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73-87 Chevy _ GMC Trucks => 73-87 Chevy & GMC Trucks => Topic started by: SUX2BU99 on September 13, 2014, 02:11:08 am
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I recently replaced front calipers, pads and passenger side brake line with all new parts and had the rotors turned. When I apply more than light brake pressure, the truck pulls to the left. The harder I press, the more it pulls. Otherwise it drives straight just fine. If I had replaced the left side hose, I could see this happening thinking that the left side hose is passing fluid better than the right. But I replaced the right side hose because it was collapsed and caused my right caliper to drag. But it pulls to the left. Any ideas? I also find that I have to push the pedal a good 1/3 of the way before I feel the brakes engage.
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Rebleed the brakes to purge the tiny amount of residual air trapped in the right side.
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I've had that happen to me before when I replaced front lines, and calipers. Had been braking good and straight prior. Either something got in line, the piston is stuck, or it's an air pocket. Sometimes if it's real high up, it will take a lot of bleeding and/or time for it to clear out. A better practice would be to plug the line that you open, and keep the reservoir filled. Mine just cleared itself with usage until one day it braked straight. If you have bled the system properly, I would remove both calipers, brake, and verify both are extended. Maybe compress them and cycle them a couple times like this. Good luck Man!
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Sounds to me like the caliper piston on the right side has seized.
Check the piston to see if it moves freely, if so then suspect the hose has collapsed.
Air in the lines won't cause a pull as pressure is equal in all parts of the front brake system at all times. Like wise for the rear.
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As bd stated re-bleed the front brakes. The part of pushing the brakes 1/3 of the way before you feel the brakes is suspect of air in the line/s.
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Replace the other flex line
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First off, I need to go back to kindergarten as it's actually the LEFT side that it's pulling to (despite the title of my thread). Anyway its the right side I replaced the hose on. I will replace the left side hose though and re-bleed both sides. I did left the fluid level go down to almost dry in the front chamber of the master cylinder when that side was leaking so perhaps more air got in there than I thought. I did obviously bleed both sides with the help of my nephew doing the push down pedal, hold, crack valve, close valve, release pedal method. But yes, I do feel the brake pedal should have a firmer feel so hopefully this will be the cause of the issue (air in the lines).
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Make sure when you are bleeding the brakes the master cylinder does not drop the level too low and go dry again.
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You need to replace caliper and pads on both sides at the same time
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This may sound really simple and almost make one feel really dumb but I speak from experience. When you finished doing the brake job and noticed how dirty the wheels and tires are did you by chance clean them with a tire cleaner. I ask this because the all have an petroleum base and if you got it on the disc of in the hubs you will certainly kill your truck and or your self while trying to break.
I didn't actually do this to myself but a neighbor did it to me on the passenger side to prove that what he used was better at cleaning than what he saw me using. I admit the aresol tire and wheel cleaner did a great job but it also almost killed me and tok out several cars in the process. A scotch brite and brake cleaner did the trick..oh ad new pads.
There is also the chance the you got brake fluid on the rotor.