73-87chevytrucks.com
73-87 Chevy _ GMC Trucks => Engine/Drivetrain => Topic started by: theaddictedchef on October 22, 2014, 08:33:07 am
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Hello everyone......after some careful consideration, I decided to plunge. First, I'll tell you that I've got pictures of my project and I'll post all pics as soon as I finish. Here's what I did -
350 crate engine, passenger/driver side fuel tanks and sending units, radiator, distributor, fuel pump, alternator, water pump, and misc stuff, but you get the idea. Many of the items were lifetime warranty things from OReillys and it was a straight swap. Anyway, I'm 70% done and I don't like my headers and don't know which direction to go. I can tell you that I HATE loosening headers to change freakin spark plugs....that part I'm sure of.
So.....I've got an ad on Craigslist to trade my headers and exhaust for an original exhaust manifold set and pipes. Is this a good idea? Any suggestions? Thoughts? I'm on a budget like everyone else but I also want to do it right.
Side note - I got my Painless Chasis Harness (part #10205) and right now they have a deal where you get the power braid kit ($245) for free. Shipping also was free, and I should hope so for $661. Anyway, thought I'd throw that out there if you are looking for a wiring harness. I'm happy I went with Painless and the support there was incredible.
Back to the original question - any thoughts on stock exhaust would be appreciated.
Thanks guys!
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Probably cost you 40 horsepower compared to long-tube headers.
Which headers are on it?
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Long tube headers but I'm not sure what brand. They were on there when I got the truck and they are a real pain. Any way I can avoid losing hp and still go to stock exhaust?
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You should figure out which headers they are, and then seek recommendations for a better choice. Sometimes people use the wrong product to save a couple bucks. They end up makign it work, kinda, but create real problems. It may not be a symptom of long-tube headers per se, but just the ones that are on there.
You didn't say, but if that's a K truck, Hooker 2453 is the exact fit. Mine are no problem.
Post a picture of what is on there, both sides, and I can at least tell you if it's the Hooker product.
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I'm not sure how the pictures will load - the pictures in the shadow with the red tool tray are the passenger side. (http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/10/22/385156ab31172b8f2546c262a8269c18.jpg)(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/10/22/17321ab018c424f992c18dfece6b7112.jpg)(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/10/22/f826f9669bf46a6ae98e4682b8b71692.jpg)(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/10/22/345ab940590fbfe57b83bf7d2523b912.jpg)
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Yeah, I'm not sure whose those are. Don't see an exact match at Summit.
The Hooker 2453 are perfect for the K trucks. And you don't need to loosen them to remove spark plugs. That's nuts.
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Yeah....these suck. Thank you for the effort.
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De nada.
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I use a Snap-On 5/8" low profile socket (http://store.snapon.com/Hand-Sockets-Socket-Spark-Plug-Low-Profile-5-8-6-point-5-8-external-hex-P644223.aspx) that works famously on restricted access plugs. Summit Racing also has a couple of socket brands (Trick Flow (http://www.summitracing.com/parts/tfs-90500/overview/) & SLP Performance (http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sle-30102/overview/)) that should fit the bill. Sometimes, dimpling a header tube will create enough room to access the plugs. Sometimes, a shorty plug is in order. Sometimes, both.
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Thanks bd