73-87chevytrucks.com
73-87 Chevy _ GMC Trucks => Electrical => Topic started by: IdahoMan on October 16, 2014, 02:29:29 PM
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Hi.
I'm considering putting one or more cigarette-lighter power sockets on/in my truck (like in the bed and behind the seat).
I know there are tutorials online that deal with this, but how about on our trucks? What wires do I tap into? How much does the Voltage and Amperage fluctuate on the circuit? How many sockets can I have? Do I need a aux battery system? Etc, etc..
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Are there other plug types out there for certain uses, besides the Cigarette-Lighter, that I don't know about? You know, to run equipment off of? Campers, spot-lights, welders, saws, whatever.. Just think'n about what kind of scheme to go with for using my truck to power stuff. Behind the seat I was considering a sort of custom-made flashlight-charger holster and 12C Cig. Socket. I imagine I'd have to rig some circuitry/PCB to regulate things to keep it from draining the battery (is there an electronic engineer in the house?)
Just thinking out loud here. Kind of like my "What's behind your seat.." Thread, do any of you have a system for using your truck with electrical tools/toys?
Sincerely,
IM
tags: 12v, lighter, socket, cigarette
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What kind of devices are you planning on powering? You are probably better off running a dedicated circuit as opposed to tapping into an existing circuit. For exterior mounting you will want a weatherproof or marine grade receptacle. How and where you mount it is up to you. Do you want it stealth? In your bumper? etc
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A 6 place fuse box would give you a place to power a few sockets per fuse. Run some 4 gage wire with a circuit breaker in line to it.
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i wouldn't use my truck to power anything except itself a v8 is a gas hog if your using it to power a saw i dont know if a power inverter would power one. it wont touch a welder. i would op for a portable welder most times they are a little bigger than a generator but you can power most things and weld off them plus they use less gas than a truck. only problem is they wont fit behind your seat
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What kind of devices are you planning on powering? You are probably better off running a dedicated circuit as opposed to tapping into an existing circuit. For exterior mounting you will want a weatherproof or marine grade receptacle. How and where you mount it is up to you. Do you want it stealth? In your bumper? etc
BUMP.
Still searching. Reading on other sites about RV-ers and their appliances. AMPs they draw, and whatnot. My tuck is going to be a 12v system obviously, not a 24v.
But what's the "proper" or say typical amperage for a 12v socket? 20, 30, 55 AMP? Or do the higher-power devices have different plugs?
10ga wire is big and harder to place in the cab, so maybe I could go with 12ga and a 20A breaker inside, and up to around 60A for the bed. I will need another battery of course (deep-cycle) and a heavier alternator.
It's just nice to know your truck has reserve power for whatever you might come across.
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Its not so much voltage you have to worry about. To run most tools like your talking about you need 110v and that only happens with an inverter. If you want to use smaller devices like usb stuff then you only need 5v.
To give you an example a 110v grinder can use upwards of 7.5a of power and that would take a entirely dedicated system to not hurt the truck.
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Why do you need another battery and alternator to run another accessory port? What exactly are you going to be supplying current to?
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...what's the "proper" or say typical amperage for a 12v socket? 20, 30, 55 AMP? Or do the higher-power devices have different plugs?
10ga wire is big and harder to place in the cab, so maybe I could go with 12ga and a 20A breaker inside, and up to around 60A for the bed. I will need another battery of course (deep-cycle) and a heavier alternator.
A 60-amp accessory current draw is HUGE! The typical accessory socket is rated for maybe 20 amps, max. Safely tapping any more than 20 amps to the bed will require, conservatively, a dedicated and protected circuit and fully insulated junction block with 5/16"+ stud and a protective insulated cover. For the length of run from the factory battery location, you would need a minimum 4-gauge cable protected by an 8-gauge link (2 & 6 would be better) at the battery, or substitute a manual reset circuit breaker for the link.
I agree with Vile, instead of creating a high-power tap based on some vague, nebulous idea, you need to decide the actual purpose of the circuit then build to suit using a dedicated lead. Or, follow the suggestion posted by Blazin for multiple general use sockets. And, don't skimp on wire size. If you want to add an accessory deep-cycle battery, isolate it from the cranking battery using a diode isolator and reconnect the regulator sensing lead so that it 'sees' cranking battery voltage.
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not to be mean or anything but i think a small generator would be a better idea
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There have been plenty of times I could have used a quiet modest capacity generator.
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I have a inverter and charger in my truck for my 18 volt ryobi tools
I have almost every tool they sell , drill, impact, grinder, saw, weed eater, etc
If you need anything bigger than that you're gonna need a generator or an alternator designed for big power
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There have been plenty of times I could have used a quiet modest capacity generator.
the small Honda gennys are the best
So quiet you cant hear it , and runs two days on a tank of gas
More expensive than other gennys. But totally worth it
We use some sensitive electronics in remote locations and the honda gens are the only ones that provide clean enough power for our computers to work properly
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Good to know!
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A 6 place fuse box would give you a place to power a few sockets per fuse. Run some 4 gage wire with a circuit breaker in line to it.
Would this be a replacement fuse-box for the one that is already under my dash, or a separate one altogether?
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A standalone, additional fuse box to supplement the original factory box. The 6-place box would be used for your add-on accessory sockets and any other added circuits, so as not to overburden the factory wiring. It should have its own primary protection separate from the factory fusible links.
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And, don't skimp on wire size. If you want to add an accessory deep-cycle battery, isolate it from the cranking battery using a diode isolator and reconnect the regulator sensing lead so that it 'sees' cranking battery voltage.
Diode isolator or relay(solenoid)?
What of wire quality? I am aware of AWG/B&S standards and insulation types, but what of metal quality.. any standards on that? One person on another board was using heavy gauge audio wiring for his dual battery setup. Supposedly for better quality (I'm assuming a resistivity/impurity issue).
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What exactly are you trying to accomplish with the second battery? Is it strictly for accessories and toys. Is it to augment starting when the cranking battery is discharged? Is it for high draw appliances such as a lift or winch? A "thumping" sound system? Before you invest in an isolated second battery, determine what you expect from it and plan accordingly.
Whether you use a diode isolator or relay are personal preference. Both have pros/cons. A diode isolator should be rated at alternator capacity or higher and requires rerouting the regulator sensing lead to compensate for voltage loss across the cranking battery diode. There are no moving parts to wear out, but they require space for mounting and airflow for cooling. A relay should be rated at alternator capacity, as well, mounted away from radiant heat and requires an energizing lead generally off the accessory circuit of the ignition switch. There maybe other considerations depending on what you wish to accomplish.
What of wire quality? I am aware of AWG/B&S standards and insulation types, but what of metal quality.. any standards on that? One person on another board was using heavy gauge audio wiring for his dual battery setup. Supposedly for better quality (I'm assuming a resistivity/impurity issue).
You're splitting imaginary hairs! lol There's a lot of false information floating about. Some of it seeded by vendors to promote sales to unsuspecting enthusiasts. The hype sounds very cool, esoteric, even mysterious, but simply isn't true. If an explanation or argument sounds very technical and drops a lot of terminology, immediately suspect its validity and whether it will withstand informed scrutiny. "Oxygen free" copper, impurities in electrical wire causing high resistance... all fabricated concerns to move product or sell an idea. It's just a fact! It doesn't matter how many assurances support the hype if it cannot be supported without bias. If you acquire all-copper electrical wire (no alloys, not copper-clad aluminum) through reputable vendors you'll have no issues - certainly, nothing measurable or demonstrably adverse.
Use suitably-gauged, all-copper cables with appropriately specified insulation. If you require exceptional flexibility in the cable, or are using "0" or larger cable, consider neoprene jacketed welding cable (naturally at higher cost). Crimp and solder (60/40 tin/lead rosin core) the cable terminations, then seal the terminal connections to their cables using adhesive lined double- or triple-wall olefin heat shrink. Jacket the cables with the appropriate style loom and secure them away from excessive heat and abrasion along their lengths using Adele clamps and wire ties. Always allow some slack in the cables via your routing. Really, that is all there is to it. Once you determine exactly what you intend to power up and have estimated the net current demand, post the target numbers and we can assist with gauge recommendations for the length of run. Just bear in mind material costs - the greater the gauge, the higher the strand count, the longer the run, the higher the cost.
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Current status: Putting 12v Cig-Sockets behind the seats.
15, 20, 25 or 30 amps a piece. Each with its own breaker(thermal push or switch type) located next to the socket. Biggest issues are: Where to run the wires and how to get them through the firewall/into the cab.
I don't like to drill, but I may have no choice. Where would a professional do this?
Does the negative wire have to run directly to the source, or can I connect it to the body?
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Your wire needs to be sized according to load and length. If you're supplying 30 amps, and running 5 feet with 12AWG wire, you'll get about .5V drop (so 12V becomes 11.5). That same 12AWG wire at 30A running 10 feet will lose almost 1 volt. Your truck electrical system supplies about 14V and you want at least 12V at the socket, but larger gauge wire never hurts, so If you think you need 8AWG, use 6AWG. The link below has a calculator for voltage drop, just make sure you set it to 12VDC.
Professionals running through the firewall will either use a preexisting hole with a grommet or drill a new hole and install a grommet into the hole, they just usually find somewhere in-conspicuous.
As for the ground, use the same gauge and type of wire (stranded in MUCH better that Solid core for this purpose). Look at the grounds on your truck, there is probably a 4AWG battery to the engine, 10 AWG battery to body, 10 AWG body to frame, braided strap engine to body, and braided strap engine to frame. Anywhere you are running 6AWG power or smaller, you should be fine running the same size ground to the body or frame (make sure you scratch away at the paint where you're attaching the ground.
If you think you'll be using all of these, I would upgrade all the grounds on the truck. I would go 2AWG battery to engine, 6AWG battery to body, 6AWG battery to frame, 6AWG body to frame (the braided ground straps from the engine should be fine but you can get thicker ones). Again, make sure all your ground connections are not touching paint or grease so they make a good connection.
Using steel star washers with grounds is typical because the resist corrosion and help to maintain the ground
http://www.powerstream.com/Wire_Size.htm
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I concur with this ^^^^ kept in context with the other posts in this thread.
I disagree with using star washers, however. GM and various over-the-road truck manufacturers demonstrated long ago that the use of star washers for electrical connections degraded continuity over time because of accelerated corrosion due to increased water intrusion. A more effective approach is to use flat washers and/or flange bolts/nuts that firmly clamp the cable terminal directly to bare metal that is liberally coated with antioxidant. All terminations should be tightly crimped and soldered using 60/40 or 70/30 rosin core solder and then shrink sealed with adhesive lined olefin tubing. This will provide the longest service life.
Cable routing can be through firewall, or under cab and through floor. For added protection, positive cables can be armored using Syn-Flex air hose for conduit rather than fabric or convoluted loom and anchored to the body or frame using Adelle clamps. To increase water rejection, self-sealing bulkhead pass-throughs, available in various styles and configurations, can be employed. For heavy gauge, high-current feeds, I recommend against using rubber grommets - there is too much risk of eventually slicing through cable insulation from cable movement or grommet failure. If you choose to install circuit breakers at the sockets, you'll need to protect the wire runs with fusible links installed at the battery, otherwise you run a risk of fire should a supply cable accidentally ground between the battery and circuit breaker. However, I question the benefit and added cost of "redundant primary circuit protection."
Using the cab or frame for the ground path rather than running dedicated return ground legs should be adequate for your purposes. But as stated in the prior post (especially if using the chassis as the ground path and high-current additions), the various OE ground jumpers should be upgraded.
Now, I have a question. In a new unit of time... how many auxiliary sockets are you intending and why such a broad range of current capacities?
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Thank you both for your responses.
In a new unit of time... how many auxiliary sockets are you intending and why such a broad range of current capacities?
Let's see... interior uses...
Approximates(rough):
Fridge/Freezer...........................1-5A
Oven/FoodWarmer.....................4-12A
WaterBoiler/BevHeater...............7-8A
Searchlight...............................10-100W+ (See: CPF)
Laptops....................................50-200W+
Adapters/Chargers.....................20-100W+
Radio/Com(maybe)....................5-20A
Other/Unexpected......................
Considering, I'd like to have 4 aux sockets on the interior: two behind each seat in the speaker cubby hole area. Blazin's idea for the fuse box would work, although I don't want to run wires all over the creation making bulges under the carpet. The channel under my passenger side door sill plate is open and I was going to run a wire or two through there if it would fit, but if the AWG is 6 or higher -especially using SXL- that isn't going to work.
Cab corner drain-holes? Better than drilling?
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Estimate for an 80-amp maximum draw (20 amps x 4 sockets). String 2-gauge cable protected by 6-gauge link from a 3/8" junction block (http://www.delcity.net/store/Stud-Type-!-Standalone-Surface-Mount-Junction-Block/p_71705.h_806983.t_1) mounted on the radiator support adjacent to the battery into the cab through the firewall. The junction block will allow for future power taps up to about 250 amps combined, w/o crowding the battery post or compromising the starter cable connection to battery. You will need to drill an appropriately sized hole through the firewall and install either a feed-through junction block (http://www.delcity.net/store/Stud-Type-Junction-Block-!-Feed!Through-Panel-Mount/p_71704) or a firewall bushing (http://www.summitracing.com/parts/qcr-57-820/overview/). Mount the auxiliary fuse block under the dash near the feed-through and connect the 2-gauge cable. Run 8-gauge feed wires from the fuse block to the auxiliary sockets and ground the sockets directly to the cab sheetmetal. You can substitute manual or auto reset breakers into the fuse box. Of course the cables will need to be suitably routed, anchored and protected from piercing, pinching, impact and heat. Inside the cab, use GXL or GPT wire for a slight space advantage.
I know you don't want to drill any holes, but I think it is inevitable if you want a clean, organized and safe installation.
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What socket type is recommended? Engle, Merit, standard Cig., Anderson, other?
It really depends on what the many appliances, accessories and devices that are made for 12v homes/automobiles use for plugs. For a personal devices like spotlights and fridges I can put my own plug on that I think is best, but for things like cell-chargers or devices that belong to others I'll need some kind of socket that is universal/common.
Each "panel" behind the seat will be on a 40A circuit. The sockets on the panel will have that much power to share amongst themselves.
I'm thinking one standard Cig. and one Anderson per panel. The Cig. for most things, and the Anderson for high-power, sensitive or personal devices.
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As a reminder, regardless of what sockets you settle on, to safeguard from fire the circuit protection should be no greater than the rated capacity of the smallest capacity socket on the circuit. So, if you power one 20-amp and one 30-amp socket from a shared fuse/breaker, the fuse/breaker should not exceed 20 amps or you will risk serious overheating and possible ignition. Two 20-amp sockets can share one 20-amp fuse/breaker... 10-amp and 20-amp sockets on common circuit protection can share one 10-amp fuse/breaker... and so on. Wire safely.
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Yes, thank you for that reminder!
It does disappoint, but that's the problem with Cig. sockets, they just aren't the best socket type. And they are the socket type I am most likely to encounter accessories for I'm thinking.
I don't even know if it is safe to run one continuously at around 20A, if you can find one that high rated (Waytek claims 30A).
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It is probably safe to assume an 80% of maximum rating continuous duty cycle, unless otherwise stated in writing and UL or similar agency approved. Many fuses and breakers (not all) are rated at 80% continuous duty cycle.
You could always combine the 'cig' accessory sockets on a common 20-amp fuse/breaker and the remaining sockets on fuses/breakers appropriate to their rating(s).
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Anderson PowerPoles appear to be a very popular low and high power DC connector type, but there specs baffle me...
Am I to assume the 45A Powerpoles (http://www.powerwerx.com/anderson-powerpoles/powerpole-sets/45-amp-permanently-bonded-red-black-anderson-powerpole-sets.html) can only connect to a max size wire of 10ga.? How does that even work when the ampacity of 10ga. wire is 30A max? Let alone taking voltage drop into account: I was aiming toward 8-6ga wire.
IM
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Del City "Link" connectors and housings (http://www.delcity.net/store/Link-Connectors-&-Housings/p_112)
The 50-amp connectors (terminals) are available for 6-, 8-, & 10/12-gauge wire. Corresponding housings are available in black, gray and red that mate only with like colored housings. Link cable connectors work quite well for high current applications, but require heavy-duty crimpers because of the bulky size and wall thickness of the terminals. In addition, I recommend supplemental soldering (60/40 or 70/30 tin/lead, rosin flux) to seal the crimped cable-to-terminal joints against dust and oxidation.
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Yes, that might work. Thx.
Would you know of a good source of 50A breaker-switches? (Ex: here (http://greatlakesskipper.com/carling-50-amp-boat-on-off-rocker-circuit-breaker), here (https://www.bluesea.com/products/category/14/Circuit_Breakers)) I've decided to put one on each panel. It will be the protection and the ON/OFF switch for the sockets.
IM
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Carling Technologies A-Series rocker data sheet (http://www.carlingtech.com/sites/default/files/documents/A-Series_Details_%26_COS_030314.pdf#page=17) contains specifications relevant to the control you linked. Since you know the Carling part number (AF1-B0-34-650-531-I) perform a general search for Carling suppliers, then a specific search within the initial results. Blue Sea is probably manufactured by Carling.
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Just how much smaller is GXL than SXL?
I have a sample of 10ga THHN building wire and it is identical to my 12ga SXL wire in total size. And the THHN seems much harder to strip than the SXL, but the crosslink was recommended for automotive wiring.
Also, the largest GXL size available appears to be 8ga from WireBarn.
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Although rated for 600 volts, PVC insulated/nylon jacketed THHN hasn't the same abrasion resistance of cross-linked wire and may not possess as high a strand count for flexibility. In addition, THHN is generally intended to be routed inside protective conduit.
The difference in OD between SXL and GXL is nominal - perhaps a few percent. The 6-gauge GXL @ Terminal Supply Co (http://terminalsupplyco.com/Store/Default.aspx?CAT=GXL060100&PCAT=53437#Categories) maybe the heaviest gauge cross-linked polyethylene easily available.
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The difference in OD between SXL and GXL is nominal - perhaps a few percent. The 6-gauge GXL @ Terminal Supply Co (http://terminalsupplyco.com/Store/Default.aspx?CAT=GXL060100&PCAT=53437#Categories) maybe the heaviest gauge cross-linked polyethylene easily available.
Had any dealings with them before? I can't get a price without them wanting an account.
WAYTEK has 6 GA SGX Battery Cable, $55 for 100ft. S&H unknown.
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Setting up an account is a matter of providing your name, phone and email address. Rarely, I receive a phone message with specials of the month. Their site doesn't provide instant gratification, but I have never been dissatisfied with their products or prices, which I suppose is a limited endorsement of sorts since I am somewhat particular and specific in what I want.
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Back to the breakers..
Carling (http://www.carlingtech.com/hm-cb-a-series)
Pros Rocker (http://www.waveinn.com/nautical-fishing/pros-rocker/1319506/p?utm_source=google_products&utm_medium=merchant&id_producte=1722342&country=us&gclid=CNS2u8GjqcsCFQiqaQodUWQDxQ&gclsrc=aw.ds)
MasterVolt (http://www.invertersupply.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=3367&cPath=0_535&gclid=CKbIq7ijqcsCFQkwaQod_L8IXA)
They all look identical, but vary in price. Any of these have a good/bad rep?
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not to be mean or anything but i think a small generator would be a better idea
There have been plenty of times I could have used a quiet modest capacity generator.
Several companies also make generator/welder combos. I bet if you've needed a generator, you've needed a welder at least once, too.
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Using the cab or frame for the ground path rather than running dedicated return ground legs should be adequate for your purposes. But as stated in the prior post (especially if using the chassis as the ground path and high-current additions), the various OE ground jumpers should be upgraded.
- Battery-to-engine (4 gauge is typical, 2 gauge is recommended)
- Battery-to-right frame rail (10 gauge)
- Battery-to-radiator support (10 gauge)
- Engine-to-left frame rail (an optional ground) (10 gauge or 5/16" braided copper strap)
- Cab firewall-to-back of right cylinder head (10 gauge or 5/16" braided copper strap)
- Instrument panel and cluster grounds-to-cab sheetmetal next to the parking brake pedal assembly (various gauges ranging 18 to 16 gauge)
You wouldn't happen to know how much resistance the frame rails have would you? They are steel and not copper but there's more area. (The specific resistance of copper is 10.37, I think steel is around 10+ times that)
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You wouldn't happen to know how much resistance the frame rails have would you? They are steel and not copper but there's more area. (The specific resistance of copper is 10.37, I think steel is around 10+ times that)
You are way overthinking this. Resistivity is defined as the actual resistance of a uniform material, times the cross-sectional area of that material, divided by its length. Its units are ohm-meters.
Steel has ~40 times the resistivity of copper. In contrast, the resistivity of aluminum isn't quite double that of copper. So what? The significant limiting factors to current flow through the cabling are whether wire gauge is properly specified for the current demand and that the area of contact between the metals is adequate. That, in part, is why high current circuits employ connections with high contact area terminals. Moderate- and low-current circuits are less demanding (more forgiving) on the terminals used.
The cross-sectional area of a steel frame is huge in comparison to the cross-section of the copper cabling typically used in vehicles. So the solution to your concern is selecting cable that will result in no more than about 1.5% voltage loss across the run for continuous current circuits, and 2 - 3% loss across intermittent use circuits.
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I think you repeated what I said.
Np. I've got it calculated now.
Thanks much.
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CAT temperature and drilling into the frame
350 MCM cable in a 1" wire loom (poly or nylon would match the factory wiring, but I can go for the asbestos if need be) will be my "+" run from the AUX Batt to a junction under the center of the truck. This junction can feed the cab interior behind the seat, and the front of the truck bed. My idea is to shape a wooden platform directly above the center driveshaft bearing (pic1) and place a junction block in that.
How hot does the CAT get and what's the rule about running wiring (in loom) within a an inch or two of it?
I don't know if I can run a 1" loom alongside the factory wiring loom, there may not be room. Factory loom is on the top of the outside of the left frame rail above the gas tank.
I don't like to drill, and I don't want to compromise the frame in any way. Any rules/pointer for making small holes in the frame for mounting?
For the wire runs going from the center junction to the cab corner hole under the cab I made some "L" shaped pieces out of sheet-metal and stuck them on with 3M mounting tape, the loom clamp attaches to these (pic2).
Pic3 is CAT.
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350 MCM cable in a 1" wire loom (poly or nylon would match the factory wiring, but I can go for the asbestos if need be) will be my "+" run from the AUX Batt to a junction under the center of the truck
350,000 cmils is between 4/0 and 5/0 cable. Even welding cable that size will likely be fairly stiff and a challenge to route. What's your criteria for specifying cable that heavy? Junction block studs for cable that heavy will need to be at least 1/2" diameter.
How hot does the CAT get and what's the rule about running wiring (in loom) within a an inch or two of it?
I don't know if I can run a 1" loom alongside the factory wiring loom, there may not be room. Factory loom is on the top of the outside of the left frame rail above the gas tank.
±1,200° F at full operating temperature...
Allow plenty of space for air circulation between a catalytic converter and any electrical power cable, preferably install a heat shield between them. Arbitrarily, allow >12" between the cat and cable loomed in reflective double wall fiberglass. Run the cable outside the frame to insulate from exhaust heat where necessary, if possible, but near the top of the frame rail to help protect from road hazards.
I don't like to drill, and I don't want to compromise the frame in any way. Any rules/pointer for making small holes in the frame for mounting?
For the wire runs going from the center junction to the cab corner hole under the cab I made some "L" shaped pieces out of sheet-metal and stuck them on with 3M mounting tape, the loom clamp attaches to these (pic2).
You can drill the frame face to mount 1/4" Adelle clamps or share the existing holes used to secure the factory loom. Do not drill the frame flanges.
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350,000 cmils is between 4/0 and 5/0 cable. Even welding cable that size will likely be fairly stiff and a challenge to route. What's your criteria for specifying cable that heavy? Junction block studs for cable that heavy will need to be at least 1/2" diameter.
350 kcmil may be excessive. A 1-1.5KW inverter and three 50A DC accesory sockets attached to the end of the main artery (AUX to Junction, 15ft). The heaviest thing I imagine having to use briefly would be a 1KW micowave. 4/0awg or 250kcmil should be fine, better safe than sorry. Surge current needs to be considered too.
Run the cable outside the frame to insulate from exhaust heat where necessary, if possible, but near the top of the frame rail to help protect from road hazards..
..or share the existing holes used to secure the factory loom.
That would be ideal, if there's room.
Thanks.
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The following discussion isn't intended to invalidate anything that you have already accomplished, rather help you engineer a design that is both high performance and cost effective. Using cable as heavy as you are proposing (250 - 350 MCM), the surge current in a low voltage environment is immaterial due to its short duration, measured in milliseconds. The cable can easily dissipate the negligible amount of virtually instantaneous flash heating.
A 1,500-watt inverter will draw a maximum of ~110 amps for only a couple of minutes before tripping its internal breaker. It will deliver 1,000 watts for considerably longer at ~75 amps of draw. Similarly, the 50-amp accessory sockets, individually protected, will deliver 100% (50 amps apiece) of their individual circuit protection, momentarily, before tripping, versus ~80% (40 amps apiece) continuously, without tripping. That equates to 150 amps of momentary current flow, versus ~120 amps of continuous current flow. So, three 50-amp sockets, plus the 1.5 kW inverter, collectively operating at maximum draw would be ~260 amps of current flowing through the supply cable lasting for a maximum of under two minutes, versus a continuous current flow of up to ~195 amps. Of course, voltage loss across the supply cable generates heat in the cable, which is the major concern. And, the amount of heat generated is dependent on the cross-sectional area of the cable.
Now, realistically, how much total combined current do you actually anticipate drawing at any given time through the supply cable? A constant 195 amps? What is the likelihood that you will be supplying maximum current through all four appliances at the same time? For how long? Next, how much voltage loss across the supply cable is tolerable to the appliances you will be powering? Bear in mind that a starter cable while cranking an engine, commonly consumes 3%, but can consume as much as 5% of the supply voltage and yet the starter still functions. Use these two criteria along with the length of the cable run to arrive at a workable specification for supply cable cross-sectional area. I'll leave it to you to do the math and post the outcome, assuming you haven't already pondered this exact scenario.
Edit: corrected arithmetic and restated for clarity