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73-87 Chevy _ GMC Trucks => 73-87 Chevy & GMC Trucks => Topic started by: RustyChevrolet on October 28, 2014, 04:18:24 pm
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I have a 1980 K10 that was sitting in the barn for 10 years. It is rusty and dirty but it is beautiful. It was my Grandpa's truck and was running when he parked it 10 years ago. I bought a new battery and removed the old starter. I had the solenoid rebuilt and then reinstalled it. I cleaned up all the connections to the battery and all three wires going to the solenoid. I still can not not get it to crank, not even a click, no sound. The headlights work, the interior lights work but no radio, no wipers (I don't hear the blower for the heat come on either). I get full power at the battery when the key is turned (12.5v) and I get (12v) at the solenoid even with the key turned. The manual says that would indicated an open solenoid since there is not a voltage drop at the solenoid when the key is turned, however, I feel pretty confident the solenoid is good since it has just been rebuilt.
Could it be that the ignition key cylinder is bad? Or ignition switch? I just cant believe it is the solenoid and the lack of radio power (given it could have not worked when he parked it) makes me think it is the ignition key cylinder.
Other background, I have power at the fuse panel but it seems to be lower volts. I have also check every fusible link that I can find (3) and gave all of them a firm tug to make sure they are strong. I also had zero mice evidence, not even one turd, not nests, the barn has a healthy barn cat population apparently.
Thanks!
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Double check your fusible links with a test light. Post pics
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If it's been sitting, the engine is probably stuck. Grab hold of the belts on either side of the crankshaft and try to turn the engine a little. If you can't move it that way, and there's enough room, put a pipe wrench on the crankshaft pulley from underneath and move the engine that way. I bet it'll crank then.
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I will double check the fusible links tomorrow with a test light.
I forgot to mention I was worried about the motor being seized so i did pull the spark plugs and roll the engine over manually with a big breaker bar. It rolled over pretty easily and I made sure to give it a good couple turns.
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Just ensure they are good and properly connected. Make sure you are connected to the B+ terminal not the M+ terminal for your cables and fusible links. The purple wire goes to the S terminal not the R terminal
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VileZambonie, thanks much I just doubled checked them. They are. However, I have three wires going to the B+ terminal and one to the S terminal. Is that correct?
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I had the wires on my solenoid crossed for weeks before I discovered what I'd done. I had to jump it across the poles on the solenoid to get it to crank until I had time to really dig into it.
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VileZambonie, thanks much I just doubled checked them. They are. However, I have three wires going to the B+ terminal and one to the S terminal. Is that correct?
That is correct. Now verify you have B+ after the fusible links and at the junction block on the firewall. Is the truck an automatic? If you put a test light to the wire on the S terminal while in park and have an assistant crank the engine, does the test light illuminate?
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So I rechecked every fusible link. The link by the bulkhead gave me mixed results ( it would only light when I wiggled the wire) and after probing around I found the fusible link was pretty corroded (See picture). I cleaned it up and I thought for sure this would be my fix. However. It still would not crank, but I do get a solid reading with the test light now. So now that every fusible tested out I tried to follow power into the cab. Which brought me to this wire underneath the steering column. Which I believe runs from the S terminal on the solenoid. I though I should have power here but it gave me a negative reading. (I.e. test light did not light). Anyone know if I should have power here without the key being turned? (http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/11/01/ecf605b15df844dbe45a3626574ea0d9.jpg)(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/11/01/460bebe0cff136a40bbfbd4879ff1538.jpg)
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VileZambonie,
I did not get a chance to try this yet as I do not have an assistant at the house until tomorrow. If this doesn't light what would it indicate?
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It would indicate that you are receiving the signal to crank the engine however you need to address that fusible link. http://forum.73-87chevytrucks.com/smforum/index.php?topic=11972.0
Trace the wires running down the back of the engine block. They tend to arc out on the back of the engine and down by the bellhousing near the starter. It would be a good idea to just replace that entire length of wire, and replace the fusible links while you are at it.
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VileZambonie,
Thanks a ton for your help. Could not have gotten this far without it. I did check the purple wire from the S terminal while someone cranked the engine and it did not illuminate. I still can read 12 v into and out of all three fusible links but I am going to pick up replacement fusible links sometime this week and replace them next weekend. I did check behind the engine but they all seem to be covered by black plastic conduit and everything by the starter looked covered as well. I guess I'll fix the fusible links first and then if need be rip into the conduit.
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Check at the junction block too on the firewall
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So I have replaced the two fusible links and the starter. They looked pretty rough but I still did not get the engine to crank afterwards. My next step is to replace the fusible link at the junction block like you suggested, however I would like to replace the metal strip since its connected to the fusible link and looks in rough shape. However, I have not been able to find the part. Any chance you know what this is called? The plastic piece and or the metal strip(fuse I am assuming). Thanks in advance. (http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/11/05/90f8135dfbee46b893d466c14da9e8e0.jpg)
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take a picture of the starter and wires to it
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just an idea here but seems to me that your issue is on the column than under the hood, I would check out the neutral safety switch at the base of the column, its what that purple wire that goes to the s terminal on your starter is connected to, try putting a test light on that purple wire at the base of the steering column and turning the key at the same time if it does not illuminate then your NSS needs attention, also have you tried moving your gear selector to different positions while trying to crank it
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it should be with the ignition switch since its not powering the radio or wipers since they only get power with "key on" or acc either its not getting power ot its not sending it out. if i understand it right
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After you repair your fusible links, check your connection at the ignition switch. Also can you feel the appropriate modes of operation when actuating the ignition lock cylinder? Does it spring back from the crank position and feel tight?
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I did try cranking it after smashing it into park as well as neutral. I also bought a new ignition switch since it was only $13, even though I could hear it actuating. Unfortunately after installing the new one it still will not crank. I still have my last fusible link to install because it runs into the junction box I have pictured a few posts ago and can not find a replacement part. I will fabricate one tomorrow. I included the picture of the starter wiring as asked. Narrowing it down I suppose. (http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/11/08/a6e20101a84bf632618fbf90f1e6ea57.jpg)
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Is that wire touching your exhaust?
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where do those two wire run to? i cant remember where or how many wires i have on my starter, cause it never has giving me a problem.
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Finally have got enough warm weather and time to work again. I still do not have power to S terminal on starter solenoid or to purple wire running into the cab. All fusible links have been replaced and read 12.4v just like the battery. Ignition switch has been replaced , I feel like all that can be left is cylinder key lock. Is that even an option?
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Irish_Alley
one runs to a black junction on the firewall(pictured a few posts back) where it diverges three ways(alternator, into the cab and to a box on the AC unit. The other runs to the alternator.
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Still not running? Move that wire touching the exhaust manifold before you do anything else. Use a test light to check the connection at the park neutral switch if everything else is working. All fusible links are in tact, radio, interior lights etc all working, then with it in Park disconnect the P/N switch and jump it. See if it starts if it does, replace the P/N switch.
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Nope not yet. Radio, wipers and heat all still do not work. But interior and headlights work. Still no power at P/N switch. I did jump it and engaged the starter as you suggested. So I guess it is off to get a P/N switch.