73-87chevytrucks.com
73-87 Chevy _ GMC Trucks => Brakes, Frame, Steering & Suspension => Topic started by: lyndoncp on December 07, 2014, 07:21:40 pm
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Hey guys,
I need some advise on how to get the best ride out of a 81 1/2 ton k10. I have read that the front inverted springs are rough, you need a slight arch in the spring (lifted spring?) to improve ride. Then I read that there is no lifted spring with the ride quality of factory. Is there any truth to this?
Are all arched front springs lifted, or is there such a thing as an arched front spring with near factory height?
I'm ok with either factory height or slight lift (max 2.5inch) my only concern is ride quality. I want to drive this every day, comfortably.
any and all ideas or advise you have is very appreciated!
Some more info....
I have had a 81 K10 for about 10 years. It started out as a "truck that I enjoyed working on" to eventually, "my obsession".
first thing I did many years back was to put on a stiff Rough country 4" lift *front spring and block and add a leaf in the rear) Needless to tell you guys it rides pretty stiff.
I never really did take the truck off road it has been a hobby to mechanic on and drive casually. I really want to drive this a daily in comfort. My main concern is ride quality. But as I consider changing suspension I can't decide what direction to go. I want to go to a 15x10 wheel with a -36 to -45 offset. I like the tire/wheel to sit out of the fender. I would love to go with a 275/60 all around but not sure if that would look goofy on a 4x4.
A quick background on the truck; in last few years I have replaced the front (10 bolt) and rear (12 bolt) diffs with total rebuilds and 3:73 gearing as well as the TH350 transmission with a beefed up rebuild and fresh rebuild on the transfer case. Just recently, I have just finished a vortec engine build and EFI conversion. I have gotten rid of the saddle tanks and relocated the fuel tank to the box. Next project perfecting a stance/tire rim combination and getting rid of all vibration possible working on drive shaft angles and balancing.
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A few more pictures of the truck.... lets face it pictures are awesome.
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IMO, get rid of the AAL in the rear unless you are constantly carrying a load. with no load they just add extra bounce.
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Replacing the trampoline seats helps a bunch.
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I'm trying to do the same thing
We have a totally stock k-10
Stock springs no lift
It rides harder than any dump truck
We also have a f-350 and it rides like a dream but the stock springs on the K10 are stiffer than on a 6 wheeler that will carry twice the weight ???
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If you got rid of the saddle tanks then it allows you room to move the front hanger on the rear springs forward and you can run longer springs! This will make a big difference as spring rate is directly tied to the length of the springs. Also...spring deflection is related to the 3rd power of the length, so small changes in length equate to big deflection changes. Also...one of the limiting factors in spring deflection is stress in the material. That is also directly related to the length. Longer springs can deflect more without exceeding the stress fatigue limit for the spring.
Another thing to consider is how much load carrying capacity do you need? If you don't ever haul anything then you don't need the high spring rate. Places like Deaver and Alcan can custom make you some really nice springs!
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All good suggestions thank you very much for your replies.
I agree the add a leaf is first to come out, they gave me about an inch of additional height so I could get the right stance. The rear springs were a little sagged, just adding the blocks on the back with new springs up front had the truck a little nose up.
there is no doubt I will go with just a spring lift in the back if I do go with any lift.
Replacing the seat actually never crossed my mind, I guess my thought was getting spanked with a trampoline is better than a two by four. but if you think that may help Id give it some thought. Actually a while back I contemplated putting in air ride seats from a semi, without the saddle gas tanks I can drop the floor down quite a bit to sink a seat down if I want. A cool air ride, low back seat from a Kenworth or Pete would be bad as long as it was set up at the right height ect.
@ Rooundhouse.... So you have stock springs and they are still quite rough? have you ever ridden in a lifted k10 to compare? just
curious how you would compare them???
Ehjorten, your idea about moving to a longer spring makes allot of sense. But if you moved just your front forward would it not in turn move the axle closer to the front of the truck and would not be centered in the wheel well? I was thinking I would have to relocate both the front and back to keep the wheel centered? The truck never carries any weight, its a glorified car. I'm embarrassed to say that but it has slowly turned into my big ugly baby. I'm thinking about both your suggestion to move the hangers out and a custom made set of springs. Might be a good combo??
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May try Skyjacker. I had 8" front springs with a big block engine and loved them. A firm ride, but not rough...... There is a reason GM went to IFS in 1988. Skyjacker should have a 2", or 4" spring available.
Also GM went from a 52" rear spring to a 64" rear spring in 1988 when they redesigned the full size truck line. The reason was to give a better ride. You may try moving your spring hangers to accommodate the longer rear spring of a 1988+ K1500.
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Never ridden in a lifted K-10
My brother had a Plymouth trailduster with a 10 spring lift and 40"s. My stock k-10 rides about the same
We've considered getting rid of every leaf except the main one and installing the airlift bags that are sold to increase load capacity
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Like a 2WD 71 c-10 ??
We do Have a limited budget
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Lyndoncp,
How do you like that Fast EFi set up?
Lock5,
The truck in your avatar looks just like the truck 1HI4x4 owns. Did he buy it from you?
Its a sharp truck.
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Lyndoncp,
How do you like that Fast EFi set up?
Lock5,
The truck in your avatar looks just like the truck 1HI4x4 owns. Did he buy it from you?
Its a sharp truck.
Fitz, we are one in the same. Lock5 is my sign on at work, I was unable to retrieve my password.
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That makes sense, When I seen the post the truck looked familiar.
Its probably safe to say that you have the only crew cab, short bed, 4x4, with a 6bt around.
Your truck is coming out great.
As far as the best suspension for the K10, I can't offer much help.
My M1028 is rated as a 5/4 ton truck. I added 2" Tuff County front springs to it to replace the worn stock springs. Its no Cadilac, but I love driving it.
It will be interesting to see what you come up with for your truck.
Keep us posted.
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come on 1HI4x4. Don't be doing that. You could email me and I can reset it. Please don't have more than one ID on the forum. I am going to remove that one So please copy paste with your real ID in any threads you used in it and let me know.
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I love the Fast EZ EFI set up so far. SUPER easy installation. As far as the overall performance; I'm still getting things dialed in but it is working pretty darn good. I live in Canada and cold starts were an area of interest for me. Last week at -27 Celsius (-17F) I went out hit the key and it fired up then hit 700RPM like it was a nice spring day. Throttle is crisp and response is excellent. I'm still working with spark curves timing and air fuel mixture combo's. This was a new engine build so it has been interesting tuning Air/Fuel/Spark and mechanical timing from scratch!!
Although they say that they are self learning EFI set ups I found there is definitely some limitations and the pre set parameters are good to get and engine to run satisfactory, but there definitely is some tweaking you have to do. Nothing too serious, and nothing a few tanks of fuel and most the tread on the back tires wont solve.
The four link rear suspension has my attention but I believe I am going to go with a custom set of super soft springs with a factory stance. And possibly airbags on the rear. I have looked into relocating the spring shackles but am a bit intimidated screwing with the geometry of the suspension but will continue to research this as much as I can.
I have to keep reminding myself, I have a old 4x4, not a Cadillac. A bit of a rough ride is part of the experience.
I'll make sure to keep the thread up to date on what I do!!!
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Ehjorten, your idea about moving to a longer spring makes allot of sense. But if you moved just your front forward would it not in turn move the axle closer to the front of the truck and would not be centered in the wheel well? I was thinking I would have to relocate both the front and back to keep the wheel centered? The truck never carries any weight, its a glorified car. I'm embarrassed to say that but it has slowly turned into my big ugly baby. I'm thinking about both your suggestion to move the hangers out and a custom made set of springs. Might be a good combo??
Yes...you would move the rear shackle bracket back as well. I only mentioned the front bracket because with saddle tanks you can't move the bracket forward, but without saddle tanks you can! It is also possible to have non-symmetric leaf springs, whereas the axle pin is not centered on the leaf arch. Places like Deaver and Alcan can make you springs for your specific application that will improve the ride. You say you never haul anything with it, so your truck really doesn't need the load carrying capacity of the stock springs.