73-87chevytrucks.com
73-87 Chevy _ GMC Trucks => 73-87 Chevy & GMC Trucks => Topic started by: Brocksdad1 on November 16, 2014, 12:16:45 PM
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Ok fellas
New thread, here is the history of the truck,
I bought it about 2 weeks ago. Truck seemed to run good but it smoked on start up and acceleration. After little under 200 miles after owning the truck I checked the oil and it had leaked and burned nearly 2.quarts.
Now the PO said it was a replacement 350 out of a car.
It eventually started to run really rough and not start after warm. Finally started valve train noise and some bottom end noise.
I decided to pull the heads at least.
I had to dig the end two inside head bolts out of the crud build up. Several valves looked like they are hanging a bit.
Well come to find out it's a 305. And is toasted.
So I started doing research on 350 4bolts, and looking for vortec heads.
I went to a salvage yard that I have felt with for 20 years that specializes in older cars and muscle motors.
They had a 89 vet that ran and drove. I drove it and played with it for around 4 hours. No smoke, started easy, and very complete.
I struck a deal for the entire engine, harness, comp, accessories, everything for 1500 cash pulled.
I thought it was comparable money, because I was going to be on a carburated 4bolt with decent heads at least that. And not have the reliability, ease of start in cold weather, or fuel mileage as the Vet TPI.
So I'm starting this thread as a complete retrofit from a 305 gen1 to a Vet TPI 350.
I have found one website called Chevythunder that has a wealth of information about the TPI and doing retrofits. But it's for a 70's camaro. But great information none the less.
I hope to help people with future installs with this thread. So any info you can share on the topic is greatly appreciated.
Here are a few pics of the truck and of the gunked up head off the 305.
And one of the donor TPI.
(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/11/16/6c37a9f61895b14cc6c930bb3da3163c.jpg)(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/11/16/55c67da57cb7798dbdf461bc165e78e6.jpg)(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/11/16/acffc93e725754a2a39536c49dae8181.jpg)(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/11/16/a39ba5ab78033371e1a9a28e83dfd270.jpg)(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/11/16/ed767b03c4988252d9856dfd03775a8d.jpg)(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/11/16/8272e094ae09088a2240aeaf05049d01.jpg)(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/11/16/58ff5167930faedc1398ba57e1ea6a6e.jpg)(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/11/16/9ad0b09d5813233e1129feda2081ada0.jpg)
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I see you took the vette engine. Cool. Check out a place online called Howell Engine Developments. They have all kinda of cool stuff for the TPI system including parts. You would probably learn some more and find some things you will like or would like to have. I got an entire fuel injection swap kit from them directly and I tell you what it is amazing and I love it.
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Yea Im super pumped about getting it this week. I spent the last two days cleaning my garage of a decade of collected junk. Now I have room for my truck. Actually has given me hope for my boat now. I have a 17 tracker that the power head went out on. I have a new power head but my shop has been so cluttered I haven't wanted to work on it.
Anyway the guy is supposed to have it to me by Wednesday. But we ate getting 3-6 inches of snow tonight and tomorrow so Im not sure it will happen.
My mother has been a GM service advisor for 20yrs. And she said that the have paper issues of service manuals for the vets and trucks in these years that I can have. She is going to look into them this week.
Bryce
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Cool. I work in a Chevy service department too. Make sure you take pics and keep us updated.
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Here are just a few more general pics of the truck. Cab,interior, engine compartment
As you can see it needs cleaning really bad and some new interior parts. (http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/11/16/a6a7ea70f15fe78b771f8c7c3e27f6d8.jpg)(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/11/16/eabbcf89e1af5f14f20b3df7ef3e2b6b.jpg)(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/11/16/b43c68ca4f7f728de93ac8238db501f6.jpg)(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/11/16/f20e10ff05bb1f5df1fb3fe3855f0960.jpg)(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/11/16/46a6e8e64dc3dfb0d2c9a0d037be21b9.jpg)(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/11/16/2684b04b3974a786123ecf3aac6f9a3a.jpg)(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/11/16/6af0fca948a283b8b3198e7ebcc6400a.jpg)(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/11/16/9a1e2dbf7ea38c580a021cc176766fd2.jpg)(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/11/16/d09c3d2093bdefc552997d05ccd0fdba.jpg)
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You know I just thought of something. What transmissions do your truck and the vette have? If truck is stick and vette is auto your ok or both are stick your ok. If truck is auto and vette is stick or both are auto then you got some extras do deal with.
No matter what trans each vehicle has there are gonna be parts needed, such as possibly a torque converter or clutches or what not. Things to think about but not my point haha.
Auto transmissions of that period have a lock up torque converter that require some elcetrical info to be going to and from the transmission. Depending on the setup for the transmission and or engine to fully benefit you, there maybe be some electrical that needs to be added and or removed. Earlier I mentioned Howell Engine Developments, they could possible make the necessary additions or deletions to the system that you need.
My TBI kit I got, I ordered with some extra features. I had them add the needed wiring and programing in the ECM for air conditioning, speed sensor signal, lock up torque converter, and I got one of their speed sensors for the 89 muscled up 700R4 I put behind the engine. Along with the standard ALDL connector for diagnostics and a Check Engine light. You may find yourself needing some of these things, they could probably create a PROM chip for your new ECM that would add or delete curtain features.
So explain what all extras your truck and the vette both have, transmissions, ac, cruise control? With that we can figure what your gonna need.
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The truck is 700r4, has power brakes, power steering, and A/c
The vet is automatic with all the same attributes.
I'm staying with serpentine belt setup,
And I and receiving all the accessories on the car. Aswell as the computer,and OBD port.
If it's wiring that's needed that's cool. Extra parts is gonna suck.
I already have to buy a electronic fuel pump. And a few other things. I hope I don't need a new comp. I would think it would work coming with a running engine.
Isn't the trans lockup controlled by vacuum or am I wrong. I'm not much up on the 700
Thanks for all the help. I've got that company saved in y bookmark on my tablet. I'll call them tomorrow with my transplant info and see what they have to say.
Bryce
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What year is the truck and vette info?
Read this first then explore the site, especially the TPI section.
https://howellefi.com/gm-tpi-products.html
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The truck is 83 and the Vet is 89.
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So, luckily for you, this will be relatively easy because both vehicles have 700R4's. Both also have lock up torque converter, however, your truck uses a mechanical driven speedometer and the vette is electronic. Not really a big deal because that can be fixed with a few cheap parts. BUT, the early 700's where not the best transmissions in the world, the later versions like what's in the vette are much better, that's actually what year my 700 is, 89.
If the car is running and driving I would suggest highly considering getting the transmission also, this will have the facilitate that you make sure the lock up, and shifting of transmission is done properly. The 700 uses what's called a throttle valve cable to input fluid pressure to make shifting and operation decisions, if it's setup wrong then it can damage the transmission.
If you got both engine and trans from the vette, you would have just about everything you need for the system to work properly. For speed sensor signal and speedometer operation, you can pull the speedo gears out of the trans on the truck and remove the reluctor wheel on the vette trans and install speedo gears on the vette trans, then purchase a a speed sensor signal converter from howell, (this is what I did), that should plug directly into the factory harness for the speed sensor.
The serpentine setup is also a lot better than 3 belts by a country mile, I also did this but from a 95 350 with ac and power steering. Also, the vette trans as a few internal parts that are better than a standard 700 because it's for a "performance vehicle". Parts such as a standard servo and corvette servo, (mine has the vette servo). Removing the speedo gears and stuff on both trans is very easy as they are at the back under the tail shaft housing and that's only got 4 bolts holding it on.
And I just realized that the truck is 4 wheel drive so your gonna have to pull the tail shaft off anyway to mate the new 700 to the transfer case, in which case you can use the speed sensor adapter right on the transfer case because on 4x4 trucks, the speedo cable is driven inside the transfer case not the transmission. I'm hoping another member will chime in on this because I'm not sure what year 700's have the same or different tailshafts. My truck is 2 wheel drive and the slip yoke from my old 350 trans fit perfectly on the output shaft of the 700. So I think it should be a direct swap.
This project sounds like alot but it's really just making sure that if your gonna do it do it right and you should never have a problem and it should work great, I'm very pleased with the end result of my swap that's for sure.
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Also, don't forget the oxygen sensor(s), needed to maintain proper air fuel ratio and the electric fans on the vette, controlled by the ECM for proper cooling and ac use. If you get the fans too then you don't gotta mess around with making all that work, just mount fans to your radiator, plug in and be done. You might be able to pull the vette engine and trans out as one unit and drop them in your truck as one unit, just pull the radiator out of your truck and pull the accessories of the front of the motor so you have a little extra room to work with. Might help to have a buddy or 2 there also to help with instalation and lining up motor mounts and stabing the trans to transfer case.
Heck, if your so inclined, yank the whole core support off and you can load the motor in the truck like a shell into a shotgun, straight in the front. As opposed to going up and over the core support at extreme angles and then trying to swing it down and into position.
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I've looked into the VSS from summit.
The trans in the Vet is leaking out of the pump. I'm glad that every thing is kinda falling in place.
My only other concern is the fuel. Should I go frame mount pump or will the 87 in tank for a k10 work. And if so are the tanks the same 83-87.
I do need to change the Speedo gear for the speedometer. It's off by 7-8 mph.
I have 4:11 gears witch I hate. I drive to Barkley lake often and would like a better highway gear for more speed. It only liked about 65-70 when I drove it home.
So Im also on the hunt for a complete set of axles.
Another thing is, do I need electric fan or can I bolt a regular fan to this engine.
I also found Jagsthatrun. They have parts to make your own cold air.
Is there any aftermarket kit that comes close to working that I could modify.
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On the serpentine setup it looks like the AC lines will line right up. The ac pump is on the pass side of the car. And line ends are the same. So all I will need is a new drier.
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One thing you have to deal with is the VATS (vehicle anti theft system) on the vette.
Its the little black resistor on the ignition key.
You can gave a new chip burned to eliminate it.
Just one more thing to think about.
I'm a huge TPI fan.
Looking forward to reading about your swap.
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The best setup would be the 87 tank and sending unit with a TPI pump instead of the TBI pump. I have an inline pump for 3 years on my 84 with no issues sucking fuel thru the stock sending unit.
You can use just about any electric fan that covers most of the radiator. I have a Taurus fan and it works great. The wire in the harness is only a trigger from the computer. So you need to supply the relays, power, ground etc..
Vss that the speedo cable hooks to available at Jags that run, howell, or TPIParts.com
Good luck with you swap!
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On the tanks.
I've been looking around and seems they are the same 89-87 is that correct.
And all I would need to do it put in the sending unit for a 87.
Then run an electric pump.
As for fans I think the Taurus fan is one of the best junkyard fans. I was into rock crawlers for years and they move a ton of air for 10.00.
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I have never messed with any other fans other than GM vehicles but I've heard Taurus fans work pretty good. I would opt for the vette vans tho, the relays and wiring and such needed are all built into the harness in and around the vette engine bay, pulling power from the appropriate places, you wouldn't have to make anything, just detach it all from car and reinstall on truck.
As Rich84 said, I believe howell, summit, have TPI fuel pumps. The one that came with my TBI kit supplied ample pressure and the regulator in the TBI gets it down to where it needs to be for TBI. Might be the same pump for there TPI kits also. That would make things easy now wouldn't it?
As for the leak on vette trans, I'd say reseal it, drain fluid, new filter and fluid, new pan gasket and input/output seals, same with filter and oil in engine and new coolant and any seals on engine that you opt to replace while it's out and should be good to go.
I can't say enough make sure you get everything from the donor car as you can, fans, wiring, sensors, brackets, etc, trans and throttle cables, even if you think you have one from the truck already. Once you take all the parts and the car is gone, if you have a question or need to adapt something, having physical parts to test fit and work with is a heck of a lot easier and less stressful than trying to guess or search the web for a possible answer. Trust me, been there, done that.
I'd rather have some extra parts and an easy install than just enough and no hair cuz it's all pulled out.
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Im not sure that its as easy as just bolting on the transfer case on that trans. I think the output shaft has to be changed.
PLus Im running out of cash fast.
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Running out of cash is never good but you would be surprised what will bolt directly in and what wont. Sometimes you can take a part from one vehicle and a part from another and to make them work together use a part from a third vehicle.
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I'll Google it. But I think major changes apply.
I know a ton about modifying early Broncos with other vehicles lol
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Good luck and let us know what you find.
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Well I found out that the trans has to be torn down and modified with different tailshaft.
If I can get it free or next to it I'll pick it up.
I called about my engine and it's not out yet because of the snow. It's supposed to be out tomorrow. I hope
I sold my 94.z71 today so I am going to borrow my grandfather mini van until the truck is done.
I hope I get everything going soon.
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Cool cool. Getting it for for cheap would be good. Also, tearing it down to swap tail shafts is also good. You will get the chance to double check the internals, fix anything that looks like it might be an issue. Also let's you throw some new gaskets in, including the leaking pump, new filter and fluid.
I wouldn't worry to much about performance upgrades as long as you leave the engine stock, if you decide to upgrade the engine later and if you do then upgrade the trans then.
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As of now the only hitch I'm finding is fuel delivery.
Is it possible to use a 87 sending unit along with a high pressure in tank switched out from the lower pressure tbi pump.
The fittings are concerning me a little bit on the sending unit of the 87.
Only thing I can think is to buy a external hp pump and regulator. And use threaded style fittings.
Has anyone put a TBI in these trucks on here that can help me on this.
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The later years of these trucks came with TBI, do you mean TPI? 1987 should be TBI stock.
I would think the easiest thing to do might be to use a sensing unit for a carb engine, say 77, 78, 79 or so, as long as it has the same amount of ports on top. Then just get an external TPI pump from howell or summit or whatever. That's what mine is. I didn't even drop the tank, just put fuel injection lines onto the sending unit, connected to external TBI pump from the kit and bolted to inside frame rail. Works perfectly fine.
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Yea I meant TBI.
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Like Ltz C20 said, I would run an external fuel pump.
Have you looked into the VATS system I mentioned earlier?
What about you exhaust system? If your running headers you will need to weld in a bung for the O2 sensor.
For your air intake you have you have to deal with mounting the mass airflow sensor. The ductwork from an 1988 trans am / formula TPI car will locate the air filter box to the drivers side radiator support (it looks almost factory) using all GM parts.
I'm just trying to think of the small details so you can plan ahead.
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As far as the fuel lines/sending unit, my TPI system uses a 3 port sending unit (feed, return, & vent).
My truck has a 40 gallon suburban tank mounted under the bed and uses an external fuel pump. There is rubber fuel injection line running from the tank to the pump. The pump is mounted to the frame rail near the tank. From the pump the fuel runs into a stock TBI fuel filter set up mounted with the bracket for a 87-91 tbi blazer.
From the fuel filter steel lines run along the frame to the front of the truck where they attach to the factory TPI braided fuel line. The return line is run the same way.
Just make sure to use rubber lines & hose clamps rated for fuel injection.
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Fitz pretty much covered it. Don't worry, fuel injection rubber hose is not expense, just a different type than carb hose.
I'm sure there's a couple ways you could mount a MAF sensor, including the trans am setup. Welding a bung on the exhuast is not hard either or buy a header with bugs already. But I just welded mine to the exhuast pipe right behind the header collector/exhuast pipe joint. I didn't want to ruin my nice ceramic coated headers by drilling and welding to them.
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The stock TPI pump will mount directly to the 87 sending unit just like the TBI pump did. 87 tank has baffles to keep the sending unit from starving for gas when below a 1/4 tank. This is the "best" set up.
The easiest setup is an externally mounted pump as close to the fuel tank and below if possible. Use the existing steel lines and replace all rubber with FI hose.
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Thanks Rich
I work for a company that has all the tools for crimping ends on hoses. Ill buy the correct fittings and hose along with a electric frame mount pump from summit or my local speed shop. Then ill make all the hoses the right way. Along with return hoses.
As Im going All this ill be taking pictures and doing a step by step install. And ill also list part numbers
Im looking forward to the install I just wish it was in warmer weather.
Bryce
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Good. Now get to it, we expect massive burn outs by Saturday night lol.
Hey Rich84, side note here. You said the 87 tank has baffles, is the 87 tank steel or plastic? Could I swap my steel tank for a baffled one? I'm trying to eliminate the gauge floating around on acceleration and deceleration and turning once it drops below 1/2 tank. Would that be a direct swap? How many gallons is the 87 tank. I'd like to stay with 20 or maybe a few more.
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I'll be on it as soon as my engine is in my possession.
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No problem. Just givin u a hard time.
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Oh yea. I can't wait. The guys were supposed to have it to me today but no dice. Hopefully tomorrow. If so there will be pics!!
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Do you plan to run the stock chip in the ecm?
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Yes
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the beginning of this year i got a tcu from a guy in VA he had a crew cab that was dropped and had a tpi (i think, its been a while but i know he pulled it out of a car). in the morning if i can remember ill see if i still have his info on my phone. maybe i can talk him into joining
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Do you plan to run the stock chip in the ecm?
Yes
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Have you researched the VATS system?
I don't want to beat a dead horse but Your truck will not run until you eliminate the VATS system.
One way to do this is to have a new chip burned for the ecm with the vats turned off.
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What about using a resistor.
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A resistor will work if you know the value of the resistor on the key.
Any chance the junkyard will give you then ignition key?
If not, maybe you can just measure they value of it.
I'm looking forward to watching this build.
Did you get the motor yet?
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Not yet but I think I can get the key.
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I'll be watching this build too and here for questions if needed.
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Good. Now get to it, we expect massive burn outs by Saturday night lol.
Hey Rich84, side note here. You said the 87 tank has baffles, is the 87 tank steel or plastic? Could I swap my steel tank for a baffled one? I'm trying to eliminate the gauge floating around on acceleration and deceleration and turning once it drops below 1/2 tank. Would that be a direct swap? How many gallons is the 87 tank. I'd like to stay with 20 or maybe a few more.
Hate to have to tell ya this. It the tank is steel and baffled but the floating issue still remains. I replaced my right saddle tank's sending unit and pump but when breaking or accelerating level still floats.
Brock.. The 87 sending unit should be an easy swap and an in tank pump that will supply the higher tpi pressure is a direct for. Delphi also offer an adjustable length sending unit so if the tank is deeper. Or shallow the pump can still stay submerged. The best part is you got a return built into the a being unit so all you'll have to do is route a return line. Only real issue is the connections. If you checks out Capt's build he list the parts you can use to adapt the lines to something that wasn't designed to only see 17 psiof fuel pressure. The 87 sending unit has rubber linthat connect the sending units to the hard lines that feed the engine.
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Ok cool. Do you have a link to the build thread?
I was supposed to pick up the engine today but it's not ready. I think I'll have it this time tomorrow.
If the in-tank is best. I'll go that route. Gonna price them tommorow. Just need to decide what parts to get.
I'm thinking
87. 20 gal driver side tank.
87 TBI sending unit
89. TPI pump.
I'm pretty good at figuring out ways to do things, but I'm all for doing what someone else has already tried and proved good. So I'd like to see Capts thread.
I'm curious about exhaust. I have factory manifolds, now I'm a good welder, and my exhaust is new. So should I use the factory manifolds and welder in a bung for the 02? Or would it be better if I went to shortly headers? I don't care about HP gains that headers produce, because it is not that much and this is a UN-molested engine. For now. Lol.
I'm getting the Vet fan and harness so I'm covered there. Also getting the key, so hopefully I can do away with VATS by way of resistor.
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Well if welding is easy for you Earls has fittings that you would remove the tube on the sending unit, apply part of the fitting and it adapts to AN style fittings. I will look for the link but I'm sure at some point he will chime in since he kinda owns the site and store its based off of. If you got to the members ride section and look for 1987 R10 driver you will find a what you are looking for. Granted he did a 6.0l swap and twin trubos but if his fuel system is handling that it will surely handle a stock tpi unit.
Oh and in these huge air plows I would never under estimate the extra torque a set of long tubes can do for that engine. I put the O2 sensor in the collector. A simple step down bit makes easy work of that. also welding cast always sucks!!
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I read over the part about fuel in capts thread. But cant really tell what he is doing.
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Well that's kinda of a bummer to hear Froto, I'll wait to see what Rich84 or others say. Brocksdad I'm glad you got the fan system and vats key. The vats system kinda sucks so it's better we just get rid of it.
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Well I went to get the engine today and they had just pulled the hood off!!!!!!
So I kinda lost it for a minute. Then said. Tell you what, I'll come get the car and bring it back less the stuff I need. When I get around to it.
They agreed and I went home and got the trailer.
So with the help of two friends it's out! Without cutting anything!
This is after I had to go into work this morning and pull a hyd pump off a cx460. Push the truck out of the garage and unload the Vet into the garage. And I guarantee I'm not paying the full 1500.00
So here ya go for some pics
(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/11/22/4db1c1280ed7f6bd0adb572eaff45d6d.jpg)(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/11/22/9dac6a79afa6a31171096906e1839d45.jpg)(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/11/22/2e712f6f7264090143e9c3e7cd11f497.jpg)(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/11/22/6b919a66b092576d3b34c723712a88ca.jpg)(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/11/22/9a61fddf86c05075b0c487f1adda0f6b.jpg)(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/11/22/a4973a78a202ee297d493e41ca6490e3.jpg)
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Nice!
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So today I'm pulling the computer and the rest of the wiring.
I wish the steering column would work.
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Nice job. I think your better off pulling the motor yourself.
Its more work for you, but this way you know that nobody hacked the wiring harness on you.
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This is also correct. ^^
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Well I thi k I have to by headers because of the angle plug style aluminum heads.
Anyone have a suggestion?
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Try calling summit or jegs, speak to a sales associate or technical assistance person. Tell them what engine you have and what it's going in.
It's not really that you need to match headers to the corvette engine, it's matching headers to that specific cylinder head and and the tubes being bent for that truck. Not hard at all to find I think, just don't wanna order headers for a vette and find they don't fit because they have fitment issues in a truck, being there 2 totally different vehicles.
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Try calling summit or jegs, speak to a sales associate or technical assistance person. Tell them what engine you have and what it's going in.
It's not really that you need to match headers to the corvette engine, it's matching headers to that specific cylinder head and and the tubes being bent for that truck. Not hard at all to find I think, just don't wanna order headers for a vette and find they don't fit because they have fitment issues in a truck, being there 2 totally different vehicles.
Yea I understand. I've put all kinds of engine in early Broncos. I was wondering if anyone has any ideas of the specific ones. Maybe someone else has already tried..
I don't think it will be hard.
Thanks LTZ
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The Chevy ZZ4 crate motor uses the same L98 aluminum heads that your corvette motor has.
The ZZ4 is one of GM's most popular crate engines and many have been installed into 73-87's.
I'm not good at posting links, but if you Google "86 k10 ZZ4 headers" you will find a post on this forum with lots of good info.
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Good call there Fitz. Your welcome Brocksdad.
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Playing catch up on this thread, but I would highly suggest using the 87 sending unit with the AC EP241 (corvette) pump mounted to it. Being in the tank keeps down noise and lenghtens the life of the pump. You don't need the baffled tank unless you plan to slalom the truck, just don't run it too empty and you will be fine.
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I'm searching high and low for headers for this L98. It of course has the aluminum heads with angle plugs. Any suggestions? I'm not sure I trust the tech guys at Summit.
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Did you search the post I talked about?
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Did you search the post I talked about?
Well I searched it about the fuel. I'll check it out for headers. Thanks
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Do you have a Pep Boys auto parts near you?
A few of the Pep Boys here in Mass have a speed shop section. Its a real speed shop (not just a few cheap chrome air cleaners). They will match Summit & Jegs prices. It might be worth buying the headers there. If there is a figment issue you can return them to the store and not have to deal with shipping them back.
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Yea we sure do. I'll check it out
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These should fit the truck: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/hed-66099
This is a post on the ZZ4 motor and headers. Unless you plan to upgrade I wouldn't get the 1.75 primaries.
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Ok got the header thing figured. Ordering today.
Going with the 87 sending unit and vet pump.
Ordering the speed sensor today. And I think I'm going to just get a chip to delete the VATS.
God,Family,Fishing,Cardinals baseball,Chevy trucks
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Sweet! Keep it goin man. We expect lots of pictures.
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What headers did you buy?
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The Headman 69099 for D-port heads with angle plugs.
God,Family,Fishing,Cardinals baseball,Chevy trucks
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Hey fellas
Got the engine out of the truck, got all the wiring out of the Vet. We pushed the truck outside for cleaning, I'm going to get some M30 degreaser and some floor dry in a bit. Gonna soak down the engine compartment and pressure washer it tomorrow.
Here's a couple pics. (http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/11/29/69494d2a2749f9f784064649e917d1ae.jpg)(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/11/29/ccf16ab179f228a24fba530947baf46c.jpg)(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/11/29/7952498f44226105c5bc3e1db3331867.jpg)(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/11/29/a000eb5c0045385125cc6548be7d8ab8.jpg)
God,Family,Fishing,Cardinals baseball,Chevy trucks
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Nice. Keep going.
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Got the engine bay cleaned and pressure washed with simple green. I'll be dropping it in tomorrow after work
God,Family,Fishing,Cardinals baseball,Chevy trucks
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We like this updating. Don't forget pics
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Ok got it in tonight. It was about the easiest engine install I've ever done.
Now I have to do some research on were the computer gets its power, wether to use the truck harness for alternator, and so on. After I got it sat a lot of wiring questions came to mind.
I hope someone can chime in.
My Headman 69099 headers came in, now these are D port specific headers, I also ordered a collector adapter with a 02 BUNG welded in. I'll listen that number later.
I'm also wanting to remove the smog pump, so I have to find the correct belt.
Here's a pic of it setting in.
(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/12/02/702f7123f4b3cc21e6ff837c8105d78b.jpg)
God,Family,Fishing,Cardinals baseball,Chevy trucks
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I would utilize the factory harness for all sensors, power distribution, grounds and accessories; alternator, AC, starter, oil press, water temp, etc.
I would use the factory harness to control the motor and it's required sensors for running the motor. Are you planning on sorting out the factory Vette harness?
Looks nice in there. I have one in the 2WD K5 I was working on...
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I plan on using the Vet harness. My question is how will I get power to my lights and ignition and so on. Or I guess I could splice into the truck harness were the Vet harness stops.
God,Family,Fishing,Cardinals baseball,Chevy trucks
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There is a front lighting harness, rear lighting harness and engine harness on the truck. If it was carb'd, you will end up using most of the engine harness for the motor, nothing changes with the front/rear lighting. You need to modify the Vette harness and just send it power and grounds to make it work..
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Yea I guess I wasn't clear. And I was having a brain fart.
I need to just use truck power and ground to the Vet harness,
Vet harness will supply power back to the battery for charging.
I think I'll use truck wiring for starter? And AC.
God,Family,Fishing,Cardinals baseball,Chevy trucks
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Get a wiring diagram for the engine wiring for the truck and for the vette, then match up the wires (alternator, oil pressure, coolant temp exc.) Then just splice the truck and vette harnesses together, effectively making it one complete harness as if it's supposed to be like that. Then you will also find out where to get your power and grounds.
The idea is to supply the power/ground for the vette harness as needed and mesh the 2 harnesses together so they finish as one.
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Get a wiring diagram for the engine wiring for the truck and for the vette, then match up the wires (alternator, oil pressure, coolant temp exc.) Then just splice the truck and vette harnesses together, effectively making it one complete harness as if it's supposed to be like that. Then you will also find out where to get your power and grounds.
The idea is to supply the power/ground for the vette harness as needed and mesh the 2 harnesses together so they finish as one.
Gotcha
God,Family,Fishing,Cardinals baseball,Chevy trucks
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So I just went and got some hydraulic fittings from a company here locally called Siscos hose and hydraulic. They told me that they can make my fuel line's. And they even have the snap connectors for the sending unit! And the correct screw on style ends for the Vet fuel lines. How great is that!
I'll be getting my sending unit today and lines this Saturday. I'll be sure to take pics and get part numbers.
God,Family,Fishing,Cardinals baseball,Chevy trucks
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Good to hear! That's how you research and find a way to get it done.
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you can stand alone the harness for the truck. The TPI online needs a ground, power and a few sensors. The truck harness doesn't have to be spliced short of the power and grounds.
Look here too: http://www.chevythunder.com/
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you can stand alone the harness for the truck. The TPI online needs a ground, power and a few sensors. The truck harness doesn't have to be spliced short of the power and grounds.
Look here too: http://www.chevythunder.com/
Chevy Thunder is great.
I printed the entire TPI section of the site last night and took it to work and hole punched it today for a binder.
Tonight is the start of the wiring.
Wiring is my thing as a heavy equipment tech, so I should be good.
I've got my solder and heat shrink tube.
One question Capt
Where did you go through the firewall for the computer harness?
God,Family,Fishing,Cardinals baseball,Chevy trucks
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On the 81-up 1/2T truck there is a ESC with a grommet at the firewall. I unpinned everything and passed the wiring through that.
You can see in this picture where it comes out.
(http://www.73-87chevytrucks.com/projects/87R10-Driver/engine_wiring.jpg)
The TBI trucks used the same grommet and mounting are for the ECM instead of the ESC box. The Vette box should fit right in a TBI holder under the dash just like mine did.
(http://www.73-87chevytrucks.com/projects/87R10-Driver/TBI_ECM_out.jpg)
All you need are grounds, switched power, ING, fuel pump if you leave the emissions stuff off. Check some of Street and Performances pages also:
http://www.hotrodlane.cc/
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Thanks a bunch.
God,Family,Fishing,Cardinals baseball,Chevy trucks
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That's what I did too. I took apart the ECM plug, each wire was labeled and mapped on a grid for proper reassembly, then passed the harness thru the firewall, then put it all back together again.
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Well this is great. The wiring talked about on Chevy Thunder doesn't pertain to my 89 vet.
God,Family,Fishing,Cardinals baseball,Chevy trucks
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Did you get wiring diagrams for both vehicles like I said?
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I do.
There are some discrepancies on the injectors Conn. And what wires need to be connected to power.
In Chevy Thunder it's a different harness.
Hotrodlane doesn't help. Good info but no help on this harness.
They all talk about 88 and below.
I can do alot. But I don't want to fry this comp.
I got all the wires separated today, and the OBD port aswell.
God,Family,Fishing,Cardinals baseball,Chevy trucks
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Here's the deal
Chevy Thunder show the injectors Conn having 3 wires mine has more and different colors,
Here are some pics.
Has anyone else used a 89 harness?
God,Family,Fishing,Cardinals baseball,Chevy trucks
(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/12/06/5d156df67454f5fd57d007204a1daeaa.jpg)(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/12/06/898682f01cc17716e9882f657e94498d.jpg)
The white connection is what I'm assuming is the injectors Conn. Not sure.
Also nothing I'm finding is telling me wether to use the Vet harness for the distributor and starter. Or the truck harness. Everything is very vague.
Please help.
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Track down the wires from the injectors back to find out where they go.
You should be using the vette harness for the distributor, the only wires from the truck that need to go to the area are the "Batt" and "Tach" wires from the truck side. The truck should have a Batt wire that went to the distributor or ignition coil, it needs to go to the same place on the vette ignition coil. Then Tach to Tach obviously if you have a tach. Use the truck wiring to go to the starter, should be a POS battery cable, and then a few wires, one being from the ignition switch to start the truck, and the other standard starter wires, I think there's 3 in total. The vette harness should have a wire that goes to the starter that gets energized when you start the truck, should be on the same post as the ignition switch wire, this tells the computer that your starting the engine.
That's the way it works on my TBI setup, I may be wrong but I think it works the same on TPI, maybe Capt will chime in again.
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Well I found all the wires that I need to go to my new fuse box I'll buy tomorrow.
Got the wires separated, figured out.
I'll route them through the firewall tomorrow.
I have to order the prom though.
I've heard about burning your own. Anyone here done that. Seems that it cost as much to buy the stuff to burn as it does to buy one burnt. From what little I have read.
Also need to find out the proper belt length for removing the smog pump.
I think me not feeling well got me flustered. But I'm back on track now.
God,Family,Fishing,Cardinals baseball,Chevy trucks
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Ok cool. Glad you got it figured out. Not feeling your best can really mess up your wrenching skills, I know I've tried to wrench and just had to stop if I was sick cuz it don't work when your feeling ill. What fuse block are you getting?
One day I would like to get all new wiring for my truck, even tho I know alot of it is still good, alot of it is also not. One day I would like to get the harness from a 90s or maybe mid 2000s truck with all the normal stuff, cruise, ac, power doors and windows and power seats, sterio and just re wire the truck and just splice in the trucks original wiring where needed, for the cluster and steering colum and light plugs and such. Would like to move the entire fuse block to under the hood, every single fuse and relay I can get there, I would like it all at one place under the hood in one nice neat box. But that's another topic for another day.
Anyways, on with your current project!
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I've heard about burning your own. Anyone here done that. Seems that it cost as much to buy the stuff to burn as it does to buy one burnt. From what little I have read.
I've never burned my own chips, and unfortunately I can't find anyone locally who still works with TPI chips to have one done.
I looked into a company called Fast Fuel Injection. They make a stand alone harness for TPI systems (my truck has a painless wiring harness) with its own self tuning computer. This system eliminates the need to burn chips.
The system cost about $900. It's more money then getting a mail order chip (about $200) but is seems like a decent option if you plan on any engine modifications down the road.
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I'm just getting a sealed 6 bank blade style fuse box from a company called Hutchinson here in Evansville. It's more than I need but I might need some more later.
I think I might just get a prom from Tpiparts.com that is VATS delete and maybe stage 1.
God,Family,Fishing,Cardinals baseball,Chevy trucks
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Oh ok. Cool cool. Don't forget about Howell Engine Development.
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You want switched power to come from the truck harness. As it is connected to the switch. The Vette harness should control the motor.
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Yes exactly I'm right with you
God,Family,Fishing,Cardinals baseball,Chevy trucks
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Where are the pics man?! I wanna see this thing haha.
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Where are the pics man?! I wanna see this thing haha.
I had posted one.
Here it is.
I'll get more. (http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/12/09/f98c30d130da421d50165f81070d5917.jpg)
God,Family,Fishing,Cardinals baseball,Chevy trucks
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Yea saw that one already. You have us hoping for more
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Ok so my hip has been killing me so no other work has been done. But I have some more install pics and a list of parts with numbers bought so far. Ill put a list together at the first page eventually
(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/12/10/78feac400d521210ff3ca87c260592f7.jpg)this is the pile of wires I started with for the under-dash connections (http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/12/10/27e91ac5a45c7a9032a4914a9cfcecdf.jpg)this is what I am now left with before taping and fuse box and connection (http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/12/10/0a64bcba0c89366e034f99c3e9f4ddf0.jpg)most all of this that is laying over the booster will go, its vet harness that isn't needed (http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/12/10/5cdb39a01844e97e6ca2374a7f814ab2.jpg)Ill have plenty of room for the Vet fan I scored from the donor car (http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/12/10/07c430afc5b48ae54725c07e8a822f92.jpg)(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/12/10/99ecef1ce5f7dc3015573b7e3a7d4855.jpg)just teaser shots(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/12/10/2980a1c71207b2032920e58ecd1f6eba.jpg)headman 69099 headers(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/12/10/63893b88b2848c0dc539bc8084dc73fd.jpg)headman collector 21143 with 02 bung(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/12/10/e9903ff2bf62b77a64cc6ef45a11c0c9.jpg)RPC SPEED SENSOR
Parts
Headers he-69099
Collector he-21143
Speed sensor RPC-250-4153
Now these are all Summit numbers, so Im not sure if they are the same everywhere.
BRYCE
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Good work so far! That's what we like to see. Looks good so far. The engine looks good sitting in there.
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Here's an update for you
Got the wires through the firewall and ready to plug into the fuse panel I got today (http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/12/12/fbb412b85f787a1c7f2359873f91c43d.jpg)(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/12/12/e7e553f8cc1384164bee82a06e41528b.jpg)
God,Family,Fishing,Cardinals baseball,Chevy trucks
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Nice. Have you decided where you are gonna put the ECM? In factory mount?
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Nice. Have you decided where you are gonna put the ECM? In factory mount?
Yea it's going right in the factory mount.
Now to figure out the AC and alternator and all that.
God,Family,Fishing,Cardinals baseball,Chevy trucks
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Can you post a pic of that area? I'm interested to see how that's set up.
What exactly do you have to figure out for the ac and alt?
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Well the Vet harness is there and nice. But I need it actually on the truck harness side. So I'm going to keep the Vet harness prewired for everything, and splice my pre-existing truck harness into it where needed for alternator and the ac,
I'm inside at the moment I'll get a pic of the under dash tomorrow
God,Family,Fishing,Cardinals baseball,Chevy trucks
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LTZ C20 I posted a pic of it in Reply #83
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Oh ok. Sounds good. Thanks Capt, I'll look again.
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I got a bunch of the wiring done today. But I'm stumped on the AC part along with the fan.
I can't seem to find a good 89 vet accessories schematics that lines up with mine. And when I picked up the Vet the fan and a few other things where already unplugged.
Also I want to be able to use my ac. So I'm off to the web for hours of digging.
God,Family,Fishing,Cardinals baseball,Chevy trucks
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What exactly are you looking for for the ac setup? I think your looking for the ac request wires that tell the ECM to up the idle and the engage wires that activate the compressor right?
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I just wanted to k ow what to hook up to so my compressor works when I need it to. It's also supposed to come on when the rad fan comes on.
The only plug I can find that will fit into the fan plug is purple on one and black on the other.
God,Family,Fishing,Cardinals baseball,Chevy trucks
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Yea basically. When you turn on the ac it sends power to the ac request wires for the ECM increasing the idle. It also sends power to the compressor, engaging it and power to the fans. I have a 91 camaro with the same engine, I believe that at op temp both fans come on low, when ac is requested, fans turn up to hi. My truck is set up so that at op temp 1 fan runs and at ac request the second kicks on. This is because the fans I have are single speed and I think the vette vans are dual speed. Did you find the wiring diagrams yet? If you can't find them by Monday or if you just want to wait till Monday I can see if I can find some diagrams at work.
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I have a single fan.
I can't find the plug for the fan. I guess it's gone. Cut off buy the junkyard, they had started on the Vet. I don't have a clue witch one of the 4 is the fan relay. Every harness diagram I find is different from what I have.
I appreciate the help.
I'm still digging.
God,Family,Fishing,Cardinals baseball,Chevy trucks
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Ok. I'll see what I can dig up on monday. The best way when you find out what color wire and position it is, start at the ECM plug and work your way out following the wire till it stops, it may lead to a connector or cut end. At that point you can either try and buy new connectors or go to a junk yard again and find another vette and cut those connectors off and take them home and solder and heat shrink them into the harness or use butt connectors with heat shrink ends or something. You want them to be water proof. Every time a make a wiring repair or have something apart under the hood, I upgrade the connections to Packard style weatherproof plugs. That's the factory type GM used. Eventually all my under hood connections will be water proof, the older vehicles connections were ok but not the best for keeping water out.
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The power request for the AC has to come from the truck though..
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Yes sir. Not sure where to tie into it. Before computer, or at the compressor
God,Family,Fishing,Cardinals baseball,Chevy trucks
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Straight to the compressor. It should have a tail on it to tie into the Vette harness...
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10-4 I'll get that done then. Thanks.
God,Family,Fishing,Cardinals baseball,Chevy trucks
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Yea if I didn't make that part clear sorry. The ac request from the truck should go straight to the compressor. On my old harness, the ac request wire split at one point and turned into 2 wires doing the same job, one went to the comp and the other to the fast idle solenoid. On the tbi engine I have now, it's the same. One still goes to comp, the other goes to ac request signal to the ecm, not a solenoid. Does the same thing tho, tells the ecm the ac is on, ecm does the rest.
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Well been busy with Christmas and all, not much done lately, got in touch with a guy that does proms, he's going to delete the VATS, tune it for pulling a trailer, and a few other things for 65.00.
Tomorrow I'm pulling the smog crap off, and finishing up the wiring.
Hopefully Sunday I'll get the headers on.
Bryce
God,Family,Fishing,Cardinals baseball,Chevy trucks
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Nice. Good to hear back. Was wondering what happened to ya for a while there.
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Well went out to install the headers today. Didn't. Turn out so well. I actually vet the drivers side on no problem. But as I prepared to install the leaf side I notice that the header weld on the mating surface was ground to much on the top of three of the ports. Kinda rounded over and nearly down to the flange. I used red paint to mark the lines. I think you can see it. I sent an email to summit. With details and pics. I hope I didn't miss this on the drivers side. (http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/12/30/66b52f8191af1b3740d124988bc6fb83.jpg)(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/12/30/9219f15e9d714a4c38507b8cfcb34fba.jpg)(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/12/30/06289fc0e14e934c1461f931c37e63ec.jpg)
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Oh nice. Can you say exhuast leak lol.
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Yea not happy.
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Wow... I thought mine were bad! That's just rediclouse!
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What did summit say?
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Summit hasn't responded yet
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Do you have a welder or know someone that does?
You could just build up that area with a weld and then file it flat.
I know you shouldn't have to fix someone else's mistake. You paid the money and should have received a quality product.
I'm just trying to keep the project moving forward.
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Ok
Summit got back with me and they are shipping my new headers now. All I have to do is box the old ones back up(I still have the box) and ups will pic them up. Summit even paid return postage.
Great customer service.
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Yes they do. I have returned stuff before. Their customer service is excellent. Good to hear.
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Summit is great to work with if you run into problems like that.
Hopefully the new headers have better build quality.
Looking forward to watching you get this truck up & running.
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Well. I woke up this morning with high hopes of taking my son out to shoot his new gun. But its going to be raining all day. Gonna be close to 60 today so I will be out in the shop taking all the smog stuff off and looking for a large piece of flat stoke aluminum. I am going to make my own smog pump delete pulley bracket.
Hopefully by the end of the day ill have the smog and egr stuff off and the new fuse box mounted and wired
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You should be able to buy a smog pump delete pulley and bracket. Not saying you have to, but it might be easier too. Unless your pretty good with the fabrication kinda stuff.
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You should be able to buy a smog pump delete pulley and bracket. Not saying you have to, but it might be easier too. Unless your pretty good with the fabrication kinda stuff.
Yea I'm pretty good, I took blueprints in school, have my own welder,torch plasma cutter and so on.
I'm making it out of aluminum, I'll polish it.
Only thing I don't have is a lathe to turn down a few parts, but I have a drill press.
God,Family,Fishing,Cardinals baseball,Chevy trucks
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Oh nice. I have drill press and a welder, wish I had a plasma cutter. I did 3 years of engineering and drafting in high school. Probably should have pursued that but I play with cars instead.
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If everything works out on this bracket I'm going to sell them, I know a good shop with a water jet and cnc. I'll sell them for around half what the others go for.
God,Family,Fishing,Cardinals baseball,Chevy trucks
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Ordered the lokar throttle cable,ep243 fuel pump, and 87 v10 sending unit. All from summit. Surprisingly Summit is cheaper than all the national parts chains.
God,Family,Fishing,Cardinals baseball,Chevy trucks
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Nice. Yes summit is awesome. I'm interested to see how those brackets turn out.
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Well I got my second set of Headman headers today and they are in worse condition than the first set. So I'm sending them back. I've ordered a set of Doug's Tri-Y ceramic coated headers. Yea a lot more money but a lot less hassle.
More to come in a few days after the freezing weather. I'm going to go back over my wiring and take detailed pics so I can attempt to do a nice informational write up on how to complete this project on your own. Complete with a list of all part numbers and hopefully the cheapest place to buy.
The prom is in the mail to get the VATS deleted, smog programs delete, egr delete, tuned for better performance for towing and fuel economy.
God,Family,Fishing,Cardinals baseball,Chevy trucks
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Here is the headers I am now waiting on (http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/01/06/6d47d2625e170c8452bf2ea3cdf435ed.jpg)
God,Family,Fishing,Cardinals baseball,Chevy trucks
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Nice headers. I'm sorry to hear that the hedman's didn't work out. I have a set and they are good. Oh well, guess the quality control guy was off that day haha. I still have to do a write up for the TBI swap I did back in august haha.
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Got my throttle cable, sending unit, and fuel pump yesterday.
Looks like it will be a few more days until I get my headers and cold air intake system. Both are coming from California.
So today ill be cleaning up the driveway and the garage a little even though its only going to get to 17 today.
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How's this project goin?
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Stalled. Waiting on the parts
God,Family,Fishing,Cardinals baseball,Chevy trucks
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Sorry to hear that. What are you waiting for.
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Well I was waiting on my exhaust but (http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/01/13/e33eb734721c58373e16ae43234282d3.jpg)
And today I made my smog delete bracket (http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/01/13/f3a225e62a148360933f2bbc945a82fd.jpg)
And I also got my cold air today.
I'm still waiting on my prom to return.
I have to buy some high pressure fuel line.
And it needs to warm up.
Bryce
God,Family,Fishing,Cardinals baseball,Chevy trucks
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I got the fuel pump and sending unit in today, and a ton of the wiring done. I also test fit the headers.
God,Family,Fishing,Cardinals baseball,Chevy trucks
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Nice, back to making progress.
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Those Doug's headers look really good... How was the fit?
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Those Doug's headers look really good... How was the fit?
I honestly don't think I touched anything as I slid them between the engine and frame.
Summit wanted 900.00
I found them new in box on eBay for 450 shipped. The guys carries all Doug's headers.
God,Family,Fishing,Cardinals baseball,Chevy trucks
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The Doug's also has the 02 sensor bung welded high in the headers so a heated sensor is not needed. All others I looked at required a header collector with the adapter and that is to far down stream.
God,Family,Fishing,Cardinals baseball,Chevy trucks
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I welded the bung to my collector just on the exhuast pipe side, not the header it self. I got a nice set of hedmans and had them ceramic coated satin black so I wasn't about to go cutting and welding on them.
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I couldn't find any that had that bung welded in other than these. The Doug's came welded in. It's really nice. I'll get some pics.
God,Family,Fishing,Cardinals baseball,Chevy trucks
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I'm glad you like them. They look really nice.
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Did you get it running?
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90% wiring is done. Just need to mount and wire fuse box,
Computer prom is back and VATS delete is done.
New 87 sending unit and vet pump is in.
I have everything to finish it. Just not the time. It's been so cold this winter and now I have fishing season with tournament trail.
It hasn't been started, it's just not close enough.
Bryce
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Thanks everyone for your support and input.
I am broke and can't afford to finish.
So this thread won't go any further.
Bryce
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Well that's too bad really. So did you sell it or just gonna wait till you have money again?
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Not sold. Yet.
Bryce
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Sorry to hear that. I know a few of us here where looking forward to seeing you get this thing up and goin, especially me.
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I was looking forward to your TPI build.
I have an 81 8'step side 4x4 with a SB 400 with TPI.
I blew up the motor a few years ago and parked the truck indoors.
I bought a M1028 Military truck to play around with, and the stepside kinda got forgotten about.
Your project got me thinking about a game plan for my truck. Its been sitting way too long.
Good luck with your truck. I hope it sells quickly.
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Ok
I have had a lot happen in the past month. Got a raise, and a drivable vehicle.
So the truck didn't get sold. It's back in the shop and after I get back from Cincinnati this coming weekend I'll be hopefully finishing up the wiring.
My goal is to have the truck on the road in a month.
Bryce
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glad to hear, welcome back :)
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Sweeeeet. Good to hear back from you. We have missed following the project. Can't wait to see it get done!
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Welcome back. I'm looking forward to seeing this project come together.
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Got the truck running and on the road.
I have some wires to loom yet. But it's definitely a fun truck.
My fuel gauge is way off.
I will eventually do a color coded write up on the wires needed for this year engine go I g into these trucks. Along with what to expect and parts needed.
I'm now on a search for black interior parts. And 2 or 2.5 front and rear leafs.
Here is a few pics of the engine as it sits.
The intake is not as I like it to be but as it has to be until I get my A/C lines made.
I'm also on the hunt for the blazer grill and headlights.
(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/07/07/69037e59e9e82725a6dbab25f72edfd4.jpg)(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/07/07/ddb73f88add9342cdc7d681e50e3af40.jpg)(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/07/07/6b66516809ed8514bab845073032df5a.jpg)(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/07/07/f06fc96030bd1d6fb8921a6bce8336cb.jpg)(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/07/07/fd7256e19120e3761ea2c4d34d8da0d9.jpg)
Bryce
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I'm glad to see that you stuck with it & got it running. I've always been a fan of the TPI motors.
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nice rebound
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HEY! Check it out, it lives! Good to see you got it done, it looks great. Good job. Hope your enjoying it. Post a video?
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It's running great. The 14 mpg. But the cooling fan comes on as soon as the engine starts. I've gone over all my wiring and everything is right. Only thing I can think is that the ac is calling.
I've tried putting the pressure sensors in the harness from the vet high and low side to trick the comp into thinking the ac was off. But no luck.
Any ideas
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What happens if you pull the AC request wire? It is always hot?
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I don't know witch wire that is. Don't have it on my schematic
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Find the AC and it should have another wire to it. Are you running the Truck AC or?
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No ac in the truck isn't hooked up. Yet. The comp from the vet must be calling.
The ac comp has a plug with two black wires. I'll check when I get home tonight.
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Truck looks good! Good too hear it's working good for you. 14 mpg is about the same I'm getting, depends on how heavy my foot is also, it's usually weighted more towards the heavy side just a bit.
What starter do you have on it? Is it the boat anchor direct drive unit or the smaller, lighter, gear reduction unit?
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It has the vet gear reduced unit on it.
The truck has the dreaded chevy lean to the driver side really bad.
I have some 3\4 ton front springs I'm thinking about installing that are out of an old 83 that have been used hard so they ride like a 1\2 but sit like a 3\4.
It's so bad that the rear is low a half inch on the drivers side.
Other than that it's all good.
It has 343 gears,I have a set of 308 geared axles I'm thinking about swapping in but I might just 2inch lift it and go with 33inch tires and leave the 343 gears.
The paint is going to be that charcoal/blue that was on the cutlass in the 80's it's not really grey but not really blue.... I bet you all know the color.
And blue interior.
First off I have to black out the windows.
Oh znd fix the fan staying on.
Actually going out to work on that now.
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Well,
The the comp is not calling for the fan at all. Not even at correct temp. Witch is weird because the fan switch is new. So.
I must have a bad relay witch is causing the fan to stay on. But what is causing the comp to not call for fan when the engine gets to the correct temp to call for fan. Hmm mm
Well I'm going to aleaviate all my problems and order a fan switch from Summit.
I checked the comp with the solus pro and it's going into loop fine with no issues. All the perameters seem right. Not lean or rich. So I think I'll be OK.
The AC will be hooked up to the old controls and ran without the aid of the comp. I'll make it so when I turn on the AC the fan comes on.
So now to install those springs.
Pics to come.
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Good work so far. I have the gear reduction starter also.
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Back in 1992 I had an 86 Corvette that I ran at New England Dragway.
There was a plug on the A.C. line that I would unplug to keep the fan running as soon as the car was started.
This would help cool down the car when it was running in the staging lane. I would plug it back in for daily driving.
This plug might be worth looking into.
Keep us posted on your progress.
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After I posted that the comp wasn't calling I remembered that it doesn't add power to the green and white wire it only grounds it. I need to actually get a good relay and see what happens at proper temp.
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LOL, I just returned the same exact headers for the exact SAME problem. Pretty sad its still passing through QC.. Great heart transplant on the truck.
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I'm working on a write up on all the wiring for this year engine to these trucks and all parts needed.
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