Post by: BBM3 on January 24, 2015, 03:31:30 pm
The truck is mostly unmolested, complete, has little rust, but needs a lot of mechanical attention.
My plan is to make it safe and reliable and hopefully stick with it until it is done.
Encouragement to finish will always be welcome.
Here is a picture from the seller. I'll take a few more once I have it home on Monday.
(http://www.bnkk.net/k10/1975_K10.jpg)
Post by: illinoisk30 on January 24, 2015, 08:39:42 pm
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Post by: Engineer on January 24, 2015, 08:42:08 pm
Post by: LTZ C20 on January 24, 2015, 10:24:27 pm
Post by: BBM3 on January 25, 2015, 12:16:34 am
I can't wait to get it home and start wrenching.
It has a lot of potential.
Welcome from Northern Illinois. That is a very nice looking short bed. What mechanical attention does it need?
Thanks
It needs:
Radiator
Engine refresh
Power steering gear (I am doing the pump and lines while I’m at it)
Tie rod ends
Brake system from the peddle back
Clutch (maybe just an adjustment)
Transmission shift linkage sloppy
Transmission tail seal
Transfer case seals at least
Fuel lines (need to inspect tanks and senders)
All suspension, cab, and bed bushings
I’m sure I’ll find more once I get it home.
Score.
Thanks
I think I did okay at $2750
This is exactly the truck I was looking for.
Nice looking truck. Congrats.
Thanks
It looks good at 10 feet the devil is in the details.
Post by: LTZ C20 on January 25, 2015, 06:56:48 pm
Post by: BBM3 on January 26, 2015, 05:47:13 pm
Haha join the club. Looks amazing from 100 feet away. 10 inches and it's a paint job only a momma could love. Lol
I was being generous at 10 feet. It looks much better 20+
Post by: BBM3 on January 26, 2015, 06:01:09 pm
I put it on my lift and gave the old gal a thorough inspection turns out it may not be as bad as I first thought.
The first thing I did was to adjust the clutch linkage and to my surprise it now disengages and engages at about 1/2 peddle travel rather than at the very end. I am pleased.
Tomorrow I attack the sloppy steering.
Post by: LTZ C20 on January 26, 2015, 07:13:44 pm
Post by: BBM3 on January 26, 2015, 08:05:37 pm
Edit:
Oops I forgot the C/K ran through '87
Post by: LTZ C20 on January 27, 2015, 12:30:21 am
Post by: BBM3 on January 27, 2015, 12:54:21 am
My new truck is the first for me in a long time without an ECM, PCM, VCM, WXYZCM and I love it.
Carb is running a bit rich right now and I have to relearn how to tune using hardware rather than software.
Post by: LTZ C20 on January 27, 2015, 01:17:54 am
I have nothin against carbs, I like them. Just this engine doesnt lol. I work at a dealer so I know what you mean by computers, need some kind of module just to pick your nose and another to tell you where to put the booger hahaha.
Post by: cali6shooter on January 27, 2015, 08:37:28 pm
Post by: BBM3 on January 28, 2015, 01:39:08 am
The RPO sticker in the glovebox says RPO 117L 17 Saratoga Silver
Everything I have found so far tells me 1975 Chevy Truck paint code 17 = Medium Graystone.
Post by: BBM3 on January 28, 2015, 09:31:08 pm
Today I installed a new power steering pump, pressure and return lines, rag joint, and steering gear (box).
Huge positive improvement in steering performance.
Two minor regrets:
1) I found a quick ratio steering gear while surfing for other parts today. Too late.
2) I also found a rag joint rebuild kit that would have saved me $35. Too late.
Tie rod ends and damper are on the way for Saturday delivery. I'll have the front end aligned Monday.
Tomorrows to do list:
1) De-grease and pressure wash everything.
2) Pressure test cooling system. Flush and fill if pressure test is okay.
3) Compression test the "Mighty 350 4BBL".
2) Replace the turn signal assembly in the steering column.
(Someone dropped a Duce in the column. Figuratively not literally).
Post by: LTZ C20 on January 28, 2015, 11:22:31 pm
Post by: BBM3 on January 28, 2015, 11:36:07 pm
Whoever thought they knew what they were doing when "Fixing" my steering column was.......a Turd.
Post by: LTZ C20 on January 28, 2015, 11:40:16 pm
Post by: BBM3 on January 28, 2015, 11:48:34 pm
I thoroughly enjoy working on and adding a little shine to my 40 year old Turd.
Post by: BBM3 on February 14, 2015, 05:55:05 pm
I have replaced the following:
Tie rods
Steering damper
Rear main crank seal
Oil pan gasket
Valve cover gaskets
Oil pressure sensor (It was leaking like crazy at the crimp)
Engine oil and filter change
Pressure tested, flushed, and filled the cooling system.
Next up is replacing all suspension bushings.
I have a new manifold back dual exhaust system ready to install once I finish hunting and killing all oil leaks.
I am really enjoying trying to get this K10 back to as-built working order.
Post by: BBM3 on February 16, 2015, 04:06:10 pm
I think I solved the oil leaks.
The white towel has been on the floor all day after a test drive and no more pools of oil!
The other pictures are just to show I actually have this truck home.
I had a chance to try 4WD today in the snow. Much to my surprise everything works.
(http://www.bnkk.net/k10/IMG_3046-2.JPG)
(The extra long mis-matched spark plug wires will be replaced)
(http://www.bnkk.net/k10/IMG_3057.JPG)
(http://www.bnkk.net/k10/IMG_3058.JPG)
No more oil leaks!
(http://www.bnkk.net/k10/IMG_3059.JPG)
Post by: LTZ C20 on February 16, 2015, 09:30:44 pm
Post by: BBM3 on February 16, 2015, 09:52:01 pm
Making progress.
As much as I hate too, I think I am going to have a local shop do the leaf spring and hanger bushings.
While they are at it I'll have them re-arch the rear springs. There is a limit to my tools and skills.
Post by: LTZ C20 on February 17, 2015, 01:45:18 am
Post by: Don5 on February 17, 2015, 06:07:54 am
Post by: BBM3 on February 17, 2015, 12:46:58 pm
There's nothing wrong with that. I've considered the same thing for the same parts. I built my engine by hand, slowly and meticulously. I let someone else build my transmission, but I stood there and watched the whole time. Learned a little too, that little has gone a long way.
You are right some things are better left to the Pro’s.
I may still remove one side and give it a try.
That is a good looking truck. I am glad you are getting it sorted out. It should last you quite awhile.
Thanks. It should make it another 40 years if I get it right.
Post by: LTZ C20 on February 17, 2015, 02:43:15 pm
Post by: BBM3 on February 17, 2015, 04:51:27 pm
If I fail I have a great independent shop in town to bail me out.
Post by: BBM3 on February 17, 2015, 06:03:30 pm
I had a major oil leak I thought was coming from the rear main seal.
Oil was dripping from the bottom of the flywheel inspection plate exactly where I would expect to see oil as a result of a bad rear main seal.
So I went ahead and replaced it. I turned out to be a good move and relatively simple except for the hour+ I spent removing the old cork oil pan seal from the block. What a messy pain in the butt.
The good news is that when I removed the oil pump I found the pump shaft coupling was cracked and literally blew apart when I touched it. The new Fel-Pro main seal included a new coupling. I know why.
Back to the leak(s).
Now I have a new main seal and one piece silicone pan gasket installed, start the engine and it still leaks from the inspection plate.
So I start looking from the top down. I should have done this first! Turns out the oil pressure sender next to the distributer was leaking at the crimp, not just a drip but a flood.
I learned something.
When tracking down an oil leak start at the top and work down.
In the long run it's all good. I have new seals, gaskets, an oil pump coupler and in the end my engine is now oil tight.
(http://www.bnkk.net/k10/IMG_3061.JPG)
Post by: enaberif on February 17, 2015, 08:24:55 pm
Post by: LTZ C20 on February 17, 2015, 10:50:58 pm
Post by: BBM3 on February 18, 2015, 07:51:40 pm
Get the metal oil pump drive and it elimates the plastic bushing all together. Mine plastic bushing was in 3 pieces when I pulled mine out.
If I rebuild the engine someday I will do that.
Yea those oil senders are leaky SOB's. Good work tho.
You've got that right.
Post by: LTZ C20 on February 18, 2015, 08:10:27 pm
Post by: BBM3 on February 18, 2015, 08:37:16 pm
Did you find something other than the original type sender that didn't leak?
Post by: LTZ C20 on February 18, 2015, 08:41:13 pm
Post by: BBM3 on February 18, 2015, 09:02:53 pm
Post by: BBM3 on February 18, 2015, 09:13:18 pm
Picked up some grade 8 fasteners and installed them today.
(http://www.bnkk.net/k10/IMG_3062.JPG)
(http://www.bnkk.net/k10/IMG_3063.JPG)
Post by: LTZ C20 on February 18, 2015, 09:47:14 pm
The oil sender I used was for a 90s chevy truck. Has a 3 wire plug, got the sender and harness pigtail from work (GM dealer) only used 1 wire, the other 2 are a back up for the fuel pump on the vehicle it was design for. Had to get an adapter fitting from auto parts store. Been working good so far. My oil gauge is messed up, works the same as it did with the old style senders so I think the newer style is working good but the gauge it's sticky and doesn't move smoothly.
Post by: BBM3 on February 18, 2015, 10:33:45 pm
I'm confident the idiot light and sender work because when turn the ignition switch to "ON" it lights and when I changed the oil it lit for a second or two in "RUN" as oil pressure built up.
My lower frame to crossmember bolts were gone not just loose. The upper bolts are in place and tight.
I am going to tackle the fuel tanks / leaks / senders next. Would appreciate some help if needed once I drop the tanks.
Post by: LTZ C20 on February 19, 2015, 12:54:15 am
Post by: BBM3 on February 20, 2015, 03:37:09 pm
I had the front end aligned today after replacing most of the steering system except ball joints which are still tight.
I was surprised how close my tape measure / eyeball alignment was.
My work has paid off. The steering is now perfect. Way over-boosted and almost no feedback but thats how they were designed 40 years ago.
The forecast is for a couple of feet of snow this weekend. Can't wait to play in the snow with 4WD!
Post by: MannyDantyla on February 23, 2015, 11:36:51 pm
What size are the tires? Is that the stock height? You don't see that too often anymore, I like it
Post by: BBM3 on February 24, 2015, 12:08:05 pm
The tires are stock 235/75/15 and the suspension is original.
I am sure the rotted spring and hanger bushings are too.
Post by: BBM3 on February 24, 2015, 09:02:55 pm
Dash lights were not working. Pulled the headlamp switch and found the rheostat coil was broken and a couple of bulbs were blown.
While I had the cluster apart I cleaned and polished most of the fog and scratches off of the lens. Replaced the headlamp switch and everything is working.
I installed a clutch safety switch which had been removed by a previous owner.
I know most people get rid of them because they are prone to failure but I am far more concerned about someone, maybe my son or the guys at the alignment shop starting the truck in gear and crashing. I made a jumper I will keep in the glovebox if the switch fails.
Dropped the left fuel tank last night and found the leak. The sender has two outlets. One running to the selector and the other is open causing the fuel leak. My truck does not have evap. or return lines and everything clamps, hard lines, etc. look original.
Additionally the ground wire was broken which explains why the fuel gauge was at the 3 o'clock position.
So here is a question:
If I replace the sender with a single outlet how will air enter the tank to replace the volume of fuel displaced as it is used?
I assume the gas cap is supposed to be sealed at the filler neck?
Post by: BBM3 on February 25, 2015, 08:51:59 pm
I have been restraining myself from buying stuff I don't really need.
Just had to have this.
A couple more details under the hood and in the cab it will look close to as it was when it rolled off the line at Flint Assembly 40 years ago.
(http://bnkk.net/k10/$_12.JPG)
Post by: Don5 on February 25, 2015, 09:11:13 pm
Post by: LTZ C20 on February 25, 2015, 09:17:00 pm
Post by: enaberif on February 25, 2015, 09:31:46 pm
So here is a question:
If I replace the sender with a single outlet how will air enter the tank to replace the volume of fuel displaced as it is used?
I assume the gas cap is supposed to be sealed at the filler neck?
You can't have single outlet you will always have either 2 or 3. If you go the 2 route then its a return/supply setup with a vented cap or if you choose to go the 3 route its supply/return/vent and you don't need a vented cap.
Post by: BBM3 on February 25, 2015, 11:07:12 pm
You need to submit some pics of that truck for consideration in the calendar. Just saying that it looks good enough that it might make it.
Thanks that is very kind. Not worthy.
You can't have single outlet you will always have either 2 or 3. If you go the 2 route then its a return/supply setup with a vented cap or if you choose to go the 3 route its supply/return/vent and you don't need a vented cap.
I only have a single feed line from each tank to the selector valve and a single line from the selector valve to the pump.
I can not see where there was ever return, evap, or vent lines. All the plumbing and clamps look original.
Assuming someone removed the return and or vent lines where would they go from the tanks?
This is the unit I have coming tomorrow for the left tank.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000C7W0BS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000C7W0BS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
Post by: enaberif on February 25, 2015, 11:22:09 pm
The selector valve has the same function .. supply/return. Something is funky with your truck.
Here is how it generally works..
Post by: BBM3 on February 25, 2015, 11:41:01 pm
Yes the truck runs.
This is what I have:
The Left tank has a sender with two outlets. One outlet was open to atmosphere and the feed outlet runs directly to the fuel pump.
The selector valve is not currently connected to the fuel pump.
The right tank is not used and it's feed line is connected to the selector valve. I have not dropped it yet so I don't know what is going on with the tank or sender.
EDIT:
Missed your diagram.
My selector valve which looks original has two inlets and one outlet.
The fuel pump has one in and one out.
Post by: enaberif on February 25, 2015, 11:46:08 pm
Sorry I left out details.
Yes the truck runs.
This is what I have:
The Left tank has a sender with two outlets. One outlet was open to atmosphere and the feed outlet runs directly to the fuel pump.
The selector valve is not currently connected to the fuel pump.
The right tank is not used and it's feed line is connected to the selector valve. I have not dropped it yet so I don't know what is going on with the tank or sender.
EDIT:
Missed your diagram.
My selector valve which looks original has two inlets and one outlet.
The fuel pump has one in and one out.
Find out where the two lines from your fuel pump are going to. That will give you a better idea of what is happening.
Post by: BBM3 on February 25, 2015, 11:57:48 pm
Post by: enaberif on February 26, 2015, 12:01:25 am
I only have a single fuel line from the selector valve to the fuel pump and a single line from the fuel pump to the carb.
Ohhhhhhhhhhh yeah. I'm having some serious brain farts. Mine is setup the same way.
Post by: BBM3 on February 26, 2015, 12:06:50 am
Post by: BBM3 on February 26, 2015, 12:13:33 am
You can see the clamp holding the brake and fuel line on their way forward looks original.
It sure doesn't look like someone removed a vent and or return line in the past.
(http://www.bnkk.net/k10/IMG_3068.JPG)
Post by: BBM3 on February 26, 2015, 09:41:15 pm
While I was waiting for FedEx to deliver my fuel sender today I fixed something.
The speedo and fuel gauge needles were faded and it bugged me.
Too much glare in the pictures from the cluster lens I polished the other day. Oh well.
Before
(http://www.bnkk.net/k10/IMG_3071.JPG)
Before....Cleaned and ready for paint
(http://www.bnkk.net/k10/IMG_3073.JPG)
After.... Needles look red but they are orange
(http://www.bnkk.net/k10/IMG_3075.JPG)
Post by: LTZ C20 on February 27, 2015, 01:41:44 am
Post by: BBM3 on February 28, 2015, 12:26:30 pm
Back to my fuel system today:
I have plans for my fuel system and I figured out what was going on with the sender vent output on the left tank.
The vent on the sender that I originally noted was open on closer inspection looks like it once had a vent cap like the ones on the diffs, transfer case and transmission. I attached a picture below. Based on the amount of dirt it looks like it has been there a long time. Maybe original?
PLAN ‘A’
What I have done is to instal a couple of feet of 5/16” fuel line to the sender vent, plugged it, zip tied it to the fuel line, and installed a vented gas cap.
I did this so I have future access to the vent line if I need without having to drop the tank again.
I’ll test this for a while and see if the vented gas cap works without spewing fuel and / or stinking.
PLAN ‘B’
Connect the left and right sender vents with a tee and run a line up the frame rail to the engine compartment.
Find a charcoal vapor canister and install a working evap. system.
The left end of this “Vent” was attached to the sender the end with the yellow clamp has what looks like the remains of a vent cap
(http://www.bnkk.net/k10/IMG_3076.JPG)
Post by: BBM3 on February 28, 2015, 02:01:23 pm
From another forum:
"Some trucks (over a certain GVW) came from the factory without vapor canisters and on those trucks GM simply installed a vent cap (like the ones used on transmissions/rearends) onto the vapor line fitting of the sending unit."
Time to drop the right hand tank and figure out why it is disconnected from the selector valve, fix whatever is wrong, and pick up two vent caps.
Wow! It has taken more internet searching time trying to figure out what is going on and why my truck has no sign of ever having an evap. system than actual wrenching time.
Post by: enaberif on February 28, 2015, 02:06:22 pm
So when we start working on them and doing a small job it turns into a medium job then a massive job because we want to do things right and fix it properly.
Post by: BBM3 on February 28, 2015, 02:41:44 pm
Post by: BBM3 on February 28, 2015, 03:33:33 pm
Another vented tank solution.
The "Rolling Molotov".
I remember seeing this solution often when I was much younger.
(http://www.bnkk.net/k10/IMG_3077.JPG)
Edit: Spelling
Post by: enaberif on February 28, 2015, 06:24:19 pm
Post by: LTZ C20 on March 01, 2015, 10:03:41 am
Post by: BBM3 on March 07, 2015, 05:06:47 pm
I finished installing my dual exhaust system today started the truck and the left side is blowing blue smoke.
I let it warm up to make sure it wasn't just valve guide seals but it still smoked.
I guess the truck was burning oil all along but it was being diluted by the right bank with the old single exhaust system.
Looks like I'll be pulling the motor and giving it a refresh.
I really hoped I was going to be able to avoid an engine rebuild.
Post by: enaberif on March 09, 2015, 07:56:52 am
Not a great day. :(
I finished installing my dual exhaust system today started the truck and the left side is blowing blue smoke.
I let it warm up to make sure it wasn't just valve guide seals but it still smoked.
I guess the truck was burning oil all along but it was being diluted by the right bank with the old single exhaust system.
Looks like I'll be pulling the motor and giving it a refresh.
I really hoped I was going to be able to avoid an engine rebuild.
Do a compression test before you do anything to get an idea of the motors condition.
Post by: BBM3 on March 09, 2015, 01:01:36 pm
I'll also look at the plugs.
Post by: BBM3 on March 12, 2015, 05:14:18 pm
All 8 spark plugs were dry and black, not black and oily. I am sure the carb is running rich.
All 8 cylinders were 90 PSI +/- 2 PSI.
Corrected for altitude (8000 feet) that would be about 115 PSI. Not great but not disastrous?
I ran the test with all of the spark plugs removed, disconnected the "Batt" terminal from the distributer, and held the throttle and choke wide open while cranking.
One thing I did wrong was I did not bring the engine up to operating temperature. It was 70F in my garage.
I put a couple tablespoons of oil in one cylinder just to see what would happen and I noted an increase of about 5 PSI.
Other than running the test again with the engine warm I'm not sure where to go next.
Post by: enaberif on March 12, 2015, 06:05:16 pm
I would prefer to see numbers in the 130-140 range for a healthy engine.
Post by: BBM3 on March 12, 2015, 06:32:09 pm
For sure this motor is well worn. But no knocks, starts instantly, idles smoothly, and runs fine under load.
So I just put the old plugs back in and started it.
No more blue smoke!
What the heck is / was going on?
A piston ring that somehow became stuck after I installed the new exhaust and suddenly fixed itself after I did the compression test?
Post by: enaberif on March 12, 2015, 06:44:27 pm
I agree.
For sure this motor is well worn. But no knocks, starts instantly, idles smoothly, and runs fine under load.
So I just put the old plugs back in and started it.
No more blue smoke!
What the heck is / was going on?
A piston ring that somehow became stuck after I installed the new exhaust and suddenly fixed itself after I did the compression test?
You put oil into the cylinders. That could have helped.
Post by: BBM3 on March 12, 2015, 07:50:24 pm
Maybe by chance that cleared things up (no pun intended). If so I need to buy a lottery ticket tomorrow.
Post by: MannyDantyla on March 12, 2015, 11:51:02 pm
There's oil additives that help with compression and oil consumption. I think they work by adding zinc to the mix which bonds to the cylinder walls and helps the compression rings seal a little better. A product called Engine Restore has really good reviews, look it up on Amazon.
Post by: BBM3 on March 13, 2015, 08:03:31 pm
Have you checked compression?
There's oil additives that help with compression and oil consumption. I think they work by adding zinc to the mix which bonds to the cylinder walls and helps the compression rings seal a little better. A product called Engine Restore has really good reviews, look it up on Amazon.
Yes I did a compression test. (Post #69 above)
I dumped a can of Engine Restore in today. I would never ever add any additive to a new motor but I figure I have nothing to loose with this well worn motor.
I was a click away from buying a new long block yesterday and I may do it after I finish some other projects.
Post by: FearNoMan78k10 on March 17, 2015, 08:35:18 pm
Post by: BBM3 on March 19, 2015, 09:46:19 am
(http://static.summitracing.com/global/images/prod/mediumlarge/nal-10067353_sn_ml.jpg)
It's only 195hp at the crank at sea level so I'm guessing about 150hp at 8000ft to the rear wheels and less to all four wheels.
Post by: BBM3 on March 19, 2015, 06:39:15 pm
In my seemingly never ending quest to hunt down and kill all oil, coolant, vacuum, air, and water leaks my new Vista-Pro radiator arrived today.
In the box was a note instructing me to call (800)755-2160 if the included installation hardware was missing. It was. I called and received a recorded message informing me that Vista-Pro had filed for bankruptcy December 2014. No option to speak with a live person.
Fortunately the supplier I purchased the radiator from will take it back no charge.
Unfortunately for now another leak remains alive and well.
Post by: LTZ C20 on March 19, 2015, 11:23:52 pm
Post by: roundhouse on March 20, 2015, 09:06:09 am
Compressions good. No knocks
I'd run it
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Post by: BBM3 on March 20, 2015, 05:52:01 pm
Well that is unfortunate.
Oh well. I'll get another. Plenty more to work on in the meantime.
Little smoke isn't gonna hurt anything
Compressions good. No knocks
I'd run it
That's exactly what I will do. It is running great.
Actually the smoke is completely gone.
Maybe it was just residual manufacturing oil in the dual exhaust kit. The pipes in the kit were really oily.
Speaking of exhaust.
I took the truck to my local muffler shop and had them bend me a new righthand mid pipe and install an equalizer.
There was no way I could use the mid pipe included in the kit without hitting the transfer case and crossmember.
The mufflers look misaligned in the picture. They are not. The lens on my phone distorted things a bit. The front wheels in the picture look like they have about -20 degrees of negative camber. They do not.
(http://www.bnkk.net/k10/exhaust.JPG)
Post by: BBM3 on March 24, 2015, 07:18:14 pm
I need to add part and labor costs. Labor will not be too bad since I have done most myself.
I really don't want to know but maybe I will get it done tonight.
Link to The List (http://www.bnkk.net/k10/1975 K10 Repair Cost.pdf)
Post by: enaberif on March 24, 2015, 07:57:01 pm
Here is a list of what I have done so far.
I need to add part and labor costs. Labor will not be too bad since I have done most myself.
I really don't want to know but maybe I will get it done tonight.
Link to The List (http://www.bnkk.net/k10/1975 K10 Repair Cost.pdf)
Don't do this you'll truly hate yourself. For all the money I put into getting the motor parts replaced in my truck I could have almost put a new engine into it. But I learned a lot and felt acomplished for it but now I have to go down yet another road that cost a bunch of money lol.
Keeping track of the money we spent on our hobbies is a sure fire to make us cry.
Post by: BBM3 on March 24, 2015, 08:35:44 pm
Thank You.
Post by: Irish_Alley on March 25, 2015, 12:13:41 am
this is why i dont keep track 8)
Keeping track of the money we spent on our hobbies is a sure fire to make us cry.
Post by: BBM3 on March 25, 2015, 01:36:52 am
this is why i dont keep track 8)
Keeping track of the money we spent on our hobbies is a sure fire to make us cry.
I understand.
I originally bought this truck with a plan to fix it, sell it, and buy another project.
As I get further into it I realize I found a true diamond in the rough that I should hang on to.
I guess that is how it we all get hooked.
Sill checking Craigslist, Auto Trader, etc. every morning.
Post by: LTZ C20 on March 25, 2015, 09:47:36 am
Post by: BBM3 on March 26, 2015, 03:22:52 pm
I would keep that truck if it was me, it's a great lookin truck.
Thanks for the complement. It's funny, I get thumbs up every time I take it out.
I took it for a drive today after replacing spark plugs, wires, radiator, fan clutch, and installing oil pressure and water temp gauges last weekend.
It is beginning to come together. I no longer fear having to hire a flatbed to take me home when I test drive it.
Still have some anoying slop in the steering. The rear drag link joint looks to be in need of replacement. I thought it was tight when I checked last. It is not. I'll replace both ends tomorrow and have it re-aligned. The only thing left that I can think of is ball joints but they are tight. I had the alignment shop check the ball joints when I had it aligned a couple of weeks ago and they confirmed they are good.
Post by: Displaced_Txn on March 26, 2015, 10:28:12 pm
Post by: LTZ C20 on March 27, 2015, 01:19:49 am
Post by: BBM3 on March 27, 2015, 04:14:57 pm
could do a xj shaft conversion on it also. still collapses in accident and gets rid of the rag joint from the steering.
In my case I don't think the rag joint is the problem. I replaced it and I can see there is no off center slop in it.
When I rotate the steering shaft by hand I can see slop in the rear pitman arm end and I am sure my frame is not cracked. I checked the frame carefully when I replaced the steering gear.
I will be replacing both pitman arm ends tonight or tomorrow. We'll see.
I agree eliminating the rag joint and replacing it with a u-joint would be a good thing especially if I were running big tires and off roading.
I have seen u-joint conversion kits that eliminate the need for a Jeep column swap.
Post by: BBM3 on March 28, 2015, 04:53:23 pm
While it is a little shocking too me how much I have spent so early into this project I also find it rewarding how far I have come in two months.
The truck is no longer terrifying to drive. I chose to drive it all around town running errands yesterday instead of my fair weather fun car.
The List with Cost (http://www.bnkk.net/k10/1975 K10 Repair Cost_1.pdf)
Getting the engine compartment sorted.
I really should touchup the engine paint and paint the exhaust manifolds now that the oil leaks have been fixed.
(http://bnkk.net/k10/IMG_3091.JPG)
(http://bnkk.net/k10/IMG_3092.JPG)
EDIT: Spelling Correction
Post by: BBM3 on March 30, 2015, 01:43:12 pm
Not pictured: OE valve covers.
(http://www.bnkk.net/k10/IMG_3096.JPG)
Post by: BBM3 on April 02, 2015, 06:29:15 pm
Everything electrical is now working.
It feels great to check off the last item on the electrical to-do list.
Post by: FearNoMan78k10 on April 02, 2015, 07:08:06 pm
Post by: BBM3 on April 02, 2015, 07:16:45 pm
Your project is way more impressive than my simple fixer upper
Post by: FearNoMan78k10 on April 02, 2015, 07:40:26 pm
Post by: BBM3 on April 02, 2015, 10:08:07 pm
Can't take a slammed C out in 2 feet of fresh snow and pull my neighbors 100K Porsche Cayenne out of a ditch.
I have a fair weather fun car that will not move in 0.001" of snow and I have a K10 when the going gets tough.
It's a Colorado way of thinking.
Yes, I think your truck build is impressive. At the rate you are going it will end up being an unstoppable mountain master.
Post by: Colby on April 02, 2015, 10:16:56 pm
Shawn
Post by: BBM3 on April 02, 2015, 10:33:12 pm
Currently it's a 2014 Furd.
(http://bnkk.net/2014gt/2014gt_1.jpg)
(http://bnkk.net/2014gt/2014gt_3.jpg)
Post by: Colby on April 02, 2015, 10:41:27 pm
Post by: BBM3 on April 02, 2015, 10:47:37 pm
Mustang?
Yup
Track Pack, Recaro's and some mild mods.
Post by: BBM3 on April 02, 2015, 10:53:19 pm
My former fun car CTS-V on track.
(http://www.bnkk.net/MyPictures/V_1.jpg)
Post by: Irish_Alley on April 02, 2015, 11:19:28 pm
i have my fun car its an 04 impala ss. its not as fast stock as the 5.0 but its fun to beat other cars with a grocery getter, and even eating a couple stangs on the way
Post by: Irish_Alley on April 02, 2015, 11:30:28 pm
(http://i333.photobucket.com/albums/m387/rebel_cowboy_83/Mobile%20Uploads/2015-03/IMG_20150327_090621956_zpsmbzrqus2.jpg) j/k
Post by: BBM3 on April 02, 2015, 11:31:36 pm
My CTS-V beat the snot out of many Goliath's at the track yet could be a mild mannered 4 door sedan when getting groceries or taking the kids to school.
Post by: BBM3 on April 02, 2015, 11:37:09 pm
my little girls reaction when i told her about how some guys drive mustangs
(http://i333.photobucket.com/albums/m387/rebel_cowboy_83/Mobile%20Uploads/2015-03/IMG_20150327_090621956_zpsmbzrqus2.jpg) j/k
Funny!!!!
I love cars and trucks. All of them.
I love anything with an internal combustion engine.
I am a die hard car guy born and raised in the Motor City.
Post by: Irish_Alley on April 02, 2015, 11:53:43 pm
Funny!!!!im right with you. i love all the older trucks and cars, but you have to stand for something and i chose my chevys lol. when you get down to it they share the same axles and some transmissions the only big thing is the engines besides that its all sheet metal sitting on the same axles and transmission
I love cars and trucks. All of them.
I love anything with an internal combustion engine.
I am a die hard car guy born and raised in the Motor City.
Post by: BBM3 on April 03, 2015, 12:29:15 am
Funny!!!!im right with you. i love all the older trucks and cars, but you have to stand for something and i chose my chevys lol. when you get down to it they share the same axles and some transmissions the only big thing is the engines besides that its all sheet metal sitting on the same axles and transmission
I love cars and trucks. All of them.
I love anything with an internal combustion engine.
I am a die hard car guy born and raised in the Motor City.
I worked as an engineer in Detroit for the "Big Three" and have a unique insight into the bowels of the beasts.
I have no brand loyalty to any. They all have their pros and cons.
BTW if you ever find your way to Colorado send me a PM. I'll be happy to give you an opportunity run a coupe laps at the track in a Mustang.
Post by: Irish_Alley on April 03, 2015, 12:35:49 am
Post by: BBM3 on April 03, 2015, 12:45:29 am
the farthest west i been is to Tennessee and that was just a couple years ago. besides that for some reason im normally not that far from the Atlantic ocean. i have to get out more
Yep you need to visit Colorado. You will not be disappointed.
Some call it "Gods Country" for good reason.
When you do, bring or rent a 4WD truck so you can see sights most never will.
Post by: Irish_Alley on April 03, 2015, 12:49:56 am
Post by: BBM3 on April 04, 2015, 03:34:45 pm
I am truly humbled.
When you work on trucks you don't mess around. Reminds me of musical chairs using engines.
Post by: Irish_Alley on April 04, 2015, 03:45:06 pm
have you read My '77 K-30 Monster Truck Build (http://forum.73-87chevytrucks.com/smforum/index.php?topic=12875.0)? im impressed of his work
Post by: BBM3 on April 04, 2015, 05:01:16 pm
So many talented builders here.
I replaced my bow tie grille emblem and prepared my junkyard rocker covers for paint today. Oh boy what an accomplishment.
You guys are inspiring me. Maybe tomorrow I'll swap engines and transmissions with my truck and car and while I'm at it make a new full box frame for the truck.
Forgot to mention, I got my windshield washers working yesterday.
Wish I could figure out what that big square button thing in the center of the steering wheel is suppose to do.
Post by: Irish_Alley on April 04, 2015, 05:05:13 pm
Post by: BBM3 on April 04, 2015, 05:23:37 pm
Guess I need to convert it to a Red Bull button.
Post by: Irish_Alley on April 04, 2015, 05:56:32 pm
Post by: BBM3 on April 04, 2015, 07:21:25 pm
Just laughing my @$$ off.
Thanks,
I needed that!
Post by: 87max on April 05, 2015, 10:43:36 am
Post by: BBM3 on April 06, 2015, 08:26:10 pm
A track day car with an LS motor, Brembo's, Tremec 6 speed manual, IRS, etc. etc.
But what's this?.... It's a Wagon, a true sleeper.
Post by: roundhouse on April 07, 2015, 06:36:19 am
In hindsight I should have ordered one instead of one of my two CTS-V sedans.things sure have changed
A track day car with an LS motor, Brembo's, Tremec 6 speed manual, IRS, etc. etc.
But what's this?.... It's a Wagon, a true sleeper.
You can buy a Cadillac station wagon....
With a manual transmission .....
But you can't get a regular Chevy pickup with a manual ....
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Post by: 87max on April 07, 2015, 06:38:16 pm
Post by: BBM3 on April 07, 2015, 11:03:31 pm
In hindsight I should have ordered one instead of one of my two CTS-V sedans.things sure have changed
A track day car with an LS motor, Brembo's, Tremec 6 speed manual, IRS, etc. etc.
But what's this?.... It's a Wagon, a true sleeper.
You can buy a Cadillac station wagon....
With a manual transmission .....
But you can't get a regular Chevy pickup with a manual ....
Not only that, the first generation CTS-V's could only be had with a 6 speed manual.
No option for an automatic.
Some say the 60's and early 70's where the good old days for American muscle cars.
I think "the good old days" are right now.
how bout a pic of those bad boys? there's not many vehicles that I see & say I wish I had that, however the wagon oh ya.
I never had a wagon.
I had two CTS-V sedans.
A picture of the last one in on page 7.
Post by: 87max on April 08, 2015, 04:31:46 pm
Post by: BBM3 on April 28, 2015, 04:09:35 pm
My OFF/HEATER/DEF lever was broken off. Not wanting to spend big bucks on a reproduction I found a rough one for $10 on CL yesterday that had a good lever.
While I was repairing mine I cut a new black lens backing to replace the original wrinkled one, polished the lens, and lubricated the cables.
Spending $10 and a couple hours time was a whole lot more rewarding than simply whipping out the Visa for a plastic reproduction.
Works and looks almost as new.
(http://www.bnkk.net/k10/heater.jpg)
(The "wrinkles" in the picture are a reflection of my shirt.)
Post by: LTZ C20 on April 28, 2015, 09:21:27 pm
Post by: cvbear on April 29, 2015, 07:08:29 am
Post by: BBM3 on April 29, 2015, 02:44:37 pm
Nice job.
Thanks LTZ,
I really didn't think it would turn out like it did. I originally only planned to get it functioning.
Once I had it on the bench the "While I'm at it" bug bit me.
Top Tip:
I dripped a bunch of Break Free CLP into the cables and they now operate almost effortlessly.
What did you make the black backing out of?
I used heavy black construction paper I found around the house.
I may replace it with adhesive backed vinyl at some point mainly because I cut the paper one too short.
Post by: LTZ C20 on April 29, 2015, 07:27:57 pm
Post by: BBM3 on June 12, 2015, 05:42:45 pm
Yesterday I replaced all 10 of the well used rubber front suspension bushings with Urethane.
Took it for a drive today and I think it is as close to as built as it can be.
The only things I haven't replaced on the front steering and suspension are ball joints and shocks both of which are good.
It runs and drives really well unlike the scary truck I bought this January.
One thing that still bothers me is the apparent difference in ride hight from front to rear.
The rear looks like it is sagging even though it is not.
When I measure from the center of the hubs to horizontal body line the rear is actually about 3/4" higher than the front.
I realize the front and rear wheel openings differ and that is what causes the illusion of the rear sagging. It just bugs me.
I may have my rear springs re-arched or buy new to add 1" - 1.5" of rear lift.
All that I have left to do under the truck is flush and bleed the brake fluid and rebuild the Z bar.
After that it is on to re-fitting the doors, fixing the impossibly difficult to operate manual widows and a ton of cosmetic items.
(http://www.bnkk.net/k10/IMG_3144.JPG)
Post by: LTZ C20 on June 14, 2015, 03:56:14 pm
Post by: BBM3 on June 23, 2015, 09:02:22 pm
The new Energy Suspension Poly's make a big difference.
I also discovered some of the fasteners were way under torque spec.
I replaced the fuel pump today and it seems to have solved the warm weather fuel starvation problem.
Brake fluid flush and bleed tomorrow.
Post by: enaberif on June 23, 2015, 09:27:13 pm
Post by: BBM3 on June 23, 2015, 11:01:39 pm
Park on a flat surface and measure ground to lip of wheel well to get an accurate measurement.
I believe the horizontal fore-aft character line is meant by design to be parallel with the ground plane and hub centers.
The front and rear wheel openings by design are not.
Regardless of how the suspension is set or body sits on the frame when I measure from the character line to the top center of the front and rear wheel openings I see the rear opening is ~7-1/8" and the front is ~5-3/4".
This is what causes my eye to see theses trucks sagging in the rear when they are actually level.
Maybe it's just me?
Edit: Spelling
Post by: BBM3 on August 26, 2015, 10:03:18 pm
I've had other cars in the fleet to work on recently and the fuel delivery problem I have been dealing with on the K10 frustrated me to the point of setting it aside.
In the past week finally I got back to work on the K10.
I decided to restart by reducing the fuel system to it's most basic components.
I removed the fuel selector valve, the frame rail mounted fuel filter, and replaced the rubber fuel line running from the LH tank to the RH frame mounted hard line.
Finally, Success! I drove the truck on the same circuit that always ended in sitting on the side of the road waiting for everything to cool off so I could limp back home.
Next I am going to drop the RH fuel tank, inspect the tank and sender, and replace the rubber section of fuel line. Re-install the fuel selector valve and hopefully be done with the fuel system?
Last weekend I flushed the cooling system (again). Forget the flush tee in the heater hose method. It didn't do much. This time I did it right. I back flushed the heater core, radiator, and engine block separately. I removed the thermostat, plugs in the lower block and repeated at least a dozen times until clear water in finally ran out clear. The crud that came out was other worldly.
Monday I replaced the cap and rotor and set the timing. The mighty 350 now starts and idles hot or cold as if it were fuel injected.
Yesterday I installed rear air shocks.
Today I installed new front shocks, drained the rear diff, installed a new gasket and refilled.
I think I have a bad bearing on the left side of the diff. I need to do some reading to figure out what is involved in replacing the bearings.
Tomorrow I will change the front diff oil and gasket and after putting it off forever, flush and bleed the brake system.
I need to remind myself that I bought this truck for the enjoyment and reward of saving it from further disrepair and an eventual date with the crusher.
Post by: enaberif on August 26, 2015, 10:50:45 pm
If you are doing the bearings you might as well do the seals and everything else too and look at our ujoints and ball joints.
Post by: BBM3 on August 26, 2015, 11:27:39 pm
When I had the cover off of the rear diff today I rotated the yoke back and forth expecting to see ring and pinion slop.
Ring and pinion mesh and wear look great.
What I did notice is what looked like play in the left carrier bearing. I was able to move the ring gear slightly cross car.
I think I remember reading that the LH carrier bearing is adjustable? I need to RTFM tonight.
Thanks for the reply and any further thoughts.
Post by: LTZ C20 on August 27, 2015, 01:08:11 am
Post by: BBM3 on August 27, 2015, 09:49:24 am
Post by: LTZ C20 on August 27, 2015, 09:55:03 am
Post by: BBM3 on August 30, 2015, 03:28:48 pm
Found this quote by Rich W in another thread:
Quote
Read the first three posts here: http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/distributor-tuning-theory-part-1-a-59033.html
A previous owner installed an Edelbrock 1406 on my '75 non-emission controlled truck and connected the vacuum advance to ported vacuum.
I just swapped to manifold vacuum. What a difference! Idle and throttle response are much improved and hopefully fuel economy will benefit too.
If you are reading this Rich, Thank you very much.
Post by: BBM3 on August 30, 2015, 06:19:13 pm
Cleaned, primed, and painted the LH interior door trim as a test. Very happy with the result.
It will be interesting to see how it holds up.
LH Door Trim Before: (Wrong color from a PO re-spray, chalky, and worn)
(http://www.bnkk.net/k10/lh1.jpg)
LH Door Trim After:
(http://www.bnkk.net/k10/lh2.jpg)
I have been trying to get the windows to roll up without having to use two hands.
I removed the LH window regulator, straightened the arms, pressed the pivot rivet tighter, cleaned, lubed, and reset the run channels. Afterwards the window rolled down fine but still took too much force to roll up.
Today I tried lubricating all of the moving parts as well as the seals on the run channels with dry silicone spray.
Instant success. While I was spraying the stuff around I hit every moving part in the door. Lock rods, hinges, and latches.
The LH door now works like new.
Don't know how long it will last but for now the stuff is magic.
Post by: LTZ C20 on August 30, 2015, 11:15:45 pm
Post by: BBM3 on August 31, 2015, 03:46:04 pm
With the newly painted door panel installed I clearly see the scope of the interior cosmetic work I have waiting.
Post by: enaberif on August 31, 2015, 04:11:08 pm
Thanks LTZ,
With the newly painted door panel installed I clearly see the scope of the interior cosmetic work I have waiting.
Interior is a SLIPPPPPERY slope my friend.. You have no idea what you started.
Post by: BBM3 on August 31, 2015, 06:32:05 pm
That is why I have been focusing on the underside of the truck and putting off the cosmetic.
As if I don't have enough to work on. I found another truck I am going to have a look at tomorrow.
Post by: 1967KaiserM715 on August 31, 2015, 07:30:37 pm
I believe I do.
That is why I have been focusing on the underside of the truck and putting off the cosmetic.
As if I don't have enough to work on. I found another truck I am going to have a look at tomorrow.
tread carefully... or not, I currently have 3 ongoing projects, and they all take a little bit of my time, but right now, I wouldn't have it any other way ;D
Post by: LTZ C20 on August 31, 2015, 07:43:36 pm
Post by: Irish_Alley on August 31, 2015, 07:59:49 pm
Post by: LTZ C20 on August 31, 2015, 09:30:07 pm
Post by: Irish_Alley on August 31, 2015, 09:45:53 pm
Post by: BBM3 on September 01, 2015, 01:15:46 am
A true one owner gem has a new home that sadly is not mine.
Post by: LTZ C20 on September 01, 2015, 11:52:01 pm
then youll find a crew cab extended cab and that will sound nicer lolYou mean like this?
(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/09/01/316378f324e3f432377e066a6798eae7.jpg)
I saw this truck over a year ago just up the street from my work, never saw it again, until today, saw it again and again it was just up street from work. At a different business than last time tho.
Post by: Irish_Alley on September 02, 2015, 12:30:58 am
(http://forum.73-87chevytrucks.com/smforum/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=22741.0;attach=18808;image)
Post by: Irish_Alley on September 02, 2015, 12:31:41 am
Post by: LTZ C20 on September 02, 2015, 09:49:08 am
Post by: BBM3 on September 02, 2015, 04:49:16 pm
I like all of these 73-87's but stock short bed 4X4's are the only ones that really deserve consideration.
Here comes the Flames....... ;)
Post by: Don5 on September 02, 2015, 09:04:53 pm
Post by: BBM3 on September 03, 2015, 12:59:09 pm
I love learning about all of the variants.
Post by: BBM3 on September 09, 2015, 08:33:02 pm
Both tanks now work and no more vapor lock caused by the old, soft, semi-collapsed rubber fuel lines.
In the end I had to drop both tanks, inspect, repair a ground wire, replace both sender o-rings, LH sender, all rubber fuel lines, and the selector valve.
(I'm really quick removing and reinstalling fuel tanks now).
So as of today I have every electrical and mechanical system working and all fluid leaks are history.
The truck is now safe and reliable and everything works. I have a couple of interior and exterior cosmetic items to finish.
Short of a full frame off restoration...I'm almost done.
Post by: LTZ C20 on September 10, 2015, 02:12:21 am
Post by: BBM3 on September 10, 2015, 10:02:59 am
Leaks are something I can't live with.
I have a transfer case weep that forms a single drop on the floor maybe once a week.
I'll probably replace the shaft seals at some point.
For now I'm looking forward to finishing up the interior and enjoying the truck.
Post by: LTZ C20 on September 10, 2015, 01:50:19 pm
Post by: BBM3 on September 21, 2015, 07:01:53 pm
I drove the truck hard for over 100 miles the other day. Far more than I have driven it since I bought it.
The NP205 transfer case weep is now a full on leak. A big one.
I have UV dye and a UV flashlight coming on Wednesday that I'm going to use before I start wrenching.
Hopefully just output shaft seals however I foresee this turning into removal and a full rebuild.
Post by: enaberif on September 21, 2015, 08:11:47 pm
So much for no leaks.
I drove the truck hard for over 100 miles the other day. Far more than I have driven it since I bought it.
The NP205 transfer case weep is now a full on leak. A big one.
I have UV dye and a UV flashlight coming on Wednesday that I'm going to use before I start wrenching.
Hopefully just output shaft seals however I foresee this turning into removal and a full rebuild.
Most of the time it is in fact the output shaft seals. The front one on my 203 is leaking like a stuffed pig lol
Post by: BBM3 on September 26, 2015, 03:25:39 pm
The final inch happened a bit faster than I would have liked.
For sure I will be renting or buying a transmission jack to reinstall it.
(http://www.bnkk.net/k10/np205.JPG)
Post by: LTZ C20 on September 26, 2015, 03:35:41 pm
Post by: BBM3 on September 26, 2015, 04:17:48 pm
I didn't pull it out as much as dropped it out. Thankfully the only damage was to the speedometer reducer and my ego.
It's not going back in without a helper, transmission jack, and tie down straps.
Post by: LTZ C20 on September 26, 2015, 07:53:48 pm
Post by: BBM3 on September 29, 2015, 05:26:38 pm
That thing is disgustingly dirty and gross lol definitely a good thing that you pulled it out.
This is better.
Ready for a fresh coat of paint and reassembly. I can't decide on color. Chevy orange, gloss black, or other?
(http://www.bnkk.net/k10/np205_2.jpg)
Post by: enaberif on September 29, 2015, 06:41:57 pm
Also I wouldn't be putting that back together without a twin stick setup.
Post by: bd on September 29, 2015, 08:31:29 pm
Post by: enaberif on September 29, 2015, 08:34:58 pm
http://dino246blog.blogspot.ca/2011/02/radiator-fan-motor-restoration-giving.html
Post by: LTZ C20 on September 29, 2015, 09:28:42 pm
Post by: Don5 on September 30, 2015, 01:23:55 am
Post by: BBM3 on September 30, 2015, 10:46:28 am
I decided to go semi-gloss black since I already have 2 cans.
http://duplicolor.com/product/engine-enamel-with-ceramic (http://duplicolor.com/product/engine-enamel-with-ceramic)
I use this paint on shotgun receivers I convert and it has proven to be really tough.
Black or Dark Gray.
Also I wouldn't be putting that back together without a twin stick setup.
I seriously considered a twin stick but I don't think I'll use it enough to justify the cost.
Did you clean that TC in your parts washer? It looks really nice. Ready for paint. I am going to have to take mine out and go through it someday. I am sure it could use a good rebuild.
Yes I used my HF parts washer with full strength Purple Power in the tub.
I did find the Purple Power oxidizes aluminum pretty quickly. Not a good idea to soak aluminum in the stuff.
I was surprised to find no real wear in my TC only a little on the shift forks. Even the yokes have virtually no seal wear and the new improved seals touch the yokes in a different place.
Post by: BBM3 on September 30, 2015, 04:31:14 pm
(http://www.bnkk.net/k10/np205_3.jpg)
(http://www.bnkk.net/k10/np205_4.jpg)
Post by: enaberif on September 30, 2015, 04:36:02 pm
Hope I can remember how to put it back together. :)
(http://www.bnkk.net/k10/np205_3.jpg)
(http://www.bnkk.net/k10/np205_4.jpg)
There is a REALLY good set of videos on youtube about the 205 assembly if you get stuck. Looks good though.
Post by: BBM3 on September 30, 2015, 05:03:17 pm
There is a REALLY good set of videos on youtube about the 205 assembly if you get stuck. Looks good though.
4 part YouTube series by GebBuilt? I have watched a number of times.
Post by: enaberif on September 30, 2015, 06:21:00 pm
Post by: BBM3 on September 30, 2015, 06:53:12 pm
I'm looking forward to his SM465 videos.
Post by: BBM3 on October 01, 2015, 02:10:16 am
I need a 1-5/16" 1/2" drive impact socket to finish the rear output shaft.
I could not find this oddball size locally so I ordered one a couple of days ago that should have been here today but is now "lost in transit".
Hopefully tomorrow.
Before:
(http://www.bnkk.net/k10/np205_4.jpg)
After:
(http://www.bnkk.net/k10/np205_5.jpg)
(http://www.bnkk.net/k10/np205_6.jpg)
Post by: Don5 on October 01, 2015, 12:20:48 pm
I was kidding. I have everything well organized.There is a REALLY good set of videos on youtube about the 205 assembly if you get stuck. Looks good though.
4 part YouTube series by GebBuilt? I have watched a number of times.
I am going to have to check these videos out. Looking really good BBM3. :) I do have a question. How long did it take to disassemble and reassemble the 205?
Post by: LTZ C20 on October 01, 2015, 07:49:37 pm
Post by: BBM3 on October 02, 2015, 07:35:44 pm
I am going to have to check these videos out. Looking really good BBM3. :) I do have a question. How long did it take to disassemble and reassemble the 205?
When you watch the videos he starts with a clean NP205 and he takes about about an hour to disassemble and reassemble excluding the time he takes to explain the details.
It took me an hour just to scrape the crud off before I even began disassembly.
I have 6+ hours into mine out of the truck including scraping, disassembly, cleaning, masking, painting, and reassembly.
Good news. A complete gasket and seal kit costs ~ $20 shipped.
Bad news. Parts washer, Transmission jack, and Beer = added $$$.
Still saved me money over buying a rebuilt unit and other than the beer.... I have the parts washer and transmission jack for use with other projects.
Post by: BBM3 on October 02, 2015, 07:40:52 pm
Looks waaaaaay better
Thanks LTZ C20,
Looks are secondary to function.
Post by: LTZ C20 on October 02, 2015, 07:43:44 pm
True, unless it's a regularly visible item, then they are equal. I won't do something that looks crappy, I have higher standards lol.Looks waaaaaay better
Thanks LTZ C20,
Looks are secondary to function.
Post by: BBM3 on October 02, 2015, 08:01:55 pm
At this rate a frame off restoration is beginning to feel justifiable.
Post by: 1967KaiserM715 on October 02, 2015, 08:28:54 pm
Everything with this truck seems to be "While I'm at it"
At this rate a frame off restoration is beginning to feel justifiable.
everything happens that way, my truck was supposed to be a paint the frame, patch the floor, throw in a tranny, drive it...2 months later and I have it completely stripped down, doing floor repair and media blasting.
Post by: BBM3 on October 05, 2015, 07:19:56 pm
everything happens that way, my truck was supposed to be a paint the frame, patch the floor, throw in a tranny, drive it...2 months later and I have it completely stripped down, doing floor repair and media blasting.
In the end I'm sure you and your truck will be better for your efforts.
I had planned to reinstall the transfer case today until I discovered I don't have the correct seal for the transmission to transfer case adapter. I called the supplier of the kits I bought for the SM465 and NP205 and was informed they do not include the seal because of the many differences in adapters. I measured the ID and OD of the original seal and they are sending me one that should arrive Wednesday.
A minor setback. I'll spend the waiting time cleaning and painting the crusty cross members and skid plate, replace the transmission mounts, and drain, inspect, and refill the front differential.
Post by: bd on October 05, 2015, 09:40:59 pm
Everything with this truck seems to be "While I'm at it"
At this rate a frame off restoration is beginning to feel justifiable.
Mine started that way too. "Fix a few oil leaks" festooned into an all-forged rotating assembly, TriArmor bearings, retro-roller cam & rev kit, billet timing cover, Gold Race rockers, AFR 195 heads, Melling billet pump, extensive 700R4 upgrades.... The list waxes quite lengthy and never really seems to approach its end. And, then (of course)... there are the frame repairs, upgrading all of the interior amenities, the crucial systems warning platform (in the final breadboard stage of development), revamping the OE wiring with "custom" options. Never-to-mention proposed body and paint work, which exist only in some nebulous dimension of my thinking at the moment. The list of things to do is self-perpetuating and sometimes seems alive with its own creative imagination. Sometimes, I swear, the list grows overnight with items I didn't put there. Poltergeist! lol
All of which go to prove that a true enthusiast's project vehicles are never completed, just rewarding in their promise.
It's good to see the top notch work you're producing. ...gives us novices motivation to keep plugging away while somehow justifying our endeavors to know we aren't alone, and provides some hope of someday finishing that which we've begun. Carry on!
Post by: BBM3 on October 05, 2015, 11:26:27 pm
It's good to see the top notch work you're producing. ...gives us novices motivation to keep plugging away while somehow justifying our endeavors to know we aren't alone, and provides some hope of someday finishing that which we've begun. Carry on!
"Novices"?
I have learned more from you and others here than I can ever possibly give enough thanks for.
"Top notch work"? I am embarrassed and truly humbled.
"the crucial systems warning platform (in the final breadboard stage of development)"
More info please!
Post by: bd on October 06, 2015, 09:02:50 pm
"Top notch work"? I am embarrassed and truly humbled.
No need for either. Your product and the manner in which you express yourself speak for themselves.
"the crucial systems warning platform (in the final breadboard stage of development)"
More info please!
I'm developing a warning/shutdown system that integrates with factory and aftermarket gauges & senders. The circuit design is mostly complete save for a few amendments and circuit refinements. Still need to prove functionality of the charging system monitor, layout the ICs on the PCB, and build the harness that connects the module to the cluster.
Post by: LTZ C20 on October 07, 2015, 02:19:43 pm
BD, like an engine failsafe system to shut down the engine incase of overheat, ignition loss, oil pressure loss or some kind of terminal engine failure?"Top notch work"? I am embarrassed and truly humbled.
No need for either. Your product and the manner in which you express yourself speak for themselves."the crucial systems warning platform (in the final breadboard stage of development)"
More info please!
I'm developing a warning/shutdown system that integrates with factory and aftermarket gauges & senders. The circuit design is mostly complete save for a few amendments and circuit refinements. Still need to prove functionality of the charging system monitor, layout the ICs on the PCB, and build the harness that connects the module to the cluster.
Post by: BBM3 on October 07, 2015, 02:29:02 pm
Interesting project.
When you say shutdown are you planing to kill the engine if an input signal is out of whack?
I have designed and built a number ATMega based projects. Everything from simple wireless remote temperature and humidity alarm / monitoring to an IP to IR controller that gives my disabled wife control over all of the functions of our AV equipment in the family room with her iPad.
I have become pretty good at hardware design and etching my own circuit boards at home. My C+ skills are still lacking.
Post by: BBM3 on October 07, 2015, 02:30:26 pm
Post by: bd on October 07, 2015, 07:45:27 pm
Post by: LTZ C20 on October 08, 2015, 04:20:03 pm
Post by: AZ87V10 on October 08, 2015, 07:10:36 pm
Post by: LTZ C20 on October 08, 2015, 09:30:56 pm
I have an 87 with dual tanks and I can confirm that they are both factory original and both are steel! Although the left side has a crack just below the filler neck nipple, so it leaks gas when the tank is completely full. As far as I know, they are baffled since my needle doesn't bounce too much with gas slosh.Well that's good to know. Mine depending on how abrupt the motion of the ocean can bounce as little as 1/8 tank or almost 1/2. This really is a topic for another time tho. BBM3, you can have your thread back lol.
Post by: BBM3 on October 09, 2015, 04:56:25 pm
Well that's good to know. Mine depending on how abrupt the motion of the ocean can bounce as little as 1/8 tank or almost 1/2. This really is a topic for another time tho.
BBM3, you can have your thread back lol.
I have an idea how to damp the fuel gauge. I'll get on it ASAP.
This is good stuff keep it going.
Post by: LTZ C20 on October 09, 2015, 05:30:40 pm
What are you thinking there? If you don't mind sharing?Well that's good to know. Mine depending on how abrupt the motion of the ocean can bounce as little as 1/8 tank or almost 1/2. This really is a topic for another time tho.
BBM3, you can have your thread back lol.
I have an idea how to damp the fuel gauge. I'll get on it ASAP.
This is good stuff keep it going.
Post by: BBM3 on October 09, 2015, 06:38:30 pm
At the same time it would be possible to accurately calibrate indicated full and empty.
Post by: LTZ C20 on October 09, 2015, 08:23:26 pm
Use a micro controller that samples the sawtooth analog output from the fuel level sender(s) and output a smoothed, averaged, slightly delayed output to the fuel gauge.I'm interested because right now dakota digital is looking really nice. I wanna little modern update to the cluster anyway.
At the same time it would be possible to accurately calibrate indicated full and empty.
Post by: BBM3 on October 09, 2015, 09:36:14 pm
You peaked my interest in simply attenuating the slosh effect of non baffled fuel tanks.
Post by: BBM3 on October 10, 2015, 06:21:18 pm
I accomplished nothing on the truck today.
For anyone following I may have some more exciting news tomorrow.
Or not.
Post by: LTZ C20 on October 10, 2015, 09:29:13 pm
Post by: BBM3 on October 11, 2015, 08:56:02 pm
I did flog the Mustang and nearly finished destroying the rear tires this morning and later watched the Broncos Defense win another game.
Not a bad day.
Post by: BBM3 on October 23, 2015, 05:40:30 pm
I have the transfer case installed without drama.
I built a quickie platform from scrap wood for my transmission jack to hold the transfer case in position.
Kind of like doing woodworking projects. Sometimes I spend more time building jigs and setting up than making the actual cuts.
Feeling like a wimp knowing how many people do this on their back without the aide of a vehicle lift and transmission jack.
I have a few more things to finish today and the K10 will be back on the road tomorrow.
(http://www.bnkk.net/k10/TC1.JPG)
(http://www.bnkk.net/k10/TC2.JPG)
Post by: LTZ C20 on October 23, 2015, 08:01:37 pm
Post by: BBM3 on October 23, 2015, 10:57:57 pm
Almost done.
Check that.
Much more to be done.
Post by: BBM3 on October 26, 2015, 08:54:54 pm
I just returned from a test drive and it appears the leaks have been eliminated and the NP205 shifts way better.
I destroyed the speedometer reducer when I dropped the t-case so I eliminated it and screwed the speedo cable directly into the t-case.
Lo and behold my speedo is now off by only ~2mph from ~12mph and the needle no longer bounces. Bonus!
While driving around with a huge smile on my face I reflected on how far my truck has come since I bought it 10 months ago.
The truck feels really solid and is now nearly squeak, rattle, and vibration free.
Post by: LTZ C20 on October 26, 2015, 09:22:42 pm
Post by: bd on October 26, 2015, 09:49:01 pm
Post by: BBM3 on October 26, 2015, 11:21:59 pm
You guys and others here inspire me.
From the onset my primary goal has been to make the truck safe and reliable.
I feel I have accomplished that.
Now my long list of items on the bottom of my too do list are finally percolating to the top.
Post by: LTZ C20 on October 27, 2015, 01:12:05 am
Post by: BBM3 on October 28, 2015, 10:48:29 pm
When I lived in Southwest Florida I had no need or desire for a 4WD truck.
Even with the additional 4WD parts it remains a very basic vehicle and satisfyingly simple to work on.
I am hoping to get it out on some mountain trails soon and deep snowfalls this winter.
Post by: Don5 on October 28, 2015, 11:40:13 pm
Post by: BBM3 on November 17, 2015, 04:44:47 pm
Took the truck out to test 4WD. The diffs and axles were plowing but I made it through. All wheel drive unibody SUV's were stuck everywhere.
A little dicey going up steep hills. Locking or limited slip diffs and better tires would be good but for now I am pleased.
Post by: BBM3 on December 14, 2015, 06:01:17 pm
This time out I found I have a limited slip rear end. (Embarrassing, but I forgot to take note when I had the diff. cover off).
Does nice 2WD two track doughnuts in the snow.
I gave my rebuilt transfer case a full workout this time also. 4 wheel low is certainly low!
While I was out I drove by many abandoned AWD vehicles stuffed in ditches.
I have owned modern 4WD and AWD vehicles but something about this old truck makes me feel invincible in the snow and ice.
A winter storm watch is forecast for tonight and tomorrow. I know what vehicle I'll be driving tomorrow.
Post by: bd on December 14, 2015, 06:39:27 pm
Post by: BBM3 on December 14, 2015, 07:44:19 pm
I had a love / hate relationship with a brand new Range Rover a couple of years ago. (More hate than love).
These old trucks are tough, bare bones, and no excuses required.
Post by: LTZ C20 on December 14, 2015, 08:22:46 pm
Post by: Don5 on December 14, 2015, 08:59:42 pm
Post by: BBM3 on December 14, 2015, 09:54:11 pm
Heck they have GVWR, towing, and HP/TQ capacities, all wrapped up in a plush, hand stiched leather, isolation chamber cab that was unimaginable 40 years ago.
Post by: LTZ C20 on December 15, 2015, 02:14:08 pm
That goes both ways tho, what has moved from steel to plastic has also increased in fuel economy, hp/tq, like Don5 said, but now they are also packed with leading technology and features. 45 years ago trucks were never fancy, the new ones are quiet, comfy, they look good and have 800+ ft lbs of torque and over 20,000 lbs payload ability.
Post by: enaberif on December 15, 2015, 05:07:26 pm
On old saying comes to mind, "They don't build em like they used too anymore"
That goes both ways tho, what has moved from steel to plastic has also increased in fuel economy, hp/tq, like Don5 said, but now they are also packed with leading technology and features. 45 years ago trucks were never fancy, the new ones are quiet, comfy, they look good and have 800+ ft lbs of torque and over 20,000 lbs payload ability.
and only last 4 years not 40
Post by: Irish_Alley on December 18, 2015, 07:37:17 am
thats it, most times you see one broken down before someone finishes paying it off.On old saying comes to mind, "They don't build em like they used too anymore"
That goes both ways tho, what has moved from steel to plastic has also increased in fuel economy, hp/tq, like Don5 said, but now they are also packed with leading technology and features. 45 years ago trucks were never fancy, the new ones are quiet, comfy, they look good and have 800+ ft lbs of torque and over 20,000 lbs payload ability.
and only last 4 years not 40
but dont let steel sled fool you, they go great in the snow but they dont stop great. most people you see in the ditch think they know how to drive and their 4x4 makes them invincible.
Post by: philo_beddoe on December 18, 2015, 10:51:27 pm
Haha, i'm lookin good at about 10 yards, any closer and here comes the cancer.Haha join the club. Looks amazing from 100 feet away. 10 inches and it's a paint job only a momma could love. Lol
I was being generous at 10 feet. It looks much better 20+
Post by: BBM3 on December 29, 2015, 04:29:59 pm
Sorry for the cross post I just wanted to add some decent pictures in this thread of what I have been working on for the past 11 months.
(http://www.bnkk.net/k10/75k10_1sm.jpg)
(http://www.bnkk.net/k10/75k10_2sm.jpg)
Post by: LTZ C20 on December 29, 2015, 07:45:22 pm
Ps, I have the same grille hanging on the wall in my bedroom. Redneck, I think so maybe a just a little bit.
Post by: BBM3 on December 29, 2015, 08:58:22 pm
Thanks for following.
I think it is time to summit Pikes Peak.
It is not a big deal in a modern vehicle especially since the road is now fully paved.
Hopefully I will be posting pictures of my truck at 14,000 feet in the next few days.
Post by: bd on December 29, 2015, 09:37:55 pm
Post by: philo_beddoe on December 29, 2015, 10:17:32 pm
Post by: LTZ C20 on December 29, 2015, 10:50:10 pm
Post by: BBM3 on December 30, 2015, 09:39:49 am
Ahh-ha!! So there she is.... Looks nice! And, ready to take you wherever you want to go!
Thanks
I realized yesterday that I have posted a lot of pictures of broken, new, and repaired parts but no good pictures of the whole truck.
Post by: BBM3 on December 30, 2015, 09:41:03 am
Truck looks tight, nice and clean. Good job!
Thanks you have a nice one too.
Post by: BBM3 on December 30, 2015, 09:45:31 am
What is the color code of that silver?
The sticker in the glovebox says RPO 117L 17 Saratoga Silver
The truck has been repainted (poorly) It is a bit darker than the original paint color.
Post by: LTZ C20 on December 30, 2015, 10:09:48 am
Post by: FearNoMan78k10 on January 18, 2016, 02:31:22 pm
Post by: BBM3 on January 22, 2016, 04:09:55 pm
Your build has come such a long way since you bought this truck.... Seriously looks great ! And love the detail you have put into it.... Very nice build and you've made a ton of progress
Thanks,
One step at a time.
Gotta get yours on the road. My offer stands.
Post by: BBM3 on January 22, 2016, 05:02:54 pm
I found my freshly rebuilt transfer case is leaking.
Fortunately it is the rear output shaft seal which I can replace without removing the transfer case again.
Oh well, it will only take some time and a couple of dollars to fix and this time I will double check the ID of the seal and OD of the yoke before I press the new seal in.
Post by: FearNoMan78k10 on January 22, 2016, 08:47:03 pm
Sounds good to me thankyou . Yeah no kidding, I would flip out if it was on the road.... It's a dream, seems like it is a fairy tale,.. Just let me know when works for you.... Truck battery is dead... Thought of taking my dodge battery out there and swapping them out to get the truck running... Let me know. All I need to get is some fuses, and a thicker long wire to replace fuse able link to get it running...
Post by: roundhouse on January 23, 2016, 06:07:43 am
A little late regarding your shutdown system. I remember 18 wheelers having them in the 70s
All mechanical system with a buzzer and light for temp and another buzzer and light for oil pressure
The oil pressure had a mechanical switch that operated at about 10 psi with a spring loaded over ride that you had to hold down during cranking until the pressure came up
Took two hands to start it
One on the starter button and the other on the oil pressure over ride button
The 87 and newer TBIs had an oil pressure switch that ran the fuel pump somehow
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Post by: Greybeard on January 23, 2016, 03:31:00 pm
Holy thread jack!
I like all of these 73-87's but stock short bed 4X4's are the only ones that really deserve consideration.
Here comes the Flames....... ;)
As old as this post is I couldn't pass this one up....I so totally agree, short beds are all there is! Smooth riding and agile as a jeep. They look better IMHO. More equal front to rear.
I think you wealthy folks have all the fun LOL. A lift in the garage! I have a gravel dooryard to work on. :( A transmission jack! I have a broken floor jack that does not hold pressure. To say I'm just a little jealous is an understatement. hahaha
I have always wondered how some folks (like you) can work on a dirty, oily rig and never get the floor or the benches dirty? Of course I was never one to be a meticulous cleaner after I was done. I worked in a diesel shop in a construction company for 23 years, no way to keep it that clean even if trying. Time is money and cleaning is not profitable beyond preventing injury. What a boss I had! We steam cleaned the floors about once a year, with an ice chipper to peel up the heavy stuff. :-\
When I lived in Colorado I liked the Holy Cross trail, Red and White mountain, Wolf Creek pass trails, the trails around Marble and Independence pass, and some others. That was nearly three decades ago however. Today all those might be closed to the public.
That is an awesome truck for what you paid for it! That money here would have gotten a rotten plow truck with no sheetmetal left intact.
Post by: BBM3 on January 23, 2016, 06:30:39 pm
Jeez that has got to be frustrating ..... And you just got that installed too, all that hard work.... Well hopefully you can have it fixed up in a jiffy and like new again... What do you think caused it?
Sounds good to me thankyou . Yeah no kidding, I would flip out if it was on the road.... It's a dream, seems like it is a fairy tale,.. Just let me know when works for you.... Truck battery is dead... Thought of taking my dodge battery out there and swapping them out to get the truck running... Let me know. All I need to get is some fuses, and a thicker long wire to replace fuse able link to get it running...
PM Sent.
Post by: BBM3 on January 23, 2016, 06:32:39 pm
Nice truck
A little late regarding your shutdown system. I remember 18 wheelers having them in the 70s
All mechanical system with a buzzer and light for temp and another buzzer and light for oil pressure
The oil pressure had a mechanical switch that operated at about 10 psi with a spring loaded over ride that you had to hold down during cranking until the pressure came up
Took two hands to start it
One on the starter button and the other on the oil pressure over ride button
The 87 and newer TBIs had an oil pressure switch that ran the fuel pump somehow
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Actually it is member "bd" that is working on a shutdown system.
Post by: BBM3 on January 23, 2016, 07:46:28 pm
I think you wealthy folks have all the fun LOL. A lift in the garage! I have a gravel dooryard to work on. :( A transmission jack! I have a broken floor jack that does not hold pressure. To say I'm just a little jealous is an understatement. hahaha
I understand working on your back and I totally respect you for doing so. I know. I have done the same most of my life.
Quote
I have always wondered how some folks (like you) can work on a dirty, oily rig and never get the floor or the benches dirty? Of course I was never one to be a meticulous cleaner after I was done. I worked in a diesel shop in a construction company for 23 years, no way to keep it that clean even if trying. Time is money and cleaning is not profitable beyond preventing injury. What a boss I had! We steam cleaned the floors about once a year, with an ice chipper to peel up the heavy stuff. :-\
With all due respect I am a hard working guy and not afraid of getting dirty.
I know how to use a shovel to dig a flat bottom ditch. Swing a 22 oz framing hammer to frame a house, use a wrench to fix a car, and a hundred+ other dirty jobs many people wouldn't consider doing for themselves.
Quote
That is an awesome truck for what you paid for it! That money here would have gotten a rotten plow truck with no sheetmetal left intact.
Thanks for the compliment RE: my truck. Buying it did not come easy. I spent a lot of time finding and negotiating for the right one.
Post by: frotosride on January 23, 2016, 09:37:10 pm
Post by: BBM3 on January 23, 2016, 10:27:31 pm
If you think that the invincible feeling is good now put a small lift on it and you will truly be looking down on all those over priced emissions ridden ditch fillers!
"Over priced emissions ridden ditch fillers"
Thanks for the laugh!
And thank you for your service!
Post by: LTZ C20 on January 24, 2016, 12:02:28 am
Post by: Greybeard on January 24, 2016, 12:22:40 am
I think you wealthy folks have all the fun LOL. A lift in the garage! I have a gravel dooryard to work on. :( A transmission jack! I have a broken floor jack that does not hold pressure. To say I'm just a little jealous is an understatement. hahaha
I understand working on your back and I totally respect you for doing so. I know. I have done the same most of my life.QuoteI have always wondered how some folks (like you) can work on a dirty, oily rig and never get the floor or the benches dirty? Of course I was never one to be a meticulous cleaner after I was done. I worked in a diesel shop in a construction company for 23 years, no way to keep it that clean even if trying. Time is money and cleaning is not profitable beyond preventing injury. What a boss I had! We steam cleaned the floors about once a year, with an ice chipper to peel up the heavy stuff. :-\
With all due respect I am a hard working guy and not afraid of getting dirty.
I know how to use a shovel to dig a flat bottom ditch. Swing a 22 oz framing hammer to frame a house, use a wrench to fix a car, and a hundred+ other dirty jobs many people wouldn't consider doing for themselves.QuoteThat is an awesome truck for what you paid for it! That money here would have gotten a rotten plow truck with no sheetmetal left intact.
Thanks for the compliment RE: my truck. Buying it did not come easy. I spent a lot of time finding and negotiating for the right one.
Sorry I came off sounding like like I did, I respect what you have done, and what it took to get there. I am a month or so from getting my MBA degree with a minor in project management. At the ripe old age of sixty I don't know if that will do anything for me or not. It was my choice to do things the way I have. I've lived on this farm for the last 28 years, for 23 of those years I had the shop at work to do my projects in. That job ended when the company closed it's doors- so I started college.
I really wasn't meaning to sound mean.
Post by: frotosride on January 24, 2016, 08:23:55 am
Anytime in both instances...it's not easy but I do my best.If you think that the invincible feeling is good now put a small lift on it and you will truly be looking down on all those over priced emissions ridden ditch fillers!
"Over priced emissions ridden ditch fillers"
Thanks for the laugh!
And thank you for your service!
Oh yea, and I also love serving this country of ours.
Post by: BBM3 on January 24, 2016, 05:55:30 pm
Congratulations on your MBA. I have a ton of resect for you.
Not many people our age have the drive to continue our education.
Project Management was my gig before retirement. Not a day passes that I don't miss it.
Post by: Greybeard on January 24, 2016, 06:15:02 pm
Post by: BBM3 on January 24, 2016, 08:16:25 pm
Oh yea, and I also love serving this country of ours.
I sleep well at night knowing that you, my son in law, and all of our armed forces have our backs.
Thank you again.
Post by: BBM3 on January 28, 2016, 02:55:54 pm
I replaced the faded rear hubcap 4X4 inserts.
Love that groovy 1970's yellow and orange.
(http://www.bnkk.net/k10/hubcap.jpg)
Post by: BBM3 on January 28, 2016, 06:14:09 pm
I replaced the rock hard, rotted and leaking rubber fill and vent tubes on the righthand fuel tank.
I can now fill both tanks with 16 gallons of 85 octane dead dinosaur stuff.
Post by: LTZ C20 on January 29, 2016, 09:15:18 am
Post by: brennent on January 30, 2016, 05:49:10 pm
Post by: BBM3 on January 31, 2016, 03:03:26 pm
Your paint restoration turned out great. Glad to hear you are going to keep it original; your truck deserves it.
Just for fun maybe remove one of the period correct running boards just to see if you prefer the look without.
Post by: brennent on January 31, 2016, 07:20:30 pm
You have a very nice looking truck.I tried to remove them, took out all the nuts and bolts come to find out they're welded on... One day i would like to get them off.
Your paint restoration turned out great. Glad to hear you are going to keep it original; your truck deserves it.
Just for fun maybe remove one of the period correct running boards just to see if you prefer the look without.
Post by: BBM3 on January 31, 2016, 08:51:10 pm
I tried to remove them, took out all the nuts and bolts come to find out they're welded on... One day i would like to get them off.
Too be clear I'm not being critical they look the part, period correct, and solid.
Post by: BBM3 on February 02, 2016, 06:58:04 pm
Last night my Son stuffed his car into a 4 foot deep ditch at the end of our driveway.
I tried pulling it out with our tractor but only succeeded in dragging the front end around, breaking my tow strap and making things worse.
My Son called a number of wrecker services and none were able to make it here until tomorrow.
So today I brought out the big guns, our ’75 K10.
This morning I drove the K10 through a blinding blizzard and deep snow to Home Depot to pickup a high strength recovery chain.
With the new chain attached to the K10, my Son’s car, some rocking, and wheel spin we extracted his car.
Our K10 has earned it’s keep.
Now I want to replace the open differentials with limited slip or locking units.
Post by: LTZ C20 on February 02, 2016, 08:41:49 pm
Post by: BBM3 on February 03, 2016, 03:51:06 pm
Not the first or the last time a square has or will save the day.
You have that right I'm sure.
This was the first time I put my truck to work and it passed.
The money we saved not paying for a tow truck is going to the "new front and rear diffs fund".
My only regret is that I didn't use my GoPro to capture the event.
Post by: bd on February 03, 2016, 04:38:34 pm
Now I want to replace the open differentials with limited slip or locking units.
Use a limited slip for the rear and ARB air locker for the front. It will maintain good street manners, while unchaining a beast when it suits.
Post by: BBM3 on February 03, 2016, 06:10:33 pm
Now I want to replace the open differentials with limited slip or locking units.
Use a limited slip for the rear and ARB air locker for the front. It will maintain good street manners, while unchaining a beast when it suits.
Thank you for that!
I didn't want to start another "Help Me Choose" thread but suggestions will be appreciated.
I have 4:11 gears currently.
Post by: brennent on February 03, 2016, 07:01:04 pm
As I continue to procrastinate replacing the transfer case rear output shaft seal and dozens of other really important things.....
I replaced the faded rear hubcap 4X4 inserts.
Love that groovy 1970's yellow and orange.
(http://www.bnkk.net/k10/hubcap.jpg)
How do you like those wranglers? I was looking into getting a set for my truck? and if you dont mind me asking how much did you pay for them?
Post by: BBM3 on February 03, 2016, 09:57:06 pm
No complaints.
Post by: BBM3 on February 10, 2016, 06:30:12 pm
I last week in the snow I noticed the front end of my truck is binding? bucking? (not sure the term) while turning in 4WD.
Today I am in the process of replacing the front axle u-joints assuming that was the cause.
Unfortunately when I removed the left axle I found an old but tight u-joint rather than the loose u-joint I was expecting.
So when I finish I will have two new Spicer 5-760x front axle u-joints but most likely the problem will persist.
In hindsight I should have lifted the front tires, turned the steering lock to lock, and spun the tires by hand before tearing the front axles apart.
In foresight I now have a hands-on understanding of the elegantly simple inner workings of the Dana 44.
Post by: blazer74 on February 10, 2016, 07:24:43 pm
When your driving on pavement you should be in the H position not H loc on the transfer case.
The sensation you are encountering is normal is H .
If in H loc you will really feel the binding.
Does it have locking hubs on the front axle?
Post by: enaberif on February 10, 2016, 07:25:32 pm
Post by: BBM3 on February 10, 2016, 07:35:07 pm
That whole binding/bucking will partially go away after changing the ujoints but you probably also have a NP203 which won't help either.
Thanks for the reply.
I have an NP205.
I noticed some binding in 2WD with the hubs locked also.
The truck turns fine with the hubs unlocked in 2WD.
Post by: BBM3 on February 10, 2016, 07:40:08 pm
If it's automatic trans and is unmolested you have full time 203 transfer case. You have constant 4x4 engaged all the time.
When your driving on pavement you should be in the H position not H loc on the transfer case.
The sensation you are encountering is normal is H .
If in H loc you will really feel the binding.
Does it have locking hubs on the front axle?
Thanks for the reply.
I have an SM465 and NP205 with manual locking hubs
The problem happened in deep snow. I would never lock the hubs and use 4WD on dry pavement.
Post by: Greybeard on February 10, 2016, 08:36:59 pm
Post by: BBM3 on February 10, 2016, 09:08:21 pm
Do both front wheels pull equally in the snow going straight? Not supposed to in normal conditions. Easy enough to peek inside the housing to see if anything unusual has been done to the diff.
Brilliant idea taking the diff cover off and rotating the entire assembly from end to end while I have everything else exposed.
Thanks!
Post by: Greybeard on February 10, 2016, 11:01:43 pm
By the way, do a close double check on the tire pressures and sizes. Any major discrepancies between front and rear will cause this bucking. If the t-case does not want to shift out of four wheel easily, it is definitely binding up. The 205 does not like any type of traction in four wheel drive, meaning if one wheel on each axle is not free to slip during a turn, it will buck. And front to rear binding (inside the t-case) is due to turning or different sized rolling radius's front to rear. I found that out myself early in my 4-wheeling days when I had a flat that wasn't fixable with my 36 inchers. A buddy had two 36 inchers of a different brand I put on till I could afford new tires. It snowed, I put it in four hi and promptly lost the ability to move forwards without the truck seemly jumping off the ground every five feet and steering becoming erratic. The mismatch in size was about a 1/2". I would bet that a smaller mismatch would still cause t-case binding, just to a lesser degree.
Post by: frotosride on February 11, 2016, 11:45:55 am
Post by: BBM3 on February 11, 2016, 12:34:15 pm
Some more background:
I have OE size 235/75R-15 tires and pressures are to spec.
I rebuilt the transferase last year and it shifts smooth as butter. When I had it reassembled on the bench without the detent balls and springs installed I was able to shift it throughout the full range with two fingers.
The driveshaft u-joints are all good.
I have not taken the right axle apart yet but I have gently applied some pressure to it with a pry bar and it seems tight.
Regardless, I am replacing it after I finish the left side.
I don't think you have any actual issue. What you are experiencing is under steer due to the front tires trying to pull. This is why it only happens at and or close to full lock. If it is happening well before this it is likely your u-joints. Prior to replacing my u-joints I couldn't turn but half lock in 4wd without this problem. If you had a little less traction in the snow you wouldn't feel it as much.
This is is exactly what I experienced last week in the snow. I felt it way before full lock in forward and reverse.
That is why I blindly decided to replace the u-joints.
I hope to finish the front u-joints today. I'll report back once I'm finished.
Thanks again everyone.
Post by: frotosride on February 11, 2016, 06:10:46 pm
Post by: BBM3 on February 11, 2016, 07:18:28 pm
I am concerned that my truck is a bucking Bronco (Go Broncos) even in deep snow at far less than full steering lock.
My plan to finish installing front axle u-joints today hit a snag when I realized I don't have any wheel bearing grease.
I'm not going to reinstall the rotors without repacking the bearings. Oops.
Post by: frotosride on February 12, 2016, 02:34:27 pm
I'm not going to reinstall the rotors without repacking the bearings. Oops.I would have to strongly agree with you on this. Not sure why but my gut says greasing wheel bearings is a great idea.
Post by: BBM3 on February 12, 2016, 04:14:31 pm
I would have to strongly agree with you on this. Not sure why but my gut says greasing wheel bearings is a great idea.
Thanks for the laugh!
For the record I am temporarily reusing the existing bearings just wanted to squeeze the old grease out and repack with new.
Post by: roundhouse on February 12, 2016, 09:34:57 pm
if the old ones are in good condition. Reusing them is fineI would have to strongly agree with you on this. Not sure why but my gut says greasing wheel bearings is a great idea.
Thanks for the laugh!
For the record I am temporarily reusing the existing bearings just wanted to squeeze the old grease out and repack with new.
They are much better quality that new ones Almost all of which are now made in China
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Post by: enaberif on February 12, 2016, 09:48:19 pm
if the old ones are in good condition. Reusing them is fineI would have to strongly agree with you on this. Not sure why but my gut says greasing wheel bearings is a great idea.
Thanks for the laugh!
For the record I am temporarily reusing the existing bearings just wanted to squeeze the old grease out and repack with new.
They are much better quality that new ones Almost all of which are now made in China
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Just get some Timkens... Even if made in China still one of the better quality better brands.
Post by: Irish_Alley on February 12, 2016, 09:51:33 pm
Post by: BBM3 on February 13, 2016, 03:39:28 pm
I always clean the bearings really good to new then check for flat spots or pits and make sure they can spin freely by hand and then repack
The rollers on LH outer are less than perfect so I am going to replace all of the bearings along with seals and slingers after I test drive it with the new u-joints.
Speaking of front axle u-joints....
My little press did not have the guts to press the RH u-joint out so a gave up and took the axle to a local shop to have the old u-joint removed and replaced with the new one I provided them.
My Son picked the axle up last night and when I inspected it I found they forgot to install the new "C" clips.
So I am dead in the water until they open again Monday morning.
I could fire up my TIG welder and tack the bearing caps to the yokes as hardcore off roaders do. Not sure yet.
This is why I prefer doing my own work and I am not suggesting that I don't make mistakes.
I make plenty of mistakes however when I do the only cost is to my ego.
Post by: Captain Swampy on February 16, 2016, 07:15:12 pm
Post by: BBM3 on February 17, 2016, 01:54:16 pm
If they are installed, couldn't you put the clips in?
The clips were left with the shop.
No matter I have it all back together and the new u-joints did the trick.
Post by: BBM3 on February 17, 2016, 02:03:47 pm
Not only are the holes of the weights elongated but the pins are almost completely worn through.
The vacuum advance is seized too.
I'll bet my truck will run much better and make more power with working mechanical and vacuum advance.
(http://bnkk.net/k10/dizzy.jpg)
Post by: LTZ C20 on February 17, 2016, 02:53:10 pm
I think I need a new distributer.Yea that's just un-christian right there. Take it out back, shoot it, put it out of its misery, bury it. Then go to the dealer and get a brand new one, shouldn't be more than $150 bucks for a Delco unit. Your truck is HEI right or is it still a points system?
Not only are the holes of the weights elongated but the pins are almost completely worn through.
The vacuum advance is seized too.
I'll bet my truck will run much better and make more power with working mechanical and vacuum advance.
(http://bnkk.net/k10/dizzy.jpg)
Unless you want to keep it all original and then a thorough rebuild and recondition is in order.
Post by: BBM3 on February 17, 2016, 03:42:51 pm
I just got back from the parts store with a new one. Not a Delco but with stacked discounts it was $100 including cap, coil, rotor, and gasket.
It'll do.
Post by: BBM3 on February 17, 2016, 05:43:14 pm
Along with improved performance I expect a noticeable improvement in fuel economy.
I feel like a dweeb now that I realize I have been driving this truck with nothing more than fixed initial timing.
Post by: LTZ C20 on February 17, 2016, 09:01:17 pm
Yep it is HEI.Good enough I guess.
I just got back from the parts store with a new one. Not a Delco but with stacked discounts it was $100 including cap, coil, rotor, and gasket.
It'll do.
Post by: BBM3 on February 17, 2016, 09:28:00 pm
Good enough I guess.
I think I know your stance on genuine GM parts and I tend to agree even when the GM logo is followed by Made in Taiwan
Post by: ROARING 455 on February 18, 2016, 07:59:05 pm
Post by: LTZ C20 on February 18, 2016, 10:42:35 pm
For the most part I am an OEM parts kinda guy, but it depends on what for. Engine control parts like, spark plugs, electrical sensors, a distributor, injectors, transmission parts for the most part, nothing is better than factory. However trusted names in reliability I'm ok with. For ex. my block is GM, the cam is a Comp, the heads are Dart, intake is Edelbrock. But brake parts, u joints, bushings for various body and suspension pieces, I go either what I know is proven and I trust.
Good enough I guess.
I think I know your stance on genuine GM parts and I tend to agree even when the GM logo is followed by Made in Taiwan
That being said, I just dropped 800 bucks on all new GM front end suspension and steering components.
Post by: BBM3 on February 19, 2016, 04:43:39 pm
That's a real nice Chevy u got there! 8)
Your truck is coming along nicely. Some day I may do a proper restoration like you are doing.
For the most part I am an OEM parts kinda guy, but it depends on what for. Engine control parts like, spark plugs, electrical sensors, a distributor, injectors, transmission parts for the most part, nothing is better than factory. However trusted names in reliability I'm ok with. For ex. my block is GM, the cam is a Comp, the heads are Dart, intake is Edelbrock. But brake parts, u joints, bushings for various body and suspension pieces, I go either what I know is proven and I trust.
That being said, I just dropped 800 bucks on all new GM front end suspension and steering components.
Wow $800. Your parts list must be long.
I doubt I have $800 in my front suspension and steering.
I have replaced everything from the rag joint forward except wheel bearings, seals, and ball joints.
And I am with you. On our daily drivers I prefer OEM parts.
My truck is never going to be a daily driver; maybe a couple thousand miles a year. The final drive ratio in my truck makes it miserable to drive for more than short bursts at or above 60 MPH.
Many times when I hit 45 MPH+ muscle memory tries to upshift into the nonexistent 5th gear.
Post by: Greybeard on February 19, 2016, 06:29:04 pm
Post by: BBM3 on February 19, 2016, 08:52:20 pm
Out of curiosity, what RPM's does it turn at 60?
According to my cheap tachometer about 3300 RPM @ 60 MPH
Feels and sounds like 4000+ RPM.
Post by: LTZ C20 on February 19, 2016, 10:04:31 pm
Upper and lower A-arms for both sides, heavy duty coil springs, tie Rod ends, adjuster sleeves. That's all the GM stuff from work that I can get.That's a real nice Chevy u got there! 8)
Your truck is coming along nicely. Some day I may do a proper restoration like you are doing.For the most part I am an OEM parts kinda guy, but it depends on what for. Engine control parts like, spark plugs, electrical sensors, a distributor, injectors, transmission parts for the most part, nothing is better than factory. However trusted names in reliability I'm ok with. For ex. my block is GM, the cam is a Comp, the heads are Dart, intake is Edelbrock. But brake parts, u joints, bushings for various body and suspension pieces, I go either what I know is proven and I trust.
That being said, I just dropped 800 bucks on all new GM front end suspension and steering components.
Wow $800. Your parts list must be long.
I doubt I have $800 in my front suspension and steering.
I have replaced everything from the rag joint forward except wheel bearings, seals, and ball joints.
And I am with you. On our daily drivers I prefer OEM parts.
My truck is never going to be a daily driver; maybe a couple thousand miles a year. The final drive ratio in my truck makes it miserable to drive for more than short bursts at or above 60 MPH.
Many times when I hit 45 MPH+ muscle memory tries to upshift into the nonexistent 5th gear.
What I can't get from work I'm going aftermarket, (and by aftermarket I mean the best replacement for factory that I'm satisfied with) bump stops, A-arm hardware, sway bar mounts and hardware. That will be 150-200 bucks.
Then when the front is done, the rear is getting the springs either re-arced or replaced based on the spring shops inspection and cost comparison along with new bushings and hardware. That will be in 500-600 dollar range all in total.
Then it's on to brakes. Fronts completely rebuilt, new calipers, new rotors, new pads, new hoses, new bearings and new wheel studs. Probably at least $200 bucks there. Then the rear is getting a rear disc brake conversion kit for a 14 bolt FF axle and new wheels studs here also. The conversion kit has everything needed in it and that kit is about $500.
I'm just making my way around to the suspension/steering and brakes part. Since I bought it nothing but the front pads have been changed and everything has been reliable and served me very well. Now it's time to go out with the old and in with new.
And I'm considering converting from HD vacuum assist brakes to HD hydraboost brakes. Simply because well, you can compress air but you can't compress liquid. Plus hydraboost is better for stopping power in HD trucks when towing and hauling.
Post by: Greybeard on February 22, 2016, 12:10:30 am
Out of curiosity, what RPM's does it turn at 60?
According to my cheap tachometer about 3300 RPM @ 60 MPH
Feels and sounds like 4000+ RPM.
I bet that does sound like it's screaming. I ran 4:10's with sidewall sized 39-15/15's and ran right at 2200rpm's at 55. Since I had no speedo knowing my rpms at XXmph helped, just not enough, still got a ton of speeding tickets; I had to move to Colorado so I wouldn't lose my license. It seems odd they would put 4:10's in a short bed truck with a granny low 4-speed and small block from the factory, but they did. Mostly the same drive train setup was found behind the straight six's. At least in my experience that's what I've seen.
Post by: BBM3 on February 22, 2016, 05:02:07 pm
I bet that does sound like it's screaming. I ran 4:10's with sidewall sized 39-15/15's and ran right at 2200rpm's at 55. Since I had no speedo knowing my rpms at XXmph helped, just not enough, still got a ton of speeding tickets; I had to move to Colorado so I wouldn't lose my license. It seems odd they would put 4:10's in a short bed truck with a granny low 4-speed and small block from the factory, but they did. Mostly the same drive train setup was found behind the straight six's. At least in my experience that's what I've seen.
Mine has 3:73 gears in a short bed with an SM465
Where are you in Colorado?
I'm in Black Forest / North Colorado Springs
Post by: Greybeard on February 22, 2016, 06:19:45 pm
I now live on my farm in Iowa. No neighbors, no noise, very little light pollution, no people driving by (I get maybe three vehicles on a busy day), it ain't the mountains though. I miss them so bad I can taste em. My route to here from a kid...born Missouri, lived in Georgia, Florida, Texas, and Louisiana before my 22nd birthday. Then back to home in Mo, then off to Yellowstone park for a couple years, then up to Big Sky Ski Resort, over to Seattle for a year, then up to North Dakota to work on a pipeline, then back to Mo to work as an inspector for a munitions company, then off to Colorado to do asphalt work with those two. Then I ended up here to hold the same job for 23 years as a crane and heavy equipment operator/forman. Now I am in school and drive school bus part time. maybe once I grow up I'll decide what I want to do for a living, but until then I'm thinking of moving to Nebraska just for giggles.