut and bolt frame off resto/mod. The paint job and bodywork on this truck cost me thousands. He could have stated in the directions that the window scrapers could likely scratch up your vehicle and to apply blue painters tape to protect during install. He could have done a lot but he didn't and now I'm screwed.
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Sorry to hear this turned out so bad for you. The reviews I've read online are both positive and negative. As far as scratching your paint and suggesting they tell you to put blue tape...well I will tell you whenever I work on anything with nice paint I protect those areas appropriately and that should be common sense. Have you asked someone else who has installed these if they've had the same issues? When custom fabricating anything one should never state that a "novice" can do it if it is not true. Be patient, you'll get it right.
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Thanks Vile. I've never messed with window scrapers (felts?) and had no idea they could scratch your paint up like they could. The windows don't work at all like I thought they would. I have to use my hand to 'guide' it into seating perfect in the rubber run channel. I don't know how I can get it to work. I put a lot into this both financially and with time. I'd say I am not a novice turning wrenches either. He could probably make himself a lot of money if he sorted out the issues I've pointed out. As of now I do not recommend this mod.
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I am on vacation until the 28th with the family so... I can tell you 2 other kits were sold in the same period and they didn't have any if the questions you are having. You are the second person to have issues that I have sold kits to and the first one was when the kit just came out years ago. Typically this is a one weekend job for those that haven't done it before but are familiar with the door workings of these trucks.
Chris Lucas
73-87chevytrucks.com
captkaoscustoms.com
squarebody.biz
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You are right. I'm a dummy and his directions are thorough and comprehensive. Heading back out to the garage, dragging out all the tools and again going at this beast. Further research shows that me and one other guy aren't the only ones who feel this kit is a giant fail. This problem actually goes back 6+ years. It is 2014. I find reviews that bash this kit going back to '08.
Ben should have re-done his directions period! And his youtube instructional! It's that simple! I am sure you Chris had an easy go at it. That much I don't deny. But just because you did, does not mean that everyone who does is an idiot who knows nothing about cars. I found a lot of negative reviews on the kit and in fact not one positive! One reviewer gave up, paid a hot rod door glass shop $500 (door glass specialists) and they spent 2 weeks working on it because they had to keep walking away from it in frustration. The only thing worse than the kit (and its instructions) is the damage that seems to pile up the more I work on it (scratched up window frames, over or under elongated holes, door lock mechanisms that may be cut too short, weakened structure on the for hinge nut I had to grind completely off with a dremel for 4 hours on one side alone).
The kit needs complete and comprehensive TROUBLESHOOTING on how to adjust the glass to make it fit. As it stands he offers NONE.
example:
If the glass goes up wrong and is doing this then you need to most likely adjust the rear track forward (or backwards) etc etc.
If your window is still binding after completely grinding off 1/3rd of your upper door hinge nuts you should adjust the front track this way etc etc
Leaving this very important step up to the "novice installer" guessing his way through it and in turn widening and elongating mounting holes that you may not need to do is very careless and sloppy! I have enough money poured into my truck to buy a house. We all do. None of us take damaging our pride n joys lightly.
Truth is he invented and manufactured something very unique and highly marketable. The quality of the glass and included equipment is good enough to justify the price.
He could sell boatloads of these and make more money, live in a nicer house, all the things that come with being a good entrepreneur if he only finished the job he started.
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Tonka,
Where do you live? I wonder if anyone is close enough by to give you a hand a fresh set of eyes.
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Thank you Vile! I appreciate that very much. I have a friend coming by who knows a few things to take a look. He's built some killer rides over the years and is no stranger to fab work like I am. I'm outside Greenville South Carolina.
Doing the drivers side currently and hope it goes a lot smoother. So far it has but my brand new rear window guide track broke before I even stuck it in the door so I am waiting on the vendor to ship out another. The tack welded nut on the back of the middle mount on the track broke off when I began to attach the 4" extension. I noticed the nut had some junk on the threads and I ran a tap through it to clean up the threads. It was welded off center to begin with and poorly at that. I tried JB welding it, let it sit for 4 days and unfortunately the JB weld did not hold. I called the vendor when it happened to let them know that I had yet another issue with their stuff but that I would try and fix it on my own and if I failed I would call them back to get another... 4 days later I begin the install and the JB just doesn't hold the retainer nut. I called the vendor up and they are shipping me out another. Generally they have decent customer service but the quality of their parts is as bad as it gets. I've spent tens of thousands of dollars there and only now have I begun to realize my loyalty to the brand is a waste of time and money. The new door cards I received from them weigh 1/4th as much as the OEM ones I have in the garage (too beat up to use though :( )
I had an easier go grinding down the drivers side door hinge nut by using one of Dremels amazing quick disconnect cutoff wheels. Those things are a must own! I cut the nut down with the wheel in about 5 minutes and then took dremels big grinding stone to it and within a few minutes all was well. Reattached that cutoff well and cut the door lock bar in place and didn't even have to remove the lock cylinder. All total that cutoff wheel saved me 3-4 hours already.
No matter how much faster this side goes I still have no clue how to fix the binding or how to adjust the window to fit properly.
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Completed this install today!! RAHHHH!!! The drivers side went a lot easier and I pretty much slapped it together 1,2,3. Total time today was around 5 hours plus 2-3 hours m,w,f.
Where One Piece Products says to just shave that nut all the way off, what you really need to do is continue grinding and remove a bit more of the inner door hinge area to make that window go up and down easier. Kaos says all doors from 73-87 are the same but I can't imagine that to be the case. These '77 doors are a very tight fit with that one piece glass. We are talking millimeters! Only way to make em fit is to remove a little bit of material at a time from that inner hinge. Grind a little. Drink a little beer. Grind some more. Beer some more. Each time give it a test run. I had my rear door track as far back as it would go. After that the only give has to come from the front of the door area i.e. the hinge.
I also blue taped the edges of my window frame to prevent scratches during the install of the door panel/inner window scraper. I highly recommend that also. Those rubber window scrapers have very sharp metal inside them at their end point like prison shanks. They will do damage quick so tape up those window frames and in my case I tripled that tape up to ensure it was thick and not going to scratch. The included 3M weatherstrip adhesive is good stuff. It sets up fast. I suggest you ignore Tapia's suggestion to use tape (doesn't work, the rubber scraper will just pop off) and instead use your man mitts and just hold on tight for 10 minutes while listening to conservative talk radio. The news about Obama will be enough to further your anger and ensure a nice strong grip.
This mod is not easy. This mod will make you want to murder people with a 1/2" breaker bar. The instructions are horrible. The instructional video is even worse. Do not murder anyone with the breaker bar. Keep your head about you and plan on doing this incrementally over 1-2 weeks. It cannot be done in speed except painfully slow.
But when it's done... dang does it look sweet! It's one of those mods that only the serious chevy truck heads would ever notice. The result is a super clean looking cab and windows that bind worse than an old mans digestive tract.
But dang does it look good!
(http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o29/cassiusclaynyc/642F72F3-3219-4DD1-8F84-F5DFE29AA0E7_zpshedtngzm.jpg)
(http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o29/cassiusclaynyc/DAA701B2-85A2-4D46-8252-61D959F53441_zps4buoysub.jpg)
(http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o29/cassiusclaynyc/4696D7A6-0793-4DE0-A8B1-88FB3D27A4BA_zpstjkogi06.jpg)
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Glad you're making some forward progress and are starting to see the light at the end of the tunnel. Your pics aren't working.
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They look great!!! But I'm keeping my wings
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Pix are working now. Beauty. How about a side shot?
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Capt didn't say all the doors are the same, he said there are two different styles, but they are very similar. Glad it's workin out for you, if you search around a little, you'll find there are two different thickness of glass were used form the factory, don't remember which years were which but some of the glass was about 1/16th inch thicker than others, so that's probably why you had to do so much more grinding to get it smooth.
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Thanks guys. I'm gonna give it a couple weeks, pop off the passenger side panel and see if I can't make any more room in there. It's not too bad but You do have to watch how the glass seats on the top of the frame. It can go in at an angle so I am thinking the bottom bolts on the window tracks have to be tightened down a bit more.
That and more grinding.
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I am just now able to get back to the forum, but typically I mark the main holes, mount the pieces and roll the window up/down before grinding anything. Depending on how much it is hitting and where, I do the hole adjustment first and leave the one bolt out. If it hits the nut or isn't going up without binding then I grind the nut.
As for the elongation, it is pretty intuitive on where to elongate the holes. If it is binding in the front the hole needs to be elongated rearward. This is the only direction the glass can go.
I didn't say all doors are the same, I said there were 2 versions of doors. The shell itself is the same mold. Tolerances on these were wide, it was just a truck and just had to be close.
I have used tape on them to hold them on all the ones I have done.. You do have to hold them to set for a while prior though. I also recommend not rolling them up/down for at least a couple days.
Glass thickness changed in 81, the difference is the thickness of the run channel so it HAS to match the glass, since the kits come with new glass you don't worry about this.
Which side is binding and what needs adjusting?
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Are they ever going to make this kit in shaded glass do you know? I know they currently do not.
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Vile, No plans on shaded glass.